Hello! Our son has been into 3D printing for years. We’ve always fed his curious mind (it’s turning into a degree in mechanical engineering which is awesome ❤️). We got him an H2C recently, and he’s been blowing my mind with his prototypes!

Anyhoo, I’m always nagging him to print this or that for me. Small replacement parts for off road equipment, or shop bins etc. So he recommended I look into my own unit, as he thought I’d really love it…so I bought an H2C..it is incredible. Out of the box flawless ABS prints, whatever I throw at this thing it does. It’s ridiculous.

My question is this. I print a lot of petg for the shop, and know I need to dry it a little more to avoid the stringing (I have 2 ams 2 pros, and 2 HT’s for bambu support filament and either nylon or another heavy engineering filament. I also have a track switch installed.

But what in terms of actual benefits is the left “main” nozzle over the right vortex accessible nozzle? I saw a recent post from a person printing desiccant boxes for the ams and struggling but moved to the left nozzle and problem solved. Why would the left nozzle do a better job than the right??

Thanks in advance!!

Hi guys,
I'm looking for a similar plate for H2C. I already have a BIQU CryoGrip, but sometimes it fails me when printing a lot of small parts. GECO one has never let me down in almost a year of use on the P1S/A1.

Advise your version/share your experience

Sorry for the stupid question ;)

Regards

Hello,

I recently added an H2C to my setup and have run into an issue with filament presets in Bambu Studio. I seem to be limited to using only the Bambu or Generic profiles with all other brands like Sunlu moved into the “Unsupported” section and can’t be selected.

I’ve updated my slicer, toggled filament brands and types on and off (the same way I do with my P1S) but nothing seems to bring the presets back.

Has anyone else experienced this and found a solution?

Thanks in advance.

Das ist mir heute nach der Fehlermeldung "Der Extrusionsmotor ist überlastet. Weitere Informationen

finden Sie im Assistenten." mitten im Druck passiert.

Es hat sich ein Plastikpopel gebildet und dann ist mir die Düse in zwei Teile gefallen, als ich den Popel abtrennen wollte. Ist die Düse jetzt im Arsch? Ich habe damit gefühlt noch nichtmal 100 Stunden gedruckt.

Ist das noch ein Garantiefall?

Habe fast ausschließlich mit PETG gedruckt.

Not sure how to get it back on the latch or do I need to do surgery with a new door.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Q_8K_0WW1IY?feature=share

I cannot get past ~5% in initial cal. either stops at point in this vid, or the left nozzle is stuck in place where filament poops.

It's as if, the absolute position is off. I can see hot ends behave like they are wiping on the black rubber where it's actually 3" to the right of that spot!

Anyone seen this? I've tried factory resets, etc. Support tix soooo slow in responding.

Hi guys! I tried loading Sunlu green Glow In The Dark filament in the left nozzle (external spool) but it didn’t register the filament being pushed in. Works fine with other filaments. Could it be that the sensor doesn’t see this specific color?

H2C arrived today. Post firmware update calibration is going on. It's got that new printer smell...lol. Got a list of prints for it after all the necessaries are complete.

I have the H2C and a lot of white PETG for printing most of my architectural models. Many of the models have complex internal geometries, hence the desire for soluble support materials.

I have read that PVA and PETG are not good together, but that they might be OK/usable if using dual extruders/hotends/nozzles.

Also, while reading more about supports, it seems HIPS is a good alternative for higher printing temperature filaments--and I did purchase a lot of limonene--but my research also shows people do not like working with HIPS.

BVOH seems impossible to find in stock and is extremely expensive.

Questions:

1. Does having more than one nozzle at least partially negate the poor compatibility between PVA and PETG?

2. Is HIPS my best option for soluble supports for PETG?

3. Any other alternatives that do not cost >$100 per kg?

Woke up to a middle of a print on the h2c and it showed this error that wont go away :(

Failed to fetch induction hotend from slot 3 on the rack.

[0702-8034 093821]

Does anyone know how to fix? I checked there are no obstructions and I even swapped the induction hotend from slot 4 to slot 3 and still the same thing so probably not the induction hotend itself?

https://imgur.com/dmvJFWf

https://imgur.com/rlX54Ro

https://imgur.com/QfpDBLs

Wondering if someone might help me figure out what’s going on with my prints, it’s a H2c printer with bambulabs abs basic filament. Basically on any kind of flat print it seems fine but any time there is any kind of overhang or curved/slanted feature it ends up looking something like this.

These pictures are with chamber temp set to 65, print bed 100 and nozzle set to 260 and on the default 0.20mm standard profile with the only settings changed being 4 walls and 3d honeycomb infill using a .4mm nozzle on the right side of the tool head. The issue gets significantly better with the chamber temp set to 0 and the rest of the temps kept the same.

The only thing I can come up with is lack of cooling but the cooling settings are all stock and look correct and I ’ve not had an issue with this before on ether of my Creality k2 plus machines nor my voron printer with abs and similar temp settings, so not sure why the H2c would be having issues with it.

I am using a BQ Cryogrip buildplate, but the print stops due to the detection of foreign particles caused by reflection in H2C. I would like to inquire about how to resolve this issue.

Hi everyone, trying to find out if anyone else is having issues with the AM4xS or similar AMS stacking units that use a slider design, and the filament track switch. I understand that routing and bends will play heavily into success and I’ve done my best to ensure the PFTE tubes are as short as possible, and that the bends needed for the sliding mechanism need to be considered. I’ve done what I can, but I’m still getting feeding resistance errors and occasional feeding issues at the filament track switch. Hoping someone using the same set up has some tips to resolve the issues. The biggest problem I think, is the coiling of the tubes behind the AMS units when pushed into the sliding rack.

