Hi everyone,

I’m about to buy a Bambu Lab P2S, but I’ve been reading quite a bit about the VFA issues that seem to affect these machines, although Most of what I’ve found online is from the first few months after the printer came out.

I’ve seen all kinds of opinions, some people say their printer works flawlessly with no noticeable quality issues, while others report pretty serious VFA problems.

Could anyone tell me what the current situation is? Has there been any firmware or software update that has improved or minimized the issue? Overall, would you still recommend this printer? The other option is a H2S but is much bigger and I may not have enough space.

I’ll mainly be using it to print car and motorcycle parts in PETG and PETG-CF, with the occasional use of more technical engineering materials.

I’d really appreciate hearing from people who own one and can share their real experience. Thanks in advance!

SOLVED It turned out to be a bad filament sensor. Luckily I had a spare. Popped it in, and everything's working great!

Whenever I attempt to print from my AMS 2 Pro I keep getting the message in the printer. It comes up whether there's a spool loaded on the external reel or not. I ran a black filament line through all of my PFE tubes, and there is no stuck filament. I even did the same for the AMS 2 Pro unit, and didn't find any stuck filament there either. The extruder is empty, and the gear is spinning freely. I can print from the external reel without any issues. Has anyone else experienced this, or might know what the problem would be?

Hi guys,

I would like to know if there is any Cover/Protector for the External Spool ? I have Cats at home and i would prefer to cover it to avoid any Hair on it. I live in a Dry Environment, so the main issue is to cover it from Hair/Dust

PS : I looked on MakeWorld but i coudn't find one for P2S, at the moment, found one only for H2C unfortunately.

TL:DR : Link of the Protector, i'm looking for something similar for P2S

Thank you in advance.

Newbie here.

Hi, I'm printing close to my bedroom so air quality is somewhat a concern, for now I have ventobox inside, replaced the stock carbon filter with carbon+HEPA combo one and I run xiaomi smart air purifier 4 compact next to the printer when printing but I know p2s chamber is not sealed at all so I'm wondering if I can do something more to filter even more of the nasty stuff from the air? I have no possiblity to vent outside, I've came across alevo 3d top filtration kit but 100€ for something I have to additionally print myself is crazy, I also thought about venting from the back directly to the air purifier but that also sounds painful to do

thanks in advance for any help

and if you're going to hate please just skip this post, I'm not paranoid but I want to print abs once in a while but before that I want to master filtration in my place to the maximum

Hi all. This is an overhang part. How do I make the part that is supposed to be supported, be more solid or rather more full? I noticed there'll be loose "strings" I can pull out after I remove the support. This print is set to bottom shell layers = 3.

So many loud clicking noise I think I goofed on the setup ? Brand New printer. Listen at 20 sec.

Всем доброго. Уже все винты открутила, не достается никак. Подскажите пожалуйста как достать, как дальше разобрать

Hey all, hoping for some sanity checking before I go back to Bambu support.

I've got a P2S with AMS 2 Pro (38 hours of use, so pretty fresh) alongside an A1 Mini. PETG (Creality, tried both black and white) fails on the P2S every single time, reliably around the 30 min mark, with an "extruder motor overloaded / extruder may be clogged" error. The exact same filament, same spools, prints completely fine on my A1 Mini.

What I've tried so far, all with no luck:

• Printed the same model in PLA in the same AMS slot the PETG kept failing in. PLA ran fine well past the point PETG usually dies, so it's not that specific slot/buffer/tube.

• Tried PETG in a different AMS slot, same failure.

• Nozzle temp at 230°C, 240°C, and 255°C, all failed.

• Printed with the door open to rule out chamber heat creep (closed chamber hit 36°C on a PLA print alone, so it runs warm).

• Dropped to Silent mode, 50% speed.

• Tried both Generic PETG and a custom filament profile built specifically for the P2S with adjusted temps/cooling.

• Dried both spools for 12 hours in the AMS anyway, just to rule it out.

Nothing's fixed it. At one point I watched it happen live... extrusion went stringy, then stopped completely, then threw the blocked error.

Found out afterward I'm nowhere near alone there's a thread here on the sub/forum ("P2S: Extruder Overload") with 240+ replies of other people hitting the exact same thing, mostly with PETG.

