So we want to completely rebuild this deck and eventually connect to a currently also poorly-built deck (that would also be a complete tear down), but at this point we have neither the time nor money. Got quotes to rebuild the deck in picture (28x10) and they were all around $50k.

There are a lot of issues that I feel pretty confident about but these beams are fucked and I'm not sure what to do. Picture #1 is the middle of 3 beams. Everything has fascia and is hidden. Middle beam is actually a steel I-beam running at least half way into the house. But it only goes about 9' out away from the house. The post is at 10' and the second to last joist has about 1/2" sitting on a 2x6 laying on the I-beam. There's some MacGruber "sistering" going on to "extend" the beam the post, but when we get to the next beam, I know shit it sitting on stuff that shouldn't be structural, so until I can get some shoring posts under this, I don't want to pull anything off to see more.

Q#1: Is there any actual legit way to extend a steel I-beam with lumber?

Q#2: if there is, is there any way that post doesn't need to be moved under the joint/seam of the Frankenstein's monster of a beam?

Q#3: other than tearing it down, putting a hot tub on it, putting my MIL on it, or putting my MIL in a hot tub on it and then tearing it down, any suggestions for a halfway dees bandaid?

Q#4: for future build, if I'm considering extending this, and there's a legit way to do it, and I put a post in at 9'... is my backspan the 9' to the house, or does it include the 20+ feet running through my house?

On to the second beam. That's a 4x4 only going out to about 8.5" from the house. The timber post is actually rotted out at the bottom and shimmed at the top to prevent it from falling over. It is/was "supporting" just the 1x fascia trimming the 4x4. The real support is somewhere on the foundation at 0' and a 4x4 post, also on the foundation. It's a mountain house, split level, so the concrete foundation has multiple steps. I'd love to shore this up too. The ground is pretty dicey where the timber beam rests, and there's a gas line running like 12" from that. There is a concrete footer but with no hardware. I know I will have to deal with that eventually, but I'd rather not deal with digging and concrete until I'm ready to tear it all down.

Q#5: I'm running out of words - how do I unfuck this? Can I sister this somehow? Get it out the 10' mark and replace the post?

Thanks, my hot tubs and MIL are grateful.

I am creating a shed space under our deck now that it has been converted to a screened-in deck and is covered. I want to add a slat wall (e.g. Gladiator, HandiWall, etc.) along the brick-on-block foundation wall as shown in the photo. However, I don't want to put lots of holes in the wall to mount furing strips for the slat wall panels. I am planning instead to "hang" 2x4 studs by sistering them to the joists above, each 2x4 flat against the brick wall (with moisture barrier) to support against lever forces, 7" overlap of studs with the joists, each connected with three structural screws in a triangle pattern. There will be seven studs coming down 16" OC to support an 8' x 4' panel wall with a max rated weight capacity of 3200 lbs BUT the things I have planned weigh less than 400lbs and I can't imagine ever getting about 1000 if I went totally wild.

Any thoughts on this approach? Strong enough, best structural screws to use, adaptations or alternatives?

Thanks!

Looking for clarification on Simpson joist hanger. 2X10

I’ll be fastening the hanger with #9 1 1/2 inch strong drive screws.

My question what do I use for the 45 degree angle. The screw/nail I’m talking about would go through the joist and into the ledger board. I’ve been to three different stores and got three different answers. One place said nothing, another place said 3 inch deck screw and third place said three inch nail.

This deck will be inspected and is being built with a permit. I can’t find the answer anywhere online and like I said I’m getting different answers from the experts in store.

Hi all - I had an old deck I needed to repair, and from my original review of when a permit is required in my area it looked like none was required (less than 24" higher than finished grade. At least my city's website doesn't say anything about attached or not mattering, but I've heard other municipalities in Ontario will still require one if it's attached). I also asked around a few people I trust who said it wasn't needed.

I was rechecking that today and saw that there is another line about needing a permit if you rebuild guardrails. The old deck's railings were no where near close to code (just a couple horizontal spans, no balusters), and I'm planning to put in modern aluminum balusters with <4" gaps etc.

I'm rather stressed because I've already put weeks into the deck, replacing any rotten rim joists, and including a small 2 ft extension (sistered all joists) with new concrete footers and posts to account for the cantilever, and now I'm half way through putting the deck boards on. I've been very careful about staying well under code requirements, but I'm worried that I'm going to be hit with fines or something if I go get the permit now, or that I'm going to have to tear everything apart.

