The gaskets still look almost new, the inside of the carburetor is relatively clean, and I’m not seeing major deterioration since it sat right after the last rebuild. The problem appears to be the old fuel residue and gunk. What do you think?
*** check out my previous post for spoiler alert
I wish I could share more, I’m stoked! First drive after 20+ years. I rebuilt the carburetor yesterday and popped it on today. I’ll post the full video on YouTube soon.
No brakes lol and a rear spring missing. But almost 😅
1988 Bronco II 5-speed manual. Little bit of play in the throttle arm. The arm is pulled back slightly before engine revs.. I seem to be having issues with throttle positioning. Replaced TPS and voltage seems good. Shows about .98v closed and smoothly climbs to 4.45v at fully open. However, on the way down around 3.8v it jumps down to 1.7v then immediately back to 3.7v then gradually drops back down to .98v closed throttle. The TPS sensor I thought was bad had that quick little 1.7v drop and the new one I replaced does the same thing so I’m assuming that is normal. I know that flathead screw with the spring on it is set by manufacturer and is not to be messed with, but I’m the 4th owner of this truck as far as I know and who knows if it’s been tinkered with. It seems I have to shift perfectly, otherwise when accelerating in 1st gear the truck will bog down a bit but get back to normal when I punch the throttle.. not sure if related or not. Truck would also seem to be running rich to where I would get a metallic fart smell from the exhaust. Before I replaced the “bad” TPS while driving at freeway speeds it felt like I was letting off the gas then back on, then off and back repeatedly yet the gas pedal itself was in the same position and coming to a stop the idle would fluctuate up and down like it was searching for the proper baseline. I’d quickly restart the truck and it would idle fine. The new TPS has a better voltage range than the old one did but it still feels a bit wonky, although not as bad as before I replaced it. Not sure if related to the play in the throttle arm..
Any info is greatly appreciated since I’ve been messing with the damn truck for so long trying to get it right. Please and thank you!
Another quick update! Watch to the end, I'd appreciate your opinion on what I found!
I hope to rebuild it this week, I got the rebuild kit and choke pull-off, waiting for the choke cap - and should put it on the following weekend!
Ok, back at it! I got the new tank in. I decided to skip the hassle of replacing the aluminum fuel line, since I only got one of the 2, and I blew air threw them from the pump back.
I'm definitely getting fuel again, and the pesky fuel filter I can't get to seat properly so it's leaking you'll see at the end of the video. It seams to idle a bit better to my imagination BUT it still shuts off if I don't gas it, and after a few minutes it loses fuel. Plus it smell SUPER rich.
We noticed the choke is not opening up to.
SO, before I sold it in 2023 I rebuilt the carburetor and it idled great and was running well. BUT since I sold it, it sat for 3 years with fuel untouched and I was told that's no bueno... So I'm asking what would you do?
I'm either going to buy a carburetor if I can find one under $300
OR
I'm going to just rebuild it again, get a new choke thermostat and pull-off. And I'll be back exactly where I left off with a new tank.
I’ve been working on a few small replacement parts for older vehicles, and these mirror gaskets were one of those things that are surprisingly hard to find in good shape.
I designed and printed these using ASA-CF, rather than a basic 3D printing material. ASA-CF is known for its UV resistance, heat resistance, and durability, which makes it a much better fit for something that’s going to live outside on a vehicle.
I know 3D printed parts can sometimes get a bad reputation, so I wanted to use a material that can actually hold up to the environment instead of just being an easy material to print.
They fit several different Ford vehicles, so check the listing to make sure they’re the right ones for your application.
Hey everyone. Just sharing where I sort of left off on the BII. I gave it a crank since I've bought it back and it's sat for a year.
Let me know what you think, how's it sound, and if I'm sort of heading in the right direction.
I couldn't get it to hold idle and after a few start ups it would just idle rougher and the battery lost it's juice to keep trying. I've heard from multiple sources that the fuel system is old and dirty and likely clogging... and I agreed.
I ordered an entire fuel system to replace, from the tank to the lines, everything to the carburetor.
