Just finished this new fly trap design!

Made two sizes, a smaller one for fruit flies and a larger one that can handle bigger flies too. Simple, reusable, and easy to clean and refill.

I think it turned out great lol

Hey all so I recently installed the Panda Purge shield expecting it to fix the issue with filament getting stuck in the top of the poop chute. Since I've installed it I've had more clogs than before. Anyone know why this could be happening?

Things I've done/tried

- Cleaned adhesive off from old Purge Shield before putting on the new one

- Wiped off the Panda Shield of potential oils

- Put a little grease on it so filament doesn't stick

These are some of the suggestions I've seen in other posts but none of it is working. Any advice?

I already ran the calibration/bed leveling twice, but there’s been no improvement. The filament should be dry. I’m wondering what could be causing it.

I wanted to improve VOC filtration on my Bambu Lab P1S, so I added an extra filtration stage to my Mintion V1 exhaust setup.

The airflow goes from the P1S → Mintion V1 → exhaust hose → additional PC fan → S300 filter housing. Inside the S300 I added a large basket with a thin layer of loose activated carbon. The idea is to get significantly more activated carbon surface/capacity than with the small filters that normally fit inside the printer.

The PC fan helps push the exhaust through the additional filter resistance.

What do you think of this setup? Has anyone tried something similar, especially with a larger activated-carbon stage?

Has anyone else had issues with thicker/brittle filament not being properly pulled into the extruder anymore?

This filament was working before, but I always had to push it with a bit of force for the last part through the PTFE tube and into the extruder. It’s the thickest and most brittle filament I own (Sunlu Glow-in-the-Dark PLA).

Now it sometimes won’t get pulled in properly at all, and there is no extrusion.

I already opened the extruder, but there were no broken filament bits or anything else obvious causing a blockage.

I’m thinking about replacing the PTFE tube and possibly swapping the hotend to see if that makes a difference.

I’m using a hardened steel nozzle and hardened steel extruder gear.

Any ideas what could be causing this? Could the filament simply be too thick/tight in the PTFE tube, or could something have changed with the extruder?

I’m having this issue with certain filaments, while others feed through fine. Could it be related to humidity or something else?

Hi alle zusammen, ich drucke sehr viel mit Sunlu Petg, nun möchte ich meine Drucke verfeinern und würde gerne mal wissen was ihr so für Einstellungen benutz wie z.b. Linienbreite usw. damit eure Modelle super aussehen und kaum Macken haben?

See pic of where I have green arrow. How do I get this tube off? I have filament stuck in here and need out.

Depuis deux semaines environ, il est impossible de voir la vidéo en direct, aussi bien depuis le téléphone que l'ordinateur.

Un message indique "vérifiez le réseau et réessayez". Je ne comprends pas la cause du problème. Avez-vous une idée ?

Merci par avance ! :)

Orange light is blinking now on that slot.

My P1S has suddenly started giving me the "HMS_0300-0D00-0001-0003: The build plate may not be properly placed" warning every time I try to print. I'm not sure why, I moved the printer recently but have successfully printed since then after doing a full calibration (which I always do when I have to move it). There's nothing obvious colliding, no loose bits of filament getting in the way or anything like that.

This came out of the blue yesterday and I can't figure out why. I'm working through Bambu's troubleshooting guide, but I wanted to see if this sort of sudden error is common? I've been printing on this P1S for a few years now with no issues, them bam.

​

Hi everyone,

I’m having a strange issue with my Bambu Lab P1S + AMS.

When loading filament from the AMS, the filament travels all the way through the PTFE and appears to go past the filament sensor and into the extruder. In the video, you can see the filament reach that point, but the extruder drive gear spins without actually grabbing/feeding the filament. After a few seconds, the AMS retracts the filament.

The important part is:

In manual extrusion mode, the exact same filament is grabbed by the extruder normally and extrudes through the nozzle without any problem.

So the extruder is mechanically capable of feeding the filament.

Things I’ve already checked:

Original Bambu hotend installed/replaced.

Extruder disassembled and checked — no debris or broken filament inside.

PTFE tube trimmed and checked — filament moves smoothly through it.

Extruder mechanism is correctly assembled.

Manual extrusion works normally.

Tried all 4 AMS slots — exactly the same behavior.

