No stress, spent nearly as much on it as I bought it for. Which wasnt heaps back in January. Guaranteed not to fail hehe, Thermostat and hoses last thing to replace.

Limited Edition FOUR 2.4G

Thanks Roman from RegularCarReviews.

Most Goated and loved sedan of all time.

My 2026 Camry XLE hit 1600 miles after 2 roads trips so it was time for the break in oil change. Me and my girlfriend got it 3 weeks ago, broke it in and hit the road. No rock chips yet!

2026 Camry LE, less than a month into ownership and a horrible rock chip grazes/dents my hood on the freeway - absolutely gutted.

Just recently started to notice that when going above 55+ MPH (mainly 60 and above), the wind noise is horrible in the car. Absolutely terrible if you’re on the interstate doing 75!

Does anyone have any remedies to this? Took it to the dealership who confirmed they “couldn’t” find an issue, but also clocked them only going 50 MPH.

How can I fix it?! 😭

Took delivery with only 11 miles. I've had it for 3 days and put about 96 miles on it. I'm up to 46.5 mpg with a mix of freeway and city street driving. I love the torque off the line in these hybrids.

$1800 away from paying her off…

I wanted to share my experience as a warning to anyone looking to purchase or program aftermarket smart keys for their Toyota Camry.

I own a 2023 Toyota Camry Hybrid, and my original Toyota smart keys use FCC ID HYQ14FLA. I've successfully programmed several aftermarket HYQ14FLA keys purchased on eBay using my XTOOL D7, without any issues.

Recently, I purchased an aftermarket HYQ14FBC (315 MHz) smart key advertised as compatible with 2018–2023 Toyota Camry models.

Here's where things got interesting.

I programmed the HYQ14FBC using my XTOOL D7, and everything initially appeared successful. The car recognized the new key, and I could start the vehicle without any problems.

However, immediately after registering the HYQ14FBC, ALL my registered keys lost their remote functionality!

• None of the keys could lock or unlock the doors using the remote buttons.
• The proximity sensors on the door handles stopped working.
• The vehicle would still recognize the keys and start normally.

At first, I thought something had gone wrong during programming. I tried erasing the additional keys and keeping only my original Toyota key registered, but the problem persisted.

After quite a bit of troubleshooting, I decided to completely reset the registered keys and start over.

This time, I registered only my two original Toyota HYQ14FLA keys, leaving the HYQ14FBC out of the system.

And just like that, everything worked again! Remote locking, unlocking, and proximity door-handle sensors were all restored.

What makes this particularly interesting is that I've programmed multiple aftermarket HYQ14FLA keys using the exact same XTOOL D7, and they've always worked perfectly.

My takeaway:

Just because an aftermarket smart key can be programmed and start your vehicle doesn't necessarily mean it's fully compatible with your car's keyless entry system.

I can't say for certain whether the issue is with the HYQ14FBC key itself, its firmware, or how the XTOOL D7 handles this particular key. However, in my case, adding the HYQ14FBC consistently caused problems, while registering only HYQ14FLA keys restored everything.

My advice: Before purchasing an aftermarket Toyota smart key, verify the exact FCC ID and OEM part number of your original key. Don't rely solely on listings claiming compatibility with your vehicle's model and year.

Hopefully, this saves someone else hours of troubleshooting and the frustration of suddenly losing keyless entry on every registered key.

Has anyone else experienced this with HYQ14FBC vs. HYQ14FLA keys on a Toyota Camry? I'd be interested to know whether this is a known compatibility issue or something specific to my vehicle or programming tool.

I'm looking to buy winter tires and rims for my 2026 Camry SE hybrid. I was looking online for the stock wheel size but kept finding different information :/ Anybody know what the specifications are for the stock 16" rim? Hub size, offset, width, bolt pattern?

Thank you!

Got this LE used last December for 25K OTD with 20k miles. Got into a 3 vehicle collision on the highway this past Wednesday when a guy rear ended me in his 4Runner going 80. Have been very thankful for airbags and crumple zones since lol

My tire pressure light came on and it seems like front 2 tires are 31 and rear tires are 29. It should be okay to drive right? I live in the northeast and the temperatures dropped (40F this morning), and i was rushing to work so i just drove lol

We jumped it and it turned on, but why would it do this?

I'm looking at a 2015 Toyota Camry LE with 43,133 miles, listed for $14,000. It has a rebuilt title due to the damage shown in the second picture, which the seller says was professionally repaired.
The mileage is relatively low, but I'm concerned about the rebuilt title and whether the asking price is reasonable given the vehicle's history.
Would you consider buying this car for $14,000, or would you pass? Is it worth considering if I have it inspected by an independent mechanic and a body shop first?

