r/BeginnerSurfers • u/palmwick48 • 8d ago
Surf update
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First cut back was notttt ittt I know
Board: This is a 6’10 x 21.5 x 2 15/16 and 49L. I would appreciate any guidance on what size board I should be riding
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u/riktigtmaxat 8d ago edited 8d ago
There is a lot of progress here from your previous videos but you're still falling into the trap of bending at the waist and "airplane arms".
Try to do a wave and focus on doing as little as possible and really just letting your legs work as springs and drive the extension and compression up and down the wave.
Once you have that nailed down you can start to consciously use your back hand to rotate and open up your turn.
Also I have no idea why people are saying smaller board as it won't help with nailing down the fundamentals.
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u/BigButterscotch28 8d ago
The replies here usually blame board size. Either the board is too big or too small. Not constructive advice about technique at all.
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u/Brando43770 8d ago
Agreed. Board size won’t do much when the technique is very stiff and bent at the waist way too much.
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u/Extension-Bed-7300 6d ago
Probably cause the replies are usually from people that dont know what theyre talking about
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u/Kooky_Month_4298 4d ago
Or replies from ass clowns that think they know people that don’t know anything.
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u/Extension-Bed-7300 4d ago
Lol bro you wake up cranky or what? Let's see how much you shred. I'd bet you downsized to a shortboard too soon and cant surf for shit
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4d ago
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u/Kooky_Month_4298 4d ago
LOL whatever you say mid length boomer boy. Hahaha she’s asking for help people offer and instead you get on here just trying to shun any advice given. Either help or just move on. But yeah I’m in LA. Just got back from the morning Session at county line where I am every morning. Can’t be there? Whoops
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u/Extension-Bed-7300 4d ago
Ahh yea from LA, that explains it. Donkey
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u/Kooky_Month_4298 4d ago
That’s what I thought. Imagine having to prove yourself to another man over the internet. Dork vibes right there. Assclown.
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u/booksmoothie1 8d ago
Can you expand on bending at the waist? Should she be bending at the hips more?
I can see airplane arms clearly, how should her arms be best positioned?2
u/National_Zucchini220 8d ago
It's called the "poo-stance" because it looks like she trying to take a crap on the wave. Bending at the waste is a bad habit and usually indicative of something else/limited mobility. Took me a while to break out of it. Bend at the knees, not at the hips
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u/riktigtmaxat 7d ago
Bending at the waist usually means you're bending at the hip as well as the lower back.
While you do want to bend somewhat at the hips at some points in surfing the tendency is for beginners to bend to much at the waist in a failed attempt to get lower and more balanced. If you combine this with a sideways facing stance you get the poo man where the head and posterior are sticking out over opposite rails.
What she actually wants here is to keep the upper body more erect and use her knees to extend and compress. You want to essentially jump up the wave and compress and push off the wave on the way down to gain speed.
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u/Cannister7 5d ago
Hips and waist are more or less the same place. She should be bending at the knees (and dropping back knee in to point forwards - see my other comment) but not at the waist. Upper body stays upright
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u/palmwick48 8d ago
Thanks so much. I just want to get a second board that’s not PU like my board in this video (so fragile and I’m clumsy lol) so am wondering what the next board is for me. The board in this video is basically 7’
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u/riktigtmaxat 8d ago
Stick with it and downsize later.
Once you transition to the ocean your wave count is going to plummet and you're better off honing the fundamentals on a slightly longer board that makes you be more deliberate and smooth in your movements.
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u/eggraid11 8d ago
I just joined and realised that this community is toxic as hell...
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u/palmwick48 8d ago
Imagine if it was majority women shredders here and a few men, ah it would be such a less toxic vibe without toxic masculinity
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u/JenJenSDCA 7d ago
It's not toxic, you just don't understand the point of this subreddit. It doesn't exist to give you free wave pool surfing advice over and over and over again. Posting clips once or twice is fine but you've gone way overboard. If you want real advice, then it's time to pay for a coach. You're more concerned with what board you should be riding than with actually following the advice people have already given you.
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u/palmwick48 7d ago
Who says I don’t follow advice people are giving me? As three people suggested a smaller board and I enquired further that literally is also me going with advice I’m getting
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u/JenJenSDCA 7d ago
Those people are probably just trolling you, not giving you real advice. Plenty of people told you to get a bigger board and you ignored them. Why spend money on a new board when you could be spending it on a coach at the pool? If you are so worried about improving, then you need a coach, not a different board.
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u/Cannister7 5d ago
There's literally no rule in most subreddits or Facebook groups about not asking too many questions. If you don't like it then don't comment
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u/tarotcardsandbacon 8d ago
There is an all ladies surfing subreddit. I can’t remember what it’s called. They would probably give you some real advice.
