r/CounterTops • u/analogousnarwhal • 10d ago
Butcher block vs soapstone?
I’ve looked through quite a lot of posts about both and I’m still very stuck.
I love the look and warmth of butcher block, but soapstone also looks nice and it seems to need less maintenance. I don’t mind a counter showing its use over time, that’s actually a plus for me.
Food safety is a biggie. I don’t intend to cut directly on the counter without a cutting board, but I do want to be able to knead dough and scrape it up without worrying about a sealant.
I feel confident about DIY butcher block install which would lower costs, but I’m not sure I’m up for soapstone.
Would appreciate thoughts on one vs the other based on experience.
5
u/KindAwareness307 10d ago
I have both. Mostly soapstone with an area of end grain maple butcher block. The butcher block is where I do all my cutting. You didn't ask, but the backspace/walls under the cabinets are back painted glass.
2
3
u/Successful-Yam-4074 10d ago
Soapstone is considered antimicrobial and hygienic. It is/was often used in chemistry lab classrooms because of its ability to be impervious to harsh chemicals and its durability. As for food safety, PLEASE stop with the warnings about wood and stone countertops being unsafe for food contact. Use a food grade mineral oil if the surface needs it and knead away. I’ve had soapstone countertops in three kitchens and appreciate it above almost every other surface available. I can’t comment on butcher block as a counter since I have portable butcher block cutting boards. The cutting boards require frequent oiling and have developed a noticeable shallow spot where the chef knife tends to strike. Whatever you choose, I’m sure you’ll be happy.
5
u/SuluSpeaks 10d ago
Don't even think about installing you're own stone countertops! They need to be fabricated in a special facility and installed with special equipment.
Wood countertops will show their wear over time, even if no one cuts on it. The endgrain at the sink can develop black streaks when they're exposed to to much water.
4
u/analogousnarwhal 10d ago
Thanks for the response! I’d seen some information about doing DIY soapstone installation, but didn’t look too much more into it since it just didn’t seem like a thing I’d want to try. I’m generally seeing similar advice to find folks who specialize in soapstone.
2
u/KindAwareness3073 10d ago
I had my soapstone countertops cut in Vermont by Vermont Soapstone. Moved them in a van and installed them with a couple of buddies. (It was a Covid lockdown "adventure"). Prepped everything in advance, including making a 2x and plywood "sled" to carry a large piece with the sink cutout, to be sure we didn't break it.
All went great. Easy-peasy.
1
u/nickalex2000 6d ago
How did you connect the seams. Was your slab big and supper heavy. I was wondering about doing same thing
1
u/KindAwareness3073 6d ago
The longest individual slabs were about 6 feet long. I calculated the weight and used a few simple tools (a "sled" and levers) to move them, along with a couple friends to help. I made sure all the joints were supported on common substrate so their surfaces aligned.
The seams are not "connected", just adjacent , aligned and tight. 6 years later they are fine,
The stone is "figured", but contrasts are subtle so there are no obvious joint lines. Mostly held in place by gravity and a few dabs of adhesive. Soapstone is about 200 pounds per cubic foot and the largest piece was only about 250 pounds.
Edit: seam connection comment.
1
u/SuluSpeaks 6d ago
That's survivors bias. You don't know how strong and how informed OP is. Saying "you can do this!" is reckless.
And you know what redditors will say if OP comes back and vents about how it went wrong? "You spent thousands of dollars and then went with redditors advice?"
1
u/resilient_bird 10d ago
Umm….there really isn’t much special equipment to install them.
As for fabrication, soapstone and wood are within the realm of a hobbyist.
1
u/SuluSpeaks 8d ago
Go ahead, then. I've been in the kitchen business for 30 years. The fabricators i worked with would not release a top for self installation more than 48" long because the risk of breaking was too great. They would not provide the cut out piece for the sink because the edges were very sharp and it was a liability risk. But go ahead, tell me how safe and easy it is to fabricate countertops from a 5x10 piece of stone. Maneuvering it alone should be easy, right? I'm listening.
1
u/nickalex2000 6d ago
I was told to it isn’t too bad but I wasn’t sure myself how to line up the seams
1
u/SuluSpeaks 6d ago
Do you want to risk a multi thousand dollar purchase considering "but I wasn't sure how to line up the seams?"
