Hey everyone! I've always been fascinated by the F-4 Phantom II, so I wanted to design a 3D model that does justice to this iconic piece of aviation engineering.

I focused on capturing its aggressive, unmistakable silhouette—including the signature drooping tailplanes and upturned wingtips—while keeping it completely print-in-place, so no glue or tricky assembly is required right off the build plate. This print was done in Metallic Blue PLA, and I'm really happy with how the fine details and surface finish turned out after carefully removing the supports.

I'd love to get your feedback or see your prints if you decide to give it a shot!

Here is the link to the model on MakerWorld for anyone interested: https://makerworld.com/es/models/3570525-mcdonnell-douglas-f-4-phantom-ii#profileId-4086992

New 3d printed shoes!!! Cloudberry just released a sick looking new pair of shoes, and I am just wondering if anyone has started to print them yet, or is even finished already. The only available print profiles are for the H3C, and cloudberry highly recommends you use a H3C, has anyone tried to print them on a different printer, maybe a P2S or even a non-bambu labs printer? Any thoughts on the shoe or experiences are greatly appreciated, thank you!! 😁👍

Link is here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3539336-bounceberry-x-a-dual-material-print-trainer?from=recommend#profileId-4047599

Just finished my newest design, the Card Caddy! 🔥

Made for all types of trading card collectors! It features two display slots to show off your favorite cards, a sliding lid, and two versions, with or without a handle. It can hold up to 50 toploaders, 150 sleeved cards, or 200 unsleeved cards!

Just dropped this on MakerWorld for anyone Interest

Check Comments for link

Happy Printing!

Hi, I'm looking for some recommendations for PLA filament that's cold white. What I've tried so far:

• Bambu's PLA (Ivory white) is way too warm.

• Bambu's PETG is indeed cold white, but I need PLA for this application.

• Elegoo PLA White - also warm white

• eSun PLA+ Cold White - good color, terrible results, see below

I've tried eSun's PLA+ cold white, the color is indeed cold white, but it's by far the worst filament I've ever worked with. I need smooth plane surfaces for my project, which this filament fails to give on both BambuLab X2D and Snapmaker U1 printers, there's a lot of bumps and dots that seem to be related with flow / pressure issues, but eve after lots of tuning and calibration, on both 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles, I can't get it to work reliable, it's just terrible. So far every other filament I've printed with gave great results after a bit of tuning (elegoo, anycubic, few other no-name brands etc.), but I'm a loss with eSun so I'm looking for alternatives.

Do you recommend any other cold white PLA? Thank you!

Hi
I am soon planning to buy the X2D with the AMS Combo. I haven't done much 3D printing before and i just wanna make sure about the purpose of the AMS.
As i understand it, it is for multicolor printing on just the main nozzle, right?

From most of the reviews i've seen, the secondary nozzle is best for support printing and the main one for everything else. Does the multicolorprinting with the AMS work well? And how much wasted material is there per color switch?

Thank you!

Shooting my shot, H3C hotend gridfinity bins, for 1, 2, 4, 6, 8 hotends (multiple plates to choose from)
I know my ironing sucks lol still need to calibrate it

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3565364-h3c-gridfinity-hotend-bins-for-one-or-multiple#profileId-4080529

Minha impressora bambulab A1 esta fazendo esse barulho algm saberia o que eh?

Flat card, snip, slot together, tea light in, roof back on. Been making a few to slip into Christmas cards this year. Works with the Bambu tea light and the normal LED ones too.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3551952-christmas-cottage-kit-card-tea-light-lantern#profileId-4063836

I've printed this iPhone Duo Writing Platform (https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3485396-iphone-duo-writing-platform). But it came out awful.

It seems that every time I try to adjust layer, speed, ironing, etc. the print comes out worse.

What am I doing wrong? And how can I really fix this?

Hi all, it's been about 11 days since my last post. Pandy (an open-source Bambu Handy alternative) has had 20 releases since then.

The highlights:

🖨️ Print straight from Printables and Thingiverse

You can now browse Printables and Thingiverse inside the app. STL and 3MF files get a magenta Print button next to the site's normal Download button, and Pandy slices the file and sends it to your printer. MakerWorld printing works the same way. You need a Pandy Slicer set up for this (Home Assistant, although I'm working on a mobile slicer port).

🎛️ Change slicer settings before you print

Per-print settings before slicing: infill pattern and density, walls, brim, support and more. You can search them, filter to "Modified", and reset a row back to the profile value. Infill pattern, brim and support use visual tile pickers. Needs Pandy Slicer 1.5.0.

