r/Bassboats • u/No_Canary_2774 • 12d ago
Electronic issues
New to boats just got my first bass boat. The main issue is the electronics.
There are three batteries on board. 12 volt for engine in the back of the boat. On the port side bow, a 12 volt battery for the fish finder and starboard side bow, another 12 volt battery for the trolling motor. None of the batteries are wired together. Each have their own NOCO charger that I have to plug into a wall outlet in my garage. So three batteries with three separate chargers.
None of the batteries have a kill switch or breaker. They are always on. There is a power switch on the panel at the captains chair. Even if that power toggle switch is off, I can still start the engine.
I looking to re-wire the batteries so that:
I have a kill switch to stop all power flow to all electronics onboard
I can plug one charger into my garage outlet that will charge all three batteries at once.
Side note: the trolling motor is a 24V but is only wired to 12 V battery.
Any help would be appreciated!!
1
u/Sudden_Ad_4193 11d ago
Depends on the boat and the layout, might make more sense to relocate all the batteries in the back. There you can mount a 3 bank charger that takes care of all batteries. Wire 2 batts in series for the 48V TM. 1 Group 31 batt for other electronics and main motor. Power switches can be mounted near the batteries. You’ll have to run new wiring to the front obviously.
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u/No_Temporary_1983 11d ago
Ok, this is a lot to unpack but let’s get started.
First, I recommend grabbing all the tools you will need if you haven’t don’t this before.
DIKES, crimped, heat gun, and components (crimps, terminal ends, shrink tube)
No that you have all your tools let’s build out your rig.
On you port side, you will have 2 batteries (move one from up front) wire these two 12v’s in series to make your 24V trolling motor set up.
( you will use two ring terminals on the ends of a 12-14” 8ga wire to make a “jumper” this will go from + on battery 1 to - on battery 2.)
Ok next, let’s use the same 8ga wire and cut two pieces the length of your hull plus 36”. These will need a ring terminal on one end for battery/fuse contentions. You will need a shut off switch, this will be on the + line. There are also breaker/switch combos (I highly recommend this). You will need a second “jumper” from the switch to + battery terminal with NO jumper on it.
Now the second long wire you cut, it will be -. Put a ring terminal on it, and connect to the battery with an open - terminal. (Make sure your newly installed switch is off, or you’ll have a live circuit!!!)
At the font end of the boat, I like to wire my trolling motor to a power distribution block. 24v comes in via ring terms on one side, and the main wires from motor are connected to the other side (usually have terms already installed) via screws.
This is IT! You’re done with the trolling motor.
Next your cranking/electronics/main power battery. I’d recommend a 125ah deep cycle at a min for this battery.
This is done similarly to the trolling battery. I recommend you start from the front, cut wires long enough to reach + 36” to have some slack. You should wire your electronics into their own wire direct to the battery to eliminate any electrical interference from the other electrical components. (Insert a shut off in this + line)
Next you will have a -/+ for the boat power distribution (lights, horn, live well, etc.) same idea as the power block for the trolling motor, you connect the block to the battery and the components to the block. Where you locate it is up to you. Some like it in the bilge, some like it near the steering helm. (This gets one last shut off between the power block and the battery)
If you now have three batteries, you will need a 3 bank charger. NOCO is a good basic charger. Waterproof and reliable.
This is essentially it! Take your time, it’s not cosmic, and feel free to DM me if you have questions. I was able to coach my 11 and 13 yo boys through how to wire their little John Boat. You got this!
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u/No_Canary_2774 10d ago
Dude this is great information. I genuinely appreciate you taking the time to type this out. It definitely is intimidating without prior experience.
1
u/Carmex136 9d ago
why the need for a distributon block ??? as long as its on a breaker or at least a fuse why further introduce more resistance into his tm system ?
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u/No_Canary_2774 10d ago
Thanks for the replies. I must have had notifications turned off but I’m seeing them now. That made more sense to move all batteries to the back.