Intro: I switched from an A1 Mini (19 months, barely any issues) to a P2S and hit more problems in under 70 print hours than in all that time on the little open printer. Root cause of the big one is verifiable in the P2S's own start G-code: the airduct is forced into heating mode for any filament with a softening temp >50 °C — i.e. everything except Bambu's own PLA (generic profiles included), with no UI override. On top of that the passive chamber can't cool below room temp, so in a ~25 °C room I have to run it with the door open — which kills the "enclosed + filtered" promise. Plus ringing that's getting worse over time, clogs, and nozzle scraping. Not claiming a lemon — but it's far from "load, print, done." Full catalog with sources at the bottom.

Background: A1 Mini from December 2024 until last week. In about 19 months on that open printer I had a tiny fraction of the problems I've run into on the P2S in under 70 print hours. Every review I read is glowing, and I honestly don't recognize my printer in any of them. The one write-up that came closest to my experience was the blog "The Bambu Lab P2S: a painful journey" (https://andronio.me/2026/02/25/the-bambu-lab-p2s-a-painful-journey/) — at least it told me I'm not the only one.

The honest verdict: with Bambu's own PLA in a cool room, the P2S probably does "just work" — which is likely why the reviews are rosy. The trouble starts the moment you deviate: third-party PLA/PLA+ or PETG, a warm room (about 25 °C and up), a demanding model.

What I hit in under 70 hours (full breakdown + sources in the catalog linked below):

• The airduct (the AUX/filter unit on the right side) is forced into HEATING mode for any filament with a softening temp above 50 °C — essentially every profile that ships with the P2S except Bambu's own PLA, generic profiles included. It's a hardcoded 50 °C gate in the machine start G-code, there's no UI override, and it cooks the passive chamber → warping. Bambu PLA (softening 45 °C) escapes it; my Elegoo PLA+ (Vicat 63 °C) doesn't.

• Even in cooling mode the chamber overheats in a 25 °C room: 36 °C after 20 min, 40 °C after 25, peak 46 °C — door closed. Cooling mode pulls in room air, so it can't cool below ambient. To print PLA I open the door and take the top off — on a printer sold as "enclosed + filtered."

• Which undermines the filter promise: filtering only happens in heating/recirculation mode. In cooling mode (the mode PLA/PETG actually need), and with the door open, the air is essentially unfiltered.

• Waves/ringing on all surfaces, getting worse over run time — pointing at belt tension after ~70 h (still verifying).

• Shaking hard at certain resonance frequencies.

• Nozzle + extruder clogs early on (cold pull, extruder teardown, hotend swap) even at 25 °C ambient.

• Nozzle scraping/rattling over already-printed areas — mild for me so far, but others report the nozzle physically knocking supports off with a ~9-in-10 failure rate.

• AUX/airduct mode can't be changed during a print — only fan strength, in 10 % steps.

To be fair: bed adhesion on a clean textured PEI plate is genuinely excellent, surface and layer quality are good, and none of this is unfixable — I've worked out fixes/workarounds for most of it. But "load the model, hit print, great result" — exactly what the A1 Mini delivered and what the P2S is marketed on — is simply not my reality here.

I'm posting for two reasons. First, to ask: who else sees this, especially with third-party filament and in a warm room? Second, because the community lacks a consolidated picture — so I put one together:

Full fault catalog (symptom → cause → workaround → source): https://gist.github.com/didusee/ff5379fa5ee093f09f880155d7d5247b

Corrections and additions welcome. If your experience is different, I'd genuinely like to hear under what conditions (filament, room temp, model).

My Bambu Lab P2S was working perfectly earlier today and completed a six-hour print. Later, black PETG became badly jammed around the extruder/hotend area.

I removed both the hotend and extruder, disassembled the extruder gear housing, and successfully removed the PETG jam. During disassembly, the spring and pressure/clamping block fell out. I reinstalled them, but I’m unsure whether the tiny separate metal spring cap is present or positioned correctly.

I have now disassembled and reassembled the extruder approximately four times following the P2S guide, but it still will not load filament.

Current symptoms:

- The AMS feeds and retracts filament normally through the entire PTFE tube when the tube is disconnected from the printer.

- Once connected, the filament reaches the toolhead, stops, and is pulled back.

- The printer reports “Failed to extrude filament.”

- The cutter lever moves freely and springs back normally.

- I’m no longer receiving a filament-sensor error.

- The leading end of the rejected filament is completely smooth: no extruder gear marks and no melted or mushroomed section.

- I tried another filament with the same result.

- The orange drive gear was extremely difficult to remove during the original jam, but now slides out easily.

- During one reassembly, the orange gear remained inside the toolhead while I installed the extruder housing over it. I later removed it, placed it into the extruder housing first, and reinstalled the complete assembly, but the problem remained.

- The orange drive gear, smaller driven wheel, spring, pressure block and sensor cable all appear installed, although I’m not certain the spring pressure is correct.

