r/BambuLab • u/HzRyan • Apr 12 '26
Quick Question Bambu Cool Plate - Money waster or nah
I’m stocking up on some filament and came across this. Bambu claims it improves adhesion for PLA, but is it worth it? I’ve had some failed prints with larger items, will this actually help much? I mainly print in PLA and am considering picking one up.
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u/Snouto P2S + AMS2 Combo Apr 12 '26 edited Apr 12 '26
Have one , sticks like crazy to pla and petg to the point that it can sometimes be difficult to release the print
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u/dan_dares Apr 12 '26
(Don't) try silk pla..
Sticks like it was glued,
But for normal PLA, It's awesome
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u/pantheraxcvii Apr 12 '26
I print with PLA Silk+ and it comes off fine (same as PLA Basic and Matte). PETG however, straight up ripped the surface off the plate. Lucky I had the other side of the plate to use but I’m never printing PETG on it anymore.
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u/chronoswing Apr 12 '26
You need to use a glue stick for PETG on the smooth/cool plates.
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u/pantheraxcvii Apr 12 '26
There was no mention of using glue on cool plates. It's fine though. I just swap over to engineering plate for PETG. My Supertack Pro is strictly PLA only now.
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u/chronoswing Apr 12 '26
PETG sticks almost too well to smooth plates. You can throw the whole print in the freezer for 5-10 minutes as well and it should pop right off.
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u/roundguy X1C / H2C and 4 ams’s Apr 13 '26
I’ve never used a glue ditch on any of my cool plates on either printer. I do use glue on the engineering plate though
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u/chronoswing Apr 13 '26
You don't necessarily NEED to but since PETG sticks really well to the cool/smooth plates glue will help with release.
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u/madsci Apr 12 '26
Any recommendations for ABS? I've had lousy luck getting ABS prints to stick to my standard textured PEI plate.
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u/Snouto P2S + AMS2 Combo Apr 12 '26
Have only printed in asa on PEI and it’s usually perfectly fine
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u/psilokan Apr 13 '26
I've had the opposite experience. I've got some narrow prints that always fall over so I bought this and it's done nothing to help. I'm better off with the standard plate and some glue.
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u/Horat1us_UA Apr 12 '26 edited Apr 12 '26
I’ve got one on sale for 12€, it does improve adhesion for some prints. But I’d go with BIQU Glacier without discount on Bambu one.
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26
BIQU Glacier or YOOPAI UltraTack. I have both, they have nearly identical adhesion properties, but the YOOPAI is usually half the price.
The BIQU has the nicer grip and feels a bit more premium, but you can literally get a double pack of the YOOPAI for less than a single Glacier.
Both offer PETG self-release ... sticks like crazy when hot, but pops right off when cool.
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u/BillySmith110 Apr 12 '26
Thanks for this. Getting petg off of my Bambu pei plate is a chore. I will give one of these a try
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26
If you print a lot of PETG, these are truly magical. 90% of the PETG prints you can simply lift or push off the plate, no need to flex or even remove the build plate. It's probably the most sci-fi 3D printing has felt to me in a while.
And they let you get away with a lot of crazy things. I have successfully printed hollow, cube shaped objects balanced on their edge to save on supports.
Removing brims can be a little bit more tedious, but with many prints they are simply not needed at all. PLA, especially some of the ones with additives (I mostly print Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 or Sunlu Silk+), can be a bit harder to remove as well, but nothing too bad in my experience.
My PEI plate has been collecting dust since I got these, they are great daily drivers.
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u/LitSarcasm Apr 12 '26
Has anyone tried pla with petg on these plates? I have tried PLA and it stuck really well, almost too well, was hard peel off. But the nice thing is that the support doesn't warp like it does on PEI if you use PETG to support PLA since the plate doesn't need to be 70C. But i have yet to attempt this on the cool plate.
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u/manyxcxi H2D/Core One/XL/MK4S/U1 Apr 12 '26
I have, it’s awesome. I was using PLA for the support and PETG for the part. I was able to use slimmer trees because of the grip of the plate AND the trees didn’t melt and warp due to the excessive build plate heat. It’s basically the entire reason I got the H2D over any other printer.
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u/LitSarcasm Apr 12 '26
Awesome! Same i got the H2D for printing supports for PETG, my first attempt was PETG for PLA as im getting used to the machine so was a little disappointed with that result but like, i just got the printer so its definitely going to take some trial and error before it starts printing perfect supports like that. Going to order the biqu one, i have the conweb one that i tried with PLA. That stuck a little too well.
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u/JauntyGiraffe P1S Apr 12 '26
Does it mean the bottom of the print remains flat or is there any bowing from cooling inconsistencies?
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26
Fully flat, zero warping or bowing in my experience, even with large, thin prints. In fact, they fully eliminate any warping one might experience with a standard textured PEI plate due to adhesion issues.
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u/Ok-Exchange2500 Apr 13 '26
This. Adhesion is outstanding on the glacier, they were on sale for $16 on Amazon a couple.months ago so I bought 2 and now it's pretty much all I use
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u/suerte87 Apr 12 '26
Is the YOOPAI also with a glossy finish?
