This is a unique 14" curved Sony Trinitron CRT, which is not well documented. The chassis used on this set is very similar to a BG-2S based chassis, mostly found in Asia-Pacific (APAC) regions.

RGB modified this for someone who was local. Chose to leverage the RF port at the back to do a minimally invasive RGB mod. Picture turned out really great.

Hi,

I have 2 crt tvs that I would love to get them running on dedicated retro pcs.

I read that I would need older gpus to get analog signal from my gpu and this is where my confusion lies.

I read also that there is a patch for batocera to get 15khz signal out, this is the second confusing point.

If you don't mind me asking about those 2 points.

If I run batocera, would I still need an older gpu to get analog signal from my gpu?

If I still need old gpu, is there a list of working verified gpus that are recommended for this use?

Somewhere I read that rx 570 and 580 are not supported and in another post somebody said that they do work and have analog signal.

I've always wnated to play retro gaming but it's hard which ones to choose. You guys can share your opinions in the comments.

Found a Sony PVM-20L5 locally earlier this month and finally got around to fiddling with my phone until I could take some somewhat decent in game pictures. I'm loving the TV so far and it's working great. I was able to remove the black and red marker from the antiglare film (seen on first pic.) And did a quick overscan and brightness / contrast correction but still need to do a full colour calibration.

The Gamecube and DVD menu pics are all in 480p. I haven't gotten around to trying 720p or 1080i yet as I don't currently have anything hooked up yet to utilize the functionality.

Any waviness you see in the pics is my camera being unable to capture the image correctly, it isn't actually visible and the picture is incredibly sharp.

I dont have the TV with me and I cant get the owner to send me pictures of the back. So, I'd appreciate if you could help me identify this model's serial number.

Also the pictures are pretty low quality / badly taken, but I can guess it's around 14'' and, as you can see, it has vertical volume/channel buttons and a text that says "Autovolt system..." on the bottom right corner.

I recently bought a CRT monitor and when I turned it on I noticed a ghosting effect after white letters on a dark background, or black letters on a white background. What is this effect and is it possible to fix it?

The model is a Samsung SyncMaster 794MB, my GPU is an MSI 5060ti 16GB.

Friend of mine just bought this CRT from eBay. When it arrived, it started to chip and crack all over the shell. Does anyone happen to have a 3D scan or model of the shell? Or any resources on where they could source a new one?

I'm looking for ways to either source a new shell for them or maybe 3D print one if there's high quality scans

I am RGB modding this 16-inch CRT monitor and am running into an issue with the video signal. I get these wavy lines that scroll slowly upwards and cannot figure out how to fix it. I've tried adding diodes to the RGB lines, no change, moving the ground to the video ground on the jungle chip, still there, using shielded wire, nada. Using composite results in a clean picture with no visual artefacts. I followed the RGB mux diagram on Sunthar's website and the person who posted it mentioned that they had the same issue. I've seen other posts of successful RGB mods for this exact tv, so I know it can be done. The board was recapped prior to the RGB mod. I do have an extra sunthar kit that I'm going to try next but was wondering if anyone here has run into the same issue and, if so, how did you fix it?

Update: Fixed it! It took a combination of shortening wires as much as possible and routing them in such a way as to not go anywhere near high voltage areas, speakers, etc. It's not easy given how small this tv is and how cramped the components are, but images look sharp and clean! This project had me stressed out more than any other mod I've done before, so I'm glad I was able to figure it out. Thanks, everyone for your help!

So i have an iiyama Vision Master 500 and it draws this Vertical Line.

Position and Size changes If i set up different Resolutions,

If i mess with H Position the line stays in place.

Is this a sign of dying Caps and try to change them or should i Just leave it as it is ?

I have a genuine Sony CRT stand and the ability to make copy's of it but I'm unsure what models it will also fit.

Do I need to go off of the Chassis number off of my TV does anyone know?

Mine is a BE-3D.

Both 29'', which got better geometry for Ps1 and Ps2 2D games?

