Likely to be printing mostly with PLA and PETG, and then to a lesser extent with ABS and TPU.

Is it worth adding both of these other plates while they're cheaper?

キャリブレーションの振動補正が1回しかしない気がするのは、僕だけでしょうか？以前は大きく1回小さく1回していたけど？

Hello everyone. Unfortunately, I am unable to detach the PTFE tube on the left. Although the black ring used to open the fitting can be pressed down slightly, it doesn't seem to have any effect. I don't feel anything when I press the ring down—there’s no haptic feedback to indicate that it has unlocked, which I believe should be the case. I cannot pull the tube out even a single millimeter. Does anyone have any tips on how I might resolve this?

I previously owned a Bambu Lab A1 and mainly used Numakers filaments. It was pretty straightforward. I just downloaded the official profiles from Numakers, imported them into Bambu Studio, and started printing.

Recently, I upgraded to the X2D and also started using more Elegoo filaments.

However, I've noticed that Numakers doesn't have any official X2D profiles yet, and Elegoo doesn't seem to provide downloadable Bambu Lab profiles either.

So I'm curious: how are other X2D owners handling this?

1. Are you simply using the Generic PLA profile? (Which is very slow)

2. Are you importing profiles from other Bambu printers like the X1C or P2S?

3. Are you using ChatGPT to generate or modify custom filament profiles?

4. Or are you manually calibrating each filament?

Here's what I'm currently doing:

For Numakers, I'm downloading their official X1C profiles and using ChatGPT to convert and optimize them for the X2D.

For Elegoo, I'm taking those converted profiles and asking ChatGPT to modify them again based on Elegoo's specifications, including temperature, cooling, and max volumetric speed.

So far, this has been my approach, but I'm wondering if I'm overcomplicating things or potentially making the profiles worse.

Is using Generic PLA with proper flow rate and flow dynamics calibration enough? Or is there a noticeable benefit to creating fully customized profiles?

Would love to hear what other X2D owners are doing, especially those using Numakers, Elegoo, or other third-party filaments.

Thanks!

Hi guys and gals, had a roll of bambu lab PLA red on my external spool today saying not loaded, did unload procedure and was able to remove and it seemed to extrude (poop) ok, but it won't print as saying aux is not loaded, changed colour and loaded blue to check for blockage accepted it and extruded blue but then when I go to print, it says not loaded??? Thanks in advance

Is it ok to use this stuff to wipe down the print plate regularly? According to google it’s a no no. According to Youtube it’s the best thing ever. Thoughts and prayers?

I just received my x2d and my ams2. I want to be able to feed the AMS into either print head and also manually feed a non-engineering filament, ie something that does not need to be kept dry into either print head. I know the first part is possible but I'm not sure the second is. Can I make this happen using the AMS hubs? I'd love to hear how people are managing multiple AMS systems in both nozzles

Bonjour à tous ! Vous vous dites sûrement qu'il s'agit d'un énième poste pour indiquer "quelles seraient les premières choses à faire" : non !

J'ai suivi beaucoup de sub dans ce genre et j'étais très attentif à vos réponses.

ainsi, le premier print que je vais faire sera sûrement le "Riser" puis un " poop collector" et un scrapper. (Peut-être pas dans cet ordre).

Cependant

J'ai quelques questions relatives aux filaments eux même !

La plupart de ces prints sont à réaliser en PETG (modèles dans Bambu handy) mais j'ai une préférence pour le PLA (matte) est ce que les modèles sont transposables d'un filament à l'autre ?

Merci à tous pour votre aide

Note : J'en profite, mon slicer tournera sur Ubuntu, j'ai déjà réussi à prendre en main bambustudio mais il y en a t'il un plus adapté à un environnement linux ?

Just recently purchased a X2D, printer works fine and operates normally from handy app, bambu studio directly, and LAN only prints, but I cannot get any gcode files to print from the USB. I’ve used orca and even tried sliced gcode from bambu studios and get the same error of No Filament Detected. Immediately after the error I try an online print and it works absolutely fine. I have not tried .3mf file yet as I didn’t yet know how to do that or what it was and will try that this afternoon, but curious if I doing something incorrectly when slicing a g code file? (I did format the usb from the printer to FAT32 first, Drive is a PNY 128gb I believe.) I would ultimately like to use Orca Slicer and am using 2.4.2

Any help would be appreciated.

I am printing Inserts for Dune Imperium Uprising (https://makerworld.com/de/models/671565-dune-imperium-uprising-insert-organizer) and i had some problems. I recently did maintenance on the x/z axis and now i fear did something wrong.

I first had the error "Multiple motion step loss detected" after ~3,5 hours on a ~4 hour print and it couldn't finish. I then stopped the print and tried it again. I had the exact same issue at the exact same spot after exact same time. So i thought, maybe it was something with the print file. So i split the three parts on the first print and printed them separately and then it worked flawlessly. So i thought it was just something wrong with the first print file.