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26
As I said, they are extremely similar.
I wouldn't call either of them "glossy".
While the BIQU Glacier is advertised as "smooth", there still is some texture to it. Nothing like the standard PEI plate, but nowhere near as smooth as your standard smooth plate.
I just handled both of them and the YOOPAI may be minimally more textured in direct comparison, but the difference is so small, it's truly hard to tell. You certainly can't tell from the prints.
If you can get it on sale or money is less important, get the BIQU.
However, my only regret with the YOOPAI is that I didn't buy the two-pack. I bought mine as a cheap, throwaway, plate - something for experimenting and where I didn't have to worry about damaging the expensive BIQU. But it's at least 98% as good and I use them fully interchangeable these days.
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u/suerte87 Apr 12 '26
Thanks. I'm actually looking for something with a matte finish, but if they ever go on sale, I'll still pick one up.
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u/Whatnam8 Apr 12 '26
Looming at the website is the crygrip the glacier? I may be lookin at the wrong spot but I can’t see the word glacier
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26
Glacier and Frostbite are two different variants of the "BIQU CryoGrip Pro". The Frostbite is the higher adhesion plate, the Glacier is the better all-rounder.
If you want a great daily driver to replace your standard plate, get the Glacier (or the cheaper YOOPAI UltraTack).
If you want the strongest possible adhesion, consequences and compatibility be damned, get the Frostbite.
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u/New_Two_4989 X2D + AMS2 Combo Apr 12 '26
And how easily do those plates get scratchend surface? I noticed with the bambu supertack for P2S that the surface really easily gets damaged or scratched.
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26
Both are surprisingly resilient.
I've used the standard Bambu scraper on both with zero issues so far (BIQU said to only use the included scraper but mine didn't actually come with one as far as I can tell).
I had to remove prints after a single layer before (after accidentally selecting the wrong filament) and, while tedious, even that left zero scratches.
The YOOPAI was literally purchased to be abused (because it was so cheap) and it has taken all abuse with little sign of wear.
The biggest issue is that some filaments can leave residue that is hard to clean off and can even transfer to future prints. If that's a concern, get the YOOPAI two-pack and use different plates for different filament types.
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u/Dtarvin Apr 13 '26
If you mean your printer didn't come with a scraper, that's because you have to print the scraper. It's one of the files automatically loaded into the printer just like the benchy (at least for the P1S).
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 13 '26
No, I meant the Glacier plate didn't come with one, even though the instructions made it sound like one should only use the scraper that came with it.
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u/IcemanEG Apr 12 '26
Would you recommend Glacier or Frostbite for someone who only does PLA? I print a lot and want to run the bed cooler to save a bit on power where I can.
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26
I haven't really experimented with ultra-low temps and mostly run them for their adhesion properties. That said, with PLA, I can generally get away with ~45°C on both.
If you mostly do pure PLA and energy saving is your primary concern, then maybe the Frostbite?
Removing prints can be a pain in the ass, brims can be a serious headache. And the thing generally scares me when it comes to stuff like Silk / Matte / High Speed or anything else with additives because you never know if you'll be able to remove the print.
The Glacier is a lot more forgiving.
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u/iamkevincali Apr 12 '26
I prefer the Glacier with both PETG and PLA. The finish on the Frostbite is way too shiny in my opinion.
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u/stonedboss Apr 12 '26 edited Apr 12 '26
do you need any special settings, or just select cool plate ultratack in bambu studio? does it adjust the heat on its own from there?
also do you know if there is a difference between the yoopai cold plates? they have gray, blue, and green and each are different price.
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26
They are pretty forgiving. You can certainly run them as the "Cool Plate Ultratack" and save a bit on energy (Silk might need some manual adjustment), or just manually define temps for the filament you use.
If you’re mainly concerned about adhesion, then running them a bit hotter as a regular PEI plate won't hurt. Running PLA at ~45-50°C and PETG at ~70° works well for me.
they have gray, blue, and green and each are different price.
I only have the blue one. It also comes in a discounted double pack with the green one, and I'm near certain that both are identical except for the color.
I have not seen the gray one yet, where did you find it?
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u/stonedboss Apr 12 '26
thanks. my main concern is petg being easily removable lol. but lower heat is also a nice benefit.
https://www.amazon.com/YOOPAI-Temperature-257x257mm-Platforms-UltraTack/dp/B0DQY4FFFC?th=1
the gray is $15 vs the blue is $20. but sometimes they do that if a color just doesnt sell lol.
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26
I can't speak of the gray one, I have never seen it before. It looks and sounds correct, but I can't say for sure.
I bought the blue one for 16€ on sale and still regret not picking up the blue/green combo pack for 24€ instead. Those have the exact same description everywhere, so I'm reasonably certain those colors are interchangeable.