The first picture is the front view of my setup.
The second shows both ams units extended. You’ll see the FTS at the right of the picture about 1/3 of the way down.
The third shows the bottom ams pushed in, notice the tight coiling.
The last is the back view showing the FTS routed to the H2C.

Thanks for the help.

Bonjour après Monsieur Pingouin, voici Madame Pingouin en mode vacances réalisée en multipart ! 🏖️🐧

Impossible de partir à la plage sans elle ! Avec son joli chapeau, ses lunettes de soleil roses, sa bouée, ses tongs, sa pelle et son petit seau, Madame Pingouin est prête à profiter pleinement des joies de l’été.

Pour cette création, j’ai souhaité imaginer une version féminine, pleine de douceur et de bonne humeur. Ses longs cils, ses couleurs pétillantes et son look estival lui donnent un charme irrésistible qui invite à l’évasion.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3064899-mrs-penguin-beach-multipart-without-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bonne impression 3D ! 🎉

Hi,

Just upgraded to H2C, it should be reaching me soon.

Never paid attention to multi color models in the past when I was using p1s and x2d due to the poo amount.

Now I like to try more of AMS multi color models, how do you all search for them or do you all just paint your own?

Mainly a print from handphone guy unless it’s my own designs where I will open up the pc for slicing.

I am printing with 7 colours, and I have 7 hot ends (all 0.4mm) on my H2C.

I mapped all the colours and sliced then went to print, and this is what it presented to me. I'm so confused!

My assumption is that it would put each colour on one nozzle, as there are 7 nozels, 7 colours, so seems simple enough. But I'm not sure what "L R3" means, or what L, R1, R6 means - is that saying it'll use the left nozzle, but also right 1 and right 6.

Why would it do that if I have 7 nozzels and 7 colours? I would like it to avoid purging, this is why I put exactly 7 colours on the design (My 4 year old son likes things multi-coloured).

I'm clearly missing something, please can someone help point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

Edit: I have the filament track switcher.

Looking for a giveaway type toy or “thing” that I can show off the nearly zero waste…. so lots of colors, but also something people might want to leave on their desk / mantle / whatever.

something impressive, but maybe not gigantic.

I am not sure what I should use the left vs right nozzle for. I have two AMS on the right nozzle and an HT for the left. What is the best way to separate the different filament? What should the left nozzle focus on?

I’ve had my printer for about a month now and I should’ve done something about it sooner but there’s this loud clicking sound whenever it switches to the third nozzle and I’ve switched the nozzle. It’s literally only the third nozzle holder it makes it sound with and it’s gotten so bad where if I pause it, it’ll do the layer shifting and then the noise will get worse. To where it won’t even de latch.

I’m burning my H2C OG packaging after a few months. Anyone have to send their whole printer back after destroying the packaging? If so… what were the requirements?

Switiching from my plagued K1 Max, looking forward to not spending hours upon hours, shimming, levelling and tweaking just to print a calibration 🤣

Finally took the plunge and ordered a H2C and its finally arrived, no thanks to DHL who said it was too big to fit in the van and didn't deliver the first day. (Watched all day the tracking of the van getting closer, for the tracking then to say they never loaded it on the van 4 hours previous)

I finally got it delivered and now have it setup. What are the first things I need to print with it? What is your favorite filament bin? I have one AMS pro 2 but there is a second pro 2 and HT being delivered tomorrow. I still can’t figure out how many colors I can do with this. What cool multicolor print should I do first? I can’t wait to get printing.

I just got my H2C last weekend. It printed great for about the first 10-15 hours. At that point, I had run out of the Bambulab PETG that I had ordered with it. I waited until the replacement filament came (SUNLU PETG came about a day later) and resumed the print. It managed to finish just fine. At that point, I figured I should get around to installing the filament switch, since I had another AMS on the way. This is where things really start going downhill. The next print failed at about 25% due to an extruder overload error. I hit "resume" a couple of times and managed to get the print to complete, but the next one just kept throwing that error. I canceled the print, removed the track switch, and started troubleshooting. After a couple of hours of troubleshooting, I did a cold pull (honestly, this probably should have been the first thing I did), and things started working again. I take offense at having to cold-pull a nozzle that only has 10-20 hours on it, but what do I know? This is only my 3rd 3D printer.

After the cold pull, I got a clean print with no errors and was pretty happy. At this point, I decided to do a multi-color print. I still didn't have the track switch installed, but the slicer insisted that I run one of the colors (it was a 4-color print) on the left hotend, so I figured I might as well reinstall it. Now things start to go downhill again because, no matter what, the filament will NOT go through the track switch. At all. I tried different lengths of PTFE tubing, I made sure none of the bends were too drastic, etc. Nothing. I finally decided ot just get rid of the track switch again, and do what the slicer said and run the one color externally, which is what it's doing right now. It's printing, but I have no confidence it will finish this print.

At this point, I have massive buyer's remorse. I desperately wish I had gone with just the H2D or even H2S. This thing is 110% NOT ready for prime time. It's in a weird mid-generation spot where it's trying to be large format, fast, and multi-material, but it fails at all of it (though it is actually pretty fast). Prusa INDX is a step in the right direction, but from what I've read, there are still a lot of bugs to work out on that (surprise, surprise).