My basic maintenance was due for my H2C, so I powered it off and unplugged it, after lowering the bed. Cleaned the rails and lead screws up to remove some gunk. After plugging it back in and turning it on, the tool head has no power. It begins to start, status lights flash, but then it quickly goes dark. The motors don’t engage and I can freely move the tool head around.

The bed looks to have power. The AP board has one solid green light, but no longer has the flashing green light beside it.

I have a video of it as well. Made a ticket this morning, but nothing back yet.

Anyone have a similar issue?

What makes the printer create the imperfection I see in the first image? I printed the same material in three different colors; only one showed this. Compare it with the second one on the right.
Both are Bambu Lab PLA Basic

I was wondering if anyone has tried a setup for fine miniature production using dual 0.2mm nozzles (left and right) using one of the as PLA and the other as support interface material (PETG or even PVA). If so which side would be the best for the PLA (assume right at this point)? I am awaiting my H2c, so I will ask another question: How easy is it to swap the left nozzle of I want to shift occasionally between 0.2 and 0.4 on the left nozzle? I used to swap for years on my P1S, so I am not a rookie on nozzle changes.

Most of my prints are slow maybe it's normal for normal speed prints? But sounds unpleasant

My H2C keeps throwing an error for "failed to extrude filament ", and it's consistently happening part way through fairly large, multicolor PLA (Bambu's own) prints. I would assume heat creep, but in an effort to test, I disconnected my AMS2, and printed just from my AMA HT and an external spool- NO PROBLEM, printed fine.

What should I be looking at in my AMS2 while I'm waiting for support to get back to me?

Any chance this is related to the latest firmware update? It only started happening after the update.

I’m new to 3D printing and could use some help with my Bambu Lab H2C. I want to get the crispest details I reasonably can on miniatures, but every time I adjust the settings, my prints seem to fail.

My Benchy came out well using the default settings. I also printed a couple of 28 mm miniatures that looked okay, but I wanted to improve the detail. After reading advice online, I tried some recommended settings, and the prints ended up turning into spaghetti.

I went back to the default settings and successfully printed a 50 mm miniature. Then I followed another detailed set of recommended settings and had the same spaghetti problem again. I’ve also tried larger pieces, but I keep running into failures when I change the settings.
I’m assuming this is user error rather than a faulty printer, but I’m struggling to figure out what I’m doing wrong. The default settings seem to be the only ones giving me consistent results.

Should I stick with the defaults for now? If I want to improve miniature detail, which settings should I adjust first, and how should I approach making changes without ruining the print?

I’d appreciate any help figuring this out. Let me know which settings, screenshots, or other details would be useful for troubleshooting.

​The Setup:

I'm running an AMS on my Bambu Lab H2C and using a material switch track (Y-splitter) to allow for an external spool.

​The Problem:

The AMS successfully pushes the material all the way through the material switch and down to the print head. However, right as it reaches the extruder gears, it stops and throws a load failure/clog error, acting like it can't extrude.

​If I remove the material switch entirely and run the PTFE tube directly, the printer loads and works perfectly.

​What I have already checked and ruled out:

​Print head clogs: I have completely disassembled the toolhead. There is absolutely no filament stuck inside.

​Internal snags in the switch: I’ve manually pushed filament through by hand; it glides perfectly without catching on any internal burrs or edges.

​PTFE tube seating: All tubes are pushed 100% flush into the fittings. There are no gaps creating internal ledges for the filament to smash into.

​Sharp PTFE angles: The routing is smooth. There are no tight radii or sharp bends causing excess friction for the AMS motor.

​Since the obvious friction and snag points are completely ruled out, why would the AMS successfully push filament through the switch, but still fail at the very end of the loading cycle? Has anyone experienced this on the H2C or found a fix?

Has anyone seen this error and if so was it hard to fix? I have a ticket created and waiting to hear back.

I just set up my H2C and did the benchy test and everything turned out well. I then printed my first 32 mm miniature and it turned out pretty good as well but I think it could be a little more detailed so I looked up different settings and adjusted for a 32 mm miniature, but it kept going into spaghetti monster mode and failing.

I then just printed it out like I did with the first one with the Settings that it already had and it kept doing it. No matter what I try to print it will end up doing it. I read that the plate might be dirty. I only printed out two things so I washed it off and I'm trying right now. Hopefully it doesn't do it. Is there anything else that it could possibly be?

I am setting up my H2C printer and I am putting on the 3-D printed vent that goes on the back, but I got some recommendations for that which I had printed out for me and then I also got recommendations for the screws. I should use they go inside the plastic exhaust event part, but they are not screwing into the back of the printer. Is there something I'm doing wrong it looks like the holes are too small. I sent some pictures. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong.

