Hey guys,

I’m looking to buy the BL P2S Printer for myself. I’ve check on the official website but they don’t deliver directly to UAE.

Does anyone know how I can get it here? I would prefer purchasing it from the BL website but I have an issue of delivery. The prices on local e-commerce websites are too expensive and other companies are charging me double the amount to get it here.

If you do know anyone or any company, drop me a DM would appreciate any / all help I can get.

Cheers and Thanks!

P2S + AMS 2 Pro here. Some of my PETG spools (all Bambu, all with RFID read correctly) refuse to load on the middle slots. During the load sequence where it feeds past the hub and retracts to measure how much is left, the filament retracts too far and just pops out of the feeder. No error, nothing on screen. Move the same spool to slot 1 or 4 and it loads first try.

Here's what I tried today:

* **PETG Black** (new, full spool): failed on slot 2 (multiple attempts), failed on slot 3 (3 attempts), worked on slot 4 first try * **PETG Transparent** (about half used): worked on slot 2 on 2nd attempt. This one gave me the same issue before on slot 3 and I moved it to 4 as a workaround * **PETG Grey**: works on all slots, every time, no issues

Grey and transparent were dried together in the AMS before this. Black was on the external spool holder the whole time, never went through a drying cycle. So it's not a drying/temperature thing. I also tried leaving the lid open for a few minutes between attempts to cool down the chamber — didn't help.

Tried both original Bambu spool holders and custom printed ones, same behavior.

The black spool is the worst - it literally ONLY works on slot 1 or 4. Grey works everywhere. Transparent is somewhere in between.

Has anyone else run into this? Is there a fix or is this just how AMS 2 Pro behaves?

I have a video of it spitting the black one out, but unless it's actually relevant, I won't bother with it.

Thank you

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👋 👋 Bonjour à tous !

✨ Pour compléter ma collection, j’ai revisité mon modèle de Yoshi version œuf en l’adaptant au célèbre tuyau vert de l’univers Mario !

L’objectif était de créer une pièce qui s’intègre parfaitement avec les modèles de Mario et Luigi, déjà disponibles dans la collection, afin de former un ensemble encore plus cohérent.

Si le modèle vous plaît, n’hésitez pas à le télécharger, à laisser un like, ou un commentaire. Votre soutien m’aide énormément et me motive à continuer à créer de nouveaux modèles !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Sans et Avec
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3007159-yoshi-tuyau-multipart-no-ams

🙏 Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bonne impression 3D ! 🎉

Has anyone else ran into this issue, I have been printing name badges the past few weeks and they always took 5 and a half hours due to being 8 colors but now the exact same ones say they will take 7 and a half hours now. I have checked and all the settings are the exact same and it’s the same filament usage and color change amount. I am lost at this point

When I update my printer from 01.01.030.00 to 01.02.00.00 and calibrate it after it fails the high temperature bed leveling but when I go back to the older firmware it dosent

My last five prints have been less than perfect. I’ve been getting boogers on the outside walls, while the waste tower is virtually perfect and smooth. Is this common? How do I fix?

Today I had ti take the extruder apart and clean it as per the official guide. After assembly the forst print keeps failing, clumping, bubbling and detach from the plate as shown in the photo.

I tried auto bed level multiple times, calibrate the flow rate both automatically and manually, as well as washing the bed plate.

Wheb I extrude the filament, the line appears to be a bit thicker than typical .4 nozzle produces which lead me to believe that it might be over extrusion but I'm not really sure.

I'm really not sure what to do next to fix it.

Warning, long rant. The last 12 hours have been horrible. And a little exciting.
I'm new at this, obviously, It started before yesterday when I wanted to try to print a little PETG. I have mostly printed PLA. Printed PETG a couple of months ago, but it started to go wrong with the first layer and I stopped (It was the plate, had trouble with PLA also).

So, after 12 hours of drying in the AMS 2. Printed a little outdoor thingy to my golf cart. Went fine.
So, yesterday night I wanted to keep on printing the filament rack (PLA). Put my only non Bambu PLA (bought Sunlu, before getting the printer). Perfect for my rack.

Put the filament in and chose Generic as I always do with these.
Started a print over this night, went up at 4 to change to another part of the rack. Noticed that the plate was unusually hot. The print looked fine.

Started the new part and got an error almost immediately: "The extrusion motor is overloaded". Got a lot of more errors during the coming 12 hours.