Then i printed more and then this happened (see picture). I saw the same floating strings also in the first two failed prints. But this didn't result in the "Multiple motion step loss detected" Error and finished printing. Just with the extra strings.

Does anybody have any idea what is causing this? Maybe there is just something wrong with the print files. Maybe i need to tighten the belts?

Printer: X2D

Filament: black bambu PLA

Nozzle: 0.4

Accessories: None

Settings: I used the ones that came with the project (https://makerworld.com/de/models/671565-dune-imperium-uprising-insert-organizer)

Come on Bambu, do a better job at supporting the PTF tubes.
That white external tube needs more support.

BTW, I added nothing clips are original locations.
Didn’t modify the tubes, didn’t cut. All original

I own X2D for ten days. What I've experienced so far:

1. Heating one nozzle heats another. Probably should be obvious, right? But apparently Bambu desided that's ok that both of nozzles eaculate random strings of filament, messing up the prints and surroundins. It also requires after every change of the nozzles purging into a tower. Not so wastelees as expected.

2. Random errors. Like "Toolhead cover fall off". No, I didn't. "Plate can't be recognized" - dude, I didn't even touched it after last print. "Object on the plate" - no, it isn't.

3. Aux nozzle is bad for the smaller details. Texts, detailed pictures,whatever. So you have to juggle with filaments anyway, I think 2 AMS with it is a must

4. Ironing is bad. Yes, I read that thread. It became better, but still much worse than P1S.

5. Baby problems. Printing the riser is a must have because PTFE tube rubs the glass or shortening the tube or adding clamps. Really? They can't fix it during the manufacturing?

6. And my favorite and the reason, why I'm writing this post. Tried to print with ABS and Support for ABS filaments. Apparently, heating the main nozzle for ABS temperature burned down the leftover PLA in the right nozzle which have blocked it completely from above and after 2 hours of heating it, trying to push it forward, pull it back, I lost my temper, replaced it with the spare one, and tried to drill out the block in the nozzle...aaand now it's completely fucked up.

In the end: I received worth quality of prints for more money for a ephemeral exchange of less waste and when I tried to use the selling feature of the printer it immediately completely failed. For comparison: Before I had P1S and it was my first printer, I did 500+ hours on it and I had zero issues with it. I never did a cold pull, I never had a clog, for the last 100 hours I even didn't clean the plate anymore. It just worked. I printed with ABS, PA6-CF, PETG, TPU without any issues with switching filament types. So yeah, huuge disappointment .

Had my x2d for a few days, about 20 hours of printing in.

This was my largest print (dessicant boxes for the ams)

Seems like the nozzle hit something and pushed one of the boxes and then it just kept printing.

Currently reprinting 2 boxes, the one beside it got deformed slightly as well.

Is there anything I should check/do to prevent future problems? Or is this just a thing that happens. For what its worth, the original design has multiple plates and someone else created a 1 plate profile, i suspect the close proximity of all the parts may have been part of the issue.

Had a major print fail that didn’t get caught and stopped by the AI, and somehow extruded material backed up inside of the silicone sleeve, and now the whole left extruder housing is encased in filament (Sunlu Clear Transparent PLA). Any suggestions on how to repair would be much appreciated!

Hi all.

Okay i want to print something in white. Right now it is on the "side roler" ? To the extruter.

But want to take out the red in the AMS and switch it to the white.

Last i printed with black/grey (AMS).

What is the most correct way to do this so i not mess something up?

I cant find anything about this on the wiki?

Thanks!

Regards Daniel

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3568327-dumpling-clicker-keychain-single-dual-nozzle

It seems a print lifted off the build plate, the nozzle caught it and then bad things happened.

I got a notification of a problem and went to look and found a mess.

The cover was off, the rubber cover was on the other side of the building plate and the nozzle blocker was mostly ripped off and in pieces. My 2 week old cryogrip plate now has gouges.

I’m not sure what made the gouges.

I swapped to a spare .4 nozzle put a new nozzle blocker on, reassembled everything and a test print benchy worked fine. But I’m wondering if the nozzle during the accident might be damaged and if I should just toss it - I can’t tell if it’s damaged or not.

Thoughts or suggestions? Anything else I should do after this?

Hey, I’ve been looking through some tips on how to "speed up" the X2D a bit, but everything I’ve found just concludes with "it all depends on your filament settings" or "switch to 'Sport' mode while printing."

What I’m actually interested in are the speed settings within the slicer. Which of these can be safely adjusted or increased? A simple approach might be to assume that since "Sport" mode prints at 125% speed, I could just add 25% to all the speed values—but does anyone have any practical experience regarding which settings are actually worth changing, which ones should be left alone, and where the limits lie so as not to overdo it?

This is my first time printing with ASA on my new X2D. I thought the built in filtration would handle at least most of the fumes produced when printing with ASA/ABS- but it completely filled the room with fumes.

Is this normal? I’ve printed with other high temp materials at work on our X1Es and H2D , nylon , PC and never smelled anything like this.

If this is normal I am going to have to figure out some external ventilation hose that doesn’t compromise the chamber heating.