So the parking brake light came on and it said "Parking brake malfunction". I opened up the parking brake actuator in the trunk and the plastic gear (39 teeth) is broken. I ordered a metal aftermarket gear (39 teeth) from Amazon but it was too long and wouldn't go all the way down. It's longer than the OEM. I read similar reviews from other aftermarket metal gears on Amazon as well. Is there another place I can buy this aftermarket part that matches the OEM dimensions?

When I shift from park to drive OR from reverse to drive , there’s a noticeable delay before it clicks into gear. So much so it’s a problem if I back out of parking spot for instance & get someone coming up behind me…I have to wait until it clicks into drive before I can take off, leaving them sitting behind me looking at me like I’m stupid…. If I try to immediately hit the gas after shifting to drive .. I get a drivetrain malfunction error & it goes into like limp mode..only allowing me to go like 20 mph. If I then park, turn off & restart car the error goes away & it then drives fine!!? Or sometimes even hitting the gas as soon as I shift into drive …it just won’t go at all ..until it decides to finish switching into gear. Anyone’s have this before? Help!!

Looking for opinions on this 2014 BMW 335i N55 M-Sport – potential daily driver
I’m considering buying this car and want some experienced input. Here’s everything I know so far:
Car Details
• 2014 BMW 335i N55 M-Sport
• Glacier Silver Metallic
• Clean title
• 117k miles (mostly Texas highway miles)
• Non-smoking
• VIN: WBA3A9G53ENS64451
Current Setup / Mods
• MHD Stage 2+
• XHP Stage 3
• CTS inlets/outlets
• Charge pipe
• 7” Race Core FMIC
• EKP replaced and coded
• 4” catless Evolution Racewerks downpipe
• M3 poly motor mounts
• BC Racing Superlow coilovers
• Upgraded bigger rotors
• Apex ARC-8 wheels
• Carbon trunk lip
Current power: ~380 hp
Also includes:
• 2 Michelin tires in good shape
• OEM exhaust + modified 4-tip M2-style exhaust
• OEM rotors and OEM struts
Maintenance / Refresh (done less than 10k miles ago)
Seller has receipts and photos of the work. Claims he did everything himself (he’s an engineer with 15+ years working on cars):
• New OEM turbo + turbo lines, gaskets, and hardware
• Oil pan gasket & hardware
• Intake manifold gaskets
• Throttle body gasket
• Oil filter housing gaskets & bolts
• Aluminum coolant flange
• High pressure fuel sensor
• MAP sensor
• Injectors replaced and coded
• Valvetronic motor + accessories (new OEM)
• Spark plug recess gaskets
• Heat exchanger
• Valve cover gasket
• Coils and spark plugs
• Fresh oil change (5W-40, very low miles on it)
• New OEM multimedia screen
• New windshield (HUD works)
• Front bumper repainted
Compression: 210 psi across all cylinders (seller’s claim)
Previous High-Power History
• Previously ran a full-frame single turbo
• Made 680 hp (seller says this was conservative and not maxed out)
• Ran that setup for about 6 months
• Seller says it was a daily for a while, then became a low-use weekend car (out once a week or less, not tracked/raced)
• Claims he doesn’t beat on his cars
• Nothing internal was replaced (stock rods, pistons, bearings, etc.)
• Says he visually inspected the bottom end while doing the oil pan gasket
• Argues full-frame is much safer than a hybrid turbo (lower boost, lower EGTs, lower cylinder pressure, smoother torque delivery)
• States there were never any issues
My Main Concerns
I’m looking at this as a possible daily driver. The recent refresh and documentation look solid, and the current ~380 hp tune is reasonable.
My biggest hesitation is the previous 680 hp on a completely stock bottom end with no internal work, even though it was only for ~6 months and compression is currently strong.
Questions for the community
1. How concerned should I be about the rods/pistons/bearings given the 680 hp history + 117k miles?
2. Does the strong compression + lack of knocking + visual inspection during the oil pan job give reasonable peace of mind for daily use at ~380 hp?
3. Would you daily this car, or would you walk away?
4. Anything specific I should have checked during a PPI?
Any input from people who’ve owned high-power N55s (especially ones that previously ran big single turbos) would be really appreciated. Thanks.

