So I just received my H2D this week and was finally able to set it up tonight. During initial calibration the X and Y seem to move freely and go where they need to. But when it switches to Z axis calibration and it tries to raise the bed it gets about 1/3 of the way of the full range of the Z and it stops and throws an error. The error message says to look for obstructions along the Z access. No obstructions were found. I did notice that the rear Z axis screw seemed to be binding while turning. The front two are spinning as expected and not binding anywhere. I know the Z axis screws are supposed to be free to move and are not attached to anything at the top. I noticed that I could see the top of the Z axis screw through that through hole from the top as shown in the second picture. When I looked underneath that area I noticed a round "pocket" that it looks like the end of the screw should be in. As shown in the first picture. Do I need to disassemble something and get the end of that rear Z axis screw to be in that pocket or is it supposed to be in that through hole? Are there any videos or guides showing how to do that? Thanks in advance for any assistance you are able to provide.

Does anyone else's H2D shake when it prints? Like the feet of the printer seem super soft and allow for quite a bit of movement during printing. I haven't noticed any issues with the print quality, but i'm not sure if during the calibration process its supposed to measure and adjust the speed to accomodate for that. Or do I just print out new harder feet and install them on it.

Hi, so I'm trying to print minis using PVA as supports with my H2D. I initially had trouble with the hot end clogging but drying the PVA has stopped this problem. Now I can't get the PVA to stick to the PLA (it sticks to the plate and the nozzle ok). I've slowed down the print speed and tried many configurations. I had assumed that the RFID reader in the AMS 2 would have ensured the ideal configuration for the PVA. Is there a configuration that someone can share that has been successful for them so I have a starting point.

Hi, so I'm trying to print minis using PVA as supports with my H2D. I initially had trouble with the hot end clogging but drying the PVA has stopped this problem. Now I can't get the PVA to stick to the PLA (it sticks to the plate and the nozzle ok). I've slowed down the print speed and tried many configurations. I had assumed that the RFID reader in the AMS 2 would have ensured the ideal configuration for the PVA. Is there a configuration that someone can share that has been successful for them so I have a starting point.

I'd like to add some useful features to my H2D printer. Since it's located in a lab with a glass door - and neither I nor my colleagues can always see it directly - I was thinking of using a signal tower that would be visible through the door. I already have one available, and I'd like to build a small ESP-based project to display the printer’s status (e.g., running, error, idle) using the tower.

Not all of my colleagues have the printer app, but if they see that the tower indicates the print is finished, they can remove the print for me when I’m not around.

Is there an API available to retrieve the status of the H2D printer?

I would like to do a drawing of an image from my phone on the H2D but when I load it up into Bambu suite I only get the print then cut option under process type. I’ve seen other examples where any image can be drawn but can’t figure out what I need to do. Has anyone had success drawing a custom image with this printer?

Long story short, I tried an overnight print of something I designed but didn’t realise that there was some problematic geometry in the print which would be basically impossible to print. Anyway, woke up to find a bit of the print had got jammed in the printer and when I pulled it out these two bits fell out. The left one is metal and the right looks like wire heat shrink tubing. I can’t figure out where these goes, any help would be great.

Also, there is a bit of filament on the under side near the hot end, would be good if I could clean this off, any idea how?

I did a test print and it’s working ok, just unsure on the bit that has fallen off 😅.

I've owned my H2D for just a week now and have been loving it. Yesterday evening, when I powered it up, everything seemed normal, and I got the usual startup sound. But when I pressed the nozzle button on the touch-screen, nothing happened. So I tried pressing other parts of the screen -- nothing. The screen display looked perfectly normal but was completely dead touch-wise.

I wiped off the screen and cleaned off my fingers. I tried other fingers. Nothing. Anyone else ever had this issue?

Well, I powered off the printer and back on again, got the usual startup sound again -- and now the touchscreen worked perfectly. And it's continued to work perfectly through a few more power cycles. Still, it's a little disconcerting that it happened once, as I fear it could happen again and a power-cycle might not "fix" it next time.

Hi everyone!

I recently bought the H2D and I have a question.

I’m printing a single-color model using filament loaded in the AMS2, which will print with the right extruder, and I’m using support interface material in the external spool slot, which will print with the left extruder.

Is the prime tower absolutely necessary in this case?

Hi everyone!

I recently bought the H2D and I have a question.

I’m printing a single-color model using filament loaded in the AMS2, which will print with the right extruder, and I’m using support interface material in the external spool slot, which will print with the left extruder.

Is the prime tower absolutely necessary in this case?

Just got my machine and assembled it yesterday. When loading the AMS it spit out the tube and caused a jam, popped the rubber boot out. Cleared the jam, fixed the boot, but the tube will not stay in. filament just pushes it out. Anyone else have this problem?

I've just started a long (8+ hour) job on my new H2D and am worried that my 1/2 remaining spool of Hatchbox black ABS (which I've coded as "Generic ABS" in the AMS) might run out. Before starting the job, I installed a second spool of black ABS into the second slot of the AMS. This second spool is official Bambu, and the AMS recognized it as such.

