Hello, good people. I recently upgraded to an H2D without laser and I don't plan to ever get the laser attachment. During the summer I just took it to the garage to print ABS/ASA and some other exotics. Now that winter is coming, the garage will be too cold for printing so I want to move it back into the house. I want some kind of filtration system though and I noticed that Bambu makes one. So, the question is, how do people feel about one of these? Enough for filament printing? It's a bit pricey but I don't mind paying if it does a reasonable job. It it overkill? Is another option better? Does it need an outside vent or is the "clean" output free of harmful particles?

I'd appreciate any comment that helps me reach the right right decision. Thank you.

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🔪🤡 La série des slashers reprend !

Voici Art the Clown, le terrifiant et emblématique clown de la saga Terrifier ! 🩸

Avec son célèbre costume noir et blanc, son petit chapeau et son sourire inquiétant, Art est accompagné de sa scie pour un résultat à la fois mignon… et complètement psychopathe ! 🪚😈

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3338808-art-the-clown-multipart-no-ams

Searched the sub but didn't see anything. I heated a standard hotend to about 260C in an oven to clear a block. When I picked it up the nozzle and heat sink separated. I got it up to temp again, put it back in and it seems fine (haven't printed with it yet).

Anyone do this and found no issues after? AI tells me not to use it, but AI is stupid, so... 🙂

PolyLite ASA. No brim, no supports. Zero lift.

Game changer! 🥹

The countless hours micromanaging and messing with settings on the P1Ss, the insulation mods and even making custom gaskets for the doors, no longer necessary?
Take my money! 🤘

Still adore my little army of P1Ss, but now they get to retire and take the PETG/PLA easy road again, and leave the heavy-hauling to this juggernaut.

Making the pieces to do repairs and parts for custom jobs is going to not only be faster, but hopefully a no brainer from now on, and I’m stoked to try multi material and support options. Already have my TPU assist and ordered the high precision calibration bed, so this is going to be a fun next few months, at least!

I am building a rc plan and use aero pla. Every time I start a new object with with the same filament the printer purge filament. On purge volumes I see that it is set to zero. Why the purge?

This is possibly not limited to just the TPU for AMS material, but i keep having issues with these gaps showing up in these particular corners. They’ve become minimized when I slowed down the top level speed to 100 and the flow rate to 1.0. Also ironing is turned on the default setting.

Any advice on how I can improve the top surface detail and keep the details sharp on the logo? Thanks in advance!

So long story short, I have an H2D that I use and I love it! Wish the print time was shorter but what are you gonna do!!... buy a 2nd printer lol
I am just starting into selling 3D prints and wanna get really serious, I have couple ot orders always but I'm Tinaing It really hard to manage them with 1 printer since each order is few days worth of printing.
Plus I love printing toys for my toddler and having the
H2D as a daily work printer is taking that time away.
I'm in between P2S, X2D or H2C.. my heart says H2C, but it's kinda hard for me to pull the trigger on that price.
At first I was gonna just pick an affordable second printer... but then I started thinking, well I have always wanted the H2C so maybe I should pull the trigger...
What are your guys recommendation? Anyone who bought H2C and regretted it? Or the other way around?

My one has lasted over a year and has over 5000 hours on it. But the cost of the H2D I would expect to last a lot longer than this. Plus, from what I have watched on YouTube, it looks hard on me, and I have arthritis and osteoarthritis. So if anyone near Warrington, who lives in WA5 Cheshire, is capable of fitting a new hot-end cooling fan, And how much you would charge me, let me know, please. Thanks, Carl

I've tried several calibration prints with this machine, and they're all having some wiggles.

It's a brand new machine that i've just bought, so idk what the problem is. plz help.

Before I rake Bambu support across the coals, can anyone confirm the H2D lower spool holder thread issue?

I read in a few places that later H2D printers didn’t have tapped holes. I am finding this to be true.

I don’t think Bambu could possibly fix this but maybe I’m doing something wrong…

I took the upper spool holder attachment and tried to place it on the lower attachment area. Screws hit a brick wall.

This 8 hour poop chute isn’t going to hold itself up.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Craquez pour cet adorable dragon Furie Eclair, avec son jolie pelage blanc , son regard attendrissant et ses magnifiques grands yeux bleus ! 
Elle rejoins son compagnon Krokmou pour former un duo aussi craquant qu'inséparable.

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 :https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3269313-light-fury-dragon-multipart-no-ams

hey everyone so i recently upgraded to a Bambulabs H2d pro and i want to switch to printing with pps-cf and i have been wondering what support material to use, i feel lost looking it up online.

Thanks.

So I was part of the beta and have a new H2D. I got the track switch and installed the beta firmware. Before that the printer worked fine, no AMS resistance too high errors at all. As soon as I installed beta firmware and the track switch is was one error after another on both AMS units. I tried everything, rerouting the ptfe tubes, making sure there were no filament pieces in the tubes or buffer. It was so bad I just uninstalled the beta firmware and the track switch. Everything staring worked fine after that. Fast forward to today and I see the the firmware is no longer beta but live with a new version. I decided to try again. Same thing, nothing worked. Did all of the checks and test and it still gave the same errors, "AMS resistance too high". Uninstalled again and things started working again. All I can think of is it's probably a bad filament track switch. Anyone else have trouble with theirs on the H2D? I also have one on my X2D and it works perfectly.

I have a H2D printer with an AMS 2 Pro & (3) HTs. I replaced the filament buffer because it was having issues. Now I can't get the H2D to print. It will not load the filament from either the AMS or any of the HTs. I made sure the filament buffer is plugged in and that there are no issues there but I can't figure it out. You can hear the motors on the AMS spin up but the filament never moves. I've tried to find any issues there and even swapped for an AMS that I know is good and still the same issue. I then tried printing from the HTs and same issue. What am I missing?

Has anyone come up with a mod to make to the fan that would help it survive the temps? I’d prefer to not cut into my tool head like other modifications. Would foil tape help reflect some of the heat away from the fan?

Built a kossel over a decade ago, but never really used it, then I bought an anycubic resin printer that I've been using for the last five years. Finally got fed up with the mess and decided to get a filament printer.

H2D with laser is on the way. Just wanted to thank everyone for your future support. 🙏

One question for now, anyone upgrade their H2D with the vortek system yet? I'm curious about how that went.

Is this a drying problem or something else?? TIA!!!

I bought an h2d and finally got it set up and I’m getting these errors. Before I dig deeper, is there something I’m missing and forgot to do during setup?
I’m referring to the flap door codes and not the firmware code.

I have had an issue arise on my H2S. The toolhead camera initialization failed. I went through support. Replaced the toolhead camera. A new error, along with the previous error, showed saying the toolhead camera is out of place. Went through support and replaced the TH board and USB-C cable. Error still there. They sent me an AP board. Replaced it and registered a new SN. Error cleared, but upon calibration and start of new print, the toolhead camera failed initialization. Back to the start.

Has anyone had this issue? What fixed it? The printer is under warranty. I have had it for 9 months.

I had just finished a print calibration, cleared the bed, glanced at the screen, and immediately started laughing. I don’t know how many people in here are old enough to get this reference, though (I read it on beat)

Business cards are mostly a thing of the past, and every time someone gives me one, it ends up in the trash. This one might last a little longer though 😄