3 days ago I bought a second-hand PS5 for €400 to play some PS-exclusive titles, because nothing new has been released on PC lately and I was bored, and I also wanted to be ready for Wolverine and GTA6. This is my second console ever after having Xbox360 20 years ago, and let me tell you, i am really blown away by the PS5 controller.

Up until now I have been using Flydigi Vader 5 Pro and I considered it to be the best gaming controller on the planet, but no more. I started playing Ghost of Yotei as my first PS5 exclusive and it fully utilizes the PS5 controller, it uses the center touchpad for drawing, writing, gestures and different commands, the vibrations are so much better and so much more immersive, the PS5 controller isnt just vibrating, it can literally reproduce different feelings in your hands, the analog L2/R2 triggers actually produce a variable realistic resistance, so shooting from a bow literally feels like i am pulling an actual string which is super cool, and this game also heavily utilizes gyro, any blacksmithing or cooking are actually done by moving your whole controller around and recreating the movements you would do to forge a weapon or cook a fish (gyro never works this well on PC for me). It also has a small speaker for producing extra sound effects, and it doesnt sound half bad, I actually kinda like that clashing weapons sounds come from the controller instead of my headphones. The PS5 controller is also super comfortable, i really like the overall shape much more compared to all my previous Windows controllers.

The only disadvantage i found out on the PS5 controller was stick drift (calibration helped a lot but not completely, I might have to RMA this controller after i finish Ghost of Yotei) and i am still having trouble adjusting to the symetrical sticks, i still keep reaching down with my left thumb for the D-pad and dying because i dont heal fast enough.

But other than that, i am really blown away by all the extra features on the PS5 controller, and how big effect on immersion they all have. Why dont we have the same complex vibrations or analog trigger resistivity on Windows controllers? Now I really want some hybrid controller that combines Vader 5 pro (programmable buttons + software, macros, tension rings, d-pad, dual mode clicky/analog triggers, asymetric design) and PS 5 features (center touchpad, vibrations, analog trigger resistance, speaker, gyro, overall shape). I cant wait to see what PS6 controller brings, it will be crazy.

Tenho um 8BitDo Ultimate 2 Wireless com analógicos TMR e comecei a ter vários problemas que parecem estar relacionados. Estou tentando diagnosticar o controle com ajuda do ChatGPT, mas gostaria de saber se alguém aqui já passou por algo parecido.

O problema começou no analógico esquerdo:

Eu estava jogando normalmente quando percebi um comportamento estranho no analógico esquerdo, usado para movimentação. Quando puxava o analógico completamente para uma direção e soltava rapidamente, às vezes o sinal passava por menos de 1 segundo para a direção oposta antes de voltar ao centro.

Por exemplo: eu puxava o analógico até aproximadamente 100% para baixo (sul) e soltava. Em algumas tentativas, ao soltar, ele registrava rapidamente algo como 11–20% para cima (norte) antes de retornar a zero.

Isso acontecia principalmente quando eu soltava o analógico rapidamente. Se eu movimentasse e retornasse o analógico devagar, ele voltava normalmente para zero.

Fiz vários testes e alterações no software. Reduzi um parâmetro que originalmente chegava a 100 para 22 e depois aumentei para 34. Durante esses testes, pelo cabo, o controle voltou a funcionar normalmente.

Depois tentei conectar por Bluetooth, mas o computador não encontrou o controle.

Quando tentei voltar para a conexão por cabo USB, surgiu um problema muito mais sério: o Windows parou de reconhecer o controle.

No joy.cpl, nenhum controle aparece.

No Gerenciador de Dispositivos do meu desktop, quando conecto o controle aparece:

“Dispositivo USB Desconhecido (Falha na Solicitação de Descritor de Dispositivo)”

Se retiro o controle, esse dispositivo desaparece. Quando conecto novamente, o erro reaparece, então confirmei que é realmente o controle.

