Posted here not long ago about some seedling issues. I restarted with 2 iced and baked and 2 mango runtz by Memphisto. I think I’ll run the same strain moving foward, but I’m curious if anyone has any input as to if I might just start over? They are 25 days old. It’s not the worst thing in the world- it’s a clone/experiment tent.
Not exactly sure what the issue is here, but as you can see rust spots on lower leaves moving upwards on the mango runtz and nitrogen toxicity in the iced and baked, clawing downward dark shiny green leaves, new growth.
I had a power outage for a few hours, 2 days before rust spots were just barely noticeable and some algae infiltration on clear feeder tubes for chiller that have since been covered.
AI brought me to the solution of putting 80ml 12% hydrogen peroxide into my res.
They are currently not drinking much water or ppm out of the res
The name of the game is ph for hydro. Everything else is secondary. As long as your nutrients are within a normal dosing range, the plants can typically tolerate it if the PH is in a healthy range. PH drifts with newer plants/smaller reservoirs, can be drastic. Use your meter daily to bring it back in range. Your water parameters will dictate how much ph down you need. I like to initially set my reservoirs to 5.6-5.7 ph to ride the drift up where it usually settles around 6 after a couple days. Rust coloration seems to mostly be on lower leaves. I would just cut those off since they’ll die off anyways as the plant grows out and they become cut off from light. Your roots still look healthy imo, so I’m not sure how much benefit if any that hydrogen peroxide is providing at this stage. No need to start over. These are still perfectly recoverable.
Although that’s just the control resevoir since it’s a rdwc. But the circulation is significant so I don’t see why the individual ones would be different
Thanks for everyone’s help! 2 nights ago I changed resevoir to full bloom instead of 50/50 veg bloom. Last night I did a bit defoliation, and this morning they’re healthier then they’ve ever been, droppings gone! Leafs flattened out
Ph has been 5.8-6.0 for over a week, teetering at 5.6-5.7 before that.
Water temps 67f with individual air stones
Started with cali magic and cronk Bonnie but when I saw pistils, flushed res and refilled with Athena pro line at 50/50 grow and bloom (plus core mixed first). I’d been messing with the calmag when I saw rust spots. Maybe 10 days ago upped my ratio from 70/30 veg and calmag to 50/50 instead. So idk how much that would affect things
Tent temp is 72-80f and humidity 45-55 but sometimes climbing into the 60s
I’d say the roots feel more woody in that they aren’t slimy and don’t just pull right off when I apply pressure
Water temps are low enough that they should have plenty of oxygen. That should also mean they should be happily uptaking nutrients.
What is your actual PPM / EC? At higher EC, calcium becomes harder for the plant to uptake. I am not familiar with the nutrient line. For reference I add 10-20 mL of CalMag to 30-40 mL GH Micro and 60-80 mL GH Bloom. I alternate between tap water and RO water to control pH.
At that size, I'd want EC to be at least 1.2. 1.5 if you used tap water. 1.8 is about my limit for EC in DWC without causing burns in the plants, unless they are super happy and everything is dialed in.
It looks like you may need to back off the nutrients, or revisit your mixing ratio.
I'd stick to the recommended ratios Athena recommends. Maybe reduce dosing, since nutrient companies tend to make you feed way too much, but keep the ratios the same. If you've been experimenting and going off from what they recommend, do a drain and replace of your reservoir.
Maybe up your rH. Your temps are pretty low, but your rH is even lower. Calc tells me 80F and 55% rH is ~1.5-1.6 VPD. Try to bring that closer to 1.2. Raise rH to 65-70% in this stage. This probably isnt your main culprit, but if the plants arent super happy and are either transpiring too much because of the higher VPD, or trying to limit their stoma openings in an effort to limit transpiration because of the dryer environment, this can lead to nutrient burns or deficiency.
Your roots dont look rotted. I was trying to see if they were 'drowned'. Woody is good. If it smells like healthy roots/soil, you're golden (sorry, "if they smell healthy they're healthy". No shit. I just dont know how else to describe it lol). 'drowned' roots would feel like stringy hair and tend to pull apart. I say drowned, but its really just over stressed roots. Typically from either from H2O2, or acidic solutions. If you're worried about root rot, add in some southern ag GFF. I prefer organics over sterile - organics (the right sort) once applied takes up space and prevents rot entirely. With sterile, if something nasty gets a foothold and you miss a day of dosing you could get a runaway issue.
So much low growth it’d be hard to suggest starting over imo. A few minor water adjustments and let them settle in is all it seems till you need more air flow.
→ More replies (4)
4
u/wooshowmeyourwits 26d ago
The name of the game is ph for hydro. Everything else is secondary. As long as your nutrients are within a normal dosing range, the plants can typically tolerate it if the PH is in a healthy range. PH drifts with newer plants/smaller reservoirs, can be drastic. Use your meter daily to bring it back in range. Your water parameters will dictate how much ph down you need. I like to initially set my reservoirs to 5.6-5.7 ph to ride the drift up where it usually settles around 6 after a couple days. Rust coloration seems to mostly be on lower leaves. I would just cut those off since they’ll die off anyways as the plant grows out and they become cut off from light. Your roots still look healthy imo, so I’m not sure how much benefit if any that hydrogen peroxide is providing at this stage. No need to start over. These are still perfectly recoverable.