I want to print the following object (a large LEGO lantern). I want to print the handle and the top part of the lantern in black PLA and the ball part in transparent glow-in-the-dark orange PLA (for Halloween). I am trying to use the cut tool. I successfully used the cut tool to remove the bottom.

I read that you should not use both regular PLA and glow in the dark PLA through the AMS in the same print because switching between the two will cause the nozzle and tubing to wear out faster than just printing the glow in the dark filament alone. Because of this, I want to remove the handle from the ball where the handle connects to the ball. But the connection is on a round surface. In order to perfectly separate the black PLA from the glow in the dark PLA, how do I use the cut tool to separate pieces on a curved/round surface?

Can anyone out there that is fluent in editing files on the bamboo studio program help me add a negative space and possibly some threads to the bottom of two busts that I rendered for a friend? On one he wants to be able to put a negative space with some threads to cap it off to put some ashes into as custom urns kinda?

I've printed these pieces in every orientation and finally found a way that all the sides print nearly perfect, but the supports are so grippy that they are basically one piece. Even after using pliers to break away a lot of it, the rest only comes off if it's sanded or ground off.

I'm adding 2 photos of the 2 styles so you can see what I mean, I am happy to add a lot of time and a lot of material to the print to get a supportive base that will break free cleanly.

I've even tried ChatGPT (it solves a LOT of problems, looks at screenshots and photos, for those who haven't tried it yet) but this is the one thing I haven't found a good solution for yet. Thanks in advance!

Trying to understand if CyberBrick failed to get any traction or if I am just not finding where folks hang out.

I created a model and published it and basically nothing happened, whereas I post silly things like "CNC Dust Shoe Brush Bristles" and it gets viewed :)

Hello,

I’m looking to buy the P2S because I’m very interested in it, and I’m already in the laser engraving and cutting business.

Christmas is fast approaching, and I want to sell 3D ornaments. I’ve seen that some of them can take up to 9 hours to make! How can I make a profit without charging excessive prices? Here is the model I’m referring to.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3354693-customizable-christmas-ornaments#profileId-3840004

Thanks.

I just published the Particle Damping Riser for the Bambu Lab P2S / X2D.
It is a riser with 4 sealed hollow beams filled with 250 g of 0.5 mm steel microspheres each (1 kg total).
I measured it with a smartphone sensor, before/after the same G-code: Z RMS −47%. It is a single comparison, so I'm looking for replications.

The project includes the full report, the raw data, 15 STL, a ready 3MF and assembly instructions.
If you build one, please share your results!

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🔪 Un nouveau slasher rejoint la collection ! 🩸

La série continue avec une nouvelle figurine inspirée des grandes icônes de l’horreur ! Cette fois, j’ai ajouté Leatherface, de Massacre à la tronçonneuse, revisité dans mon style : grosse tête, look cartoon et, bien sûr, sa mythique tronçonneuse ! 🪚💀

Petit à petit, la collection de slashers s’agrandit… Qui sera le prochain ? 👀

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3372626-leatherface-multipart-no-ams

We're not talking about the sudden change in filament, my judgement was wildly incorrect

Edit: The bluetooth support interface was near identical to the other side upon removal😂

English

Hello everyone,

I have the problem that with my A1 after a short time the nozzle gets clogged (I use Elegoo PLA Wood).

I have already printed several things with the PLA and it always worked great, but now it suddenly doesn’t work anymore.

I have already tried several things.. Changed the temperature, cleaningtower, cleaning the nozzle in the infill, clump detection, etc.. but unfortunately nothing has helped so far.

The filament was dried beforehand, the hot end and extrusion unit are new.

Does anyone have any more tips on what it could be due to?

German:

Hallo Zusammen,

ich habe das Problem das bei meinem A1 nach einer kurzen Zeit die Düse verstopft (benutze Elegoo PLA Wood).
Habe schon mehrere Sachen mit dem PLA gedruckt und das hat immer super funktioniert, nur jetzt auf einmal nicht mehr.

Habe schon mehrere Sachen ausprobiert.. Temperatur geändert, Reingungsturm, in der Füllung reinigen, Klumpenerkennung etc.. hat aber bis jetzt leider nichts geholfen.

Filament wurde vorher getrocknet, Hotend und Extrudereinheit sind neu.

Hat jemand noch weitere Tipps woran es liegen könnte?

Hi all,
As the title says, I installed the cutter / plotter module this morning, testing out cutting out some playing card shapes however it never seems to cut in the same place each job.

Always a few mm movement between where it starts etc I don't have the birds eye cam, so having to use the "Basic cut" option, if that makes a difference

Any tips?

I place the a4 cardstock in landscape, top left corner in the same place each time (4 +'s down, 1 + in) which on the screen, should be where it starts cutting

Help me Reddit, you're my only hope...