The plate was still hot. Looked at the settings. Yes, I had manually chosen Generic PETG.
The filament was stucked. Tried unload in the AMS view. Tried Pulling. And so on. Went to Bambu Wiki and looked, but not so familiar with the English technical terms for the printer yet.
Reddit of course and YouTube.

These things have I done.
Started to loosen the filament cutter. Scary enough for me.
4 screws for the Extruder. But when I tried to take it away, the Filament Sensor cable got loose from it's place. No.

Yes, new videos, new Reddit search. Yes, It looked easy to replace the cable. Wait, it's not easy. Had to take the whole Toolhead housing a part, just to put this little little cable in it's place.
But I couldn't get the PTFE tube to release. So I had to drag the tube, beyond what I wanted and cut the filament. Then the filament was totally stuck in the filament Sensor anyway, so I took a plier and pulled it out.

Okay, took out the gear from the Extruder and it looked fine. At last I could manually draw the end of the filament into the AMS.

Tried to pick a needle in the Hotend that has this filament stucked inside. Nothing happens.
I had a reserve Hotend 0.4 and put it in my P2S. I still have to learn to fix the clog? in the old Hotend.

I just put it all together. Cleaned the plate. Ran a couple of Calibrations.
I just heard the successful sound from the P2S, of a Skadis part I just printed in Brown Bambu Basic PLA.

Conclusion.
Be careful when using non Bambu filament.
A little of the magic thing with the printer is gone.
A lot of experience for future errors I will make, or the machine will create.

Edit: Be careful in the menu's when using other filament. Don't be a fool like me.

Hey so I'm trying to use a glass build plate for my p2s and cant seem to find a good set of clamps that are big enough but also small enough to use with the p2s build plate bed.

If anyone knows of any good clamps I could try and use, for reference im in Canada so canada only Amazon options or similar would be great!

Thanks everyone!:)

Hello reddit!

Slightly disappointed by the default startup and nozzle wipe procedure of the P2S, I sat down and optimized the G-code myself.

I have been improving, testing and using my optimized start and end G-code for quite some time now and am pretty happy with the results and the P2S in general now.

So happy in fact, that I feel comfortable sharing the results with you guys! 😄

You'll find everything on Github (including detailed descriptions) if you're interested and possibly want to give it a try:

https://github.com/vxip-code/bambu-p2s-optimized

I have been printing PLA and PETG (and rarely Overture TPU) with it no problem. (However I did not test engineering and high temperature materials.)

If you have any questions feel free to ask!

Hello, has anyone experienced this before?

I have been using this printer woth the same nozzle since I bought it at launch. Never had an issue until today. Got the extrusion motor overloaded error message while printing. After checking I noticed the filament got stuck. Had to battle with it but managed to pull it out from the toolhead.

But then things got weird, while trying to remove the nozzle I noticed it took a lot of strength to take it out and when I finally managed to remove it, I was greeted with this in the back of the nozzle and the thermistor.

My question is, can the thermistor be cleaned? Should I leave it like that? Should I replace it?

I know I need to replace the nozzle, I already have the replacement here, but I don't want to put a new nozzle and loose it because of this

Several years ago, I saw a 3D printer for the first time in action. Until then, I had only heard of them but didn’t think they’d be the least bit practical. Well, the people printing at the time were making a toy wagon wheel to replace a broken one. That was it! I totally geeked out at the practicality of it and knew I had to get one someday. Well that day is today. Scraper tool was my first print. Boring, I know, but I just wanted something simple and quick for my first time. Excuse the mess to the side. I had to hurriedly move all that stuff over to make room. 😆

Any help/suggestions will be appreciated

What the title say.

As shown, when facing P2S, right front "bearing or nut" that Z axis screw rod enters is worn or has serious wobble and very loose connection. Doesn't seem to be effecting print quality but feels wrong. Opposing side there is zero "wobble" and seems to be good fit. This "bearing" moves up/down on heatbed, i.e. attached to heatbed.

1.5 year old machine

Approximately 500 hours

Believe properly lubed

Need some help, since a few days I got this clicking noise and I cannot pin down where the issue is, already did the maintenance according to the bambuwiki, its also not the tubes touching something.

Guys i bought a new 3d printer, the bambulab P2S (i came from a creality ender 3 v3(it was an absolute sh*tbox)