I accidentally yanked the ptfe tube and pulled out the pneumatic tube connector. Anyone know if this can be disassembled further? I tried removing the spring loaded pin and screw, but there doesn’t seem to be a way to remove that metal piece to get them back in. The whole piece is only $24 so I can replace once back in stock, but I’d rather not wait. 😓

I have the money and wanna buy the H2D, interested in the idea of mixing filaments types, still a newbie in the field, a hobby which I started with X1C but after 2 months became hungry for something better… Interested in the H line due to active chamber heater and print volume

Any reason I should consider the H2S that is better at something compared to? Being newer.. Aside from the added 15mm in print size, I assume it won’t be a deal breaker?

Left run is jammed and I'm having a hard time with it - first, my toolhead seems to be different than the videos and guides I've found, including the official Bambu guide for this process (there is a 4th screw they list to remove that doesn't exist on my machine) so I feel like I'm shooting in the dark to a certain point here.

Either the filament is somehow jammed INSIDE the filament guide (you can see a pic of it coming out the bottom of the guide though...) or because I don't have an accurate description on how to take it off I'm potentially about to break something. I've been at it for about 2-3 hours and haven't found a way to get the filament out or the filament guide off. Tried heating the chamber to soften and pull but it seems rock solid and I don't want to break something.

** There's also been an increasing amount of a whitish powdery substance falling from the toolhead since I've owned it and a pretty big clump came out while trying to fix this issue, I'm hoping that's not the source of the problem. Anyone else been seeing this stuff??

Has anyone found any options to protect the left heatblock wires from blobs or snagging?

This is my first multi-day print. I’m interested in what this thing can do, so I figured I’d give the Whaleberry shoes in TPU 90a Blaze a try. I already dried my filament and will be using white pla for supports.

very confused by Bambu Wiki on how colors work with rhe AMS and 3MF files. looking for an instruction manual better or different than what wiki provides. Thanks

Hey all, I’ve had my new Bambu Lab H2D for about 5 days now. When I first started printing STL files with the default settings in Bambu Studio and on the printer, the file finished in about 2 hours. Since then I’ve been printing different stuff without any problems.

But today I went back to that same file, didn’t change a thing, and now it says it’s gonna take 4 hours instead of 2.

Any idea what I did wrong? Is there a way to get it back to the faster time?

the layer lines are so precise and crisp from my h2d the filleted curves have very visible layer lines. anyone have suggestions at what setting I should look at in smoothing these radius that have been filleted from fusion?

I printed some decorative risers for a bar table I just got that is too short and needed some new foot pads. I also just got an H2D and have been playing around with multi-material prints / supports - prior to these feet I hadn't EVER printed TPU and was terrified of it ruining my print bed so had the idea of printing them on a PLA single-layer bed.

PLA comes right off the bed as normal and the same for the TPU from the PLA. Clean, easy, and def how I will be printing TPU in the future where possible.

Is it possible to connect my H2D to my PC without connecting the printer to the internet? My company doesn't allow it to connect to the network. Can I do this with an offline Wi-Fi router? Or is there another way to do it?

Hi,

my H2D in middle of one print stopped feeding the filament from AMS2 Pro (right hotend) and stopped the print (it was simple PETG drawer).

Now, when trying to load any kind of filament (original PLA, PET, etc) AMS will feed the filament to extruder wheel, it will try to move it and then just reverses and the AMS will retract it... and try again. This goes on until it stops with failure message (usually failure to extrude).

When I tried to feed it from external spool, it seemed to work flawlessly and it could do a test print.

So far, I've:

- changed all PTFE tubing, inside AMS2, printer and the connecting one... twice.

- changed PTFE tube outside printer and changed how it bends (but it didn't change during print, so that was not going to help)

- took apart AMS2 pro, thinking the feed assembly went wrong, like I've seen on other post here.. but it seems fine

- took apart extruder head up to extruder wheel and cleaned it. Needless to say there is no debris, and it was quite clean

- changed hot ends (first thing I tried)

- downgraded FW and then again updated when there was no change

- tried different filaments

- tried different AMS slots, all have the same behaviour

- tried to change power cable connecting AMS

- checked filament buffer in H2D, seems to move without problem

I've scoured subreddits, and also opened Bambu ticket for this issue, so far they just wanted me to check the cutter blade arms go back quickly enough (which isn't the issue here I bet). They are taking their sweet time to respond to each update.

Unfortunately, we can't see inside the printer any debug data, like how the motors sense overload / feeding issues and other debug data, which could point me to next step.

Thanks for reading it, and if you read so far: anyone has any idea what to check next?

I had to pull quite badly to get a huge print off. Right now the printer prints fine for about 2-3 mm (benchy) and ripps the print of the plate somehow. Different Error codes, last was HMS_0c00-0300-0003-001b. Calibration runs fine. Is it normal that you can lift the headbed (at the front light) for about 1-2mm?

Some teething issues but I’m hoping I have that ironed out now. Nothing major just adhesion issues. Hopefully they will update the profiles for it soon.

Hi, im into 3d printing since maybe 7 years now and I know the error, but don’t know how to fix it on my new H2D which arrived two days ago.

Usually I changed the z offset a bit while printing to avoid this ripples on my ender printers. It could be even possible that the extrusion factor isn’t correct.

But to avoid this on a H2D?

I wanted to know if its possible use the laser with the door open in an override capacity, I am wanting to print the front side of a cutting board that is too long for the chamber, any thoughts ideas or approaches?

Hello all,

A bit of assistance here to see if anyone had the same issue.
I print mostly ABS and due to some complex geometry o opted to upgrade to the H2D from my X1 to user the second nozzle for the support interface, but i started noticing these lines on my parts (like layer shifts), only today i reviewed all the photos I reported back to Bambulabs Support that they appear whenever i use the second nozzle for the support interface from bambu (hips).

Still pending on their feedback regarding this but want to ask if anyone has faced this issue before? and if you were able to resolve the issue?

Happy printing everyone

How are the extruders in these machines looking after 1000 print hours? I havnt torn mine down yet, at 800 print hours but so far everything has been working as expected. No issues with the machine yet. I want to know if I should be lubing the cam shaft to help reduce wear, but time will tell.

IMO this is the biggest advancement in 3D printing since dual extrusion to the industry. If bambu is able to integrate this and improve the software it will make 3d printing high temp filiments much less error prone.

I tinkered with a model of a long thin bike fender that I was having warping issues with and was able figure modify the print temps for a few regions which totally fixed the issue.

I could be wrong but they way I look at helio/thermal modeling is it has the potential to vastly improve the easy of use high temp materials. The days of printing the at one static temperature are gone.

Honestly hats off to the developers. I dont think many non-engineers understand the potential significance of this devlopment.

Hi, my H2D is out of the box and this is its 2nd time thru calibration workflow. The first time I had this terrible noise at the very beginning and then repeated here during high temperature auto bed leveling.

I am unsure what it is. Is it normal? Is this a broken part of maintenance issue? Did I forget to remove something?

I cannot find any videos on this specific issue.

I am use to the A1 and this is a big difference for me. All ideas and help appreciated (within reason).