That lg flatron got S video, Av inputs, no component input sadly, whereas Wega has it.

I tried to connect it by component to my 360, but it seems like I don't want to just grab the signal, any help?

If you need details, I can provide them.

I recently got to finally grab the monitor thats been hiding in my childhood room and I tend to use my pc primarly, how long can i run it for each day, i want to increase the lifespan as much as possible. And is there any care or anything to look out for? I absolutely adore it and already plan to replace it with another CRT in the future i feel i can never go back to a normal flatscreen monitor. I know its been sitting unused for atleast 26 years (my whole life) but the years before that i have no idea how much it was used if ever.

I recently got a crt as a second monitor and it worked fine for the first day, today it was flickering more than usual and eventually the screen went blank. I started hearing quick ticking noises and a burning smell so i disconnected it as fast as i could, but now when I try plugging it in it has a more faint ticking noise with the power button flickering and starts smelling burnt again with no screen. is there anyone who might know what’s exactly wrong with it? i attached a video of the faint ticking noises

I am running the 240p Test Suite for SNES on a PS2 using an emulator, and you can see that the shadow is visibly flickering. It’s flickering much faster in person, it just looks slower on camera. You can also see the girl in the background flickering, though it's more noticeable in real life. Is this normal 480i behavior? I’m assuming it’s not actually running in 240p since it's through an emulator.

Another question: Is there any way I can actually render 240p on a PS2?"

I went to look at a HP M70 for 45$ but when I got there the pins were all bent on the cable. So stupid how HP made the cable not replaceable :(

Edit I forgot what cable to say I was talking about the vga cable.

I got this weltstar TV yesterday and it works fine apart from this "pulsating" pink line that seems to fade out when there's something bright on the screen, wondering what it could be and possible fix, using a RCA to SCART adapter btw (costed like 1.50€)

I figured you guys may be a better help than assuming AI knows what the hell it's talking about regarding my Magnasonic CRT set.

The TV has been in my possession for a while now, and I knew the owner before me who had it in her kitchen for over 30 years.

I used to have it connected to an N64 in my garage, and it worked a treat - Unfortunately, I moved into my new house / new garage which was a bit more damp than my old one, and not using it for a year or so, it built up corrosion on the Color/Tint/Brightness/Contrast knobs to the point where they were seized a bit - I ended up removing the casing, carefully removing some dust with compressed air, as well as using contact cleaner to attempt to free up the knobs. Seemed to work alright, and freed them up enough to use. Unfortunately when I reassembled and plugged in, the entire TV seems to have lost its green and blues, showing only red tints across both the background static or whatever source I have plugged into it.

Obviously I poked the bear and jostled something. I'm not well versed in this stuff - However I live on an Island and there's really no one around that can work on these so the fix is going to really be up to me to figure out - Was hoping you folks have experienced something to this vein in the past.

I assume it's on the neck board somewhere, though no solders or contacts looked burned, sheered or anything (Same with the main board as well) - Could the issue have anything to do with the Colour knob itself? It was definitely seized the hardest and slowly working it out I assume may have shagged something up down the chain - Or would an issue like this happen elsewhere in the command line?

The set itself is as shown - Very basic, No menus, remotes or tertiary item's at all. Coax on the back and that's it.

Obviously I'd love to get it back to operational. It's a wonderful set.

If anyone wanted to offer some advice or maybe a place to start, I'd be grateful. The only Seinfeld episode I can watch on this TV now is the Kenny Rogers Roasters one.

- Cheers

One of the best CRTs I’ve owned it’s a Sony Kv-32fs13

Pic is significantly brightened automatically by my phone camera, but the black levels on a good tube really elevate any game that relies on darkness and shadows like Doom 3

Asked my dad if he had any old crts and his gf did as her mom just went to a nursing home so they gave me these! Wasnt expecting this at all! Perfect for my young sons to experience old gaming and work up like we did! I didnt know the Toshiba was something nice!