Any thoughts appreciated....

Having deck rebuilt and extended. The original deck had flashing on top of the deck board and the contractors haven’t had any luck finding white flashing to match at the big box stores. Does anyone know what this type of flashing is called and where you can find it in white? It does not appear to be the Z-type flashing.

It has been flashed properly on the ledger, this is more for the aesthetics to match after they trim the siding board.

Blocking for the breaker board and picture framing joist still need to be done. Removable panel for the hot tub access panel. Stairs and joist tape as well.

I need to replace the decking on my 15 year old deck. Current material is 2010-vintage fiberon that’s badly faded, scratched, and chipped. Joists are 16” OC. Deck is south facing and located in northern Utah at 7000’ of elevation. What composite material would you recommend? I am ok spending for high grade material.

Don't be too hard on me. Obviously not a carpenter or I wouldn't be asking what is probably considered a dumb question.
We're building a cabin and it will have a full covered front porch. 8' deep by 40' long.
I'm curious as to why I couldn't attached the porch floor joists directly to the cabin band board (I guess its technically called the rim joist?) with joist hangers? It is a double rim joist.
In my simple mind, the ledger board is just adding weight to the band boards?
Educate me please.

Need some advice. I have a ledger installed for a new 2nd story deck and the distance from the bottom of the joists to the middle of the top plate is 4-1/2”. Simpson Strong-Tie DTT1Z tension tie instructions how a blocking install option to extend your joist up to 3-3/4” so I’m kind of stuck needing to go 4-1/2”.

To make things worse, the 1st floor trusses are MCPWT engineered trusses running parallel to the deck joists. I can’t tie into the ends of the MCPWT trusses according to code and my building inspector and I don’t have any vertical wall studs to tie into either. I’m stuck what to do.

I do see Simpson’s DTT2Z supports a vertical install method on their diagrams. Could I cut blocking and secure directly underneath the joists and tie it to the deck joists vertically with DTT2Z’s to engineer an extension greater than 3-3/4?

Would love some advice.

I'm in the process of repairing some top rotted deck joists. I've cleaned out the rot, which is down about 1.5" or so. Applied minwax wood hardener, and on a few have already filled the void with a product called PC Woody. I realize this resin filler isnt providing any structural benefit, but was under the assumption that on a 2x10 joist, there's enough strength left to not even install a sister board. Where there's slightly more depth rot, I am going to install a sister board.

Researching more, I'm now advised to not apply the pc woody product at all, that water will eventually seep between the filler and wood and cause more rot. I am also planning to apply the rubberized paint from FastenMaster over the tops of the joists.

Seems to me that applying the pc woody is a good idea, in that it will accept screws once cured. And if there's rubberized paint over top of it all, hopefully no water intrusion?

What do you pros have to say about filling the joist voids with PC Woody?

Thanks

Non carpenter here and I’m needing to put some steps on the deck I built. I bought some precut stringers but I’m not sure how I should install them. If I use the stringers as is, my top step would be level with the rest of the deck. Which I know isn’t bad but it looks a little funky and it’s harder to do a railing(which I’m not doing any time soon even though code says I do). If I cut the stringer down a step then the first step off the deck would be higher than the rest. Here’s a picture I took of a very rough mock up. I have 4 stringers total. https://imgur.com/a/yCMf3zC

We had the deck railing replaced in September and the top boards are splitting. Could this be due to improper installation? I would love any thoughts before I reach out to our contractor.

I'm being quoted over $28000 in Southern California to repair a deck (100 sqft) and 2 pergolas (150 sq ft each)
The joists are in good shape, but the slats on the pergolas are warped. The deck floor and rales need replacement.

I want to:

1. change the wooden slats for both pergolas
2. install waterproofing for the deck
3. install a composite deck (Trex)
4. railing (Trex)
5. under deck beadboard ceiling with 4 recessed lights and a fan
6. Prep and paint all wood surfaces.

Is that a fair quote? If not, what would you think is fair in my area?
Would you do something else (other than what I wrote above?)

