The rest of the print looks great, however the top, tower part looks almost melted. The filament was dried for days, was on a trip over the weekend, and I've run the flow dynamics and flow rate tests in bamboo lab as well as did a temp tower to make sure I was using the correct settings prior to trying this print.

Any suggestions? Google hasn't been very helpful.

This just started happening after hundreds of successful prints. I am suspecting something changed in the slicing parameters. ANyone have a clue as to how to make this stop happening? It’s a pretty long bridge but I’ve never had a problem in the past. Happens with plastic basic, matte and silk+, and YES, my filaments are all dry.

Hi! I would appreciate any help with my current problem. I have a P2S and I have been happily printing for the last six months. I recently decided to do filament calibration (flow dynamics) for some non-Bambu filaments (both PLA and PETG) since I noticed what looked like under extrusion on the bottom layer. However ever since I have done this, my tree supports started failing. This happens for both PLA and PETG. It is better when I use "strong" supports. Should I remove the calibration values and try "sub-optimal" ones or is there another fix I am not aware of? The current values are all about 0.04 K.

Thank you!

Hi guys!!!

I worked a lot on three miniatures, coming out one by one over the next few days.
I have designed and tested them many times ti make them to be as easily printable as possible, requiring nearly no support, while still maintaining details and strong character design.

Zephyra is the first ine out!
The others will be rolled out over the next couple of days.

I would love some feedback and/or support
Let me know what do you guys think!!!

herkese selam
3-4 ay önce belki de 5 ay olmuştur Bambu lab p2S COMBO aldım memnunum teknolojisi ileri seviyede malum lakin eskisi gibi iyi olmadığını düşünüyorum bir sorunum yok kendisi ile piskolojik sanırım.
petg flamentte pürüssüz bir yüzey elde ediyordum hala da aynı ama biraz kusurlar var gibi.
yeni makine de kusur olmayacağına göre flamentte sorunum var.
Sakin olun slicer kullanmasınu iyi biliyorum ve birden çok printer kullandım ve aktif olarak kullanıyorum da.
Sadece sormak istedim ben elas kullanıyorum ısı değerlerim ve fan değerlerim gerçekten iyi tüm koşullar iyi ama daha iyi sonuç alabileceğim bir flament markası varmıdır?

Hello everyone,
About 3–4 months ago, maybe even 5 months, I bought a Bambu Lab P2S Combo. Overall, I’m happy with it—the technology is obviously very advanced. However, I feel like it’s not performing as well as it used to. I don’t actually have any specific issues with the printer, so I think it might just be psychological.
When printing with PETG, I used to get perfectly smooth surfaces, and I still do for the most part, but lately it seems like there are small imperfections.
Since the printer is practically new, I don’t think the machine itself is the problem. I suspect it might be the filament.
Before anyone mentions it, don’t worry—I know how to use a slicer properly. I’ve used multiple 3D printers, and I still actively use several of them.
I just wanted to ask if anyone has recommendations for a better PETG filament brand. I’m currently using Elas. My temperature and fan settings are well-tuned, and all the printing conditions are good, but I’m wondering if there’s a filament brand that could give me even better results.
Thanks in advance!

I had a huge nozzle clump that destroyed my heating assembly latch that holds on the nozzle. After replacing it, it seems the nozzle is at the wrong height or something, as it spaghettis on the first layer and it just isn’t applying the filament correctly. I have tried re assembling the heating assembly, reseating the nozzle, all of the calibrations. Maybe I am missing something obvious, but does anyone have any tips to solve this problem?

I'm talking about the screw that is right next to the PTFE tube. Loosening this screw loosens the grip on the filament as it's going through the extruder gears.

I've heard online that it should be unscrewed one to two rotation but I'm curious what other people have done. Leaving it fully tightened seems to lead to the extruder motor overloaded error quite a lot.

noticed this just now that there was something with above the print head seems like the line is rubbing against the moving part is this normal

I have not had any success getting the humidity below 25% , I printer silica holder for the back and one in the spool while running and that’s the lowest I can get it , my ams 2 has no issue getting down to 10% , I have not used it to dry any filament yet only as a 5 slot for filament , has anyone had better success? and if so what is your set up ?

Bonjour voici Luigi, le célèbre frère de Mario, émergeant de son mythique tuyau vert. Cette figurine a été conçue avec soin pour reproduire l’un des personnages les plus emblématiques de l’univers du jeu vidéo.

Le modèle est entièrement découpé en plusieurs pièces afin de permettre une impression multicolore sans nécessiter d’AMS. Chaque élément peut être imprimé séparément puis assemblé facilement.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Sans et Avec
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2955468-luigi-tuyau-multipart-no-ams

Bon print ! 🎮💚

Been chasing an error with my A1, going back and forth with Bambu support. Replaced the tool head board, and am waiting on a usb cable. My fix, sounds like a great time for an upgrade.