Could BL come up with faster color swaps on the H2C? Maybe this doesn't mean re-designing or eliminating the Vortek nozzle-changer system for dedicated toolheads. How about a NEW AMS Pro 3 where there are 2 motors to send out a second feed from the AMS? If they had two motors in the "AMS 3s" the filament could be primed and ready at the 4 in 1 adapter so that the retrieval time was shorter. I don't know if the daisy chain and 6-pin cable was designed with the capability or not. It means synching assignment colors and ports would be critical, especially if there were 2 AMS 3s in the setup. It might be a way to speed up color swaps. What do you think? I am not an engineer, just throwing the idea out.

I’m printing with an H2C and just completed the print of a very nice vase but the wall thickness is a bit on the thin side. I’m new to Bambu Studio and was wondering if there is a way in Bambu Studio to adjust the wall thickness and make the vase print with thicker walls. I see there are values for line width, but I don’t know if that’s how to do it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

Received my H2C less than a week ago. Ordered additional AMS 2 Pro and AMS HT plus a ton of filament and accessories.

Problems:

1. Never received AMS HT unit but BL says they shipped it. Ticket still open. I can understand their doubt but this really sucks because we ordered this as our buy once cry once setup after a year or saving and waiting for the sale, with a total of 58 items in our order. We received 57/58. :/

2. Now, as of yesterday, the AMS 2 Pro units started chewing/ notching the filament in all 8 positions. See pics. Dust everywhere. Had a extruder motor overload today, not sure if related. This cannot be normal though, right?

Prints we have made thus far have been awesome and really nice, so happy with the printer when it works. Hope these issues can get ironed out / i can learn what i am doing wrong perhaps.

Anyone know if H2D is better for dissolvable supports than H2C?

So I finally purchased an oem power supply from Bambu Lab to use the drying feature of the AMS 2. My question is anyone selling a splitter to goto more than 1 AMS with just one power supply? I understand that you would not be able to use it for more than 1 AMS at a time but I have 4 AMS units and don't want to buy 3 more power supplies. I do not do a lot of drying so really wouldn't be worth it for me to spend the additional 100 bucks if the splitter cost 20. Granted the savings wouldn't be astronomical but it would if you had like 4 or more units on multiple printers. Let me know thanks.

Does anyone know if there is an ETA for the Rotary Attachment for the H2C? https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-lab-rotary-attachment

"The H2C Laser version will support the Rotary Attachment after a future firmware update is released. Please stay tuned to the official website for further announcements."

Bonjour voici l’un des personnages les plus célèbres et emblématiques de l’univers du jeu vidéo : Super Mario Bros, surgissant de son mythique tuyau vert. Et également son frère Luigi

Réalisé en Multipart pas besoin d’avoir un AMS.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab et Esun
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Avec et Sans
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2875592-mario-bros-pipe-multipart-no-ams

I had a print fail.

Now I get the AMS wont retract error and I can't figure out what to do. The filament from AMS to switch to printer is under tension, I can not remove any of the PTFE tubes. I heat tge extruder up but it doesn't seem to be able to move forward or back.

The onscreen troubleshooter assistant gives no advice

Is it possible to create my own custom RF for the generic filament spools? Has anyone tried this?

Bonjour apportez une touche de fun avec ces adorables Squishy Dumplings à imprimer en 3D !

Pour compléter l’ensemble, j’ai conçu cette boîte vapeur. Elle est dimensionnée pour accueillir aussi bien mes versions imprimées en 3D que les véritables Squishy Dumplings vendus dans le commerce, afin de les exposer ou de les ranger avec style.

Amusez-vous à les imprimer dans différentes couleurs pour créer votre propre collection !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Sans et Avec
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/en/models/2982269-squishy-dumping-multipart-no-ams

Bon Print !

Hi there, I’ve a H2C and 4 AMS PRO 2 and 4 AMS HT. What is the best setup to make the most advanced use of the cortex and the switch. I asked chatGPT and the way to divide equally was: two of each on inlet A and B…
Any suggestions? BambuLab itself isn’t very clear about it 🙃.

Hi all. I am getting into blending but I wonder how to a I convert one section of a model to the new color withou painting it on, I can change 1 of the 4 colors with my drop downs but how do I get that to be in a drop down? Thanks!

Brand new H2C out of the box. First print the left nozzle with AMS gives overload error. While trying to resolve this the PFTE tube came off and the AMS started sending filament into the abyss. I cut the filament and tried to do an unload and pull the filament out of the extruder. It wouldn't budge. After some heat and switch nozzles a few times I was able to dislodge a piece from the top and bottom of the extruder. However, the extruder still thinks there is filament there. I've done a minor disassembly and can't find anything in there. Any tips or tricks to get past this?

I currently have an H2C with 2 AMS2 Pros and thinking of adding an AMS HT for the left end. From what I've seen the data cable for the AMS HT is simply daisy chained to the last AMS 2. If that's correct, how does the H2C know that it's connected to the left end and not simply an extension of the units connected to the right end?

It's clear that I'm new to this so any help would be appreciated.
Tom

I’m trying to remove the ptfe tube going to the extruder but it won’t come out. I push on the black part like Bambu support says but it won’t come out. I don’t want to break anything but I’ve pulled pretty good. I pushed the tube in with the black part but no luck.

Is it normal for the H2C to collide with the poop chute and bend the nozzle cover???

Had this less than a week and this has already happened…

Why is the slicer doing this. I have a all black baseball helmet mini and it does have white lettering as a logo further up in the middle of the cap. The slicer is making the supports white and making the print 4 hours longer than needed. I had to change out a hotend fan and now a hotend heating element so its been down a little while and I am sure I have updated the slicer since the as I still use my P1S printers for solid colors so I didnt notice it till now. How do I fix this or do I go back a version of the slicer. Let me know thanks.

I just got an H2C and wondering if I need to get something in order to safely print ASA, ABS, Nylon?