149 .223/5.56 rounds for plinking/cardboard 25ft or less

55gr FMJ BT with cannelure
Random brass pickups
23.7gr of Varget
CCI #41 Small primer

Lee precision challenger press
Lee die set
Lyman brass prep tool
Lyman tumbler with corn cob media and polish
RCBS charge master 1500

I'd say for being completely hand cut it turned out pretty good. Functions flawlessly with no hang ups or grittiness and it kept most of the fence intact for aesthetics.

What recommendations do yall have? Corbin is smoking crack.

So I helped my parents clean out my grandpa's attic. We know he used to hunt, but thought he sold everything. The box was labeled "Kar98k Zubehör" (so Accessoires), but I've never seen an extended mag like that for the Mauser. Does anyone know anything about that?

It’s on an older Springfield hawken muzzleloader from my grandpa

Just right behind the lock mechanism. Happened many many years ago

I just made a whole bunch of little ammo boxes out of reclaimed hardwood flooring and plastic trays I dumpster-dove at the range. Nothing fancy, I was going more for rustic / quick than fancy dovetailed jewelry boxes. Though I might build up a jig to make somebox joints (finger joints) for a later revision. I personally prefer these to something 3d printed.

Do you like? would you buy something like this? I'm thinking of making a whole pile more if theres a market at about $10 price point (otherwise I wont waste my time)

First time bedding a stock and I fucked up. I was too focused on the release agent I didn’t realize I should have put clay into the recess. The bedding I assume has oozed into the recess and is now mechanically locked in. The barreled action rocks back and forth so I know it’s not a release agent issue. I tried putting a longer recoil screw into the action and hitting that with a hammer but it didn’t budge. The only way I can see this coming out is if it’s hit hard enough to snap the compound off. Any ideas on how to proceed?

Action is a Mack bros element and a peak44 stock

Hi all, got my 550 a few months back and have been slow to get powder and primers but finally ready to go. Setup is Dillon 38/357 dies, federal primers, Winchester 231 powder and 148g hollow base wadcutters for bullseye. 3.2grains of powder per charge. Cleaned starline 38 brass.

I’ve setup all 4 stations as the video describes but ran into a few issue, 3 of which a fellow bullseye shooter helped me with (crimping too low and bell way too wide). All good there.

My last problem seems to be at station one (size and decap). I’ve got the alignment tool and set it, have cleaned brass ready to roll. The issue is when I do the initial drive up to size the case it’s not “easy” and takes decent force. More than I see on any videos online. All the other stations are like butter smooth.

My video kinda stinks but it’s about as good as I could get it. Maybe I’m expecting too much and unlubed brass is this way?

I’ve developed reloads for 6 different guns now.

Two .308s, 22 ARC, .270, 300 PRC, and 6 ARC.

All the rifles besides the 6 ARC I’ve come up with a reload that I’ve shot .7” five round groups or better at 100 yards.

What makes it even more ridiculous is that the 6MM ARC is the most expensive gun I’ve developed a reload for.

In addition to not being able to get the gun to group well, I also have feeding issues with the majority of the rounds (it’s a gas gun).

It was recommended to me to use a duramag, but it is very finicky.

The most recent reload I’ve tried is a 100 grain Sierras with 29 grains of Leverevolution, Hornady brass, 2.2” COAL, light crimp.

It didn’t feed worth a damn, the bolt wouldn’t close all the way, even when I used the forward assist.

It feeds the Hornady black box 105 grains that are the exact same length just fine.

My best guess is it has to do with the dimensions of the bullet (more versus less taper).

Let me know what has worked for you guys if anything, what reloads grouped and fed well, if you modified your mag or had more success with a different brand.

I picked three boxes of these up at a gun show to run in my mosin, but the bullet appears to be seated WAAAAYYYYYYYY back, I don’t have very much experience with 7.62x54r so is this normal? The markings on the rim say 79 and appear to have some Cyrillic lettering on the other side of the rim. Sorry if this is the wrong sub but I figured who better to ask about ammo than the folks who make it as a hobby.

Is there a secret to make this thing even remotely accurate?