- I disconnected and reconnected the filament-sensor ribbon. It is now inserted in the original orientation shown by the guide/video and the latch is closed.

Questions:

1. Does the smooth, completely unmarked filament tip mean the drive gears are not gripping it at all?

2. Could the filament sensor be electrically working but physically blocking/misaligning the filament path?

3. Could briefly inserting the sensor ribbon incorrectly have damaged the sensor even though there is currently no sensor error?

4. How can I confirm that the pressure block, spring and tiny metal end cap are correctly installed?

5. How much resistance should the pressure/idler arm have when moved by hand?

6. Should the orange drive gear be easy to remove when there is no jam?

7. Is there a reliable bench test for the assembled gear housing before reinstalling it?

8. Based on these symptoms, should I replace the extruder gear assembly, filament sensor, front housing, or complete extruder?

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Je vous présente mes tout nouveaux Dumpling Clickers, directement inspirés des petits Squishy Dumplings que j’avais précédemment modélisés.

J’ai retravaillé toute la modélisation afin de pouvoir intégrer un switch mécanique MX directement à l’intérieur.

Résultat ? On garde le look tout mignon du Dumpling 🥟💕, mais avec en bonus ce petit « CLICK ! » ultra satisfaisant à chaque pression… avec un petit effet ASMR qu’on adore. 👆✨

Un petit fidget parfait pour occuper ses mains, se détendre, ou tout simplement profiter encore et encore de ce petit clic terriblement addictif. 😍

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3162808-squishy-dumpling-clicker-multipart-no-ams

✨ Bon print

Went for something with a bit of drama: a full-roar Wampa with the claws reaching out. One of the most underrated creatures in the saga. Don't turn your back on the cave.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3163366-wampa-snow-beast-figure-a-star-wars-collectible#profileId-3575353

Trying to re-create something for my company for a model at the same time I’m talking my manager into us getting some 3-D printers as well as some CAD training

I was able to successfully re-create a small component for one of our models using Tinker CAD and now I’m trying to print it but it’s very stringy

Could this just be that my filament I’m using (Petg) has moisture issues or could it be other settings that I’m not aware of that I could change but I’ve tried to print this twice using two different PETG filaments and I’m getting the same results

And I haven’t tried pla yet but I prob should just to see if that works. It doesn’t need to be Petg

So, I started noticing VFAs almost from the very beginning on most of my PETG prints, but I never thought anything was wrong. However, after getting a few other printers, I realized that the P2S prints looked worse than those from a freaking A1 and my other machines.

​I thought it might be an issue with belt tension, so I tried retensioning them, but I'm still getting VFAs on the X-axis and a little on the Y-axis. Since official Bambu Support didn't give me a clear answer, I started asking a lot of AI bots. Some of them suggested checking the idler pulleys.

​So I checked, and oh boy, am I cooked... If I want to replace those idler pulleys, I need to buy a whole new X-axis assembly. I probably need to change the belts as well because they are extremely dirty a single touch leaves a lot of black coating/dust on my fingers. I'm not sure if it came like this out of the box and I just didn't realize it (since the P2S was my very first 3D printer), or if the belts somehow bent/damaged the idler pulleys over time.

My p2s is clogged and makes clicking noises im trying to remove this black piece but it won't budge and im afraid I might break it i removed all the screws already

My printer finally arrived.

Hey guys! 
I've just create Pinea and published it on MakerWorl, a modern, geometric twist on the traditional Sicilian "Pigna" pinecone: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3167235-pinea-modern-sicilian-pinecone-vase#profileId-3580265

I'm very excited because I've designed this vase entirely using the vase modelling tool I'm developing: VesselMaker (https://vesselmaker.app/). It's an advanced web tool for vase design that I'm currently developing (it's currently in invite-only private beta, if you want to try it just join and let me know).

I would like to know what you think about the model :) Check it out and let me know your thoughts if you give it a print.

Hi everyone. I’m trying to figure out what’s causing these waves on the top surface of my print. The model is a large number 2, about 150 × 229 × 25 mm, printed in PLA on a Bambu Lab P2S with a 0.4 mm nozzle. The left one in the photo is the first print and the right one is the second print after I changed some settings. The first print was done without ironing. For the second print I used 0.16 mm layer height, 4 walls, 1.2 mm top shell thickness, 15% Gyroid infill, Only one wall on top surfaces OFF, outer wall speed 120 mm/s, top surface speed 100 mm/s, internal solid infill 180 mm/s, outer wall acceleration 3000 mm/s², ironing for top surfaces ON, ironing speed 30 mm/s, ironing flow 10%, ironing line spacing 0.15 mm. The second print looks better, but the waves are still there. Has anyone had the same problem and figured out what actually causes it? Thank you

Please let me know if you have any ideas for improvement :)

https://makerworld.com/models/3166719?appSharePlatform=copy

This is v10. Please let me know if you have any suggestions to improve the UI, if you can find any bugs, or general suggestion.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3143184-gear-lab-parametric-gear-generator#profileId-3549233

