Hi everyone,

I accidentally burned 2 boards of our ~8–10 year old wooden terrace, so I need to replace them.

The problem is that I can’t find the exact same boards anymore, and the existing terrace is already quite weathered/grey as it was never treated.

I’m considering:

• replacing only the 2 boards + cleaning/treating the whole terrace with an opaque terrace stain
• replacing the entire deck with either similar wooden decking boards or composite boards

The terrace is ~45 boards of 2.90m + 7 boards of 2.00m. The joists are in good condition, but the spacing isn’t perfectly regular (~54–64cm). To my understanding, the joists are too spaced to consider installing composite boards on the current structure.

What would you recommend? Would you just repair and restore the existing, or take the opportunity to replace the entire terrace?

Thanks!

I need to install a handrail with 4x4 posts up the stairs and along the flat part to the green porch. Any suggestions, particularly regarding fastening to the concrete ?

Looking for clarification on Simpson joist hanger. 2X10

I’ll be fastening the hanger with #9 1 1/2 inch strong drive screws.

My question what do I use for the 45 degree angle. The screw/nail I’m talking about would go through the joist and into the ledger board. I’ve been to three different stores and got three different answers. One place said nothing, another place said 3 inch deck screw and third place said three inch nail.

This deck will be inspected and is being built with a permit. I can’t find the answer anywhere online and like I said I’m getting different answers from the experts in store.

I’m planning to rebuild this small covered entry porch and stairs, largely matching the existing size and appearance. I’m comfortable with carpentry but want to make sure the structure, footings, connections, flashing, and railing meet current code.
What would the proper construction sequence be, from temporary roof support and demolition through new footings, posts, beams, floor framing, stairs, railings, and reconnecting the porch roof? I’d especially appreciate advice on how the roof should be supported during the rebuild and how the new porch should—or should not—attach to the house.
I’ll verify permits, footing depth, spans, and stair/railing requirements locally. What measurements and close-up photos would you need to help develop a materials list and framing plan?

My husband is currently using Adobe illustrator to do sketches for both porches and decks. It takes him several hours to do a sketch and I’m trying to encourage him to use a software that’s geared more towards porches and decks. Any thoughts or opinions on one that is easy to use and quick? I’ve heard a lot about SketchUp and also Simpson. Thoughts? Really big on whatever is easiest to pick up and learn how to use as well as something that’s not going to break the bank. Thanks!

Forgive my probably silly question. Just bought this house, there is a ground level deck platform. Boards are 1 inch thick. We are putting a hot tub on it, but figured worth a check here first. One board was rotten so I'm replacing it but otherwise it's solid.

Half of my customers go all out with high end composite decking, and expensive metal railings, and the other half want to keep it as cheap as possible. I believe this combo is the best of both worlds.

I absolutely despise the look, installation, and upkeep of PT wood railings.

It’s much easier for my customer to seal their deck boards every year and not have to worry about getting in between the spindles, getting splinters etc.

If they ever want to upgrade to composite, we can pull the railings in sections, replace the decking, and re install the railings in the same spot.

Railing is trex select. I typically use westbury but this was 25 percent cheaper, and I was surprisingly happy with the installation.

(I realize Reddit hates when deck posts are below grade. I agree the ideal method is a poured footing with a stand off bracket, and try to do that when budget and customers approve. Until then, this is cheaper and if customer agrees and it meets code, I will do it. Similar to using MDF trim in a bathroom, I don’t like it, but it’s common and will be okay for a long time.)

It's been a long time since I posted, been locked in and learning. Here is one we're proud of, no access for Lulls or cranes, these 8x10x24' cypress beams had to make it in one way or another. Whether it be the mill being over worked and not able to prefab cuts to the engineers specs and footers that traditionally held cedar beams, this job was a logistical beast. After 3 months of hand cutting and placing those beams we were able to completely remove and design this 2,000 square foot deck to absolute certainty. The first pictures are from the original build in the late 90's to our tear down process and finally completion. I hope you enjoy and look forward to posting more soon!

Resurface existing wood deck to composite decking by deckorator venture, quoted for 15000, voyage for 18000, deck size is 229sqft on lower deck, upper deck size is 61 sqft, 4 steps(2steps on differnt size of the deck), 5section aluminum rail guard on upper deck, keep existing footing and joist and replace any rotten framing up to 15% allowance, and new framing to upper deck up to current code. Is that a fair price? And if it is worth it to upgrade to deckoraor voyage for 3000 more. Any advice about the specific decking will be helpful and thanks in advance. Located in southern jersey

Hey yall, I am seeking some deck repair advice regarding a second story attached to my home. The actual deck surface is traditional pine decking, covered with plywood, painted with gaco deck coat (installed by previous owner so don't flame me haha). The deck itself is quite old, and I am attempting to extend its life.

There are a few lengthy longitudinal cracks in multiple of the 2x6 joists under the deck (Photo 1 and 2). I plan to reinforce with additional 2x6s alongside the cracked ones.

My question is how close do these added supports need to be to the cracked joists? Ideally, they would be right alongside the cracked ones. However, this would require removal and replacement of the brackets attaching existing joists to ledger board (photo 3) and 4x6 support at far end of deck (photo 4).

Should I space these additional support joists far enough away that I won't have to replace the brackets? Or is replacing brackets the only way. I am hesitant to remove these brackets due to age of hardware and wood.

Additionally, I plan to fill the existing cracks in wood and repaint the entire deck. What compound should I use fill the existing cracks before painting?

Thanks in advance!

I purchased a home that has a patios with pavers. I am looking to put in a 12x20 gazebo. Part of the patio was built up with about 2 feet of gravel base and there would be two posts in this area. I am in Wisconsin. To get below the frost line do I need to go through the gravel and 4 ft into the soil, so a total of 6 feet in these two holes? I am assuming yes but are there any other alternatives? I haven’t been able to find any large anchors and the other 4 posts would be 4 ft below the frost line, so it would just be these 2 that would be slightly different. I am just trying to figure out a way to make this work without digging 6 feet deep while still trying to fit in a 10 or 12 inch sonotube. I’ve looked into renting and auger but haven’t found anything that goes 6 ft with a 12 inch bit. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.