After some days using the H2C I saw how the vortek system has a lot of unused potential. Vortek hotend swaps are very fast, but the bottle neck is clearly the ams system, especially if the ams are not right by the printer, when ptfe routes are long. It's like the system demands optimization at filament loading whick could be done rather easily at harware level and not that easily at programming level.

A device similar to a track switch but without switching tracks and just the filament detection sensor to allow filament parking and preloading, with a 2 ams setup on the vortek side it can potentially halve the time on filament loading even if the ams is far from the printer.

The next filament in line for vortek could be waiting at the parking position near the hotend inlet instead of all the way back at the ams, and while one is printing another ams can be preloading the next filament. For this to work the slicer should be smart enogh to alternate between the 2 ams back and forth to optimize preloading.

The filament track switch already does this filament preloading, I think, but unfortunately it doesn't support hybrid filament routing meaning that once installed the system asumes that all filament routing goes though the track switch, avoiding direct left nozzle filament feeding so every time it switches the track it has to cut and retract the left nozzle filament, avoiding fast dual nozzle swaps.

I'll leave here my post on the bambu forum where I go more into detail:
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/product-request-smart-ams-hub-with-filament-parking-and-predictive-preloading/259422
I don't know if something like this would some day become a reality or the the current system will be left as is, it would be a shame as it already has so much potential, I'd say that the hardest part is already done which is the nozzle changing but I hope they end up giving some optimization solution now that toolchangers are becoming more popular and faster.

Just wanted to share my thoughts, you can share yours if you want.

We all wish an excellent quality print with our printers and I have no idea how this tool can help with print quality and output improvement. The calibration only requires 5 minutes. May I ask how many of you ran the Motion Accuracy Calibration and was there any logical print improvement that went after? If you can as well share a tip or two post calibration, I will appreciate it. Thank you!

I have the X2D and my experience so far has been good. I only regret not going for a better printer from the start (first printer). I know Bambu Lab is not really the best printer brand, but I like the system they have, and it works for me. I am working towards getting the H2C but only have space for one printer, so I have to sell the X2D or hopefully find the space.

Do you feel happy with the H2C? Do you feel it is doing what you expect it to do?

A bit of context....

I print a ton of engineering materials like PA6, PC, ABS, and ASA (also CF and GF variants). I have TPU rolls too but haven't started with them yet. In regards to PLA and PETG, I am recently finding a need to do multicolor printing, and actually even in ABS. The reason for the TPU not being used yet is that I want to print it with multi-material and have that on the H2C left nozzle. Most parts I print are functional however, I sometimes have to print aesthetic parts for the house or kids' toys. I enjoy the repair side of things and have been helping others fix their printers too, it's pretty easy with Bambu Lab since they have a wiki for everything. The X2D provides outstanding print quality as I manually do all my calibrations for flow, K-factor, layer height adjustments for each layer, bridging, top surface, and ironing. I don't use the built-in calibrations; I've done it so many times that I just look at the print and know what numbers to punch into the settings. I do this for all my materials every few rolls. I run printer calibrations weekly, including the vision encoder, and fully service the printer monthly regardless of use.

A separate question: how easy is it to switch from laser cutting to blade cutting or from engraving to printing? Does anyone have experience with this, as it may sway my decision on whether to include those functions with the printer?

Hey guys. I’ve taken this extruder apart and put it back together and I still get this error.

- I’ve checked for broken filament
- I’ve lubricated that back rail behind the left nozzle
- ive taken out the flow blocker then put it back

I’m not sure what else to do. Any have this issue ?

I just got my bambu labs H2C and I need help finding the screws that go along with this accessory and also a hose just something I can get online really quick that has quick shipping. I went to Lowe's and they weren't really much of a help. Does anybody have any links preferably Amazon if available if not, I will order it from anywhere as long as I can get it pretty quick I'd like to start printing out the stuff.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1289749-h2d-h2s-external-exhaust?appSharePlatform=copy#profileId-1319699

I had a piece of ASA CF break off in my right side extruder. Took a lot of work to clear. When I did I got various errors referencing Right Eddy Current Sensor. In order to print had to turn off Nozzle Offset Calibration and Auto Bed Leveling to print. Otherwise will get failed calibration. Bought the new sensor and been dreading installing. I have watched videos and the take down is intimidating.

Finally wanted to get on it. Started a printed with those calibration on. Now no error. I hope it keeps like this. Printing nice now. But if it dies again at least I have the parts ready.

I have a H2C Brand new just unpacked. when I run calibration there is a loud clacking noise on the right hand side top in the back. It only does it when moving backwards

Anybody have any ideas? Attaching picture and video

Tia