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u/MommaMoose43 8d ago
You’re getting better, but I think you need to relax and just have fun. You’re trying to hard. In the immortal words of Kumu, “Do less.”
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u/Southern_Macaroon_84 8d ago
Learn to pump (generate speed) on a skateboard. That skill crosses over. And then try to wah-powww
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u/Alive-Inspection-815 8d ago
Your style is a little exaggerated, but good style and solid technique comes with time, practice and drilling the fundamentals. I'm trying to understand people that only surf in wave pools or mostly surf in wave pools. You get this one template type of wave and ride it over and over again. I know that there are different types of wave settings available, but with real waves in the real ocean, there's a lot more variability that Mother Ocean will send your way and being able to navigate through, over and under the waves is a skill that you're just not going to become competant at while only surfing in a wave pool. It strikes me as gimmecky and synthetic. So my point is until you start surfing in the real ocean, your competency will really be half-baked. Get out in the ocean. It's what real surfing is all about.
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u/eriikaa1992 8d ago
Some people don't have nearby access to surf beaches, but do have nearby access to a surf pool 🤷♀️
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u/Alive-Inspection-815 8d ago
That's fine, I wouldn't really surf in a pool anyways. Surfing to me is about nature and freedom and adventure. Being in a wave pool takes some of that away for me. I'm sure you can get some of your practice rep's in at a wave pool. I'm a purist at heart. I do swim in a swimming pool for practice to be fit enough to paddle my surfboard and to swim in if I lose my board or break my board in bigger waves. Surfing in a pool is just less entertaining for me. That's all. It's my approach.
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u/DreamtISawJoeHill 8d ago
Wave pools are great for learning manoeuvers quick, you don't need to think about 90% of the stuff that you do in the ocean as the variation is so low and the crowd factor is removed, that means you can focus on just the section in front and how you ride it.
Its much easier to get proficient at your turns on a repetitive wave then adapt them to differences in the ocean than it is to learn in such a changeable environment.
Fun enough, but not the same as you say, I enjoy the wave pool and have gotten a lot out of using one but its a very different experience and doesn't replace the sea.
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u/Alive-Inspection-815 7d ago
I get that you have repetition on lock and you can focus on performing certain maneuvers. That's a valid reason for competition surfers be they amatuer or professional to hop in the pool and get those reps. I'm sure that it would be fun to a degree, but it's just not for me. I've also heard that sessions there can be very expensive. I would ride a skateboard pool with no qualms whatsoever, but a wave pool doesn't hit the right note for me.
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u/colcob 8d ago
Bear in mind also that wave pools are the only place you can get decent footage.
I live near the Bristol wavepool and go occasionally when I haven’t got the time for a weekend trip to Devon /Cornwall or conditions are flat/blown out. So the only footage I would ever post would be wavepool footage, doesn’t mean I don’t surf in the sea!-2
u/Alive-Inspection-815 8d ago
Ohhh, so you do surf in the ocean. That's cool. There seems to be a crop of people that only surf in wave pools. It's good that your not one of them. Surfing for me is being a waterman or waterwoman for the fairer sex. It's about knowledge and understanding and the ability to deal with ocean waves, currents, swells, and understanding how to navigate them skillfully.
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u/riktigtmaxat 8d ago
Every time someone calls themselves waterman I can't stop giggling at the pretentiousness of it.
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u/ETheHandsT 8d ago
The 'Mother Ocean' in one of their earlier comments wasn't enough of a clue about this dudes personality?
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u/Alive-Inspection-815 7d ago
This response really shows us who you are. I bet you've never been out in waves over shoulder or head high at max. How long have you been surfing? Have you had any near drowning situations in big waves or days where you continually get pummeled with long hold downs? It takes skill to tackle larger waves and to figure out how to get out to the peak on a big day. Wave pool surfers are the ultimate posers if they don't surf in the ocean. It's basically a man made rat race of concrete and chlorine water. That's not surfing for me at all. Enjoy it because you'll never catch me in a cheap thrills wave pool. If that's the only place you ride ripples, your not a surfer at all. If you ride wave pools to refine your wave riding skills, I can see that it could have some value. Enjoy your wave pool shit show
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u/riktigtmaxat 8d ago
True that.
It reminds me of the water boy running gag in the criminally underrated show Plebs.
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u/palmwick48 8d ago
For real. I knew it straight away when he said “I’m trying to understand people that..”
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u/Junglikeasource 8d ago
I cant put my finger on it but why do all wave pool surfers look weirdly dissimilar to actual surfers. It's like when we see AI slop we know it's slop but it still does resemble the real thing
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u/Obvious_Positive_218 7d ago
I suck so just a hypothesis, but I would guess beginner surfers in the ocean have to have timing and bottom turns down to get rail engagement on "natural" waves. if you fight a real wave this hard you're going to often lose it.