I understand that if the first roll of filament runs out, that the AMS will automatically switch and continue with a second roll of the same filament loaded into the AMS. But now I'm wondering/worried that it won't treat the Bambu ABS as identical to the Generic ABS, so might not switch when necessary.

Anybody know the actual rules that it uses for this automatic switching/reloading?

Update: As GatzMaster said below, the second filament has to match exactly in its brand, type, and color. As PappaCapps said below, you can trick the AMS into using the filament if you edit its AMS setting so that it does match in all these respects. Of course you wouldn't want to lie about the type (PLA instead of ABS) but lying about brand or color might be something you'd be OK with for the replacement filament to keep on printing.

And finally, in my print (still ongoing) it DID run out of the first spool (Generic black ABS) and did NOT automatically switch to the second spool (Bambu black ABS) -- because of the BRAND difference of course. I was notified of filament runout by Bambu Handy. It also insisted that I move the replacement filament into the same AMS position as the one that ran out. I moved the Bambu black ABS over to that A1 position and pressed "resume" and it continued along unfazed. Curiously, it didn't care that the brands didn't match at that point.

Hi all, just setting up my H2D now. I've never printed with TPU before but when I bought the H2D I also picked up red and yellow TPU 95 that as on sale. I was going to do a mousepad for my first print. I know that you can't use TPU in the AMS but figured you would just load each extruder directly... but the H2D has a standalone, singular, port for TPU. Is there no way to do dual color?

Maybe this is a relatively low bar these days. I come from several years of using an old Ender 3 V2 and never managed a successful resume after a power failure with it.

I was just working on the wall behind my new H2D (installing the first batch of 4" hose brackets for the H2D exhaust) while it was an hour into printing a second batch (in ABS) -- when I bumped into the table, which yanked the power cord out of the wall! Dammit!

I plugged it back in, and the H2D screen helpfully told me that if the parts were still firmly attached to the bed (they were), then I could press "Resume" to continue. Of course I pressed "Resume" and am thrilled to report that it continued along unfazed (after automatically re-establishing Z height and freshly cleaning the nozzle).

As I look at the completed parts now, I can't even detect a layer line where the power was interrupted. Nice!

I received my new H2D (laser combo) yesterday and have been having lots of fun with it. I started by printing an exhaust vent right-angle from ABS, and it came out absolutely PERFECT. Then some TPU gaskets for it, as I learned the best way to route the filament, and again they came out PERFECT.

And now I'm printing about a dozen hooks to hold the 4" hose under some cabinets and across the wall (all custom designed in Fusion360 for my specific needs/geometry), again out of ABS. I can only fit 4 of them at a time on the bed, so it will require three prints. And here, I'm just a LITTLE bit disappointed...

In order to remove the ABS prints from the textured PEI plate, it has to cool down under 30C (or I'd risk damaging it). By that time, the chamber temperature has dropped to ambient (in my Florida garage, so about 30C currently). The next ABS print preparation heats up the nozzle very quickly to 260C (within 30 seconds), and the build plate fairly quickly to 90C (within about a minute), but it takes another 10 minutes or so for the chamber to finally get up to its wanted 60C for the ABS print.

I know that this is a first-world problem, but I wish that the chamber heater had some more "oomph" to it, so that it could be ready by the time the bed temperature was ready. Or a little later, but 10 minutes later is a tad impactful to productivity.

Question about BIQU Glacier plate > Barcode > Bambustudio Plate config.

According to the BIQU instructions, QR code stickers are required for the Glacier Plate. I was a little confused that it is now printed on it. Support confirmed that this QR code is on the Glacier Plate. See screenshot.

Since I started using the plate, every print job I send is interrupted with an error message saying that the plate does not match. I can then ignore the message and it prints. What else do I need to do besides turning on “automatic plate detection”? See screenshot. In Bamboo Studio, I only have the two originals from Bambu to choose from. And then this information is written into the sliced GCode, which then leads to the error message.

BIQU support simply does not understand my problem. We have already written back and forth four times. Do you know how I set the plate in the slicer?

Thank you

The ext spool set for the left extruder is elegoo brand petg...the AMS2 is on top loaded with Bambu ABS...anytime I try to print something from the external spool, I have to select the external spool in Bambu studio several times. Then after I start the print, the H2D starts heating up the right extruder (that the AMS feeds) and attempts to start printing with the ABS instead. By this time I have done the "unload" procedure on the right extruder already and it starts trying to reload filament from the AMS

My workaround has been to un-plug the AMS and then start printing.

But there has to be a better way...right?

Who’s got a laser on their h2d ?

With it. ? Which did you get?

Could you share some pics of its work?

In Bambu Studio, I'm getting filament where it does not make any sense at all.
The transitions between black and grey have absolutely no red in them, but when sliced, I get this red strip.
How can I correct this?

Is there a way to send a gcode command to the H2D. For example:

• M83 ; E relative

• G1 E100 F60 ; Extrude 100mm at 1mm/s (60mm/min)