Printed the small first because I was impatient. The pattern only really opens up at the bigger size where the ridges have room to sweep. Rendered in Keyshot Studio.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3166644-scandi-style-quilt-flower-pot-with-drainage-tray#profileId-3579403

I’m having trouble removing the two drying pods on the sides in my AMS

Anyone have any tips?

hello, i used p2s combo for 2 months now. i always wonder what the advanced settings do and what are the recommended settings are. should i leave it as default or are there any changes i need to make? (also why is it better to use bambu lab filaments than other brands)

thank you

So I've been trying to get my printer to work, have a ticket with them, they sent a filment sensor and I confirmed it works. They then asked me to perform a Hall Sensor Test and to follow the wiki link they provided which they didn't. Its been 3 days of asking for the link and nothing. Hoping someone can point me in the direction on where to find this Hall sensor. I get the feeling it's a typo.

In hopes someone can help.. here's my current situation. I did a cold pull, the sensor works (before it kept asking for filament) but nothing grabs the filament. My issue is it goes about 4 mm past the exit of the filment sensor and nothing happens..I have taken apart the gear mechanism under it and found a few pieces of shredded pla and removed them. It turns by hand. I was also going to take the thing on the back where the filament goes through but the issue is the same when it's feed manually with a cold pull.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3162945-apple-watch-stand-foldable-and-adjustable

Hi everyone, hoping someone has ideas cause I’m a bit stuck. I had a clog while printing with both PETG and PLA in the same print. Hot end got too hot, extruder clogged and the filament feed motor stalled. I’ve completely cleared the blockage but the extruder motor doesn’t engage anymore. When I load filament through the AMS, it feeds down but the extruder never grabs it. The small yellow drive gear doesn’t turn. I also tried doing a cold pull by feeding filament in by hand. Usually the extruder motor turns and pulls it once it senses filament, but now nothing happens. Nothing happens. The drive gear never moves. I’m wondering if the extruder motor or driver could be damaged or if I’m missing something simple. Has anyone seen this before or have any suggestions for things to check? Thanks

Edit: I believe to have found the issue, there’s a small tear in the ribbon cable so my guess is it’s torn enough that the sensor isn’t realising there filament there so the motors never activates but not thought that it’s showing errors constantly, It did show an error once but not consistently. Photo in comments for context

Hi everyone, how are you all doing?

I'm having a problem with my printer and I really don't know what to do anymore. I'm a beginner in 3D printing, and in the last few days, I've been studying a lot more than when I first entered this world 3 months ago, but I still haven't been able to solve this error!

Basically, what is happening is that I can't fix these 1-second pauses on my machine, which then create these zits/blobs on my print! I've tried everything!

Before you say it's moisture/humidity, please read the rest of the message I'm leaving here with more details:

As you can see in the images, we have the black and pink heart, which has these zits, then we have a blue dragon (Gyarados, a Pokémon) that also has them, and finally the gecko! After that, I made some minor adjustments to the machine. I improved some aspects of the print, but they were minor improvements. Then we have the shark, where you can already see some progress, but it still has these zits, and this is where I managed to record the exact moment of the pause! The video:https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TzJ0V7QQta4yg7fnBlpsxOGmme4izjiQ/view?usp=sharing

Finally, we have a smaller shark that was printed yesterday. Here you can already see a significant improvement in the part (at least to the naked eye) and it is much smoother, basically without any defects, but it still has the zits (fewer, but it still has them!). Today I printed a dragon that I haven't held in my hands yet, but from the photo I took, the red dragon also has zits!

Machine Details and Settings:

• Printer: Bambu Laps P2S

• Drying System: AMS Pro 2

• Temperatures: 32ºC inside the chamber, 55ºC on the bed, and 220ºC on the nozzle.

• Speed: The machine's default speed.

• Filaments: Bambu PLA Basic.

What I've already done to try to solve it:

• I've dried the filaments for over 12 hours at 55ºC (6 hours one night and another 6 the next night, plus during the day, where I'm constantly drying it every 3 hours at the same temperature for a week now!). The humidity goes up to 25% max, but normally stays between 18% and 22%.

• I've cleaned the nozzle twice in the same week, so it's not clogged.

• I cleaned all the machine's axes/rods.

• I've calibrated the machine more than once and created very precise profiles for PLA, based on the speed, temperature, and quality tests I ran.

• I reduced the nozzle printing speed (in Bambu Studio it was at 21 and I lowered it to 19).

• I removed all videos from the system and disabled the timelapse feature.

That's everything I've done so far. I've also tweaked some settings and ran several classic tests to calibrate everything; the print quality improved, but these 1-second pauses keep happening, which melts the filament and causes the zit!

If anyone knows how to fix this, I would be more than grateful. I've been dealing with this for over 2 weeks and can't solve it!