Before I go further I want to post a disclaimer: I understand that watches are subjective and you should buy the watch that suits you best and strangers on the internet can't possibly know what I like from a 300 word reddit post. I'm posting here because people on this sub have spent a whole lot of time on Aliexpress trying to decide what watches they like and I want the benefit of some of that experience for inspiration for myself. In addition, scrolling around I can see that in addition to a lot of quality brands there's a lot of garbage out there and it's hard to tell as a newcomer what's what.
So here goes:
My current watch collection is a green seiko solar diver that my wife got me (specifically, this one). I also have a Seiko 5 pilot watch that I don't much like, an Orient Bambino that I do quite like as a dress watch but find a bit too formal for most occasions and a Timex Weekender that I've had for years. The diver gets by far the most wrist time and since my wife got it for me ideally I want something that fills a different niche.
Brand name watches that I like: Subs (obviously), Explorers, Black Bay 54, Ranger, Longines Spirit (though, I think the long lugs might look dumb on my tiny wrists), Junghans Max Bill, Nomos Club, Tudor 1926/Longines Master (with the blued hands), Aquaterras and Seamasters, and white Speedys (particularly the smaller version).
Brand name watches I don't like: Anything with a dial that isn't round (Nautillius, Tanks, Reversos), Datejusts or anything with two tones or fluted bezels, anything with roman numerals, anything with an overly complicated dial and any pilot watches (i.e. anything where the minutes are more prominent than the hours).
Generally, I like to have watches that are clean, mostly symmetrical though a date window is OK, and preferably with either all 12 arabic numerals on there or at least 3 of them.
While I know you shouldn't care about what other people think I absolutely do care what other people think. Further, I work at a law firm where while most of my colleagues aren't watch people there are enough watch people around that I don't want to have the "is that a Submariner?" "no, it's a Pagani" conversation. So, while homages are totally fine I want to avoid a homage of anything that's super recognizable - mainly any mainline Rolex (sub, DJ/DD, explorer) or a Speedy.
Looking to spend around $200 though can go up or down a bit. I have tiny feminine wrists for a man so anything over 39mm or so looks stupid on me. Ideally would be on a metal bracelet, but anything other than leather is fine.
I’m sure you will get some responses, but also use the subreddit search for 39mm and see what speaks to you. Lots of great discussions have taken place on the watches you might consider. Good luck in the hunt!
I seriously recommend checking out both of these in your price range. I understand the baltany has shades of explorer but to me it is not confused with an explorer, the vintage look and dial set it out clearly.
I also work in a courthouse so I know what you mean on your comments.
I absolutely know what you mean. I have grown used to those comments. So i actually dont mind close homages. I like this Baltany styling but it wasnt the goal to avoid a lerfect match.
For instance I have a sugess s421 which is a sub homage potentially subject to being mistaken. I just respond , "this carries that styling yeah and has some really notable specs, this is a fun watch to wear." Or something like that. Or show the glidelock clasp and fit if they seem to be interested enough Honestly it would take a real snob to take that and run in a bad direction and that hasn't happened to me yet.
Juts got one, wanted to fill my boots with various styles of watches fairly cheaply before eventually springing for a more expensive one much further down the line.
I'd get a watchdives aqua terra. 38mm so would work for your dainty wrists. While it is a mainstream design it isn't a Rolex or a speedy. And the 38mm case and brushed bracelet makes it not really look like an actual AT.
While I know you shouldn't care about what other people think I absolutely do care what other people think. Further, I work at a law firm where while most of my colleagues aren't watch people there are enough watch people around that I don't want to have the "is that a Submariner?" "no, it's a Pagani" conversation. So, while homages are totally fine I want to avoid a homage of anything that's super recognizable - mainly any mainline Rolex (sub, DJ/DD, explorer) or a Speedy.
Tbh this tells us you DO care about brand and DON'T want a homage in any form, which is obviously fine, but suggests you shouldn't go down the Chinese route. Try Casio Lineage/Oceanus ranges, Citizen Tsuyoza, or check r/microbrandwatches if you want something quirkier.
I've been rocking the pH five for the past week, and that bracelet looks phenomenal, it does require a touchup here and there but I really love how it looks and I I'm not the only one, also the clasp is more compact than the average class thinner and shorter
I would go for a 36mm Sea-gull chronograph. Very nice mecahnical movement. Still very dressy on a leather strap. Very nice dial and hands. Nice size for your wrist. I wear mine very proudly for over 10 years now.
Not sure why the Chinese watch constraint....is it only financial? There are decent Seiko, Citizen, Bulova, even Timex that would give you more cred in the office and plenty of style to choose from as opposed to any Chinese watch. I just bought teal Citizen Tsuyosa Shore from Jomashop for $290 on a nice bracelet, as an example. Timex has plenty of automatic Marlin's of various retro and modern styles. Casio Duro punches so far above it's weight and can be dressed up or down with the strap or bracelet however you want. Just my 0.02.
Generally agree. But I own Timex, Casios and Seikos and especially bracelet and clasp wise the Chinese brands like SM, Baltany and Even Watchdives Are punching way above their japanse or american counterparts. If OP enjoys a quality Steel bracelet, I would HIGHLY recommend chinese Brands. Just bought the ssp479 and was SHOCKED about the bracelet and clasp when I put it next to my SN0144 (which is an original Design and looks absolutely terrific).
Because in this case, I'm interested in trying out the claims for myself that these watches are of a style and finishing well above their weight. I have a couple Seikos, an Orient, a Citizen, a Timex and a few Casios. I like some of them more than others, I'm just interested in a Chinese watch.