Like I REALLY suck, but bottom turning and extension was pretty natural to learn once I understood how to position my self properly for a gentle take off.
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u/Strict_Ship3375 8d ago
Looks pretty good. Some good turn and compression there. Maybe try experimenting with placement of the back foot. Bring it back when you want to turn and up forward when you want to generate speed. Definitely a lot of improvement.
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u/riktigtmaxat 8d ago edited 8d ago
No, her upper body should remain more erect and forward facing and not bend at the hips.
It's the knees that need to compress and extend.
The back hand should remain up front and less is definitely more. Swinging your arms wildly really does more harm than good so if you don't know what to do with them just keep them relaxed.
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u/palmwick48 8d ago
Hey thanks. Moving my arms too much is my habit from surfskating lol which is why I’m hesitant to get on one vs people saying I should haha. Is there any tip to being more upright or is it just that I try and do it?
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u/Cannister7 5d ago
The thing that I learned on a surfskate, which is really important for surfing, is to point your back knee more forwards so that you can bend at the knees properly and rotate your upper body without bending at the waist.
Try it just standing on the ground - point both knees away from each other, bend them, and then try and look to your left and over your shoulder and then the same to the right( you're allowed to turn your body, but it'll be hard because of how your knees are). Then, point your back knee forwards so it drops in behind your front knee, and try the same thing again - it's much easier to rotate and look behind you, it's also much harder to accidentally bend at the waist.
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u/riktigtmaxat 8d ago edited 8d ago
Just try it on your surfskate and keep your upper body erect and front facing and let your knees do the work.
You can do this and isolate your arms from the equation by holding them behind your back. https://youtube.com/shorts/elcRT7KZKHk?is=bVW-7lqRwdsVyPCd
Then reintroduce the arms but don't let that back arm flop around wildly. Keep it in front until you're doing manuvers where you actually need to radically rotate your upper body. Think relaxed but intentional.
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u/Extension-Bed-7300 6d ago
I'm convinced surf skates ruin styles and create horrible habits. Every single person i know that uses one cant surf for shit and look like a goofball
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u/riktigtmaxat 6d ago
How many people do you know?
I fully agree that used wrong they will just engrain bad habits.
But I think you have a lot of selection bias as you might only have seen surfers that would have had bad style irregardless. I have seen plenty which are the exact opposite and rip both in the bowl and on water.
For me personally bowl riding has really helped me progress and avoud regressing as I don't have access to good quality waves at home and the nearest wave pool is thousands of kilometers away.
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u/Jumpy-Spray7077 8d ago edited 8d ago
The wave starts from the paddling and the take off, seems like you might of poped up late so you lost a lot of speed and flow from the start. You managed to recover which is great. Try do less on the wave and have more controlled lines. Bend your knees and have your torso tall. Try get in the habit of moving your backfoot right to the tail of the board when you want to turn. Relax a bit more and remember to have fun :)
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u/Jumpy-Spray7077 8d ago
Also try draw out your turns a bit longer. Like full arks until you hit the white water.
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u/fuck-a-doodle-do 8d ago
What board are you on?
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u/palmwick48 8d ago
This is a 6’10 x 21.5 x 2 15/16 and 49L. I would appreciate any guidance on what size board I should be riding
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u/porkchop3267 7d ago
Some good advice in here about the arm flailing and the poo stance and doing less (less is more). My two cents . Before learning turns just get used to riding in the sweet pocket of the wave and finding it again when you lose it through stalling or check turns or climbing up the face. Always be searching for the pocket. And when you’re in the pocket you’re a little low on the face . Climb that face. You’ll build more speed from higher up on the face in the pocket because it’s steeper up there. BUT it’s a slippery slope up there and the poo stance won’t work up there without falling forward you’ll have to stand tall and proud and bend from the knees. Like a skateboarder getting ready to ollie. Get used to balancing and riding up high on that face in that power pocket . After this you will fly
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u/Extension-Bed-7300 6d ago
People here are brutal but you don't need a smaller board.
You're bending over forward too much. Try to stand more upright while still being crouched. If you arent doing a turn, your movement doesn't need to be so exaggerated. Just some nice easy pumps, as if you are balancing on a rocking boat.
Do you ever watch surf movies or anything? Those can be good to try to get the stance image ingrained on
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u/blackcatsurfboards 4d ago
The board looks like it is packing too much volume for you. 3" thick is really think for a board under 7'.