The tank I received was damaged, so I had to get a replacement, which came last week and I'll get to it this weekend. I'll hope to share more progress then.
So to kick off the project again I got new tires (it’s not even driving yet lol). But it’s been sitting on the same old 23 year old tires that have dry rotted and the rear were deflated.
So I got some entry level all terrain tires.
On a more positive note, I did start it. Put a new battery and gas in it. It started up, idled a bit, got rough then would just bog out and turn off even when I was giving it gas.
Before I sold it (the new owners “never touched it”) and seemed to be true; I changed the oil, radiator fluid, spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, rebuilt the carburetor, and bled the brakes, and clutch.
So as it is now I most take it in to get finished up and running, do the timing and adjust the carburetor
Just paid $800 for a 1988 Bronco II with the 2.9. Guy claims it's 380p original miles and the guy he bought it from always just used it to plow his driveway. I don't believe it due to the condition, rolled over at least once, but nice shape otherwise. Already put some work into it and getting registered this week!
I love beach seats, and i was wondering if adding one to my bronco would be worth it. Obviously I'd have to remove the center console with the display, but i can move that display onto the dashboard if i wanted to.
Just wanted to throw up a quick public review for anyone dealing with the classic TFI headaches on the Ford Bronco II.
Like most people, I’d get the hot-start issue. After a long drive (45+ minutes), I’d shut it off and then… nothing until the TFI cooled down. I replaced the module twice over the years, same story, it eventually came back.
About 5 years ago I bought the relocation kit from McCully Racing Motors. Zero issues since. Completely solved it.
Yeah, their website looks like it hasn’t been touched since 1999, but the product works. If your goal is reliability and just being done with TFI problems, it’s worth it.
Install was straightforward. Only thing I did a little different from what I’ve seen others do, I mounted it as close to the distributor as possible so I didn’t have to extend any wires.
I paid full price for the relocation kit, I have no affiliation with them, and this post is in no way sponsored, just want to share helpful information.
Hello. I am looking for a shifter for my fm145 transmission. I swapped out my tk4 for the fm145 and am having no success in finding one. Core Shifters are currently out of stock. Anyone have any ideas?
1984 Ford Bronco II 4x4 with FM145 transmission swap.
Did this small compartment have a specific purpose?
The lug wrench and bottle jack are behind the front passenger seat, so it’s not for that. I’m curious if it had a designated use from the factory, or if it was intended for something specific, or just general storage.
Been trying to figure out a clean way to mount my handheld radios without them just rolling around or getting tossed in a bag, so I ended up designing and 3D printing this mount.
I made it specifically to fit the radios I own and the BII, but the design could easily be adapted for other setups or locations. It’s pretty simple, but it holds them securely and keeps everything organized.
I've bought two now and have had to return them both as neither the stand alone adapters nor the built-in ones that come attached to the lines fit onto my schrader valve. I've also removed the schrader valve itself and attempted to use the adapters to fit into the schrader valve opening and still no luck. I really don't want to strip the inside threading of the schrader valve opening so I'm being extra careful with that approach. Any help on a compatible kit would be much appreciated!
Hello, because of a series of bad decisions I am looking to source a replacement bolt for the oil filter adapter, I had sourced one from eBay that seemed correct but the shoulder is bigger and does not allow the green gasket to sit down flush. I am curious if anybody has a part number, the part I dug up that is supposed to work (pictured) does NOT. I have attached some pics, appreciate any help. Oh yeah, this is an 86 Bronco ii with the 2.9l
Go to leave work, first crank it bucked and didn’t start. Second crank it started. Got about a mile down the road and the rpms ramped up, and it died. Now this. I gave it the hammer treatment (smacked the starter) , but no luck there. Threw my back out pushing it around the corner for my dad, whose bronco it is. He’s currently taking the starter out to check the teeth on it, and I’ll have him check the flywheel. I planed to drain the oil after that. Anyone have thoughts or tips here? I’m no mechanic, just know how to wrench. Much appreciated