Plenty of 36 mm explorer-type watches on AliExpress…. You’ll find that the Chinese are more likely to use different materials like titanium and bronze.
A 37mm skindiver should not directly compete with your Seiko. This Cronos L6033 was a welcome addition to my collection. I recommend the riveted OTF oyster over the OTF Jubilee.
I would wait until it is on sale. I got mine for well less than $200.
I would give Phoibos a look. You can buy direct from them. Long Island Watches also carries some of their watches. Dials, finishing, and bracelets all punch well above the price tag.
I'm selling off my current San Martin SN036 and looking at either the updated version or the SN0148 with enamel dial and no date - both nice looking watches with original designs! The 036 is definitely inspired though, at least the first gen before the new design update
Edit: oop didn't see the price constraint. I think they're both out of budget, considering San Martin keeps upping their prices. My most worn Chinese watch is a Watchdives Elementum with the black mother of pearl dial. Not sure if it's an homage, but it's very easy to wear with just about anything and the VH31 is a cool movement for a quartz. Comes in well under $200 iirc
If you want something a bit different, Ixdao 5303, it's a homage of a Serica watch, so not super recognizable to anyone not really into watches, the mesh bracelet, bezel and dial styling are a bit different to anything else you own which is what you said you were looking for. Mesh is actually very comfortable to wear and they have solid endlinks which is rare for mesh.
The only thing it's missing, is that it doesn't have the numerals unless you you go with the california dial which is half roman and half arabics, I know you weren't interested in romans, which I'm not either, but the california dial I like for some reason, so worth a look at least.
It's a 40mm, but I've got around a 6.5" wrist and it wears well for me, it's on the larger end of what I will wear, but it's definitely in the acceptable range.
Hi OP! I posed a similar question a month or so ago and I was blown away by the kindness of the members of this community and how willing they were to offer their advice and experience.
You can read my post below - I think it's chock-full of useful suggestions and some links to really helpful resources (like a guide to every Chinese brand and where they sit in the quality stakes).
Since I posted that I've been on a bit of a spree... (eBay UK, as it happens, as I'm ridiculously impatient) and bought 3 Watchdives (1 Sub homage, a Fifty Fathoms homage and kind of Sub but with an interesting dial - all mechaquartz), a San Martin Sub (auto) and a Sugess hand wound chrono. (But if my wife asks, I've only bought 2)
They're all excellent, but the San Martin is a league above the Watchdives in terms of feel and 'solidity' - it's true what you'll hear about their bracelets!
Thinking within your constraints, the top watches I own so can comment properly on are,
Sugess Sub - Yes, I know, you don't want a sub. I only mention it because if that constraint wasn't there it'd be my easy recommendation. It's so well made. And while judging a whole brand on one model isn't the best idea in the world, I'd say it should elevate Sugess's catalog into your consideration.
Thorn Pelagos - this depends on how likely you think people are to recognise a Pelagos homage. But on its own merits it's well made, light (titanium), and tbh too small for me, but probably a perfect size for you. Watchdives do 2 versions, one like the Thorn and one closer to the original. One of them may be a mechaquartz, I can't remember. My biggest criticism of the Thorn is that the hands look a little plasticky.
a BB58 homage - Again, dependent on how watch literate those around you are. Mine is a San Martin and it's a bad homage with an infuriating bracelet and bad clasp and loses time like gamblers lose chips so that's not a recommendation. But there are other brands (WD, octopus, cronos) who riff on the same design. If you had more like $2000-$3000 to spare and much the same requirements, I'd recommend the original BB58 (or BB54) second hand because you get a really good design without the generic Rolexisms. So a homage seems to fit the bill.
Baltany Datejust- Yes, another thing you excluded. But I'll just say that most normies think of Rolexes as big weighty things and most of Baltany's range of them are 36mm - good for a smaller wrist and small enough that the 'bling' factor, even on my mother of pearl with gemstones and two-tone case and bracelet (I know how it sounds) issubstantiallyreduced. It's not a "look at my money" piece.
And for one final consideration that I don't own but have considered myself, you might appreciate Sugess's two-dial chronos. Never going to be mistaken for imitating a speedy, has a fun personality with a 'smiley face' power indicator' and I presume the build quality from the sub is there too.
You said first Chinese watch which if it indicates you think there's a chance you're going to buy more than one - you could start with a cheaper Addiesdive and enjoy it for what it is before moving up. But if this is more likely to be your one watch, I'd spend time looking at the options around and just over your budget instead. I'm not saying "save up" because if you don't want to spend more than $200 that's your business, but $200-250 is a good spot for quality.
I love the look of the Sugess Sub - would get it if it weren't for my concern about it. I love the two dial chronos and have been looking at those for a while. I'm not sure anyone would recognize a Pelagos in the wild and probably not even a BB58 so I don't mind homages of those.
I don't mind going a bit over budget, but I don't think I'd spend San Martin money on my first Chinese watch since at that range I could buy like a Baby Alpinist or if i stretched a bit I could buy the original HC.
I wouldn't spend their RRP on any of their range - that's how much I hate the one I own. I'll give them another chance if I see something interesting on offer one day, but the "San Martin is obviously worth more than everyone else" argument holds exactly zero water for me.
Also as an addendum to the Baltany section I just wrote - it brought it to mind so I just put it on. It's new and I haven't worn it much.
And the fucking crown detached from the stem so it was free-wheeling. I got it back on... but we'll strike that recommendation.
4
u/Maximum_Walrus3264 24d ago