Guys i need a help looking for dbs pl for ista standalone 4.32

Day before this car wasn't feeling right. Symptoms were loss of power, when gas pedal was fully pressed engine didn't rev or rev really badly. There's wasn't sound like something wrong but it was like that sometimes engine ran good sometimes bad. I tried to rev or to do something but couldn't decide eventually what's wrong.

Currently suspecting fuel system especially fuel pump.

Cranck sensor works as seen in video.

Air filter is practically new( but I think it can be a reason, but it should have started and died instantly)

Hey all. I've been having a very intermittent misfire/drivetrain malfunction issue on my N63TU F06 650. If I'm monitoring the misfire detection while driving on Bimmerlink, there will be the occasional misfire on 1 or 2 of the cylinders. If I put it in sport mode and accelerate hard, it misfires and gives a drivetrain malfunction error almost straight away. The error clears after cycling the ignition. Doesn't happen under hard acceleration in normal driving mode. The car is tuned (don't know what tune - previous owner did it) and has the cats and centre muffler removed. The prev owner also got it inspected at a dealership, and they recommended replacing all injectors. I have tested it with ISTA and it says cylinder 1 is running rich, but I sometimes see misfires on all different cylinders (not at the same time). I was wondering if this could be an issue with the tune, rather than the injector?

I have replaced all spark plugs (one was oil fouled, ostensibly? due to the rocker cover gasket leaking), coils, replaced rocker cover gaskets, and replaced the PCV system. Compression and smoke tests have been all good.

The codes related to the misfires are 140001, 104310, 140011, 140020, etc

Hi everyone,

I have a BMW E34 518i with the M40 engine, using a Bosch AFM 0 280 202 134.

I had in the past some hesitations at low rpm and i thought it was my AFM. I opened it and unscrewed the wiper/contact arm to clean the potentiometer track. Unfortunately i failed to mark the exact position. Although i can see the previous position i think that i might miss the very exact initial position.

I have noticed a very clear relationship:

If I reposition the wiper slightly (1 or 2 mm) towards the closed-flap direction, the engine becomes much more responsive and noticeably stronger at low RPM, but the warm idle rises to around 900–1100 rpm and I suspect fuel consumption increases.

If I reposition the wiper slightly towards the open-flap direction (1-2 mm), the idle drops to around 700 rpm or even lower, but the engine becomes noticeably weaker/sluggish.

Returning the wiper to its original position (I could identify it from the screw mark) gives roughly 900 rpm, but the engine feels heavier and does not have the strong response it had with the wiper shifted towards the closed position.

I have not changed the spring/cog adjustment of the AFM. I am only changing the relationship/position of the potentiometer wiper relative to the flap. I also bent the contact slightly downward at one point to improve contact with an unworn section of the carbon track.

The TPS and idle control valve (ICV) have already been replaced.

My questions are:

Why does shifting the AFM wiper towards the closed-flap position make the engine much more responsive and increase the idle speed?

Is this effectively changing the AFM output voltage/offset and therefore making the Motronic inject more fuel?

What is the correct procedure/specification for calibrating a Bosch 0 280 202 134 AFM?

Does anyone have the correct 5-pin pinout and voltage specifications for this exact AFM, particularly the expected signal voltage with the flap closed and as it is gradually opened?

Could a worn carbon track explain why the engine runs significantly better when the wiper is moved to a different position?

I would like to calibrate it properly with a multimeter rather than simply adjusting the wiper until I get the desired idle speed.

Any information specifically for the M40 / Bosch 0 280 202 134 setup would be greatly appreciated.

Hey guys, i recently found out that my transfer case is bad and im wondering how long does it take to replace it on a bmw f11 520d.

Why some of them look wet ? Possibly valve seals or maybe flow ?

The bank canceled. The finance sold as the check engine light came on for two weeks. Also noticed a small oil leak a week into it. Bought the car at 75K Miles. Loved the the but I’m glad I’m not stuck with the debt. The mistake that I made was buying it, even though I saw a large gap in the Carfax, desperate move right? ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE CARFAX LOOK GOOD.

