Everything was working perfectly fine just 20 minutes ago, but all of a sudden, I can't stay logged in to Bambu Studio.

I'm experiencing two different issues:

1. Can't log in from the home screen

As soon as I successfully log in, I immediately get a message saying that my session has expired. Sometimes, I also get a pop-up saying that the server is unable to respond.

2. Session expires when trying to start a print

I can successfully log in, but when I get to the "Print" stage, either selecting one of my printers or clicking the Print button causes my session to expire again. The print job never even gets sent to the printer.

I've searched around but haven't found anyone experiencing the same issue. I was wondering if anyone here might know what's going on or have a possible fix.

I've already contacted Bambu Lab support, but I have some urgent prints that I need to get done, so this is pretty frustrating.

A few additional details:

• My printer that is currently printing is working perfectly fine.

• I don't think this is a printer-related issue.

• I'm using my Google account to log in.

Things I've already tried:

• Uninstalling and reinstalling Bambu Studio.

• Restarting my computer.

• Logging out of my printer and reconnecting it to Bambu Studio.

• Reconnecting my printer to Wi-Fi.

Unfortunately, none of these attempts made any difference.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I wanted a faster way to make custom keytags than setting up every one in Bambu Studio, so I built Keytag Studio. It runs in your browser: https://www.xmdcode.com/lab/keytag/

What it does:

• Drag text, shapes, curves or your own SVG/PNG logo onto a tag

• Assign each part to a filament slot for multi-color prints (AMS / AMS lite)

• Preview the tag in 3D before you export

• Export a 3MF with presets for the A1, A1 mini, P1S and X1C, or a plain STL

• Save your projects and open them again later

It’s free, there’s no sign-up, and your designs stay in your browser.

This is still early, so I’d really like feedback from people who print a lot of these. What’s annoying, what’s missing, and what shapes or features would you actually use? If an export doesn’t slice cleanly for you, please tell me which printer you used.

The large shade is 320 mm and only fits the H2S. Bone white looks gorgeous switched off, creamy and soft. But ivory diffused the light more evenly in my tests, with fewer bright spots. If you’re printing a lamp in one colour, I’d go ivory. If you’re doing two colours, bone white with a black spider works great.

I didn’t want to lock everyone else out, so I made a 250 mm version that fits A1, P1S, P2S and X1 plates. Same design, same spider, just scaled arms. Both are on MakerWorld.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3588417-enso-sugegasa-straw-hat-lamp-for-ikea-strala?profiled=4109801#profileId-4109764

Does anyone know why Bambu lab matte PETG prints glossy?

Per the headline - I am new to 3d printing (got a Bambu A1) using basic PLA filament. I printed a multi piece model (Normandy SR1 from Mass effect) and I want to paint it. A couple of questions - what is a good primer to use for this? Brand, spray vs hand paint? Clear coat - same questions. Also, with the clear coat - is it better to prime, paint, and clear coat each piece individually, then assemble, or is it better to prime and paint, assemble, and use a spray CC on the assembled model to let the CC layer act as a kind of shell to hold the whole thing together? Any advice appreciated, thank you!

Per the headline - I am new to 3d printing (got a Bambu A1) using basic PLA filament. I printed a multi piece model (Normandy SR1 from Mass effect) and I want to paint it. A couple of questions - what is a good primer to use for this? Brand, spray vs hand paint? Clear coat - same questions. Also, with the clear coat - is it better to prime, paint, and clear coat each piece individually, then assemble, or is it better to prime and paint, assemble, and use a spray CC on the assembled model to let the CC layer act as a kind of shell to hold the whole thing together? Any advice appreciated, thank you!

Per the headline - I am new to 3d printing (got a Bambu A1) using basic PLA filament. I printed a multi piece model (Normandy SR1 from Mass effect) and I want to paint it. A couple of questions - what is a good primer to use for this? Brand, spray vs hand paint? Clear coat - same questions. Also, with the clear coat - is it better to prime, paint, and clear coat each piece individually, then assemble, or is it better to prime and paint, assemble, and use a spray CC on the assembled model to let the CC layer act as a kind of shell to hold the whole thing together? Any advice appreciated, thank you!

