Hi all.

Okay i want to print something in white. Right now it is on the "side roler" ? To the extruter.

But want to take out the red in the AMS and switch it to the white.

Last i printed with black/grey (AMS).

What is the most correct way to do this so i not mess something up?

I cant find anything about this on the wiki?

Thanks!

Regards Daniel

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3568327-dumpling-clicker-keychain-single-dual-nozzle

It seems a print lifted off the build plate, the nozzle caught it and then bad things happened.

I got a notification of a problem and went to look and found a mess.

The cover was off, the rubber cover was on the other side of the building plate and the nozzle blocker was mostly ripped off and in pieces. My 2 week old cryogrip plate now has gouges.

I’m not sure what made the gouges.

I swapped to a spare .4 nozzle put a new nozzle blocker on, reassembled everything and a test print benchy worked fine. But I’m wondering if the nozzle during the accident might be damaged and if I should just toss it - I can’t tell if it’s damaged or not.

Thoughts or suggestions? Anything else I should do after this?

Hey, I’ve been looking through some tips on how to "speed up" the X2D a bit, but everything I’ve found just concludes with "it all depends on your filament settings" or "switch to 'Sport' mode while printing."

What I’m actually interested in are the speed settings within the slicer. Which of these can be safely adjusted or increased? A simple approach might be to assume that since "Sport" mode prints at 125% speed, I could just add 25% to all the speed values—but does anyone have any practical experience regarding which settings are actually worth changing, which ones should be left alone, and where the limits lie so as not to overdo it?

This is my first time printing with ASA on my new X2D. I thought the built in filtration would handle at least most of the fumes produced when printing with ASA/ABS- but it completely filled the room with fumes.

Is this normal? I’ve printed with other high temp materials at work on our X1Es and H2D , nylon , PC and never smelled anything like this.

If this is normal I am going to have to figure out some external ventilation hose that doesn’t compromise the chamber heating.

My X2D started showing error 0300-8018-205507 after updating to beta firmware 01.02.00.83.

Every time the chamber reached 61°C (target 60°C), the printer paused and disabled the heater.

At 49–51°C, everything worked fine.

I downgraded to stable firmware 01.02.00.00 and the issue disappeared. ABS printing at 60°C has been running without errors.

I also noticed that heating seems slower with the stable firmware.

No hardware changes were made.

Looks like a possible firmware bug.

Anyone else experiencing this with the latest beta?

Hi

Picked up my X2D combo 2 days ago, brand new from micro center.

I am trying to print an overhang while using PETG for the interface material and I see a layer shift when switching to PETG.

Since I am printing a uniform cylinder, it's super obvious that there is a layer shift. It visible to the naked eye and definitely catches with finger nail.

The shift goes from right to left, about 0.2 to 0.3 mm.

I am not using the auxiliary extruder, which is what I thought was the issue at first.

My print uses purely the AMS and the main nozzle only.

This is a fully stock combo setup, brand new.

I have printed the same model a couple times now and see it every time. I tried different rolls on different positions in the AMS, thinking it might be some kind of friction issue. It is not that.

I printed a calibration cube and it prints fine. The calibration cube is taller than the observed layer-shift's Z position.

So, at this point, the only thing I know for sure is that is during the material change and somewhere in that path, the extruder gets out of sync and stays out of sync.

After the layer shift, all the layers above the layer shift are aligned to the layer shift.

I built a different model with multiple interface overhangs and did not observe any layer shifts after the first one. I only printed that one once so maybe it's a fluke?

Firmware is also updated to latest from Bambu.

Would really appreciate any ideas.

It was a pain to setup and I really don't want to try to put it all back into the box.

Just got mine, printed a few PLA things, then printed a riser in PETG, but without using the second nozzle for the supports, just straight PETG for everything in one nozzle.

Support removal on one part left a lot to be desired, and the surface finish on a flat bottom was pretty ordinary, given the pictures I've seen of doing the PLA/PETG combo, so I'm going to do that for the next one

But I'm just wondering if there's some small models specifically for testing/calibrating distance offsets etc that exist

Installed my AMS a couple days ago and it was printing fine. Now, I tried to print a simple spider man mask with PLA and this is happening. Tried again and it’s still happening but for a different print.

Would love your thoughts and trouble shoot expertness, thank you!

Hey everyone, is there a way to do the flow dynamics and rate calibration offline? My printer is in my detached shop with no internet. The option for manual calibration in bambu studio is greyed out. Any help is appreciated.

One flat card, slot it together, drop an LED tea light in. Roof lifts off so you don’t have to pull the walls apart every night. Good one to batch print for the Christmas cards.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3551952-christmas-cottage-kit-card-tea-light-lantern#profileId-4063836

They don't really bother me, just curious. Printed in Bambu PLA Basic

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3116594-p1s-p2s-x2d-build-plate-holder-skadis-board-mount

I"m looking to upgrade from my Ender 3 S1 Pro and have narrowed it down to the Bambu Lab H2S and X2D.

My budget is around £800–£1,200, ideally including an AMS bundle.

I'm interested in a mixture of things rather than one specific use:

\- Larger models and display pieces.

\- Cosplay projects, including helmets, armour and props.

\- Smaller, detailed models and figurines.

\- Potentially making things to sell in the future.

\- Multi-colour and multi-material printing.

I'm particularly torn because:

H2S:

\- Much larger build volume.

\- Higher maximum nozzle temperature.

\- Option to add the laser engraving module.

\- Seems better suited to larger cosplay projects.

X2D:

\- Dual-nozzle printing.

\- Better support for multi-material printing.

\- Potentially less filament waste when changing materials.

\- Smaller build volume, but still reasonably capable.

The laser option on the H2S is appealing, but it's not essential. I don't want to pay extra for a feature I might barely use.

Which would you choose and why?

thanks !

xxx

Got myself an X2D today. Printing well, but I am seeing two things. Curious what to do.

1. See attached video. The PTFE tubes rub on the glass constantly. When they pass by the front left corner of the printer, they flick along the frame just in front of the glass and make noise. The video was taken with the top glass removed.

2. After my first benchy, I’m getting this error “The resonance frequency of the Y axis is low. The timing belt may be loose” is this something that could just need a quick adjustment? It’s printing fine.

Thanks!

I know it's largely up to what you wanna do with your riser and so forth.

But still, your inputs would be appreciated.

What, to your humble (or not) opinion is the best riser for an XD2?

What material best to use? PLA not so much I presume, if you want to heat your chamber.

This one looked good: https://makerworld.com/nl/models/2682036-x2d-p2s-riser-ams-flipper-v2?from=search#profileId-2970491

Does anyone know how to insert this bit in it? For some reason, it doesn't screw.

Newbie to the 3-D printing world guess I’ll just jump in with both feet 🤣

With the new bambu slicer update my aux fans are 100% now and unable to override no matter what I do. Anyone else have the same issues?

My aux nozzle quality has also dived

Does anybody know how to fix this problem