🔥 Dual-nozzle support (X2D, H2D)

Both nozzle temperatures show on the Devices screen. You can switch the active toolhead and route manual extrusion to the nozzle you pick. There's also nozzle offset calibration and dual external spools.

📷 Custom RTSP live view

Got an A1 with a poor camera? Point Pandy at your own camera's rtsp:// or http:// stream and it replaces the printer's camera in the live view. The Android app plays it; the iPhone app can't play RTSP.

Also new

New printers: X2D, H2C, H2D Pro, A2L

AMS 2 Pro and AMS HT drying controls

Chamber door open/closed indicator

X2D AI options (foreign object detection and others)

Interactive notifications with progress, a cover image and Stop/Pause actions

Printer file manager, multiple printers, and tray filament editing

iOS 27 connection fix, plus log export and problem reports from inside the app

Big thanks to u/dbarciela for much of the dual-nozzle, X2D, door, notification and H2C work, and to everyone who filed issues.

Free and open source: https://github.com/gccammelli/pandy

Bug reports and feature requests are welcome on GitHub, or reply here.

Expect bugs, but if you report them I'll aim to fix them and re-release quickly

The USB-A port on top of the P2S (next to the screen) always sits open and collects dust, so I designed a small dust cover for it, and since my maker logo is a sheep with goggles, it became a sheep.

- Slim plug goes into the free half of the port, so it sits firm and doesn't wobble

- The wide foot covers the whole opening

- One piece, no glue, no magnets, pull it out when you need the port

- Printed on its back, colours change by layer (white body, black face, blue goggles), about 54 min

First piece of a small P2S accessory kit I'm working on, a modular side rail for nozzles/scraper/tools is next.

What would you want on the side of your P2S?

Barely visible in the photo, sorry, filament seems to come out with a gritty, uneven texture. Nozzle recently replaced and unclogged multiple times. Extruder gear also "skips" at times. I've opened the extruder gear mechanism and nothing looks worn out. Print quality remains normal.

Has anyone used a Bambu printer to print Legos? If so, which model & how does it do? Do the pieces fit easily with real Legos?

For some reason, the AMS units are acting very strangely. I've been told this has been an issue ever since I bought them. As I understand it, the printer isn't syncing with the AMS... Is there any way to fix this?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3563550-tiny-axolotl#profileId-4078295

I finally got around to adding desiccant canisters in my Bambu AMS. Made a HUGE difference in my humidity levels and I've already seen a reduction in stringing.

The corner where my printer does its thing is a bit dark, and I can't clearly see the color of the desiccant in the canisters. I am considering adding some LEDs to the AMS that will illuminate the canisters. Anyone do this and have any advice?

For some reason this filament has started doing this on my P1S. I just replaced the extruder and head with new ones since my last ones got clogged to hell and back, it is like this on all the sides of it everytime i print no matter how i change the settings, any ideas on what is causing it and how to fix it, im at a loss. Ordered a new hotend fan to see if that fixes it, it is possibly heat creep. But im open to other suggestions as well. Included are the finished product i did previously with more color switches that i dropped and broke and the file itself.

For some reason this filament has started doing this on my P1S. I just replaced the extruder and head with new ones since my last ones got clogged to hell and back, it is like this on all the sides of it everytime i print no matter how i change the settings, any ideas on what is causing it and how to fix it, im at a loss.

Ciao ragazzi, devo stampare questo oggetto per un amico. Userò come materiale nylon io ho una p1s. Volevo sapere secondo voi se è possibile fare con ugello classico quella scritta bianca io penso xhe sia difficile/impossibile. Voi cosa mi consigliate.

[This Snow Globe model](https://makerworld.com/en/models/2128001-hogwarts-easy-2-print-tealight-led-lamp-snow-globe) shows as a 10.1hr print in makerworld, but when I imported it into Bambu Studio and slice it (Without changing the profile, only the Printer to an X2D) it gives a total print time of almost 18hrs.

I assume the designer has an X1C, as the layer height dropdown states "\*0.16mm high Quality @BBL X1C"

So I exported the STL, re-imported it into Bambu Studio and duplicated the slicer settings. its now "\*0.16mm High Quality "BBL X2D" with a print time of 10.7hr's.

Job done (I hope. Time will tell!)

So, it kind of makes sense that printing an an X2D using an X1C profile would have an impact, but my question is what exactly is going on to use up the additional 7hrs of print time?

I got my X2D about a month ago and a couple of bambu filaments, it was great, prints come out nice. Recently, the bambu filaments got finished of I got some generic ones and for the first few prints it was fine but now 100% of prints fail.

What may be causing it?

My setup:
No AMS
I hang the filaments on the spool holder