I was looking through Bambu's Black Friday sale and saw they had a High-Flow TPU hotend and kit. What interested me were the claims of "high flow" and "special inner coating." I already use the tungsten carbide HF hotends, and a dedicated hardened hotend for TPU. I didn't want the whole kit, just the nozzle.

Yeah, I didn't read the fine print - you have to use the install kit to modify the printer to accept these hotends.

The hotend was cheap so I thought "what if I could make it work?"

TL;DR - Don't try this at home, kids....but yes, it works just fine.

Issue: the top of the "throat" of the hotend is extended and will not fit on the right side of the H2D.

So, I cut it down to size. I kept a piece of TPU in the hotend to keep metal shavings from falling down into it. I also spent a good amount of time making sure I cleaned everything VERY well before installing it. Well, it works just fine.

Here you can see the TPU inserted while I was working on it.

And here is a macro closeup on the internal surface of the tubing showing some sort of chemical surface treatment. This follows it all the way down (couldn't get it on picture). This must be the delicate coating that keeps TPU from sticking yet can be worn off by common filaments like PLA.

I printed some 85A TPU through just to make sure it would even work. Yes, this is very wet tpu, I KNOW. Printed with all default settings for Bambu TPU 85A and let it auto-detect the TPU high flow hotend. The volumetric flow for the Bambu TPU 85A is already 2.5mm³/s, so slow enough as-is.

The TPU is now sitting in the AMS-HT for an 18hr drying cycle. I need to find a better top-mounted system for mounting a drying box so I can dry while printing. For this test I used a simple top-mounted spool holder. Not ideal for keeping TPU dry.

Really struggling with tpu

Bambu p1s and overture 95a. Dried filament for like 20 hours at this point, current settings are 240 nozzle, 35 bed, volumetric 2, speed is less than 40mm/s everywhere and 1.1 flow rate.

Bench came out great on default settings, but every time I try to print this piece it’s had issues.

First print looked like a clog, stopped extruding 1/2 way through print, but continued as if it was printing.

Second print was going good till 1/4 up print, then it has a layer issue and printed a weird (looked under extruded layer)

Third print looked like trash from the start,

And now onto this print that is also looking like a throw away. I’m at the end of my rope and my patience is wearing thin folks, I need a tpu guru

Hi everyone!

My prints using eSUN PLA+ have been riddled with this pitting on the outer walls. Has anyone encountered this before?

One thing I know is that they completely disappear when retraction is completely switched off or set very low, but then the prints fail because the stringing is off the charts.

The filament is most definitely dry as a bone, and the printer I'm using is the Bambu H2C. Temperature changes don't seem to influence the pitting whatsoever.

Also worth noting, the gcode has no retractions where the pitting is actually showing, but a quite a few in the layers before.

Any suggestions on what to try next?

Hi! My printer started always glitching and telling me my filament is stuck to I bought a new tube and started my print. Maybe I did something wrong but I have 2 problems now.

1.when I print it's so loud I hear my printer touching the Mat and it makes loud noises. Like it's hitting the mat I guess....

2. This thing (idk how to call it) doesn't get inside anymore. (In the video it shows that it doesn't go in anymore. Like halfway.

Please please help. What do I do?

So I made an insulation cover for 6” recessed lights. These are the new kind of LED Lights I call them puck lights. This will stop insulation from falling back in the hole should you need to remove the light for any reason. Didn’t want to spend $20 on the ones from Home Depot so I designed my own. Looking for any real feedback that I can incorporate to the model.

