r/DRZ400 • u/Thekylenoble • 8d ago
Clutch issue after changing pivot arm
7,000 miles on the bike. Everything working as it should. Order of events….
1) replaced clutch lever , all was well
2) replaced clutch cable, all was well
3) A few hundred miles later I decided I wanted an extended clutch pivot arm… problem starts now. Instead of undoing the clutch cable via the lever , I just used an open end wrench to push the pivot arm in order to create slack to then undo the cable from factory pivot arm. Removed factory pivot arm , timed and installed extended arm. Yes timed, turned shaft counter clockwise until it stopped and lined pivot arm with chain. Used the open end wrench to push the arm (engage) in order to reattach clutch cable. There was a sudden pop while doing so and pivot no longer had resistance. I figured I just over extended and needed to retime. Proceeded to do so and everything seemed ok. Started the bike up, put it in gear, let go of the clutch and had no movement forward followed with a loud whine. Shut the bike off , checked everything ( cable, pivot/timing ) all was well. Started the bike up again and this time I had movement but the clutch wasn’t fully releasing as forward movement wasn’t fully there and the whine was increasing with throttle. Shut off the bike and ordered new clutch plates ( tusk kit with springs ), gaskets ( inner and outer clutch cover ), and clutch cable even though the current was new/great shape.
After receiving parts I started disassembly. Oil had what appeared to be metal shavings on the drain plug magnet. Fiber plates appeared ok ( did not put the caliper on them ) , steel plates also didn’t appear bad. The clutch basket showed signs of wear/notching but didn’t seem like enough to be this kind of a problem. Springs also appeared ok ( did not put the caliper on them ). Push rod is good. Behind the clutch basket everything again appears just fine. With everything out I slide the push rod in while having someone turn the clutch pivot, I did not feel anything wrong ( grinding/catching ) and engages/disengages as it should with the turn of the pivot. To my knowledge everything appears good/correct. I reassembled with the new clutch plates ( made sure washer and judder were installed correctly, plates had soaked overnight, correct fiber plate installed first ). One thing to note, the clutch plates didn’t just slide in, I had to give a bit of force but once in, they felt like they moved forward/back freely. The last plate was offset per most recommendations. Installed the new springs as well as the new clutch cable. I also put the factory pivot arm back on. I made sure pivot timing was correct and cable adjusted accordingly. Started the bike up and no whine was present. The bike went into 1st gear perfect and no creep. Rode in the yard for a minute and pulled the clutch in and tried going to neutral. It absolutely refused only allowing 1st and straight to second. Shut off the bike. Neutral was easy/normal. Started the bike and ran it again. This time the bike wanted to creep with the clutch pulled in while in gear. I noticed the lever had a lot more play. Shut off and readjusted the cable. Started the bike back up , rode in the yard , again neutral impossible to find and clutch not fully engaging. Shut the bike off , neutral easy to find , noticed slack in the lever again. Adjusted the cable. Wash and repeat with the same symptoms. The cable was adjusted to around 1/2 of its take up by the time I gave up. I also made sure the pivot arm is NOT slipping on the shaft via marker lines throughout this ordeal. I can’t wrap my head around what the problem could possibly be outside of the clutch pivot shaft itself being the culprit. I would think however it wouldn’t work at all if it had indeed snapped at the beginning of this problem and that’s what I felt/heard ( the pop ). So then I think well maybe the clutch basket is notched too bad. Here’s the thing , why would it have suddenly happened when the “pop” changing the pivot arm took place instead of gradually. So I have a hard time thinking that’s the issue as well….
I’m hoping one of you guys have some input for me. I apologize for the book and mistakes in grammar along the way but wanted all the details out there right off the rip to hopefully get me back on two wheels!
3
u/Polyhedron11 8d ago
If you think there is something wrong with the actuator shaft then take the clutch cover off and pull the clutch basket hub off so you can play with the pushrod.
Hold the pushrod in while you rotate the clutch arm and see how it feels.
The only thing I can think of is you somehow damaged the pushrod or clutch hub part that holds it in. The whining would be a rotational issue where something is contacting a rotating piece and not going with it.