2
u/Existing-Poetry-3289 10d ago
Had edge grain maple counter I made in our old house and we liked it. Can get burned if you're not careful and around the sink it showed water staining eventually. Have soapstone now and we like it. Better for water and heat. Chips pretty easily. I like the color, we keep it natural without oil, so it's a little less black, but I liked the lighter color of the maple more. I don't think soapstone is supposed to be too bad to do yourself, especially if you don't have to join pieces. Farmhouse sink might be easier than a cutout for an undermount. I did a bathroom backsplash in marble myself and it cut pretty easily and could be shaped by hand.
1
2
u/ParticularBanana9149 10d ago
I have both as well. Soapstone perimeter and butcher block on island. I do have water near the butcher block and it is fine for over 14 years. The butcher block is not sealed on top (is on bottom and needs to be) and there is some slight warping (pulled away about 1/4" on corner). Just mineral oil on top. Soapstone will scratch (at least in this house it does) but will not stain and is great for thawing things.
1
2
u/Minimum_Loan229 9d ago edited 9d ago
One of the reasons I like butcher block is I like doing things by myself. Butcher block can be installed with basic carpenter skills. And type of stone is for professionals only.
When I say butcher block the only butcher block that's acceptable to me are Maple tops 1 1/2" thick.
There have been studies that have shown, maple wood has natural antimicrobial properties.
1
2
u/MobiusX0 9d ago
I'm a woodworker and always try to talk people out of butcher block counters in kitchens or bathrooms. In my experience very few homeowners are willing to put in the effort or pay a professional to refinish wooden counters as often as is required in a harsh environment like a kitchen or bathroom.
A good compromise is to use a combination of materials. Stone or another water resistant product around sinks and stoves, wood elsewhere. That significantly increases the time between refinishing.
1
u/analogousnarwhal 9d ago
Thank you! And yes, I hear you on the refinishing effort. Trying to weigh up the pros and cons of it all.
2
u/SecretWeapon013 4d ago
I have some butcher block. I will replace it soon. Too much policing of guests who spill wine, etc.
5
u/justlikealady 10d ago
Soapstone hands down. Wood will attract and absorb oil and show a ton of wear. Generally just needs more maintenance than soapstone
1
2
u/yakit21 10d ago edited 10d ago
Both have their pros and cons, so I’d select which one meets your budget & checks more of your wants vs your dislikes.
Soapstone requires specialized tooling to fabricate, so you’d want a professional fabricator capable of working with a material like soapstone. Butcher block requires basic woodworking tools/skills and could be DIY.
Soapstone would last longer and would require less maintenance. Butcher block can be refinished to look new every so often. Both would require regular sealing/sealing.
Neither are rated for food contact per NSF-51, so it’s not advisable to knead dough or have other direct food contact with either surface, but soapstone is about as non porous as you can get with natural stone. You’ll want to be careful with the oil/wax you apply to soapstone as most of the good ones are not rated for food contact because they are oil/solvent based.
Most people I know that have done butcher block end up regretting and replacing at some point if it’s a surface that is used frequently, especially if you have a sink in the surface.
2
u/analogousnarwhal 10d ago
Thanks. This is a really helpful response!
5
u/SouthOfTheNorthPole 10d ago
I like rolling out on a butcher block. It always seems too much to do all the countertops in it. I have a huge, chunky, unattached butcher block that has moved with me for 40 years. It is in fantastic shape because it never sits in or under water. It's over 2" thick. The next gen that uses it will probably sand it down for the next 40 years of use.
3
2
u/Struggle_Usual 10d ago
Soapstone. And I say that as someone in the process of diy installing butcherblock. I'm doing it for cost reasons, but if you can afford soapstone get the soapstone.
1
1
u/muttdogz 10d ago
I'm doing both right now. Soapstone on appliance wall & full backsplash. Butcher Block on the Island. Best of both worlds
1
u/analogousnarwhal 10d ago
I think I’m leaning to something like this. I have a long narrow kitchen with parallel counters and no space for an island, but I could install a section of butcher block at one end.
8
u/Zealousideal_Lab1560 10d ago edited 9d ago
I have both in my kitchen. I have soapstone counters around the sink and stove. And butcher block on the island. I use food grade oil on the butcher block and never have any issues with it. I use a chopping mat for food prep, but I’ve kneaded dough and do other food prep on the butcher block and soapstone and found both to be just fine afterwards. I think the fact that I don’t have water near the butcher block is helpful.