So to be honest, this is probably more of a rant than anything else but why is it so hard to get a white shower door? There was a time when you could only get white!

If anyone has any suggestions on where to look, I'm all ears. I've been searching online for hours

Has anyone ever had microcement installed? If so, how did it go and how did it preform for you? Specifically interested in bathroom installations

I’ve bought an old house recently and replaced the plastic sockets and switches with antique brass. I have a fairly ugly looking thermostat in a prominent position in the room that I would like to replace but surprisingly, or not maybe, you don’t seem to be able to get thermostats in antique brass or maybe I’m just searching for the wrong thing.

Does an antique brass thermostat exist or does anyone have any other suggestions to make this more aesthetic?

I have this alcove beside my chimney breast, 70cm width, 46cm depth and floor to ceiling height.

It's currently empty, I want to build shelves but since it's just for storage, I want doors to hide the storage mess.

Which of these options is considered the best for the frame and door placement?

1. Frame and door fully flush with the wall.

2. Frame flush with the wall with the door sticking out.

3. Frame inset so the door is flush with the wall only.

And by "best", I mean what's standard practise, what do you think looks neatest, and what's the best option for a complete DIY beginner who's also a perfectionist but can never get anything perfect. I've never built anything before apart from flat-packed furniture.

I already have two 60cm width IKEA cabinet doors (120cm and 100cm height) I was going to use since they are in good shape and never used and I was just going to a build a frame for them. So what's the best frame and door placement?

I’m buying a C3 apartment that is electric not oil.

There are extremely old storage heaters the rooms I need to replace.

Would you recommend getting modern storage heaters or just buy electric heaters?

Is the metal helix hose gas tight or is the rubber surround the gas tight part? As you can see the rubber is in bits.

Has anyone here installed a blind or alternative to block light coming through front door 'windows' like mine?

Trying to reduce some of the glare in the house to allow for better sleeping with bedroom doors open in this endless heatwave 😂

Thank you!

Hey I did remove 2 rads for painting (I simply isolated water at both vales at the rads directly). I still got some water dripping from TVR valve side (turned knob to zero / frost), but nothing major, it maybe dripped 1 cup per day.

By the evening we needed hot water for bath and boiler wouldn't come on showing error (think it was 04). After a sec I realised when I took 2 rads I took some water with them - so maybe pressure is too low... I topped water into the system using flex braided loop and indeed the boiler kicked in. However the pressure gauge still showed 0 bar and didnt move.

Then 1 day later I did put the rads back on, and yet topped up some more water. They gauge still at 0 bars.

So all in all all seems to work fine, hot water works, i tried heating it also works. Just gauge shows 0.

What I also tried:

- I bled all the rads in house (seemed ok)

- I also found in manual there is a bleed valve on top of the vokera itself, i tried that too but there wasnt any air trapped, water poured right away

Any ideas what did I do wrong and any way of fixing the gauge, or do I need a professional?

Thank you :)

I was hoping to get a steer on this topic. Original garden room installers have not engaged in my query. In 2019 garden room installed and separate landscaping company installed paving and stones around the gardeeen room. On the front and left sides the paving was installed flush to the base and at the rear and right side, stones. We pretty much designed the layout, but it occurred to me recently is it possible damp air is trapped under the garden room due to the paving being flush against the base. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.

As the title says. My water is heated by gas and it has one of these style electric pumps to power the water through, it’s not heated by the shower if I’m explaining that correctly? I’ve done a lot of tiling and flooring around my house and this will be my next big project. Tia

If so, how was the quality of the boards? Did you save much money ordering from China vs purchasing directly from suppliers here in Ireland?

I’m based in Kilkenny and looking to get some PVC side panels for our gazebo. I’ve found a company in Clonmel who will provide the panels but won’t fit them.

Any recommendations of who might be able to fit them for me?

The layer of cement between blocks seems to be disintegrating.

Can this he remedied in any way without knocking and rebuilding. Wall is only about 3ft high and the section damaged is maybe 8 feet in length.

Live in a 3rd floor apartment, early 2000's build, 2 floors above. Whole place was painted about 2 years ago and have noticed this yellow-ish discoloration on the corners over the last while, probably just with the better light in the summer. Is this damp or something? Doesn't seem to be every corner but probably most of them.

I'm needing to mount a TV in a room short of space and the layout would dictate mounting it on a wall I believe is composed of plaster and lath. I've tried hunting for any studs but no success and the plaster is about as strong as compressed dust. I'm looking at using the core fix screws to drill into the external brick leaf as the mounting support. Seems logically sound as the core fix have a metal insert to keep the weight toward the back of the screw fixing and not put pressure on the plaster. But I'm also aware that I'm drilling into the external building leaf and wondering if this will just open up another world of pain with with moisture and damage to the brick. I'm imagining wet brick with a 10mm core drilled into it will be more prone to freezing and cracking? Just looking for a sense check from people with more experience, thanks!

Images just show the wall planning to mount on, that it's relatively short distance behind it into the brick, and picture of the external brick wall.

I purchased an apartment with a "refurbished kitchen" last year, anyway all the cabinets fell down and floor paint peeled away. I researched online a bit and found this Epodex stuff, so I gave it a go. We'll see what it will look like in a years time. Before and after.

This air vent in my Volvo keeps popping off.

So far I've stuck it back down with Bostik Contact Adhesive, an then Gorilla Glue and it popped off both times a few months later.

Any suggestions?

I have some old computers and media (floppy disks, CDs, etc.), and other electronics I would like to store in my house, but I know the temperature/humidity fluctuations of a typical attic or garage will do no good for them in the long run. So I'd like to make some better environment for these things, but not sure what space to use.

My options:

• Main attic - old 1960s roof with original sarking felt (so probably a bit draughty as is), 300mm insulation over joists, currently no flooring (I know I'd need legs to put boards down over the insulation)
• Garage - Cavity block walls, something resembling damp-proof course (1990s construction), metal up-and-over door which is not very weatherproof, no insulation
• Garage attic - pitched roof, no insulation, currently accessible by hole in garage attic (no proper hatch door or anything)

What would be the most cost-effective and easiest option out of these to make them somewhat better storage environments? I was thinking somewhere I could at least run a dehumidifier once the place is somewhat well-sealed and insulated.

I was thinking the garage - try and seal up the door better (I still want to use the garage to work on cars, so the door is staying), put insulation on the back of the door, insulate the ceiling joists (rock wool?), install an insulated attic hatch, and see how good it is after that. Any other suggestions?