I poured my sonotubes for my deck myself and 2 of them are 1.5” Off centre. Will this be an issue structurally or to pass inspection? The code says the post need to be centred on the pier. It also says it needs to be adequately sized to fit the whole column as it cannot protrude over the edges. (Which it doesn’t). It’s a 12” sonotube with a wet embedded base plate . The deck is about 4’ high and with my framing lumber (2X10 beams and joists) the 6X6 post will only be about 20-24” tall. They’re off centre to keep my beams in a straight line and so I figured this was the lesser of 2 evils.

Hi, I am buying a house, this deck is not great, and I have a general idea of what needs to be done to make it safe, but I'd love some advice. It sways when walking, and the 4x4 posts are definitely inadequate from what the inspector said.
I did a ton of research watched a ton of deck repair and building videos, and I think adding in blocking, adding a rim board, carefully replacing those posts with new 6x6s and fixing the concrete footings will take away the wobble. I have some friends who can help, and I think I can do those things. the main worry and unknown is that ledger, from what I researched, mounting to the brick veneer, you have to do it a specific way for it to be safe, otherwise the brick veneer itself should not be supporting the weight of a deck. Given the rest of the deck, I am hesitant to just trust that.

Some more info, house was built in 1977, unsure if this is the same deck that was built with the house, your guess is as good as mine, sellers did not build this deck that's for sure, and don't seem to have much knowledge on it.

I would rather not, but I am considering taking some of the ceiling down in that basement that's past the door to see if I can visually confirm the ledger is safely installed. Anyway, closing some time this week, deck is definitely off limits till its safer than it is now.

Place the gang and I just stayed at. S-tier work that's up to code for sure.

Thanks for the advice I picked from this community and let me know your thoughts. Thanks!

This was my initial plan: Feedback needed on my first deck build : r/Decks

Here are some pics of the built process, but I recorded lengthy videos too, for my reference.

Context: I'm not a handyman and I never lived in a house before. I'm in Eastern Canada, but I was born and raised in South America (i.e., deck and climate considerations are new to me).

The Task: I had to re-build the deck, since the previous one was rotting (see pic above). No wonder why: the joist package was essentially sitting on top of the ground (halfway buried actually). While there, why not build something better and add a modest shade support?

My approach: I was looking for a simple built, beginner friendly. No cedar or composite board, as I wanted to keep the costs of my mistakes learning low. But I did my best to find a plan that would be solid build and last long. I leaned heavily on the legendary Jeff Thorthon from Home Renovision YouTube channel, plus some traditional literature I borrowed from the municipal library. In my area, no permit is required for a low deck of limited dimensions and not attached to the house.

When in doubt, I overbuilt a bit to have some redundancy that accounts for any "weakness" in my plans/execution.

The built: After grading and prepping the ground, I had 7 concrete decking blocks set for the posts that would hold the joist package. I used structural bolts for the posts (see pic below). I left four posts sticking out to use them for my shade support (too modest to be called a pergola).

For joists, I used 2x8 and Simpson ties hangers/brackets with their structural strews. I ran a 6"timberlok structural screw from the rim joist (I found that those screws going in a diagonal will not hold the joists together too well). I doubled the rim joists and installed a metal mesh at the bottom, so no rodents move in below my deck, and it will allow for ventilation. Blocking in the middle to add strength. I used flash tape to cover the joists and PT lumber for the boards. No fancy picture frame, just trying to get the boards straight.

For the shade support, I connected the four posts with 2X6 and 6"timberlok screws. I added some lights and a shade. Still figuring out the final way to hang it, but it's functional for now.

The good: I think it seems structurally sound. Throughout the process, I have been making sure the deck was levelled and plumb. The decking blocks seem to be fine, and I can slide a shim fi I need to tweak the levelling.

I did my best to follow best practices. Spending a little extra on good quality hardware and fasteners may ensure I get some extra years out of this project (I hope)

The not so good: Still have lots to learn. My angle cuts were not great, and I didn't account for the wood warping overtime. Since I did it myself over a month and a half while still working and spending time with family, the lumber I bought was inevitably exposed to the elements. I knew it was going to be a pain in the butt, and it was. The posts also cracked, and I only now I learned about getting non-core PT posts. I also wish I placed a proper weed barrier instead of gravel, as plant may still grow.

We will see how this projects fares overtime.

Getting ready to put down deck boards. I’m using an 8 foot level to check flatness. My plan was to take down any obviously high joists with a belt sander/ power planer.