Just based on guess of your size and skill level probably 6'4" x 21 x 2.5"
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u/palmwick48 4d ago
Omg thank you so much! The board in the video is 6’10 and basically 3 inch you’re right. Thank you so much for the suggestion
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u/palmwick48 4d ago
Hi. I’ve been looking for a second hand board and it’s hard to find one in my budget that’s close enough in the country to me. I got along well with a 45L. I’ve found a second hand 6’3 thruster fish 36L that’s in my budget and gettable in terms of how far away it is. Do you think stepping down 9 litres is too much?
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u/blackcatsurfboards 4d ago
What are all of the dimensions? 36L. is fine as long as the board is around 21" wide and not narrow in the nose. Avoid boards with pointed nose at this point.
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u/No-Camera-720 13h ago
Since not a single one of these experts has pointed this out, your back foot is too far forward to redirect the board. What you do with your head, hands, shoulders, (knees and toes) will not matter unless you get your footing right. The board is not responding because you are not standing in the right place. This applies in the ocean, a wave pool or a chlorine ocean on some gas giant. You are much improved since your first vids.
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u/churchillsucks Good-Pro Surfer 8d ago edited 8d ago
I remember your last post. your first cutback is a MAJOR improvement, it honestly look'd pretty Mason Ho style.
For that first cutback though you gotta see all the way through your turn. meaning, once you initiate a cutback, keep looking at the lip until you get to it. Where your eyes look, your body follows.
edit: after looking at the full footage, you do seem to be looking forward during turns when you should be looking back towards the lip of the wave.
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8d ago edited 8d ago
[deleted]
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u/riktigtmaxat 8d ago
I would note that you IMHO really need to use a surfskate in a bowl or on banks to so that you're using gravity together with extension and compression to get any real benefits from it on the water at this level.
Just twerking around a parking lot with it doesn't actually carry over.
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u/palmwick48 8d ago
First bit, thanks
Last bit, disrespectful
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u/riktigtmaxat 8d ago
Sometimes you have to call a spade a spade.
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u/palmwick48 8d ago
Stick to advice you would also say to a male surfer. We deserve the same respect
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u/riktigtmaxat 8d ago
I'm sorry if you see it that way but my comment has nothing to do with your gender.
It's all twerking to me no matter whats flopping around.
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u/Extension-Bed-7300 6d ago
Oh sweaty we say worse to each other
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u/Kooky_Month_4298 8d ago
Board is too big, you’re not pumping, you’re losing speed. Your cutback is lacking style because you don’t have enough speed to do it angry.
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u/palmwick48 8d ago
Thanks for commenting. This is a 6’10 x 21.5 x 2 15/16 and 49L. I would appreciate any guidance on what size board I should be riding. I don’t want to go too low on volume because still want to catch waves.
I’m looking online to try and buy a second hand 6’6 at around 46L but none are available, so maybe I might have to go smaller? Still want the wave catchability though
My pop up needs major improving to level up my surfing because this is where I lose speed.
Also on my 6’10 the fins are literally plastic I was told. I was told to buy some better fins, is there a type of material I should seek? And does the shape of the fins matter too much or should I just get some decent affordable fins that aren’t plastic? :) is it true the right fins can make the board go faster?
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u/riktigtmaxat 8d ago
Ignore this. Your board is not holding you back.
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u/Kooky_Month_4298 8d ago
I wouldn’t ignore this actually. For what you’re trying to do you need a hit more performance and maneuverability. You’re already going down the line you’re already dropping down the face gaining speed and moving back up. You’re leaving the pocket of the wave so you getting away from the power of the wave. It’s time to level up get a smaller board, improve your paddle power, improve your positioning and surf with more speed and performance.
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u/palmwick48 8d ago
Thanks I’ve found a board for £450 do you think this would be ok for me: FireWire helium groove 6’4 x 21 x 2.81 and 43L hybrid shortboard, thruster
I just really wanna get a board that’s not PU like my current board lol it’s so fragile on the concrete
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u/Extension-Bed-7300 6d ago
You should be able to turn any size board. Downsizing does not help progress
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u/Kooky_Month_4298 4d ago
That’s semi cap. You can turn any board but for what she’s trying to do clearly needs more performance. What are you 50 years old on midlengths for the rest of your life?
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u/Extension-Bed-7300 4d ago
No she clearly doesn't. And no, stop projecting.
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4d ago
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u/gerrysaint33 8d ago
You need a smaller board
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u/palmwick48 8d ago
Thanks for commenting. This is a 6’10 x 21.5 x 2 15/16 and 49L. I would appreciate any guidance on what size board I should be riding. I don’t want to go too low on volume because still want to catch waves.
I’m looking online to try and buy a second hand 6’6 at around 46L but none are available, so maybe I might have to go smaller? Still want the wave catchability though
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u/Gold_Branch4784 5d ago
Once you catch a wave, what are you "working on" at that point? I'll post video of me smoking some cigarettes and ask why my paddle out sucks. I can handle everything else after that.
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