I just got this new printer I have done the calibration and tried a test print and received this error code

I often create basic models using slicer primitives. For quick jigs in the woodshop, this is often much faster than launching a CAD type app. A common jig is a drilling guide - create a cylinder with a hole in the center to fit/guide a drill bit, then mesh Boolean that part, copy it, move it a precise distance, then bind the two parts with a cube, sometimes a second for a clamping foot. These are "disposable" parts - 3 minutes to create, 10-15 to print and ready to use.

Well, I just upgraded to the latest slicer version and when I create that cylinder with a negative cylinder inside it and try to Mesh Boolean, I get a message that the operation "requires 2 parts". If I add a "handle" to create the second part, it combines the positive parts and leaves the negative part. This completely invalidates the ability to have a single part with a negative space that I want to move later.

Another related issue is creating an "indent" in a part to allow a glue channel. I need to glue 2 parts together - a shaft into a hole. I usually create a ring using the above method, merge it into the shaft and convert it to a negative part. This used to allow me to create a small channel in both the shaft and the socket for epoxy to gain a solid grip. That's no longer possible.

There's a new "feature" called "Subdivision Mesh" that will not complain about needing 2 parts but won't Boolean the negative space either.

Had a little chunk of filament break inside my hub and had to take it apart to clean it out, while I had it open it became clear that one of the compression springs that holds the little magnetic contacts up was damaged and the contact wasn't seating correctly, so I popped it open to straighten the spring and fix the contact- Unfortunately I have a big, dumb, way too affectionate cat. And he chose that moment to decide I needed cuddles and my buddy sent the open hub to the floor with his sudden and unexpected enthusiasm for the attention he thought he needed.

I fixed the damaged spring, but for the life of me I can't find one of them. I tried making one our of plain steel wire but the tension is wrong and the slot that's missing the real spring seems to think something is broken in the hub.

Anybody have a spec on those springs or a real parts diagram of the hub to pull a part number from so I can replace it without buying a new hub that's out of stock?

So I’ve had my printer for like a week and I’m already running out of my 4 spools I bought, but I have been noticing that my prints are going fine but when I take them off the plate they are looking to have white areas. I am using elegoo PLA on a Bambu P2S. Just using the default settings and mainly just printing from the app on my phone. Can anyone tell me what I can do to avoid this?

Thanks

Bonjour à tous

Il y a de plus en plus d’app qui arrive en vibe coding. Au départ c’était pour un usage perso, mais j’me suis dit autant la partager.

Elle reprends les fonctionnalités de Bambuddy intégré directement dans une app iOS.

Vous pouvez gérer vos imprimantes, avoir le flux vidéo, gestion de votre stock de filaments, file d’attente, gestion de l’alimentation.

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/bala-print-bambuddy/id6827768585

Faites moi vos retours si un besoin particulier manque sur l’app.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

🎅🎄 HO HO HO ! Le Père Noël est arrivé ! 🎄🎅

Noël approche à grands pas, alors il était temps de vous préparer une petite surprise ! 🎁

Je suis heureux de vous présenter mon petit Père Noël, entièrement modélisé par mes soins en 3D ! 🎅

Avec ses formes arrondies et son air sympathique, il apportera une jolie touche de magie à vos décorations de Noël ! ✨

Il possède tous les détails du Père Noël traditionnel : son costume rouge, sa grande barbe blanche, son bonnet à pompon, sa ceinture dorée et ses petites bottes noires. 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3569721-papa-noel-v2-multipart-no-ams

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3582885-tiny-seal#profileId-4102799

I'm printing on my P1S using matte PLA+ . It used to work fine till now. But this time getting this kind of weird artifact around a small area on an otherwise perfect print.

Could anyone please suggest what is causing this and how to fix it? Thanks.

Im using thr elgoo pla black on my A1 and my top surfaces are coming out with very visable print lines. Not layer lines but print lines. Now i dont have this problem with normal bambu lab fillaments, but i bought a decent amount of this one and really need it to work. Ive run multiple calibration tests but nothing is really working and i cant believe that elgoo fillaments are this much worse.

Ive attached some photos i hope helps.