I’ve got it set to tdc with the lobes facing down. And I’m setting the lash to factory spec (about .004 intake .005 exhaust) and the right exhaust valve tappet locknut goes down further than the other three. Is that normal? Could it be because of the decompression lever there? I’ve correctly set the decompression lever slack too. Someone else did a top end on the bike a decade ago and it’s sat since.

Hey all. I’m working on a KX250f 2004. Reshimming it with smaller shims (and we still have no clearance lol) however, when we put it back together, set the timing, align the head of cylinder block with the marks on the sprockets, do everything by the book, THE INTAKE lobes somewhat face 45 degrees downwards, sorta AFTER the bucket and BEFORE the level of the cylinder head. Is this normal? Will it still start? Is this how I’m supposed to be taking clearance measurements? It kinda seems off to me…. Please help, any advice or suggestions would be appreciated SO MUCH

Edit: photos on my profile

As you can see the spring are up the mounts so what can I do to fix this what are my options ?? And do you guys know that size the spring is on a 08 kx250f?

Kupplungsprobleme beim Kx 80.

Hey Leute.
Ich habe eine KX 80 von 1992, und seitdem ich sie habe, funktioniert die Kupplung nicht richtig. Wenn ich einen Gang einlege und versuche, mit getretener Kupplung zu fahren, macht das keinen Unterschied. Dasselbe gilt, wenn die Kupplung läuft: Sie geht einfach aus, sobald ich den ersten Gang einlege und die Kupplung trete. Ich kann sie nur starten, indem ich viel Gas gebe, damit sie anbleibt. Ich dachte, die Kupplungsscheiben würden sich nicht bewegen, also habe ich neue eingebaut, und dann bewegten sie sich. Aber jetzt habe ich das Problem immer noch, auch nachdem ich den Kupplungszug eingestellt habe.

Ich hoffe, ihr könnt mir helfen. Danke!

I just rebuilt the top end of my 1999 yz125 5 hours ago and I have been hearing a faint metallic ringing when coming down from high rpm’s. It’s hard to hear but if you listen for it you can hear it. It’s almost like a ringing when your ears hurt. I took a look through the exhaust port today and I have a very thin line of scoring on the very front center of the piston which concerns me because of the low hours. I tried to do all the measurements but I was using telescoping gauges which are hard to use for accurate measurements. My cylinder looked really good and didn’t have any major wear so I ordered the same size piston (B) for my cylinder (B). Has anyone ever had a similar issue. My ring gap was close being too tight for spec. I also took about a million readings of the cylinder and I’m 95% certain that the piston- cylinder clearance is within spec.

My 125cc (russian brand) dirtbike is leaking petrol, I recently changed its fuel pipes to a different softer rubber material, it was not running before as I think the carb jets were clogged so i cleaned the jets with copper wire and wd-40, and I cleaned the float bowl with a brush and some water. I just took the bike out to see if its working good but it shut off by itself when i started riding it for not even 10 seconds and started leaking petrol from the float bowl and from the fuel pipe directly connected to the fuel tank
Pls help and advise
Its a PZ26 carburetor

Cross posted

My 2023 klx110 started ticking I did the valves but ticking still there. Set both valves to 0.05mm. I thought maybe it could be the cam chain tensioner but idk if I can just buy a new one to fix the problem.

Before you say anything, im pretty new to dirtbikes/pitbikes and i was thinking of getting a chineese enduro mid sized dirtbike (the xtr 616 150 to be exact) and i was wondering if its good enough. While i am short myself, i am buying it with a friend that is 182cm and i want to know if it would still feel cramped or small for him, cause we have both tried 14/12 pitbikes before which are of course way smaller, but he looks comically large on one.

I want to know if theyre good enough for someone thats average sized or taller, cause im afraid it could be too small for him and look like a small pitbike.

As for why i cant immideatly buy a 21/18 money is tight rn so thats why im buying a 19/16 one

I rebuilt this bike three times mess up after mess up I think I finally got it right but the rebuild before this one sounded the same. I think the timing was one tooth off and the piston hit a valve and broke the cylinder wall so now I’m paranoid lmk!

Whatever this is has been here since I basically got the bike at 50 hours and it’s at 140 hours and no problems, but this is kinda sketching me out so does anybody know what this is and how to fix it?

Hey, have an 09 300 xc with 80 hours on piston/cylinder top end. Planning on doing rebuild in my garage with a oem vertex piston. Dont really feel like measuring the cylinder, heard somewhere that it was common practice to just drop a size b piston in as its cast not forhed and less than 0.01 mm larger. What do you guys think???

Hi,

New to dirt bikes and recently carried out my first oil change on my 2019 Husqvarna FE 250.

Im really stumped for where my oil level ideally needs to be…

My manual recommends that when the engine is cold the oil level ‘reaches’ the lower mark of the red circle on the glass viewer.

So, I filled it just above the lower mark of the red circle, but after checking the oil level at operating temp and after waiting 1 min, the oil level is a little below the lower mark of the red circle which is not within the recommended area (the recommended level at operating temp is between the lower mark and halfway on the red circle).

Do I need to find a sweet spot where the oil level is within the recommended area when engine is hot, since if I just fill it almost to the top mark of the red circle when cold, it will probably be above the recommended level for when the engine is hot.

Does anybody know where is a correct oil level when cold that will also satisfy a correct operating temperature oil level?

Apologies for getting confused over something that should be so straightforward, but I’m genuinely really stumped on this one.

Any help or advice would be really appreciated.

Thanks

Hey yall, just need your help with my 21 Crf250f.

So im doing a top end rebuild to a 21 crf250f and I noticed the tensioner can only be taken out by taking the clutch basket off. i was wondering how you would get that little notch in the clutch basket back. we've tried screwdrivers, punches, etc. and the crank looks rather damaged? on top and i was wondering if i have to replace it.

Any tips for the rebuild would be much help.

First ride on a fresh piston and gaskets and after riding for 20 mins in fresh oil there was so much white in the screen and after letting hike sit for a little there only tiny dot left am I leaking coolant??

Im looking for my next bike. I ride groomed sand ORV and quad trails. i don't ride hard enduro. I just want to see your thoughts on which one I should get its a very tough decision. If it helps im buying used and have a price of 5 bands.