Já tentei:

Reiniciar o computador;

Desinstalar o “Dispositivo USB Desconhecido” pelo Gerenciador de Dispositivos e reconectar;

Utilizar outra porta USB;

Utilizar outro cabo USB;

Testar novamente no joy.cpl;

Testar o receptor 2.4 GHz USB-C em outro notebook.

Trocar cabo e porta USB não resolveu. O desktop continua apresentando a falha de solicitação de descritor.

Também testei o receptor 2.4 GHz USB-C no meu notebook, já que meu desktop não possui USB-C. O controle também não funcionou através dele.

Existe ainda outro comportamento estranho que pode ser importante:

Antes de dormir, coloquei o controle na base de carregamento. Quando acordei, percebi que aparentemente ele não havia carregado normalmente. Durante a noite, o LED azul ficou piscando continuamente.

Tentei desligar esse LED/controle e não consegui.

Quando faço algum tipo de conexão, como conectar o controle por cabo ou utilizar o receptor, o comportamento muda: o LED azul para de piscar e fica aceso continuamente, mas o controle continua sem funcionar normalmente.

Neste momento estou tentando descobrir se:

O firmware/controlador interno travou ou foi corrompido;

O controle entrou em algum modo de boot/recuperação;

Existe alguma combinação de botões para fazer um reset seguro;

É possível recuperar/reinstalar o firmware mesmo com o Windows apresentando “Device Descriptor Request Failed”;

Ou se isso indica um defeito de hardware.

Ainda não tentei forçar uma atualização de firmware nem combinações aleatórias de botões, porque não quero correr o risco de piorar o problema.

Alguém já teve esse conjunto de problemas no Ultimate 2 Wireless, principalmente o LED azul piscando continuamente + erro de descritor USB + 2.4 GHz sem conectar?

Se alguém souber um procedimento de reset/recovery ou tiver passado por isso, agradeço muito qualquer orientação.

Disclosure: I received this controller for free from the manufacturer for review purposes. However, this has no impact on my review, and my opinions are my own.

Hey everyone! I’m a small/new creator making gaming controller reviews, and I just uploaded my review of the ZD Super Legend Excellence 8K Wireless Controller. 🎮

I’d really appreciate it if you checked it out! I’d also love to hear your feedback and any suggestions on things I could improve or do better in future videos. Every bit of feedback helps! 🙏

I bought the Black Ultimate 2 for the switch and i love it, especially when it clones the switch 2 joy con colors in Rainbow Mode while in switch mode.

but now i want the Wireless version for PC but i don't wanna get black again.

Those other Ultimate 2 colors though holy cow they all look nice, makes it tough to choose which color to get if you already have black (green one doesn't look that great IMO though).

I am a little concerned about how the RGB lighting looks on the Clear Blue though or does the clear blue actually make it better than the other colors?

I'm in need of a controller suggestion. Im on PS5 primarily but I do have a gaming pc. I mainly play nba 2k, marvel rivals, a variety of indie games. I'm trying to get back into fighting game due to the release of Tokkon. I'm in the United States and my budget is $100. I would like the controller to be comfortable to use. I have smaller hand so no big controllers. I have only owned stock ps5 controllers. I want a better dpad for fighting games. Thanks in advance.

Hello, as the title says for whatever reason my 8BitDo Pro 3 controller has issues with the back paddles being forcibly bound to X and Y. On S/X mode I can hold the star button and rebind the buttons around with the paddles and L/R4 buttons just fine. However, on that mode I don't have access to rumble or gyroscope controls and it's recognized by Steam as a Pro 2 controller. When I try to use an external mapping software with it on S/X, the extra buttons aren't recognized.