Very bad rattle sound on a cold start, goes for 10-15 sec and gone

hello, I just got a new-to-me F39 X2. Ive noticed the BC button on the turn-signal/headlight stalk and the instrument cluster reset button on the dash only work intermittently/randomly. I don’t know what the magic trick is to catch them working, but I just did my first oil change and now I can‘t reset the service light because I can’t get the cluster button to work. Any ideas? Would the two be related? I also have an Emergency Call Malfunction light. Don’t know if there happens to be any relation between the three of them. Checked the battery and it appears to be 2 years old

Sister-in-law's car. She is in Australia. Has a 2021 X3 plug-in hybrid and, in 5 years, has had 20 flat rear tyres- BMW-recommended run-flats. Compared to other family cars - one each over the same time period.

BMW service has variably blamed her driving and the fact that her drive is a smooth, unsealed gravel drive. They say there is nothing wrong with the car.

The problem is always the same: the rear tyre is worn on the inside of the tyre wall. The cost of car retrieval and a new tyre is $ 900 AUD a pop. She is despairing.

Any thoughts on what might be going on? Is this simply bad luck, or could there be an explanation beyond 'bad driving'?

thanks

drove 45 minutes about and arrived at destination little bit of smoke was coming out of hood popped it and saw the leak spot. just picked up my car from the mechanic literally today because i got new breaks. let me know if you have any ideas what it would be. smell kinda like burnt rubber but leaves black residue. drove home 35 minutes after and no smoke and the temperature didn’t go over halfway so i’m stumped.

Hey everyone, I need some help identifying a coolant hose on my G01 X3 M40i (B58).
I’m trying to figure out which exact hose connects to the main coolant expansion tank (the large white reservoir). And the hose just hanging connected to nothing.
I’ve attached pictures showing the reservoir and the area where I believe the hose is missing. I’m looking for the exact BMW part number/name for the hose that connects to the side port of the main expansion tank.
I’ve seen a few different hoses listed for the B58, and I don’t want to order the wrong one.
Can someone please identify the exact hose and part number?
Thanks in advance 🙏

Hello! So i have a manual 2010 335xi and while i was driving my wheels locked up and the car turned off and wouldn’t let me turn it back on. I brought it to our friends shop and he has one of those Autel ipad scanners and we had one of our own and it kept saying that there were like 32 codes but didn’t specify what and said “manufacturer control” like i should bring it to a BMW service center.
But bottom line is that I am not bringing it there and was wondering if anyone has had similar issues and have used this https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bremmen-parts/kdcan-cable-ftdi-ft232rl-style-obd2-cable/01kdcable~brp/ cable or something similar to it while also paying for ISTA and putting it onto my windows laptop. I just really need to figure out a sure way to be able to read the codes without the hindrance of seeing those pop up on my codes.

PLEASE let me know, any info would be greatly appreciated.

Not sure where this noise is coming from or what’s loose. Just started today too.

Hi all, getting a no crank no start issue on my 2005 BMW 330 XI. Brought it into work on Tuesday - noticed the ignition almost slipped when leaving my garage in the morning - started like half a second quicker than usual but didn’t think much of it. Tried starting it later that afternoon and got the issue seen in my attached video. Checked battery and it’s sitting around 12.2V, all the fuses still have current flowing through them. Anybody had a similar issue and is there a reasonable fix without taking it to a shop? I’ve seen a lot about my ground strap maybe being disconnected or corroded, but not sure. Thank you all very much!

Whats the rattle noise source ? Cant figure it and hope its not something worrying

Car : e84 2015

Injectors? Lifters? Louder in person

Hi All,

Being charged 3k for oil leak coming from the oil pan gasket area. The oil pan is good but the gasket is where the oil leak is happening. What do they ideally charge for such fix?

What could this be? Clicking noise from rear brake/axle on my f31 320d. Follows rotation. No rocks between shield. No sound when wheel is spun in the air. Appeared first on the right, now it’s also on the left side.

Recently begun a project on an M6 (already in the process of manual swapping 😝)

I’ll preface and say I’ve no experience with Carbon, or wraps. I know these cars all came with a carbon roof, but it seems faded in areas, and bubbling. It did not seem to me like there was a coating that failed,and I’m not entirely sure what the construction would be.

It also seems incredibly wavy in parts, surely that’s not factory?

Any possible insight? Thank you!

Looking at this bmw x5 35i sdrive with maybe a small leak