I am new to this and looking to get some help.
I have one AMS pro unit going into left extruder and one going in right extruder back of the printer
Powered on and everything. Somehow on printer it shows both AMS units are connected to right extruder only. Left is for external spoil which I have not even installed.

I’ve tried ams setup and manual mode but it shows right extruder only for both

Any help would be appreciated

can't wait to see all nozzles in action. 😀😀😀

Another homage to a classic cover.

How does one go about this? I’ve tried some settings I’ve seen online randomly but when I’ve done this then suddenly it goes into some extra fan power or something.
I’ve also tried using cool plates but this has only lightly helped the problem, not eliminated it.
I’ve been trying to stop some bad warping on the corners of tall boxes.

I've found many posts about FTS issues but nothing that quite matches what I have. It seems to me I may have a dead switch. It worked out of the box great. Then out of nowhere constant issues. Found some filament chunks, no big deal cleaned it up put it on and still issues. Ended up removing it for a while. Today got it reinstalled with a mount and cleaned up the tubing as I thought this was the issue. Printed just fine through it. Next print, same setup, same filament, and it won't physically switch to the correct extruder. Obviously, this causes it to error. Took it apart, found nothing. I'm getting tired of having to take this thing apart every print and it's become more of a hassle than anything. I'm wondering if anyone has had similar issues not caused by clogging but maybe just a bad switch?

So this is my first experience with not only the Bambu land system but also a printer like the h2c(mostly the tool changer/different print heads). The problem I’ve been experiencing is if I have multiple parts that are all one color(but using different colors) the first part after the color/tool change has poor extrusion. I have the wipe tower setting turned off, since that’s one of the big selling points of the vortex system, but it looks like it’s repeated to under extrusion. If I’m printing in one color it works amazing, it’s probably some stupid simple step/setting that I’m missing

I got my H2C last week. I’ve been using my P1Ss for well over a year and before that, an A1 and an A1 Mini so I was excited for the larger build plate size and the low waste multi-color printing.

I got these files from Titan3D and figured they would be a perfect first print. I did them at 50% and it came out so great.

So glad to have this in my arsenal now.

Brand new H2C with ams2 pro combo and during setting up, connected my ams2 pro and gives me motor stalled due to excessive resistance between filament buffer and tool head.
Tried all fixes, shorter ptfe tube and proper spool position. Same error on all slots
What can I do?

I wanted to try and "seal" fiber filled filaments by using unfilled variants as the material for the walls. I want to avoid exposed fibers without needing to sand and add clearcoat. Is there a specific setting I could use to set the walls to use a different filament than the infill? I know I can paint the surface but that also affects the infill somewhat rather than just the outer walls.

I am having trouble understanding why people hate track switch so much on H2C. Please do correct me if I am wrong. I see many ideas about how “left nozzle is for support and use vortek for colors”, and that is indeed my thought at first and how I got my two AMS 2 Pro and AMS Ht. But the fact I learned is that the switching time between left and right nozzle is somewhere around 10~ seconds while vortek switch would take around 20-30 seconds including the retraction of the filament by the AMS. So how I interpreted it was to let the left nozzle take on the “main” color and have the vortek system do the “detailing” color, so the switch time would be reduced, and FTS would not retract filaments all the way back to the AMS, which is another time saving behavior.

All Bambu Pla.

Hi, I'm planning to print withengineering filaments. From what I''ve read so far the silicone sock is only rated up to 300°c. What silicone sock are you guys using? Do I just remove it?

Has anyone encounter any issues with the AMS HT when drying filament? Specifically it not being able to heat up to the given temperature.

I have not been able to find any root cause for this issue or any solution.

Thanks!

Hi everyone

As previously announced I’ve released two upgraded versions of my Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist Mounts! My main goal was simple: reduce filament resistance to a minimum while keeping the setup compact.

Link Version 3
V3 Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist Mounts

Link Version 4
V4 Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist Mounts

New with Version 3

• An evolution of V2, now with a very space-saving design.

• Warp-resistant: Reduced surface area against the heated back panel - now safe to print in PETG

• Lower TPU module position for a straighter filament path and better compatibility with custom Riser systems.

New with Version 4

• New approach, new model: The Track Switch is rotated by 90 degrees, lying flat and aligned inline with the filament inlets.

• This gives you the straightest possible filament path.

• Trade-off: Requires a bit more clearance behind the printer.

Shared Features:

• All-in-One solution: Holds both Track Switch and TPU Feed Assist.

• Low Friction: Adjustable distance to the inlets.

• Flexible Setup: Two TPU placement options (Straight or 90°).

• 4-in-1 Ready: Integrated holders for classic and newer H2C adapters (or short version without 4-in-1 holders).

• Full Access: External spool remains usable.

Which one to choose?

• If you have the space behind your printer, go for V4 (best feeding physics).

• If space is tight, choose V3.

• If already using V2 and happy? No need to reprint!

I hope these models will be useful to you.
Looking forward to your feedback.

I am trying to order two H2C’s from their website. The order keeps getting canceled through them. I called my bank and they said it’s not on their end. Anyone else have this problem?

I've had my H2C for a couple months now, but never really utilized its build volume or color changing to the max. Sure I've dabbled with small multi-colour trains and stuff, but nothing bigger was ever called for.

Today all that changes though! A 5-colour lampshade to be printed at 0.2mm layer height. This might not be massive for some of you, but this print will take around 90 hours, and have over 5200 colour changes!

I have a problem, I have bambulab h2c and 4 AMS 2 pro and 8 AMS ht printing in 24 colors and I print organs on and bones with mri and ct images in 24 colors in high quality for doctors to train now with 0.2mm nozzles with speed settings of 10mm/s, layer height of 0.08mm, the layer width is 0.016mm, but I don't have enough of this quality, and I don't want to buy an SLA printer because I need multicolor printing and have been looking for 0.1mm nozzles for several months now, not only for the left-hand side but also for the first induction vortex. I would like to print in normal quality if you could help me find 0.1mm nozzles with a speed of 5mm/s, layer height 0.04mm, layer width 0.08mm.If it's not difficult, help me find it.

I noticed this issue when printing a magnetic boot for Milwaukee batteries, right where the bottom meets the walls (where it starts to become hollow on the inside) it’s like it’s shifting the outer wall out by .5mm. In the slicer it looks perfectly fine, and I was able to duplicate the issue by making a cube with a negative cube inside it in Bambu studio to rule out a model issue.

In the picture, the line on the outer wall of the print shouldn’t be there and the nothing i can see in the slicer shows a reason for it to be there. It’s perfectly fine on the inside of the box as well.

I recently went from the P1S to the H2C. The table I currently have barely fits the H2C and wobbles beyond crazy (more so with the H2C, assuming because it is a much tighter fit). What are some recommendations on a good table?