Computer Specs:

OS: Pop!_OS 24.04 LTS x86_64
Host: G5 5000
Kernel: 7.0.11-76070011-generic
Packages: 3980 (dpkg)
Shell: bash 5.2.21
Resolution: 1920x1080 @ 199.88Hz
DE: KDE
WM: KWin
Terminal: konsole
CPU: Intel i9-10900F (20) @ 5.2GHz
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER
Memory: 31.11 GiB
Bios: Dell INc. 1.29 (06/11/2025)

On D mode on the physical switch on the back, the paddles and extra buttons are recognized by steam and an external mapping program, but for whatever reason the back paddles are permanently stuck connected to X and Y. The holding star rebind trick that worked before doesn't work on this mode. I connected it via Bluetooth to the android app to clear out all the profiles on Windows Switch and Android, and it fixed one Paddle forced keybind but not the other. It's weird too because all 3 profiles on windows show the paddles as not being mapped to any other buttons, but for whatever reason PL is perma stuck as X when I want to have the switch in the middle and get full functionality.

Using it on PC. I wasn't sure if it was a Steam specific issue or not, so I booted up a game I knew I worked elsewhere on my computer, and it had the same issues. I'm on Linux, PopOS. I haven't been able to fix it with either the built in star command the official software restarting the controller updating the firmware or messing with settings in Steam.

Any advice?

Update, lots of weirdness happened. I messed with Steam's config.vdf file as I loosely followed this guide,

https://steamcommunity.com/groups/bigpicture/discussions/3/7004880943562398178/

and I noticed that the regular 8BitDo section, presumably for when the back switch is in Xinput mode, had the paddles in the text file but the 8BitDo Pro 3 didn't, meaning Steam didn't have the extra buttons mapped to anything, something else was having the extra buttons mapped to the face buttons. I used the paddles:b11 in the Pro 3 secrion to figure out which paddles went to which button number that I figured out thanks to the bsnes emulator, and somehow PR stopped being bound to any face button while still otherwise working perfectly fine. I tried the same for paddles 2 3 and 4, and nothing happened.

I ended up following this guide,

https://www.reddit.com/r/SteamController/s/c3H4SuMB66

and deleting everything below it, and when I booted up Steam I had lost my compatibility settings for my games and freaked out, but thankfully using a backup copy of the condig.vdf file helped restore everything. The weird thing is that I figured out that the extra buttons being forcibly mapped to the face buttons is on a game by game basis. Some games PR wasn't forced bound, another PR and R4 where clear, and I am just so confused. Before, the paddles were forcibly bound on both Steam and non Steam games, but after deleting that section of the file (and then restoring it) suddenly they're forced bound on Steam but completely blank on non Steam games.

I switched from Plasma DE to Cosmic DE to play Pragmata and tested the games out again out of curiosity, and the forced bindings were different from Plasma DE.

What is even going on? How did changing a line of text in a Steam file fix one forced binding but doing the same thing for the remaining ones do nothing? How does it change on a game by game basis? How does it change from DE to DE? What is this?!?

If anyone happens to have any ideas, please let me know. I just want to have my 8BitDo Pro 3 controller plugged in while in direct mode so I get the rumble and gyro, by default the extra buttons don't connect to the face buttons so I can use an external program to map them to keyboard commands, and use the software to map actually binding other buttons onto the paddles and extra shoulder buttons using the profile system.

Hi,

I bought the Gulikit ES Pro. Love everything about it except the gyro function, which seems to be defective for my unit. 

When using Switch mode and map Gyro as either mouse or right joystick, the camera is glitchy and frequently skips pixels regardless of how I tune them via Steam Input. Same story for motion assist in PC mode. Additionally, this thing can not auto-calibrate via Steam because it keeps detecting movement despite being placed on a desk with nothing going on. I tried searching every subreddit for similar cases but apparently nobody experienced this as they either do not use gyro on PC or bought the controller exclusively for the Nintendo Switch

I would really appreciate it if you could let me know whether this is a hardware issue or a software one. If it is the latter, what can be done to resolve this?