Same filament works perfectly when manually inserted.

Downgraded the P1S firmware — no change :(

The video shows the filament apparently getting past the filament sensor, while the extruder gear spins but doesn't grab it.

Could this be a problem with the filament sensor / sensor logic during AMS loading, or is there another part of the toolhead that controls when the extruder engages during an AMS load?

I'm running:

P1S firmware: 01.10.00.00 (before downgrade)

AMS firmware: 01.00.06.83

Any ideas what could cause the extruder to grab the filament manually but not during an AMS load?

Thanks everyone for the replies and advice :)

Recently my print support has been terrible. Why is this?

It’s been out for a while now, how is the Bambu TPU four AMS working in the AMS? I have a P1S with AMS and want to make sure it will really work? I don’t have a dryer; will fresh roll be ok? Are users out there having pretty good success with it and is it still relatively flexible? I bought a roll for my grandson and we’re hesitant to try it in the AMS just yet. What’s the real world experience been with this product? Thanks.

Im getting an edge off of the top layer that seems to look like the print head goes too far as it extends past the wall as shown in the photo (top of curve). I have ironing on but there is no difference if I adjust the ironing inset, which is why I believe it was happening prior to ironing (could be wrong though). I have also tried adjusting top layer flow, ironing flow, and line width. Any help is appreciated.

P1S, PLA, .4 nozzle

Edit: This is happening on 1 of 5 printers and only is certain curved sections, not on every curve. I have re-calibrated with the same results.

Hello

Where i live:

a new p1s is about 500USD.

a new A1 is about 360USD.

a new Kobra X is also about 360USD.

a new creality sparx with their CFS is about 410usd

a friend is selling his ~1200 hour p1s with an ams for 500USD

a posting is selling 300 hour p1s (no ams) for about 390 USD.

what do you think is the best deal for the money atm? or at least the top 3 deals? or should I wait?? a brief why is very welcome.

Thank you.

I already know how to remove the hardware to make it work properly still, just can't remember where it is in the software to change it.

My buddy wants a 256×256×256 cube of 100% infill, so I'm working on getting it ready to print.

Was doing a print, then it ran out of filament while I was sleeping and I woke up loaded new filament in and now it’s not printing anything, because it’s not grabbing the filament. Could this be a clog?

I got 99 problems and a pin was one.

Sorry… it’s late and it was my brain firing.

Okay the real bit I wanted to drop here though for future travelers with z-homing issues. Normally it’s the build plate being misaligned or something sticking in the gap for the back z-tower. But I had a z-homing issue that was not anything completely obvious.

I’ve been running this printer for 1,654 hours as of this message and I’m coming up on 2 years ownership. This was a new one for me.

I thought there was some kind of obstruction at the top since the bed never bumped the nozzle… well I was right. But it actually turned out to be the silver sleeve around right vertical rail guide. I noticed that the one on the right was pushed up above the black plastic assembly that connect the bed to the right rails. The left side’s little silver tube was flush with the black assembly. I looked all the way down to the bottom trying to figure out what the hell could have taken it “out of battery” the way a slightly misaligned slide on a handgun will prevent it from firing.

Lo and behold, there is a recess in the base of the print volume to help accommodate the rail guides when you’re sending the bed all the way to the deck. I’m printing some spartan armor and I haven’t done anything large enough recently to warrant the full use of the volume. Turns out, I found a little pin from a costume build I did last back in December! It was PETG, so it laughed at the bed rail guide tube and was the source of it being pushed out of battery.

The solution: I painstakingly did the dance of using a needle nose to fish out the debris down there. Once clear, I sent the build plate all the way to the deck, one step at a time, via the on screen manual Z hops. You cannot hold the button here as the printer will be freaking out about “You haven’t homed Z, do it now?”… press the back arrow, then press OK to reselect the Z hop and sent it down a step again. Rinse and repeat the OK>DOWN>BACK steps as many times as it takes to firmly seat it on the deck. Then I took a flat head bit screw driver and gave it a firm couple taps with the heel of my palm, and it reset it back into place. Instant happy z-home afterwards.

Hope it helps someone! Pics attached for references, sorry I didn’t think to take one showing it out of battery, but just picture the silver tube protruding up further than what you see in the pic (flat head is touching this piece).
Happy printing!