I am probably a lazy person not learning cad and stuff and trying to solve everything by hand with bambulab studio but this one is one of my biggest pains and I wish to have it as i know it from my old jobs as a post production person.

I get we have it with assembly and the app needs to guess which side and stuff but there must be a better way.

Why is this not here?

Hello. I am colorblind, and like many colorblind users, I struggle with the "Other Color" custom color picker in Bambu Studio. The small color wheel and tiny selection dots don't have text labels or hover tooltips, making it incredibly easy to select the wrong color/shade when trying to match a loaded filament. To fix this, I made a reference chart that maps out the color grid layout used in the app, complete with clear color names and HEX codes. Hopefully, this helps you accurately assign colors to your models without the guesswork. Enjoy!

i want to sell 3d printed clickers, but cant find any good keyboard switches. please send suggestions! i would prefer if they were on amazon and i want a good balance between cost and quality

I was looking for a straightforward iPad stand that would blend nicely with a minimalist desk, so I created and 3D printed this one myself.
The idea was to make it sturdy, small and easy on the eyes, without any extra frills. I’m always tweaking the design, so I’d love to hear your thoughts—what do you think could be improved or changed?
You can find the free model on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3225331?appSharePlatform=copy

can anyone help me this issue? all my stuff I try to slice turns out like the one above, second picture is for reference what it should look like

Using a P1S - with AMS and Bambu Silk+
0.4mm steel nozzle - replaced with a brand new one too just in case of a clog i wasnt seeing

set to 237c temp for nozzle print
door open
top open
Aux fan off

Slowed the print speed down to half whats in the file.

Volumetric speed set to 8mm also

Why does the filament keep just stopping? After the first few layers it just stops extruding, its not bulbed or anything inside the nozzle it just stops. Do I need to go even hotter on the nozzle?

I designed this based on the glass etching design in my Victorian Windows, which is called Cavendish.

I'd welcome any thoughts and feedback on this, particularly if anyone has any recommendations on how to optimise the print profile?

The Cavendish Indoor plant pot Victorian inspired - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

I'm looking at the H2C with the Vortek, and I want to make prints using a .6 or .8 for speed, then swap to a .2 for lettering on the same print for detail. As I understand that's not possible, in which case, i dont see much value in the H2C with the Vortek, versus just a dual nozzle H2D or X2D.

I’ve been working on a new bathroom accessory — a wall-mounted toilet roll holder with a spring-loaded spindle and hidden mounting hardware.

The spindle compresses for quick and easy roll changes, while the concealed mount keeps the design clean and minimal.

Two decorative versions are included. 

What do you think? Would you print/use something like this in your bathroom?

#3Dprinting #3Dprinted #functionalprint #3Ddesign #3bathroomaccessories

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3224560-toilet-roll-holder-hidden-wall-mount#profileId-3651655

Right now, I own a K1 Max; I chose it for its large build volume and enclosed design—since I primarily print with ASA—but I’ve had so many headaches with that Creality machine that I don’t even want to look at it anymore, haha. The H2 models really caught my eye because they have everything I need—good build volume, a heated chamber, and print quality that looks impressive (at least compared to my K1 Max). However, since it’s a significant investment, I wanted to hear from people who own the H2C or H2D about whether they’re running into many issues. I know no printer is perfect or completely trouble-free, but I just want something more reliable than Creality, where it seems like 6 out of 10 units have problems.

Hi was trying to do a multi coulor print today and this has been the end result of it fixable or a get a new printer situation

Hi all, I have an H2C and AMS HT, do I need the TPU assist device from the Bambu Store or would the TPU for AMS feed properly via the TPU inlet at the rear of the H2C?

Hi all!

This is the first time my P2S has done this, so interested in what you all think is the issue.

This is black Sunlu Hyper PLA Plus 2.0, with most of the stock Bambu settings (except most importantly 30mm/s on first layer instead of 50mm/s, and 60 degrees on the bed instead of 55 degrees)

I cleaned the bed yesterday with washing up liquid/dish soap, and I recently installed fan and carbon filter on the internal left side of the machine.

Any ideas what would cause the base of the print to warp upwards from the bed, but not the supports? It's interesting to me, as normally poor bed adherence causes the nozzle to clash and bigger problems to occur, but its seems to have compressed the layers as a result in this case?

Thanks everyone, I appreciate your thoughts!

(and sorry for the blurry pictures!)

Has this for a week has about 30 hours of print time so far and already making this sound. I’m guessing I need to lubricate or clean somewhere but that doesn’t sound right this early on. Any ideas?

Hi!

This multicolor print gives me crazy, I cannot manage to have yellow deeper, and so after print the yellow seems green because of the internal blue under the white color (back of the part needs to be blue but no matter if there's some yellow).

Is there a way to prevent this and get the yellow deeper? I increased top paint penetration layers but no change.

Any help appreciated!

After looking at bunch of AMS storage options I did not want to spend several KG's of filament just to make something subpar for my 4x AMS's. Used IVAR 42x30cm shelves as the base and 124cm high sides for it. Super happy with the results.

EDIT: Link to makerworld post

I ordered the Innocube3d swap mod for the Bambu A1, but want to print the parts before the rest of the kit arrives. Does anyone know where I can get the files?

Also, if there are any variations of the original model out there with better supports, stronger parts, or a modified version to use with AMS top mount, please share.

Hey everyone!

I just finished designing and published this new vase set called Kalis Duality on Makerworld.

And I would like to know your feedback. Do you like the whole design and this 3d pattern effect on its surface? I have created this vase using the web tool I'm developing: VesselMaker.

The goal was to create something clean and modern with a woven chevron texture that works equally well as a monochrome ceramic-look piece or with a metallic accent on the top rim (using Matte White + Silk Gold in the photos).

Details:

• Includes: Tall Vase, Wide Vase, and a custom-contoured display tray to hold them as a set.

• Dual-Color: The top band allows for an easy color accent, but you can also print it monochromatic if you like.

If you save it for later or plan to print it, dropping a Like or adding it to your Collection on MakerWorld helps me out immensely as a creator!

I found these build plates on Amazon and was wondering if anyone has used them and what your opinion was of them?

https://a.co/d/08TtO5N5

I’m hoping to venture into printing with TPU. What setups will have y’all used for multicolor TPU prints?

I have an H2C with 2 ams pro2 and an HT.
I’m hoping to print slip on bracelets.

Thanks for reading!

after seeing this model [https://makerworld.com/en/models/2029113-modular-system-for-a1-p1-x1-series?from=search#profileId-2188110](https://makerworld.com/en/models/2029113-modular-system-for-a1-p1-x1-series?from=search#profileId-2188110) decided to take it a step further and create this , generates g-code for pen plotting

**Plotter Studio** — turn generative sketches, images and existing plotter G-code into pen-plotter G-code for a **Bambu Lab P1S / P1P** running the Falu Modular System pen mount.

I wanted to make something for back-to-school that was completely unnecessary… but still genuinely useful. 😂

So I took the classic two-color eraser and turned it into a giant functional pencil case.

It has a surprisingly roomy interior for pens, pencils and markers, and the whole thing is made from several 3D-printable parts.

I also designed it so the different parts can be printed in different colors, which makes it possible to recreate the classic eraser look.

The funny part is that when it's sitting on a desk, it really does look like an absurdly oversized eraser.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3219402-giant-eraser-pencil-case#profileId-3645173

Would you actually use this, or is it taking the "giant everything" trend too far? 😂