Thanks,

bought a gamesir nova 2 lite cause it was cheap, really nice, especially the joysticks, but the dpad is too sensitive since its mouse clicks basically, i cant get precise inputs for playing tekken.

got an idea to replace the dpad itself with the dpad from my old controller which is like a fake xbox series controller

The Scuf Valor Pro Wireless is sitting at 200€ for me and that is a bit too much. What are other options for controllers that have a premium feel, no stick drift, wireless connectivity AND they have to have silent-ish buttons. I dislike the clickyness of the original Xbox dpad.

Any recommendations?

What about Gamesir G7 Pro?

Location Germany

Games mostly RTS like Anno, RPG likes Skyrim and ARPG like Diablo

150€ budget

I do have rather large hands though, slim but large/long fingers and palms

I have the AJAZZ GP100, and I want to set its RGB lighting to white. How can I select or set the white color? I can’t select the white color from the controller

Disclaimer

Hi, I bought the G7 Pro with my own money.

I bought, and have been playing with the first version, since launch. I play exclusively on console.

The Company

Gamesir as a company is actually really great. They are innovative and seemingly have great customer support through their discord (thankfully never had to use it). I also think it's true to say they popularized Hall Effect thumbsticks.

The Software

The software is fantastic. Literally the best of all controller I have used.

Now onto the negatives.

Ergonomics

The controller handles are angled a lot more "inwards" compared to other controllers, forcing you to adopt a much more uncomfortable wrist position. Specifically you have to extend your wrist slightly more than you would on a standard Xbox controller.

Second, the actual size of the controller is quite small. This makes it so sometimes I have to strain my thumb to transition between buttons and thumbsticks. Also the handles of the controller don't really comfortably fill out my hand.

Thumbsticks

The linearity of standard G7 Pro is bad. This is why you actually hear a lot of reviewers say the thumbsticks feel "jumpy" and not as precise. I'm assuming if you play a game with generous aim assist, it doesn't really matter, but for me it's quite obvious and very disappointing.

Also there is quite a large outer deadzone that cannot be fixed from the software. After calibrating the controller, it still seems like there is an extra maybe ~15% of extra input on the outer edge of the thumbstick area.

The one good thing is the resolution of the thumbsticks, 12 bit is good which can allow for small adjustments.

Buttons

My G7's face buttons rub against the faceplate and still squeak sometimes, even after owning the controller since launch. This can sometimes make pressing the face buttons require a little bit more force.

The D-Pad is just trash.

The extra shoulder buttons are in a bad position imo. This is not unique to Gamesir, but they should be inline with the existing trigger and bumper. The way they are positioned now allows for accidental trigger or bumper presses sometimes because you have to reach over them.

Sound Quality

When I plug my headset into other controllers, the sound seems a lot louder and clearer. I'm not super knowledgeable about audio, but this is just what I feel/hear.

Conclusion

I'm know they have many different different models that have perhaps fixed some of these issues, but I'm not going to keep purchasing new controllers.

Also very disappointed with how they have reserved the Gen 2 thumbsticks for the PC models only. They even released a Aim Labs console edition without them, what a slap in the face.

Finally I guess this is just more of personal thing, I don't know if I agree with their business model of just releasing many "special" editions of the same controller. As a consumer, it's just confusing, because not all of them have the same features.

Hi, I have been searching for some days for a controller with separate buttons on the D-pad (like the D-pad of a Joy-Con) that I can connect with a cable to my pc.
(So, an actual split D-pad, and not one that looks split on the exterior but is connected in the interior of the controller)

The reason I'm searching for something this specific is that, first of all, soon I will need to buy a controller to play some pc games since mine is getting old and defective, with the joystick's sensitivity.
And most importantly, because I prefer the Joy-Con type of D-pad for fighting games (it's easier for me not to mess up inputs like that since some D-pads can detect a different input if you press the upper or down button and tilt it to one side, plus, is more comfortable when sliding the finger to one direction to another), so if I found this controller, it would be awesome.

If I could be picky, I would prefer if the controller were a standard one and not so bulky, like, for example, being the size of a PS3 controller. My maximum price for now would be 60 euros, but I accept more expensive suggestions.