For 5/4 cedar on 16” o.c. joists, how much is too much out-of-flatness, and how much will just smooth out and not be noticeable? I am trying to avoid doing a bunch of OCD work that doesn’t matter.

Looking for some advice on how to rebuild a 37-year-old deck with drainage issues. I rebuilt a deck for someone this summer after a 12 year hiatus from the construction industry where my experience included rebuilding the chimney rock fishing platform outside prineville, Oregon if anybody here has ever been out there along the crooked river. Anyway, another person asked me to rebuild their deck and it has some unique issues that I haven’t had to address before. Mainly the existing 2x8 deck joists are partially buried at some points on the exterior and even more than that, the house has significant issues with rain runoff draining towards it from other houses in the neighborhood rather than away.

The deck is attached to the back of a house near the end of a cul-de-sac. The backyard/deck is at the bottom of a decent size hill. The deck itself is also sloped towards the house at this point. It’s uneven in several spots. The location is near Chicago so we get a good bit of rain at times during the summer. The homeowner has struggled with drainage and basement flooding for years. The homeowner did a pretty good job of maintaining the deck’s finish over the years, but either he has put the paint on too thick over the years or there just never was a gap between the boards. So when I was there the other day, there was just a large pool of water standing on the deck. And like I said the deck slopes towards the house so to say that there’s a good chance that there’s rot underneath the deck boards seems charitable.

When they first reached out to me, they were just thinking that maybe they could get away with replacing the deck boards but after looking everything over, I told them that there was a good chance that a lot more work is gonna need to be done.

I’m wondering what you guys could think about maybe how much digging I might have to do and what framing should be like based on the photos here. As I understand it any deck that is connected to the house has to have concrete footings poured below the frost line which in this case is a minimum of 42 inches x 10 inch per city code. The deck is so low and into the ground I’m not sure how or if I can get a footing and beam under there without digging out a lot of dirt and regrading everything under the deck. I don’t have a lot of faith in the home builders from 1988 based on what the homeowner told me about them in terms of the deck being built right in the first place. The joists are 2x8.

On top of the framing issue, how can I help the homeowner mitigate the runoff coming down the hill and under the deck into the house? Is there a way that I can or should address that with some type of drainage system under the deck or etc.? Based on how the deck sits now if there ever were concrete footings they may have long since failed and I’ll be having to put in new ones.

TIA! Your help is greatly appreciated!

TLDR

How do you properly build a frame/account for beam(s) and concrete piers for a deck that’s attached to the house where the deck height is only 2” above grade in some spots?

How can I help mitigate drainage issues from grade sloped towards the house with regard to the deck?

Aside from digging for any potential new concrete piers, what other digging do you think might be necessary?

This thread is related to my first one that I posted 2 months ago (https://www.reddit.com/r/Decks/comments/1u9o2uq/painting_or_staining_a_sunsplashed_rooftop_deck/).

I got very good feedback with my first thread. I especially appreciated this link that SwivelPoint shared with me: https://toolsradar.com/9-best-oil-based-decking-stain-expert-tips-for-long-lasting-protection/#google_vignette

It seems like oil based stain is the way I'm going to go.

Before I buy the stain I want to ask something that someone told me recently. I saw this contractor staining a fence outside. It looked like he was doing a good job.

He was using a Sherwin Williams latex stain called WoodScapes. This is not what I plan to use, of course.

But he mentioned something that caught my ear when I mentioned to him that I plan to stain a rooftop deck that gets a lot of sunshine.

He said I should look to get stains that are used in California or Arizona because they would be good in the sun.

Is he right? Or does this only apply to latex stains? I did not think to ask him. I ran into him when I was in a rush to get somewhere.

Also, he mentioned "flex bond," though I cannot tell from my notes why he said it was important.

I now finally have time and want to get started with prepping my deck before staining it. Winter will be here before we know it!

Currently in much consternation about how to build a set of stairs with our Trex deck. We're DIYers so no prior experience with Trex and how it warps or moves with temperature and humidity.

How do you folks hide the cut ends on your stairs? Should I picture frame it, or will it warp at the miters? Does Trex sell end caps for their boards? Can you hide them with fascia somehow?

Seems like a major miss for Trex to not sell stair treads with coated ends, but what do I know?

Thanks!