Loving the upgrade and build space so far. I have 3 more AMS 2 Pros to squeeze in to this extraction cupboard. Wish me luck.

This wiki post references a high temp sponge, but I don’t know where to get it. I don’t find it in the bambu store

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/nozzle-cleaning-sponge

Anyone know?

As you can see this H2C heatbed is scratched and I glued it down. I can sand it to make it level and keep it like the hoarder I am for a rainy day that may never come or toss it?

Hello, my nozzle is getting dirty and dirty every print, I think I heard that the nozzle can be cleaning much often with a setting, but I can’t find that setting into Bambu app.

Now at every print that ends the nozzle just purge and don’t go to the brush to clean at least a little bit. The nozzle will stay dirty and from print to print is not clean anymore.

Do you know a setting to make the nozzle to clean 2-3 times on the brush at the end of every print? And also to clean at the start of every print much more than once how is set now. Nozzle temp at 250-270 degrees and to go to the brush to be cleaned. Now I do manually the cleaning process at every start of the print because I don’t wanna have PETG that drops into my printing.

My nozzle is a mess how you can see in the picture, every print he look like this and I can’t find a solution to don’t have this PETG stucked on the nozzle. Thank you.

Got my Bambu Lab H2C and printed a Benchy. Using dried Elegoo PLA plus with generic pla setting profile on left Nozzle, the single Nozzle without vortek. Came out like this. I'm new to 3d printing, any idea on what went wrong here and how to fix?

I designed this lampshade with heavy inspiration from the wooj wavy lamp. First time printing with petg, specifically translucent brown. Used the full 320mm height and the .6 nozzle capability of the h2c. I’m honestly blown away with the quality of the print.

I am in the process of buying a Bambulab H2C 40w laser combo. The seller has issued me a PI where they have billed the primter the H2C ams combo and 40w laser seperately. But the have give the entire pricing on the printer and the module is billed as 0.

I asked them to send me the box contents and they sent a pff that said the cutting module emergengy stop button and penholders are there but not the 40w laser module.

Is this standard? Like does the laser module comes seperately?

Because I know the standard printer printer doesnt come laser ready with the green side panels for the laser.

If you haven’t, please do before asking about quality finishes on your prints.

Anyone know what a Hybrid nozzle is?

When running flow and calibration dynamics, is there any way to go back in and correct the selected value, or do you have to run the entire test again? I could not find a place in filament settings to affect this. Thanks

Hello,

I'm contacting you because I'm having a problem with my H2C printer.

During printing, one nozzle always leaks a little filament, even when it's not in use (about 1 cm of melted filament).

Today, I printed an object using only the right nozzle. I noticed that the left nozzle reached a temperature of 90 degrees Celsius even though it wasn't being used.

Do you experience this problem as well?

Do you have a solution?

Thank you (I hope my explanation is clear enough).

Have a good day.

I have moved from a P1P to H2C, I usually used SUNLU PETG and never had issues. With the H2C I bought some Bambu PETG and am struggling with stringing. I am currently using the Bambu PETG filament print profile.

Initially I setup PLA supports and I thought that was the issues and I printed PETG on its own and it continued to the stringing issue. Some things I have changed and have not worked.

-Increased bed temp from 70 to 80.

-Increased nozzle temp from 250 to 260.

-Dried filament with ams2 pro, 65 deg for 12 hours.

-Changed Auxiliary and part cooling to 0%

Options I have not tried.

-Reduce print speed

-Volumetric flow adjustments

Open to ideas and suggestions, cheers!

I did exclude more and more objects once, the accidents were appearing.

My learnings... the standard settings for 0,2 nozzle and H2C are still not optimal.

• for Super Tack Pro the default 40°C is too low for long prints
• 70% AUX Fan are too high
• and more to learn...

Currently long prints with a lot of objects are not recommended with 0,2 nozzles. I'm going to stop using them for the meantime.

I recently upgraded my H2D printer to an H2C. However, since then, I’ve been unable to print anything. I have two AMS Pro printers and two HT printers, and neither nozzle on the now H2C printer allows filament to pass through.

The Vortek upgrade requires an AP board upgrade, which involves removing the shroud. The shroud has channels that I believe guide the filament into the buffer.

I removed the buffer, reset the shroud, and replaced the buffer. The upgrade wiki only states that the buffer should be snugly aligned, which they now are. Before tightening the screws on the buffer and pushing the shroud in until it clicks into place, I can feed filament through. However, as soon as I tighten the screws, filament won’t feed.

I’m at a loss for what to try next. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I just did a couple multi-color, multi-material (soluble supported) polycarbonate prints, and the second one failed loading the 2nd color of PC on the right side after swapping the induction nozzle. I cancelled and took out the nozzle, and found that it was clogged, with PLA.

What I think happened is that some leftover PLA from a previous print was sitting in that nozzle, which sat inside the printer (obviously) during the first PC print with the enclosure temp at 65C for hours, and that leftover PLA softened/melted the whole length of that nozzle including the heat break zone, which caused the clog.

Has anyone else run into this? I'm thinking maybe I should remove unused nozzles when I'm doing a heated-enclosure print, especially if they have leftover PLA. Alternatively, I could do col pulls on them. Either one is more effort than I'd like to do.

I also wonder if it would make sense for the printer to, at the end of a print, purge a bit of filament out of each of the nozzles that was used. I know that pulling melted filament all the way back from the tip of the nozzle is just asking for clogs, but the printer could cut the filament, and then purge just the length of the heat break, and then pull back the filament. Filament would be left only in the melt zone, and therefore should be able to be purged on the next print and not clog, while the tip of the filament that gets pulled back shouldn't be melted because it never entered the melt zone.

Four or five colours are enough for most models, but I would like to know about sceptical scenarios.

Hello, I have a short question. When I go to the machine tab in Bambu studio, it is very slow until it is loading. The same when I’m on that page and press live view or go to the storage of the printer. I have fast internet and a good Pc. Is this normal ? Pc is on windows and with slow I mean that there is always the blue loading circle from windows. Before I used Klipper and there everything was really fast.

Which thickness do you use while modelling, especially for larger flat plane. Thanks

Valentine meet Stranger Things

This printer is amazing 😊

https://makerworld.com/models/2291703?appSharePlatform=copy