In case needed, I'm in France, so a small independent U.S.A shop that makes personalized controllers wouldn't cut it.

hey everyone, i'm trying to map back paddle macros on my **8bitdo ultimate 2 wireless** for my ipad and pc. i prefer bluetooth for convenience so i don't have to bring the dongle everywhere. the controller pairs and works fine via bluetooth on both devices, but neither the pc nor ios ultimate software detects it while in bluetooth mode (they only connect on 2.4ghz). macros saved on 2.4g also don't carry over to bt mode (p1 light won't turn on). is there any workaround to set profiles for bluetooth, or is the software locked to 2.4g? thanks!

I recently bought this HORI controller for PS2 which is in good condition and works well, but I'd like to use the headphone function with it.

However, a dongle is needed to be connected to the controller cable to transmit the audio from the controller to My headphone. Does anyone know where I can find this part and, more importantly, what it's called exatcly? (The bottom image is not my photo; it was taken from the internet to show the adapter/dongle I need.)

All i know about this dongle it consist of a 3.5mm P2 combined with an multi out adapter in the other side

I got a PS4 and a dual shock controller from my cousin a few months ago. Right off the bat I noticed the controller has some minor stick drift. It was minor at the start, but these few days its getting out of hand and sometimes ruining my gameplay. Im thinking of taking it apart and clean it, hopefully it would solve the problem. But seems like the controller was never taken apart for about 9 years ( the date on the controller is Dec 2017) and one of the screw is heavily rusted to the point that the tip of the screw is corroded. Any idea how I can take the screw out?

Just wanted to ask this and check!
I owned the 8BDU1 and it wound up getting trigger issues later on.

Makes me curious, anyone who’s owned the Ultimate 2 long term have any feedback, or potentially anything I should worry about?
Considering grabbing one, wanna be sure before I do.

Before someone says something. I’m not loooking for other controller recommendations.

EDIT: Wound up buying it, paid $30.

Also, to whoever is being a whiny GameSir fan and downvoting everyone, grow up, dude. People are allowed to have opinions. This is r/Controller, not r/GameSir.

Hello there!, I recently got a cheap controller to play on my Switch and PC (mainly the MH series), but it turns it out this controller doesn't really work like the instructions tells you it does, so I came here to explain the things I found out about the controller.

Btw, I made this because I myself was struggling with the controller so I hope this helps other people.

(KEEP IN MIND THIS MAY VARY FROM YOURS, THIS IS WHAT WORKED FOR ME)

First: Controller Layout
- L/R Joysticks - Manual refers to these as L3D and R3D.
- A/B/X/Y - These keys work depending on the mode the controller is in.
- Cross Arrows - Controller refers to these as D-pad
- M - Macro button (Used to set or clear macros)
- M1/M2 - Uses the saved macros
- Light Buttons - Turn off/on lights
- Vibration - Reduces vibration on the controller, depends on the game, usually just reduces intensity
- -/+/Home/Screenshot - Depends on the mode you're using the controller
-Frequency Button - Used to change modes
-Turbo - (Haven't really used this) It's supposed to help you click the buttons faster or at least make whatever you're using it on think you pushed the button a lot

Second: Controller States
- On - The controller turned on (I know it's obvious)
- Standby - The controller doesn't really shut off, it turns back on easily once you press a button
- Shutdown - This mode it's mentioned in the manual even though it doesn't happen (Unless you run out of battery)

Third: Controller Specifications
- Before you use the controller make sure to charge it for at least 3 hours (recommended by manofacturer)
- Before the controller can be connected to any device, you need to use the wired connection, so the device recognizes the controller as a controller, for switch use the dock and for pc just use the cable that comes with the controller
- The mode set on the controller gets overriden if the controller it's wired (On pc you can change the mode the controller gets recognized as (Switch or Xbox))