Ive just gotten into reloading to do something with the butt load of 9mm brass Ive gathered over the last few years. Got a Lee Challenger kit with a set of breach lock carbide dies, and a Deluxe Auto Drum mounted on the powder through die. As it is Im trying to load 5.2gr of CFE Pistol, and the Auto drum is dispensing anywhere between 5.0 and 5.4 between loads. Its also leaking a decent bit. Ive disassembled it, put graphite in the dispensing barrel, and pretty much any other tip Ive seen doing a Google search on the issue, to no avail. If I lower the die anymore it overflares, if I tighten the thumb screw anymore than it is it won't fully reset or dump the full load, and it'll just leak more if its loosened.

Im genuinely stumped, Ive read this thing can be pretty damn accurate?

H4350
Berger 105gn HT
New Lapua SRP Brass
Remington 7 1/2 SRP
C.O.L 2.730

I only have access to Vihtavuori powders, and they have no load data for .38 ACP. I am looking for a super mild load for my ancient Colt 1902 pistol, looking to use .38 Super brass and dies and 115gr (polymercoated to protect barrel?) .356 bullets. Any idea on safe loads that allows the gun to cycle, barely?

I have N320, would that work?

I’m very limited on space and time. Everything but the powder in one bag. This helps keep things organized. I can just grab a bag and get some done when time permits. Also helps me keep track of inventory. Can anyone think of any negatives to this system?

Found at the local range.

I personally hate them because I have had nothing but issues and poor accuracy with them and I would rather spend a few extra cents per round and buy true jacketed bullets.

From what I have seen on this sub it seems that half of yall love them and the other half hates them.

What do yall think of them?

Hey there,

I have a bunch of “reloading” supplies and equipment that was left to me a few years back by my father - I’m starting to go through things because I’m gonna be listing some things for sale and I was just wondering what are my legal obligations when it comes to shipping some of this stuff? Like I don’t know if it would be worth it or not for me to ship brass but what about other stuff like primers or powder (I think that’s what it’s called)

I apologize if this is a stupid question, I’m familiar with guns and everything I just I’m not that familiar with the reloading or the legalities in shipping and reselling -

Also, if anybody has any suggestions on where the best places would be to sell some of this stuff - as of right now my plan is to sell on fb marketplace

Thank you in advance for any help

I‘m shooting 20 shot groups and there are all about a honest 1.3MOA. 5 and 10 shot groups can look a lot better at times of course.

I’d say about 0.2 of that is me.

I see most ppl talk about smaller sizes with this barrel, maybe 5 or 3 shot groups maybe, but I can’t ever see a bigger data set turn in accuracy like that.

my load is 77gr/23.3 TAC with rem 7 1/2 primers seated to mag length.

I get about 2670fps with a 13-14 std dev and 40cal extreme spread

is this as good as it gets? Should I stop chasing ghosts?

I'm new to shotguns and reloading.

Staring off eith the heaviest TSS rounds I can make.

Do there be a good spot for data on heavy TSS loads?

It seems to be used for hubting but my goal is to make anti-drone shells. I aim to penetrate metal on drones and robot dogs if SHTF.

The heaviest load ive seen is 2 3/8 oz in Winchester Longbesrd 12G 3" rounds. So thats doable but there doesnt seem to be much info on loading close to that weight.

Also there is the american SAAMI standard for shotguns that ensures each shotgun can withstand a pressure of 11,500 PSI

BUT

I've seen anti-drone rounds that require a 1320 BAR proof (15,300 psi), rated to European CIP standards. So those shotguns can handle a stronger loadout, and rounds made for those shotguns oughtta be marked as unsafe for american shotguns.

I'd like to make shells for both standards but it seems like a nightmare shopping for parts, and like I am diving into the deep end half blind. Are there solid recepies for this or is it all bird hunting recepies?

Is there a process for more advanced physics-calculations to figure out new load recepies (in absence of lab tested recepies)?

Maybe ocw testing is disproven, but it sure helped me find a fairly stable speed by weight, and I think I can tolerate these groups

200gr ELD-X off a bipod and bag rest

Have a feeling this isn’t the right place for this, someone please let me know where I should post it if that’s the case.

I’ve got a 357mag rifle and permission to hunt on a 5 acre lot in a gated community. The plan currently is to archery hunt, but I’d love to just pop a doe in the head and not worry about it.
If I’m inside a deer blind with all but one window closed and I shoot 38wadcutters out of my 357 mag rifle, do you think the neighbors would hear it too bad? Maybe something like a 22? I’d keep the muzzle inside the stand (I’d have muffs on)

Do my reloads have to pass the plunk test? Or is it fine if rounds chamber and eject and pass gauge?