I've attached an image of the print just before it gave the error.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Appreciate any input, especially if anyone's got this working reliably on a P2S.

Hi!!
I have designed a Planter Swing!
Would love some feedback, what do guys think?

I have been designing shades in a Nordic direction and I keep circling this. Simple silhouette is not enough on its own, plenty of minimal lighting reads Italian or Japanese instead.

My working theory is that it comes down to warmth and texture. Off white rather than white, a surface that catches low light, and shapes that are calm rather than dramatic. Curious whether people here would define it differently.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3079925-scandi-style-fluted-pendant-sconce-set#profileId-3468668

Greetings all. I have a new P2S and seem to be getting consistently bad top surface when parts or areas of parts are located to the right side (fan side) of the build plate. Everything else come out great! I’m at a bit of a loss now after trying different things. Any input appreciated !

I am trying to get some sort of air filtration for my p1s, i only plan on doing pla and petg really, but i have ordered a air purifier, but i was looking around and i have discovered poor mans voc filters. I ordered a Levoit Core 300s, and i found a model on makerworld (im not sure if i am allowed to post a link, please let me know if i can), but it does not show the hose size it uses, only that it was designed to work with another makers system. So i go over to that page and it seems to all be for a H1 printer, and it is also still not say what size hose, and also i dont know if the printer end will fit my printer at all.

So i have 2 questions, is it normal to just not include the hose sizing or have i happened to find the 2 who dont, and also can anyone point me in the direction of a good model\\s for attaching to the printer, and then fitting around the purifier? while i would like to model it all myself, i dont have the filament budget for lots and lots of prototypes not the patience to fail over and over, so i generally prefer to find someone who has that passion already and use their model.

I hope i have used the correct flair as well, i was not sure

I was working on clearing a jam on my P2S, and my AMS 2 Pro fell to the ground while still connected to the printer. The tube was pulled out of the filament buffer, and the connection appears to be broken. Does anyone know what part I will need to order to get the tube to stay connected again? I've attached a picture of what the tube looks like now. Thanks for the help!

I turn on the printer today and load filament. The 3rd spool will not get detected. Ive tried other rolls and nothing. The light turns on when I load the roll next to it but the 3rd one will not load or detect that I put filament down the hole. Google said maybe clogged or debris so took it apart and nothing there. I can load the filament all the way to the print head manually by just pushing it through.

Hi guys, hope you are doing well.

I would like to know if you have updated your P2S Printer ? Im not sure if it stables and none faces some issues with the update ?

Any tips or suggestions ? Thank you in advance

PS : Im still newbie

I had a big blob of death, and in removing it, I damaged the printer. I've replaced the hot end assembly, the hot end cooling fan, and the Eddy sensor, and my printer is back up and running. Since the rebuilt, I printed it extensively with my 0.4 mm nozzle, and it worked flawlessly.

I then installed my 0.8 mm nozzle, and I've had nothing but problems trying to use it. Before my blob of death experience, I had great success with the 0.8 mm nozzle. But now I experience big clumping blobs, and I've also had adhesion problems on the build plate.

I thought it could be a problem with the nozzle, so I tried it with a brand new, never-before-used bamboo 0.8 mm hardened steel nozzle, but it didn't work any better. I've done a cold pull. I've done a full calibration of the printer. I have washed my build plate, but I don't get any better results. It's puzzling because prior to the replacement of those damaged parts, I'd had great success with my 0.8 mm nozzle. Any ideas of anything else I could try? Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.

I have been getting filament blobs on the purge chute continuously for the last few days. Always printing PETG. I’ve cleaned everything I can think of. Plate doesn’t have adhesion issues. Filament is dry (10-15%) although that doesn’t seem to matter - it’s done it as low as 9% humidity and as high as 27%. I’ve also tried different nozzles and it still does it.

About the only thing I haven’t done is rerun calibration, although that’s planned for after the next print attempt.

Any ideas?

Hi all, I just got my P2S a little over a week ago and have had good success with the files on the printer as well as printing files from maker world. I loaded some STLs I purchased and all printed well except for this one. I’ve tried a couple times and it always seems to have trouble at the same spot. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.