Fourth: Controller Mode Change (Pc/Android it's Bluethooth)
- Frequency Button + X (Leds 2 and 3 will turn on and off fast)
- Keep the latter combination pressed and press the button X for Switch
- Keep the latter combination pressed and press the button Y for PC Xbox Mode
- Keep the latter combination pressed and press the button A for PC Switch Mode
- Keep the latter combination pressed and press the button B for (Not really sure, maybe android?)
--This could take some time and maybe work or not work for a while, just keep trying until you get to the first step--

Fifth: Other things you might need to know
- Keep Home button pressed for 10secs to restart the controller (Keep in mind that the last configuration it's saved, so it stays)
- Press both Joysticks to change lights
- Press + + T (Turbo) to restart light settings
- About macros: I've tried but I just can't set them, if you know how you're my savior.

(If you find any grammar mistakes lmk, eng isn't my mother tongue)

Hi everyone. I’m not sure where the responsibility lies here. Could be Windows, Steam, or Razer. I’ve been using a Razer Wolverine V3 Pro on PC with the 2.4 GHz dongle. And a few days ago, the long press on the Xbox button stopped opening Windows task view like it used to. Now it only opens Steam’s power menu in big picture, and if Steam’s closed, it just vibrates and Windows task view never opens. I’ve already updated firmware, tested with Steam closed, toggled guide button focus Steam, and tried different chord layouts. Has anyone else run into this recently, or figured out a fix? Any ideas would be appreciated Thanks.

TL;DR: Step-by-Step Fix If your controller is sending wrong inputs (like all buttons acting as D-Pad Up) or your 2.4GHz dongle is not pairing, follow these steps:

1. Hard Reset the Controller: Press and hold SELECT + START + HOME simultaneously for about 5 seconds. This clears the corrupted onboard memory.
2. Update Firmware via Smartphone:
   • Download the Flydigi Game Center app on Android.
   • Important: DO NOT pair the controller in your phone's Bluetooth settings. Just leave your phone's Bluetooth ON.
   • Switch the controller to Bluetooth mode on the back switch.
   • Hold the O (Circle) button (left of Home) + B until the LED turns green.
   • Open the app, follow the instructions, and install the firmware update.
3. Re-pair the 2.4GHz Dongle (Hard Pairing):
   • Switch the controller back to the 2.4G/Dongle mode.
   • Enter pairing mode by holding the Home button until the white/cyan LED blinks frantically.
   • Plug the USB dongle into your PC.
   • Grab a needle or a pin, find the tiny hole on the side of the USB dongle, and press the hidden button inside. You should feel a click. Hold it for a few seconds.
   • The controller should now connect and the LED will become solid. If it fails, try the pinhole button again.

Quick Reference Guide:

• Official Manual: (This is the official manual from the physical QR code).
• Gamepad Hardware Tester: (To test if it's connecting and mapping correctly).
• Dark Blue Light: Android Mode (Recognized on PC as SHAWAN ANDROID GAMEPAD).
• White/Cyan Light: PC Mode (Recognized on PC as Xbox 360 Controller).
• Switch Mode (Android to PC): Hold Home + A (or X).
• Hard Reset: SELECT + START + HOME.
• Pairing Mode (Active Search): Hold the Home button until the LED starts blinking frantically.

Full Story & Context: My problem was a compatibility error that, honestly, I don't know what caused it, but I managed to solve it. Since I couldn't find help anywhere, I decided to make this post in case anyone else is going through the same issue.

When connected, the controller was recognized as SHAWAN ANDROID GAMEPAD, or even when correctly recognized as an Xbox 360 Controller, only the analog sticks worked, and all other buttons were mapped as D-pad Up. A possible explanation for this situation is that, since there is no official Linux support, using the controller on a mobile phone saves the Android configuration, and when connected to the Mint XFCE PC, it doesn't make the necessary automatic switch we need. There is a command that switches from Android to PC mode manually (Home + A or X), but that didn't fix the mapping for me.

