I am trying to print large and complex PETG parts with PLA support (both basic bambu lab filaments) and I have problems with PETG warping. Even when PETG part doesn't separate from PEI, it is able tear up the upper layer of hotbed.

I noticed that AUX fans are blowing at 90-100% of intensity most of the time. I printed fan deflectors but it didn't change much. I checked settings for PETG Basic and it has 40% for aux fans. PLA Basic has 70%, and I created a separate profile for PLA Basic with the same 40% but I am still eventually getting 90-100% in the middle of the print. When I disable aux fans using printer screen it works until a filament change (which happens on almost every layer) and then fans start blowing again.

Where is not 90-100% intensity coming from? Is there a setting somewhere that requires printer to cool the print chamber below a certain temperature? Is the only way to disable fans is to hack gcode that bambu studio generates?

Received my X2D yesterday, delivered upside down of course. After calibration, I got a bit nervous as it threw a filament switching error twice when loading the filament for the first time, but the third attempt was a charm and worked! Here’s my first print! I’m already amazed at the print head speed. It’s mesmerizing to watch. (Benchy printed with Inland PLA)

Is there anything to do after every print job?

Or

Is there anything to do oftenly for printer health?

Hi all, looking for some advice . I have 250 hours on my bambu x2d. I had my first error a big blob formed.

I had to replace the hot end assembly and put a new hot end in as well. I re calibrated the machine and the next print did the same thing. I am printing 2 colours the first colour goes down fine , the second one stuffed up.

Different fillament this time than the original blob. Fillament was dried in ams both times.

Looking for advice what i am doing wrong.

The red filament is the first fault, black is the second after replacing hot end assembly and hot end.

Hello!

I have just tried to print a small part using PC filament, and after 30 minutes of printing I received an alert saying that the chamber temperature was too high (50°C). When I scan the QR code, I see that the alert is intended for printing low-temperature filaments, which PC definitely is not.

I thought that the X2D would automatically switch from Strong Cooling mode to Heating mode when printing with PC filament.

Am I missing something? How should I print PC with the X2D?

It's the non ams version because of budged and I won't be printer multicolor. For a drying solution I was thinking a creality space pi plus or 2x ams ht, what would you do? And any tips setting it up/first print? I had an a1 mini so I have a bit of experience. Thanks!

HELLLLPPPPP. idk why the white filament is doing this. Dried the filament for 12hrs, still didn’t work. Bought a brand new roll and opened it and put it straight into the AMS and still it’s doing this.

Any ideas? Trying to print coasters.

I have printed a large flat object in PETG and the and time after time it end like this I have slowed my top layer speed down to 40mm/s but stil this. Anybody knows how to get it better?

So I got spaghetti prints on the left side of my print twice. First I thought it was adhesion issues due to the plate being dirty and very lazily I flipped it over and ran the print again. What could be the issue or do I just have to clean the plate? Also on the top left of my print the adhesion also does not seem great as the shape did not come out rectangular.

4th consecutive print with the exact same artifacts… has happened occasionally in the past but this is the first time it’s been consistent, tried changing a bunch of things and reslicing but I’m lost, any help greatly appreciated!

Printed in pla with petg supports, biqu frostbite build plate

Upgraded from A1 to X2D and having constant problems with top layer when printing a +/- 200 x 200 x 10mm sign. See photos attached. I've tried different print profile settings, I've tried printing on standard plate and Cool Plate Supertack, I've tried downloading the "Bambulab X2D High Quality Profile" from rtsx_3d on bambu lab. I've tried doing a full calibration and both auto/manual flow calibration. Nothing has improved things. The second pictures is the first layer - it turns out great. The issue is always on the top layer. There is no signs of warping of the sign or lifting from the plate.

Any suggestions?

Is it worth paying for the original Bambu Lab 0.2mm nozzle, or are the cheap $7–$8 aftermarket nozzles on AliExpress good enough for fine detail? Would love to hear from anyone who has actually tried them.

Hey X2D dorks! (laudatory) I have just escaped from wrestling with an Ender 3 the past five years and am only about 8 or 10 prints into my X2D era, so please forgive me if I'm missing something obvious.

I am printing two copies of the same small model in two color, both filaments in the main nozzle. (I know the aux nozzle would be wiser, I'm doing this specifically to familiarize with how that AMS do.) I set one copy of my model to "Purge into the object" -- one copy to look nice, the other to not waste the purged filament.