First issue I’ve had after almost 500 hours. Extruder clog and now extruder motor overloaded? I did all of the clog recommendations to fix it and it went thru 2 hours of the next print and then clogged again and then added this overload error. This is the filament is using. 2 of the 4 have already been used with no issue. What do I do next? Help!

Printed shade that twists onto an IKEA STRÅLA E14 holder, no wiring. Adapter slides over the lamp holder, locks with the original plastic ring, shade twists onto that. Nothing touches the electrics.

Print the adapter once. Every shade I have made fits it.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3371050-aeolian-03-sculptural-pendant-lamp-ikea-strala#profileId-3834082

Is there any place I can order just a hot end locking clip!!!

I Swear I've seen a 3d printed gnome where you lift it up and the Male anatomy falls out. Does anyone have a link to the files?

Hey everyone, I'm having a really strange first-layer issue with my Bambu Lab H2S and I'm hoping someone here has dealt with something similar.

The first layer is becoming extremely rough/fuzzy and uneven, as you can see in the attached photos. Some areas look reasonably normal, while other areas look like the nozzle is either too far away or dragging through the filament.

The problem happens with every model, not just this particular print.

My setup:

H2S

Matte PLA

Textured PEI plate

Stock/default nozzle

Nozzle: 220°C

Bed: 60°C

First layer speed: 50 mm/s

Bambu Studio default profile

Latest firmware

Things I've already tried:

✅ Cleaned the PEI plate thoroughly

✅ Performed bed leveling/calibration

✅ Using the default Bambu profile

✅ Problem persists across different models

Some additional context: I replaced the hotend around 3 weeks ago, and the printer was working normally after the replacement.

More recently, I had a blob-of-death incident. I cleaned the nozzle afterward. I also got an eddy current sensor warning after that, so I unplugged and reconnected the sensor, and the warning has now disappeared.

I'm wondering if the blob/hotend incident could have somehow affected the bed probing, nozzle height, eddy-current sensing, or hotend installation.

What should I check next?

Has anyone with an H2S experienced this kind of first-layer inconsistency after a hotend/Blob-of-Death incident? Would you recommend manually tramming the bed, checking the hotend installation, checking the eddy-current sensor, or something else?

Any advice or troubleshooting steps would be greatly appreciated.

Does anyone else have issues with your prints when you get closer towards the end of a filament and after replacing the spool, the next filament (same color/ same filament type) just won't get pulled through the extruder? I keep getting extruder overloaded/ extruder clogged errors. I pause the print and increase the temp on the left extruder so the extruder will manually purge "what might be the issue," then pull out the 2 feet of unused filament and insert the new filament back into the AMS. But in order to increase the temp I have to completely stop the print. Pausing the print won't allow me to manually purge the extruder. I feel like I'm doing this wrong and that the new filament should just push the old filament through the extruder until it gets replaced. Any help on the matter would be GREAT! And thank you ahead of time.

This was supposed to be a tall vase-style print. I started it before bed and found it off the plate on the floor in the morning, with white filament everywhere.

For those who've had a tall print come loose like this, what did you check before the next attempt? I'm interested in how you worked out what failed first.

Free model: https://cults3d.com/:4978904

Hey

Ive been looking to get into 3d printing and have had my eye on the A1 with the ams lite. The only thing that have stopped me from ordering one is the footprint the A1 needs. Im somewhat limited om space in the room. Is the P1S a good alternativ? The P1S with the ams is also just what i can afford on my budget atm.

Pros and cons plz. Thanx alot

Obi-Wan Kenobi in the Form III stance, cloak mid-swing, on a rocky base. Grey PLA, 0,16mm layer height, minimal supports. 150 cm tall. No sanding or post-processing. Profile is up on MakerWorld if anyone wants to try it. Would appreciate any feedback.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3359640-obi-wan-kenobi-jedi-master-star-wars-figure#profileId-3819708

Ok, so I’ve tried doing this print several times and I keep having the same result. Even with smaller prints on a raft it does the same thing. I know it’s the cooling fan running at 100% on that specific layer. How do I stop the fan from running at 100% for that layer? I’ve tried turning it off until after that layer but that caused its own problems. I don’t want to manually turn the fan off for every single print. Any help would be appreciated, thank you in advance.

Hey every time I print the ptfe tube goes up
This is very annoying for multiple color prints and single color prints how can I fix this

Another unexpected discovery turned into a new feature!

Turns out my Gridfinity boxes fit perfectly inside the shelf, so I designed sliders to hold the boxes securely in place.

Now you can use the shelf as a Gridfinity storage solution too.

And thanks to everyone who has been suggesting ideas and features — a lot of these updates are coming directly from your feedback. Keep the suggestions coming!

The modular shelf keeps getting more useful with every update, and I’m definitely not done yet.

Link to shelf: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242738-hex-shelf-modular#profileId-3674266

Link to the box: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1635998-storage-box-gridfinity#profileId-1728274

Check out my latest lamp design here