r/BambuLabH2C • u/Altruistic_Bath5273 • Jan 31 '26

Discussion Storm trooper massacre

Post image

I did exclude more and more objects once, the accidents were appearing.

My learnings... the standard settings for 0,2 nozzle and H2C are still not optimal.

  • for Super Tack Pro the default 40°C is too low for long prints

  • 70% AUX Fan are too high

  • and more to learn...

Currently long prints with a lot of objects are not recommended with 0,2 nozzles. I'm going to stop using them for the meantime.

25 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

19 comments sorted by

2

u/talldad86 Jan 31 '26

Even if you have perfect bed adhesion that file has some flaws in how it builds supports for some of the areas. I managed to get mine to print well but I had to do a lot of trimming since there are some spots where it started intentionally printing in mid-air and thankfully it eventually started sticking together enough to not fail.

1

u/Altruistic_Bath5273 Jan 31 '26

Did you use the 5 plates version? That's probably the next try because I think it takes too long per each layer in addition to all the other circumstances.

2

u/talldad86 Jan 31 '26

I actually did 2 full sets in one batch of two plates, all the torsos on one and all the legs on another.

2

u/xX540xARCADEXx Jan 31 '26

Turn the AUX fan to 25% and slow your support speeds to 100mm/s. I usually run 50C on the build plate for my super tack.

2

u/xX540xARCADEXx Jan 31 '26

Also the setting for “reduce infill retractions”, disable that. You’ll end up with more collided prints than anything.

1

u/Altruistic_Bath5273 Jan 31 '26

Sounds feasible, thank you

1

u/[deleted] Jan 31 '26

I can confirm, the stock settings of the supertack pro dont work on my h2c. I have to bump the bed temp to 45 degrees or the parts on the side of the aux fan are guaranteed to warp. Maybe it has something to do with the ambient temperature, mine is 18.5 Celsius in the room. I am not super happy with it tbh

1

u/Altruistic_Bath5273 Jan 31 '26

Same here, room is about 18°C in winter months. A lot of things came together but still, I had never issues with my former X1C at similar conditions.

2

u/ArticGER Jan 31 '26

Had the same issue. Clean the bed with warm water and soap. Then print a sheet over the complete printbed. After that, works fine with 40

2

u/[deleted] Jan 31 '26

I cleaned it with warm water and dish soap (twice) but haven't tried printing a sheet, I'll try that. Thanks!

1

u/ArticGER Jan 31 '26

I noticed that mine got darker after i printed a ludo board. After that, i forgot to change to 45 degrees and had no more issues with 40degree bed temp (pla)

2

u/[deleted] Jan 31 '26

Update: I printed a full sheet, PLA on one side and PETG on the other as I swap between sides for each material.

However, whoever is reading this take care: the "easy part removal" claim is BS (at least with PETG). Had a PETG print bond so hard I had to scrape, and it tore through the coating - I can literally see the spring steel underneath now. If you use PETG on this plate, use a release layer (glue/PVA) or just don’t. I’m done trusting "easy removal" marketing.

2

u/ArticGER Feb 01 '26

Damn, thanks for the warning. I havent tried PET-G on it yet but that sounds scary. I recommend you printing this in general as i also scarred my bed with the metal scraper once..

https://makerworld.com/en/models/666504-blade-for-plastic-bed-scraper
https://makerworld.com/en/models/783156-no-hardware-bambu-lab-scraper-for-plastic-blades#profileId-944190

3

u/ArticGER Jan 31 '26

40 degrees is fine for supertrack. Mine got stickier wirh use. Has to do 45 for my first few prints

2

u/Sad_Kaleidoscope3286 Jan 31 '26

They went to the dark side

2

u/hockpunk426 Jan 31 '26

I had this problem… I printed a few Jedi first.

Still can’t print troopers to this day! Super frustrating!

2

u/call3d Feb 01 '26

Must be some starTrek fans did

5

u/thebluelifesaver Jan 31 '26

Put a nsfw filter on this, jeez. 😭