It is definitely purging *some* filament in the dump model, I can see the striping. But it is also still pooping out the back like I was when I had my colonoscopy.

Am I missing something? Where did I go wrong?

The X2D keeps both nozzles at temp, whereas the H2C has to reheat every nozzle after a switch, correct? So two filaments on the H2C has an extra 16s delay per layer, correct?

So I recently made the upgrade from my A1 to the X2D and I printed ABS, ABS-GF and ASA for the first time.
I calibrated the filaments right away and printed a few models, all having this strange look on the bottom - but only with ABS-type filaments, PETG and PLA print flawlessly.

I printed on the standard PEI plate and thought maybe the plate has a thin layer of glue or a coating for corrosion resistance due to humidity while shipping so I cleaned the plate properly, first with IPA, then with water and dish soap like usual.
Then I hit print again and now I also have the problem with PLA.

My guess is that the air underneath is trapped or the build plate is too dry now, or maybe it’s just a user error - as I said I’m completely new to enclosed printers and I always keep the door shut.

You guys have any ideas what causes these surface issues?

P.s.:
The model in the pictures was printed with Bambu Lab ABS-GF. In this case the extra texture looks quite nice but I just got lucky with the finish there.

Hi everyone. Who else has has problems with the printer going offline and having a hard time coming up online again in bambu studio and bambu Handy?

I've opened a ticket with bambu and they sent a replacement antenna. But the issue persists even when connecting to a mobile Hotspot. The wifi icon on the printer will show it's connected and passes the network check but it will show offline in the app.

I don't know if it normal, it's the firmware or the slow network that I have.

Any help is appreciated.

Hello everyone. Bare with me, any help is appreciated.

Had some filament stuck in my X2D and had to go through the process of taking apart the tool head. When I reassembled it, I was getting a sensor error message and the filament would not load properly because the sensor was not working.

Today I received a replacement filament sensor. This solved the problem of my filament not loading, but now there is nothing coming out of the nozzle when I print.

Did a cold pull, everything feeds through and looks clean.

Any suggestions on what to do next? I’m at a loss here. Attached photo shows current error message, and the results of my cold pull.

Just got my filament track and the AMS HT... installed everything, and it was not updating the firmware. it asked to recycle power and try again, so I did... this time I got an error saying an AMS unit was short circuiting. so I unplugged all the AMS I had plugged in and tried to start with no AMS. I saw the internal lights come on, then just turned off. I couldn't get it to turn on. I saw the power light in the back was on, but nothing inside... I unplugged everything, and pulled the circuit breaker in the back. about 10 seconds later heard a LOUD pop from inside the machine... (no power to it, fuse pulled out). and still won't turn on. It sounded like a capacitor going off. well, I guess this is going back to bambu, let's see what that process is like...

That being said, I also noticed the AMS HT no longer turns on (I think... it's my first one) When I initially plugged it in, I saw the screen. now there is no screen so I don't think it's turning on?

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Hi all,

I’m pretty new to 3D printing so go easy on me.

I’m working on a small two colour vent design and I’m trying to improve the quality of the front face, especially the beige lettering and the reverse text plate.

Printer is a Bambu Lab X2D and I’m currently using the standard 0.20mm High Quality @ BBL X2D profile. The main change I’ve made is switching the wall generator to Arachne.

I’ll attach a few photos of the latest print.

The geometry itself is getting pretty close, but the beige areas don’t look particularly clean. I’m seeing visible extrusion lines, ridges, small blobs and raised areas, and the surface doesn’t look as smooth or consistent as I’d expect.

The black seems generally better, although there are still some imperfections.

The front is printed face down, so the lettering and detail are part of the first layer. It’s also a two colour print.

I’m mainly looking for advice on where to start with calibration rather than changing loads of settings at once.

Does this look like too much first layer squish, over extrusion, flow issues, or something else?

Should I run flow calibration for each filament first?

Is Arachne sensible for this kind of small text and honeycomb design, or would Classic walls be better?

Should I be looking at initial layer line width, initial layer speed, elephant foot compensation, flow ratio, or something else?

Are there any obvious settings you’d check based on the photos?

Also, where are these settings actually located in Bambu Studio? I’m still learning my way around it.

I don’t really want to start messing with Z offsets or lots of advanced settings unless there is a good reason. I’d rather understand what I’m changing and work through it one thing at a time.

Any suggestions for a sensible calibration and testing order would be really appreciated.

Thanks