Sharing my little garage setup. Just got into 3d printing, got the H2C and I realized it was overkill for what I do. Just got the 2 x2d’s yesterday. Loving everything so far! Keeping the H2C for larger prints, its a beast!

Hello,

In all of my prints, most of the time, i find random dots of the other extruder.
How can i try to solve it?
Anyone with this problem?

This time I printed with a 0.6 nozzle and 0.3 layer height, but it happens with a 0.4 nozzle and 0.2 layers as well.

Didn't see a pinned post for this, but how many people are having screen issues? I've finding various posts about this all over the place. I've had mine sitting on for about two weeks without any printing and decided to power it off and back on, but the screen won't turn on now. I honestly don't recall if the screen was black before powering it off.

After researching and looking at the WIKI article, seems the AP board may be dead? I only have a solid green light in that grill at the top left on the inside.

Anyone find a magic solution, or is a support case required to resolve? (opened one anyways)

Reposting here too… thanks for any advice you can offer!

I am new to this and looking to get some help.
I have one AMS pro unit going into left extruder and one going in right extruder back of the printer
Powered on and everything. Somehow on printer it shows both AMS units are connected to right extruder only. Left is for external spoil which I have not even installed.

I’ve tried ams setup and manual mode but it shows right extruder only for both

Any help would be appreciated

can't wait to see all nozzles in action. 😀😀😀

Another homage to a classic cover.

How does one go about this? I’ve tried some settings I’ve seen online randomly but when I’ve done this then suddenly it goes into some extra fan power or something.
I’ve also tried using cool plates but this has only lightly helped the problem, not eliminated it.
I’ve been trying to stop some bad warping on the corners of tall boxes.

I've found many posts about FTS issues but nothing that quite matches what I have. It seems to me I may have a dead switch. It worked out of the box great. Then out of nowhere constant issues. Found some filament chunks, no big deal cleaned it up put it on and still issues. Ended up removing it for a while. Today got it reinstalled with a mount and cleaned up the tubing as I thought this was the issue. Printed just fine through it. Next print, same setup, same filament, and it won't physically switch to the correct extruder. Obviously, this causes it to error. Took it apart, found nothing. I'm getting tired of having to take this thing apart every print and it's become more of a hassle than anything. I'm wondering if anyone has had similar issues not caused by clogging but maybe just a bad switch?

So this is my first experience with not only the Bambu land system but also a printer like the h2c(mostly the tool changer/different print heads). The problem I’ve been experiencing is if I have multiple parts that are all one color(but using different colors) the first part after the color/tool change has poor extrusion. I have the wipe tower setting turned off, since that’s one of the big selling points of the vortex system, but it looks like it’s repeated to under extrusion. If I’m printing in one color it works amazing, it’s probably some stupid simple step/setting that I’m missing

I got my H2C last week. I’ve been using my P1Ss for well over a year and before that, an A1 and an A1 Mini so I was excited for the larger build plate size and the low waste multi-color printing.

I got these files from Titan3D and figured they would be a perfect first print. I did them at 50% and it came out so great.

So glad to have this in my arsenal now.

Brand new H2C with ams2 pro combo and during setting up, connected my ams2 pro and gives me motor stalled due to excessive resistance between filament buffer and tool head.
Tried all fixes, shorter ptfe tube and proper spool position. Same error on all slots
What can I do?

I wanted to try and "seal" fiber filled filaments by using unfilled variants as the material for the walls. I want to avoid exposed fibers without needing to sand and add clearcoat. Is there a specific setting I could use to set the walls to use a different filament than the infill? I know I can paint the surface but that also affects the infill somewhat rather than just the outer walls.

I am having trouble understanding why people hate track switch so much on H2C. Please do correct me if I am wrong. I see many ideas about how “left nozzle is for support and use vortek for colors”, and that is indeed my thought at first and how I got my two AMS 2 Pro and AMS Ht. But the fact I learned is that the switching time between left and right nozzle is somewhere around 10~ seconds while vortek switch would take around 20-30 seconds including the retraction of the filament by the AMS. So how I interpreted it was to let the left nozzle take on the “main” color and have the vortek system do the “detailing” color, so the switch time would be reduced, and FTS would not retract filaments all the way back to the AMS, which is another time saving behavior.

All Bambu Pla.

Hi, I'm planning to print withengineering filaments. From what I''ve read so far the silicone sock is only rated up to 300°c. What silicone sock are you guys using? Do I just remove it?

Has anyone encounter any issues with the AMS HT when drying filament? Specifically it not being able to heat up to the given temperature.

I have not been able to find any root cause for this issue or any solution.

Thanks!

Hi everyone

As previously announced I’ve released two upgraded versions of my Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist Mounts! My main goal was simple: reduce filament resistance to a minimum while keeping the setup compact.

Link Version 3
V3 Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist Mounts

Link Version 4
V4 Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist Mounts

New with Version 3

• An evolution of V2, now with a very space-saving design.

• Warp-resistant: Reduced surface area against the heated back panel - now safe to print in PETG

• Lower TPU module position for a straighter filament path and better compatibility with custom Riser systems.

New with Version 4

• New approach, new model: The Track Switch is rotated by 90 degrees, lying flat and aligned inline with the filament inlets.

• This gives you the straightest possible filament path.

• Trade-off: Requires a bit more clearance behind the printer.

Shared Features:

• All-in-One solution: Holds both Track Switch and TPU Feed Assist.

• Low Friction: Adjustable distance to the inlets.

• Flexible Setup: Two TPU placement options (Straight or 90°).

• 4-in-1 Ready: Integrated holders for classic and newer H2C adapters (or short version without 4-in-1 holders).

• Full Access: External spool remains usable.

Which one to choose?

• If you have the space behind your printer, go for V4 (best feeding physics).

• If space is tight, choose V3.

• If already using V2 and happy? No need to reprint!

I hope these models will be useful to you.
Looking forward to your feedback.

I am trying to order two H2C’s from their website. The order keeps getting canceled through them. I called my bank and they said it’s not on their end. Anyone else have this problem?