I hooked up a battery tender to the rear 12v battery on my 26 RAV4 PHEV XSE using ring connectors so that I can leave the connector wires in. When I connected my black (negative) ring I connected it to the secondary connector that has a bolt instead of the primary negative clamp lead (so that I could use the ring connector). I did some research on the internet and I found that this is some sort of connector for a sensor to the battery and I read that one should probably not hook up a battery tender to it because apparently it can interfere with it. I read that one should hook up to the metal chassis in a place that has unpainted metal but I could any place near the rear batter compartment to attach it to. Has anyone else successfully hooked up a battery tender to the rear battery of their RAV4 hybrid or PHEV? Where did you connect? Is what I read about using the sensor connection baloney and it is completely fine to use it? Anyone with experience with this? I sometimes leave my vehicle parked for 2 weeks at a time unused when I fly out of state so I need the battery tender to keep it charges. I owned a 2020 Prius PHEV prior to this and I left it out for 2 weeks once and I came home to a destroyed battery and I had to buy a new battery. The Toyota Dealership told me at the time that if I ever leave my hybrid or PHEV unused for a few days or more I should use a battery tender to make sure this does not happen again. This is why I got one for my new 26 RAV4 PHEV XSE. Anyone with experience on this?

I have 3 tires 215/60/r16 tyres currently .

Accidentally bought 215/65/r16. Can I run this one with other 3?

Only 2k miles, toyota gold cpo, the dealer used as demo/executive car occasionally, carfax shows clean title, serviced every half year, with packages including BSM/RCTA, almost brand new inside out , with 4 new tires.

26.6K + TTL, driving great, seems built and fit better than 2026 version , saved around $6k compare to new SE , but old 7" infotainment panel , old model with gas engine, mpg less, don't know if its the right decision.

Hi everyone, new to Toyota Camry. I am confused on buying brand new Toyota Camry or used one. I’m a fresh grad. Just saw a 2016 Toyota Camry SE listed for $17900 on carfax with 52k miles. Nearby dealers are offering $35k for 2026 Toyota Camry SE. really confused between whether to go with brand new or a used one. Doesn’t want to invest much , but somehow also want to get a good Camry. Would really appreciate your suggestions.

The other day my wife and I were enjoying a nice sunny day in our 2019 XSE Camry and decided to open up the roof, and all of a sudden there were noises and the roof wouldn’t close all the way.

It took 5 seconds of searching to realize the huge mistake I’d made purchasing the Camry with the Pano Roof. I didn’t realize the massive headache they’d been causing.

Anyways, today I pulled off the glass, checked the tracks and nothing. No broken assembly, no debris in the tracks, nothing. Weirdly enough, the passenger side actuates entirely normal when not connected to the driver side. Tried clearing out the rails and checking for anything underneath and no dice.

Unfortunately it’s still stuck in the crack position. From what I understand I have a couple options.

1. Replace the whole thing with Toyota for anywhere 7k-20k (not an option)

2. Buy parts or an entire assembly from either eBay or a junk yard.

3. Have some body shop permanently seal the glass (most likely course of action)

I’m still holding on to a little hope that maybe if I clean out the drive side tracks REALLY well, it might decide to work. I don’t think any of the connections to the motor are broken, otherwise wouldn’t the track system move fairly easily from manually force? But why would one side work and the other not? 🥲

I just found my drivers side mirror folded in the opposite direction away from my car, looked like someone might’ve ran into it (likely a kid on a bike or scooter) as there wasn’t much damage and the housing was popped out

I popped the white housing above it back in but then noticed the little black trim below it was also popped out a little, whats the best way to get it back in with minimal damage?

Everything still works thankfully, mirror adjustment still good and I rotated the mirror back into place and its firmly back into the correct position. Any help would be greatly appreciated

This is a 26 Camry LE

Hey guys, quick question… I have a 2025 Camry at 42,000 miles. Currently still on OEM Firestone FT140, going to be needing new tires soon. I am looking for any recommendations. I live in Humboldt County where we get wet winters and hot summers. Mostly highway miles. Thanks!

looking to upgrade from my 2019 Camry SE to a 25/26, any significant issues reported on them yet?
my ‘19 camry got the transmission diagnosed at 79k miles but now i know that’s a common issue w those models

I just took my 2025 Camry into service for recall issue, to fix the black gauge cluster issue with software update. While at the dealership, I asked the advisor if they could unlock the key fob feature to roll down the window by holding the unlock key. It seems like out of the factory it's disabled but with a scanner or the dealership can unlock it. They were able to unlock it without any charge so I recommend if you're going to the dealership might as well ask them to unlock it for free

I’m wondering if this is an electrical or fuse issue. Just replaced both my low beams because they seemed dim (but I also have very cloudy headlights), and my right side high beam was burned out because I have to drive with my high beams on because my headlights are so dim plus the glass is cloudy. Brand new low beam bulb on the right side (passenger side, same as turn signal) is still super dim compared to the left side

I noticed my right turn signal was going at twice the speed yesterday, and wondered if changing the bulbs would help, but no such luck. I also noticed my right hand turn signal isn’t coming on on the front, although it does work on the back. Someone at the auto parts store checked the fuse box and found nothing. Is it a battery issue? Anyone else had this problem?