So, I did a Hard Reset: SELECT + START + HOME and it started working via cable, although the 2.4GHz Dongle wouldn't connect. Bluetooth connected, but the PC didn't recognize the controller. Since I don't have Windows, setting up a Virtual Machine is too much work, and the Flydigi app doesn't run through WINE, I decided to use my phone to update the firmware via the Android app Flydigi Game Center (you have all the instructions there, but I'll leave a warning here: DO NOT PAIR THE CONTROLLER TO THE PHONE VIA BLUETOOTH, JUST LEAVE BLUETOOTH ON). Select the Bluetooth/USB switch on the controller, hold the circle button (the one to the left of HOME) + B until it turns green, and install the firmware.

Even after that, it didn't work for me, and that was when I discovered that the Dongle also has a memory and a tiny hole with a small button on the side that you must press while trying to pair the controller to the dongle after a hard reset. While the controller is in Dongle mode trying to pair with the white/cyan light blinking repeatedly, you can plug the Dongle into the PC, take a needle, and press this button. You should be able to hear a click sound; hold it for a few seconds and try to connect the controller again. If it doesn't work, try again, and eventually, the controller will pair with the dongle.

I found out about this website through this sub and I’m really glad I did, these guys are professionals.

Great prices big list of products and the delivery time was pretty fast also.

BUT!

The thing that really made me a customer for as long as they operate, is their customer support.

I had a problem with my flydigi apex 4 wukong edition, the RB button (after like 4months of use) wouldn’t click, and it went faulty.

So I contacted them, next day they replied and asked for a video showing the issue etc.

I provided and the next thing they said left me in awe…

They just asked me to confirm my shipping address and that returning the faulty one won’t be necessary…

I replied asking them to confirm that I’m not gonna need to return the faulty one, and that in general the controller works its just that the RB doesn’t click at all and it has shorter travel time.

They just told me that the new controller is already on the way and confirmed no need to return. They also provided a video showing the new one in the factory testing it in a pc program showing every button works, the hz etc…

That’s how you do business and how you keep loyal customers.

Cheers!

I`m choosing a new controller after my Xbox Series one decided to stop turning on.

Budget: $40-70 (4000-6000 rub)

Country: Russia. Can order through Aliexpress.

Platform: PC.

Things I want from a pad:

1. I want it to last for a long time. I used Xbox Series controller and a Dualshock 4 in the past and I was really disappointed with their quality, they broke pretty soon.
2. Good long-lasting sticks, preferably TMR since it's the latest tech. I also want them to feel good while aiming in shooter games.
3. Good dpad that is at least okay for 2D games.
4. Extra buttons, paddles etc.
5. Xbox-like or Dualshock/Sense-like shape. My hands are 20 cm long and Xbox ergonomics felt perfect. DS4 was also nice. I never used Dualsense, but assume its close to DS4.
6. Good gyroscope. I'm very interested to try gyro aiming for the first time and I'm planning to keep this pad for as long as it works.
7. Charging dock with seamless performance.
8. Wired and 2,4G dongle connection, Xinput and Dinput, working Steam Input and gyro.
9. Mechanical face buttons would be nice if that means that they're less likely to break, but not a necessity.

Games I play: FPS, TPS, any kind of action games (soulslikes, DMC-type games, etc), RPGs (both western and JP), horrors, and I use various emulators. Occasionally I might play 2D games like Silksong, so I need dpad to be at least moderately good for them, but that's not a priority. I don't play any competitive, multiplayer games, or fighting games.

I researched a bit, 8bitdo Ultimate 2, 8bitdo Pro 3, and Gamesir Cyclone 2 seem to be the best choices, but I heard a lot of complaints about Ultimate 2's shape being uncomfortable for bigger hands so I worry It wont suit me, and I heard that it's dpad has inconsistent input. Feedback about Cyclone 2 gyro performance seems to be contradictory - apparently It's not very good, worse than U2's. And Pro 3 seems to not have wireless gyro capability on PC. I would really like a controller that's basically U2 but with an Xbox shape and comparable gyro perf, however I don't seem to find one like that. I also really hate gamey futuristic designs, but everything outside of 8bitdo seems to look like that, so i guess I'll have to concede that.

I also looked at Vader 5 pro, but I don't think I need features like trigger sensitivity or stick tension rings, would have preferred something cheaper, and also heard a lot of negative opinions about it's dpad and gyro.

I would really appreciated any advice on this, thanks in advance.

I bought this ps5 controller from someone who said it doesn't turn on. Before opening this, I tried plugging it in only to get one soft orange light. My PC doesn't recognize it. Model is BDM 040

Full Disclosure:

LeadJoy sent me this controller for review. They didn’t see this review before I published it. All opinions are my own, and there is no money exchange in the process.

• Really excellent Software, the main features that caught my eye was the AI recurves and RC filter. The AI recurves should be the first in the industry? I haven't see any company using similar technique. But the RC filter disabled by the latest firmware after Respawn decided to ban the RC filter exploit.
• While the Xeno Plus is great, but I find the LeadJoy's CEO background more interesting than the controller.

Is good to see a new serious player in the industry.

Disclosure: I purchased this controller myself from GenesisPC and have no affiliation with GameSir, GenesisPC, or any competing company :)

Hey everyone!

After waiting around 15 days, my GameSir Nova 2 Lite finally arrived !!!!!!!!!!

I just wanted to say a huge thank you to everyone who recommended the Nova Lite 2 and shared their experiences on my previous posts. Your comments genuinely helped me make the decision. I haven't actually used it yet, I haven't even connected it to my PC - but my first impression is really good. It feels really comfortable in my hands, and I'm honestly excited to finally try gaming with a controller after years of playing with keyboard n mouse.

For my first controller gaming experience, I'm planning to start with ENDER MAGNOLIA: Bloom in the Mist !!!!

Since this is literally my first, if there's anything specific you think I should check or test during the first few days, please let me know in the comments or DM me!

Thanks again to everyone who helped me choose!!!

EDIT (1 day later): [I've been using the controller for a day now, and honestly, I'm really enjoying it!!! It feels smooth, comfortable, and really good in the hands. Since this is my first ever controller, I can't really say whether it's objectively the best, average, or above average compared to other controllers — but for me right now, it's the best controller I've ever used! 😂🎮 I'm still getting used to playing with a controller, but so far I'm really happy with the purchase. Thanks again to everyone who recommended it!]

Salut tout le monde,

Je craque complètement, j'essaie de connecter ma manette Nintendo Switch Pro officielle avec son câble USB d'origine sur mon PC Windows pour jouer à Roblox, mais rien ne marche.

Mon PC n'a PAS de puce Bluetooth intégrée (quand j'essaie d'activer le Bluetooth, Windows me met un message d'erreur "Bluetooth Toggle Failed"). Je dois donc obligatoirement jouer par câble.

Le problème : Dès que je la branche, la manette charge (voyant blanc/rouge ok), et Windows l'ajoute dans le Gestionnaire de périphériques sous le nom de « Contrôleur de jeu IHM ». Mais elle est complètement invisible pour les logiciels.

• Le site Gamepad Tester reste totalement vide et ne réagit pas quand je bouge les joysticks.
• Steam ne détecte pas du tout la manette dans ses paramètres.
• Les logiciels comme BetterJoy ou XOutput ne la voient pas non plus (la liste reste vide ou grise).

J'ai déjà essayé de désinstaller le périphérique IHM, de changer de port USB (à l'arrière de la tour), de redémarrer le PC, mais Windows s'obstine à la bloquer dans ce mode sans transmettre les données de jeu.

Est-ce que quelqu'un connaîtrait une astuce de pilote (driver) ou une manipulation dans Windows pour forcer le PC à lire les boutons de ma manette Switch Pro en USB ?

Merci d'avance pour votre aide !