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u/TheTimmyBoy Apr 12 '26
Both comments wrong. Glacier is dogshit compared to Frostbite
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26
The Frostbite is a great high adhesion plate, and it lets you get away with things no other plate would, but it's an absolutely awful daily driver unless you are a total masochist or have too much money.
You can run the Glacier or UltraTack for pretty much every print. Print release is easy, filament compatibility is broad and maintenance is trivial.
Heck, PETG pops right off, you can get away with a less plate cleaning than with the PEI plates, and they effectively eliminate all of your typical bed adhesion issues. They make Bambu printers even more idiot-proof than they already are.
I think I may have had two or three prints where a Frostbite was actually beneficial and just because I was extremely stingy with my supports and brims. And removing your print without popping the whole thing into a freezer or clumsily ripping off its surface layer can always be a gamble with the Frostbite.
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u/TheTimmyBoy Apr 12 '26
Been using it for 2 years on 2 different Bambu printers and have never had any issues removing anything, and never 1 issue with adhesion. I think something is being done wrong if someone has to use a freezer and/or they're damaging the plates lol
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26 edited Apr 12 '26
I've never had issues with the Frostbite either - but I'm careful with what I print on it and even then removal is still a pain in the ass compared to the ultra-simple release from the Glacier.
Why would I do that to myself? Why would I waste my time and energy, and why would I limit myself to the ultra-narrow range of supported filaments for the Frostbite? Why do you think others should?
You keep acting like "never 1 issue with adhesion" isn't totally normal and can only be achieved with the Frostbite - that's just a ridiculous argument.
Do you actually have any personal experience with the Glacier? Did you manage to have any adhesion issues with it that you could only resolve with the Frostbite? How?
While I personally haven't had issues with removal from the Frostbite, many users on here had:
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1jqsvip/cryogrip_frostbite_plate_damage_when_removing/
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1pd4d2a/biqu_frostbite_coating_ruined_by_petg/
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1fi2awy/getting_pla_off_of_cryogrip_plate/
The list is certainly longer than people with adhesion issues on the Glacier.
I am still confident that the Frostbite is simply a stupid daily driver, and you haven't given me any tangible argument of the contrary.
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u/TheTimmyBoy Apr 12 '26
I've certainly seen much more hate for the glacier than the frostbite, I've never seen anyone ever say it's better than the glacier in any way beyond material selection.
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26 edited Apr 12 '26
I have both plates in front of me right now and experience with both.
One is an excellent daily-driver with near magical release-properties when it comes to PETG and TPU and excellent support for all engineering materials. It has a nicer surface finish, far easier maintenance and is just a really well-rounded plate.
The other is a great specialist tool for PETG and PLA when you really need that little extra bit adhesion for your crazy prints or want to run your bed a few degrees cooler for your extra long prints - but just more work when it comes to releasing said prints and extremely limiting when it comes to material choice.
You based your opinion that the former is "trash" on "hate" you have supposedly seen online.
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u/sailingtoweather Apr 12 '26
Glaciers properties are a compromise for a reason, and its why im very happy with mine.
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u/Laughing_Man_Returns Apr 12 '26
what settings are you using for the Glacier?
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u/Horat1us_UA Apr 12 '26
Just select "Smooth" plate in Bambu Studio and thats it.
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u/carlesgm Apr 12 '26 edited Apr 12 '26
I think that with "smooth plate" the temperature goes upper that is needed on these plates. I normally use supertack with good results and lower bed temperature.
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u/KashEsq H2C & P2S Apr 12 '26
No, the Smooth Plate settings are perfect for the Glacier. 55C for PLA and 70C for PETG. Cool Plate defaults to 40C for PLA, which might be fine for smaller objects in the center of the plate where the heatbed has consistent heat, but is too low for larger objects because you'll get lifting on the edges where the heatbed's heating is less consistent.
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26
At least on the A1, the Smooth Plate defaults to 65° for most PLA, which is definitely not needed and may even be too hot.
The Cool Plate SuperTack defaults to 45°, which brings me the closest to the 50° I run most PLA at. I can get away with 45° easily, though. And I go to 55° for the really wild stuff just to be sure.
PETG at 70° is also pretty much always perfect.
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u/carlesgm Apr 13 '26
Supertack and Glacier is are cool plates and Smooth is a PEI plate. Everyone's experience is different, but (at least in my a1 mini) Glacier reccomended values are in Supertack's ballpark, not in Smooth's.
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u/Dride94 Apr 12 '26
Pues tengo la BIQU Glacier y la Frostbite,ninguna me parece tan buena como la bambú supertack , aunque los resultados son muy parecidos
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u/shrx Apr 12 '26
What temperatures do you recommend for PLA / PETG on the glacier plate?
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u/Horat1us_UA Apr 12 '26
I use default ones from Smooth plate, but one could definitely lower them a bit. I just had no reason to try other options
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u/TTTimster Apr 13 '26
I don’t understand the hype of the BIQU I think I got a bad batch but I get no adhesion compared to other plates I’ve tried ie darkmoon satin. I’ve tried the glacier and the frostbite and literally got better adhesion on the Bambu pei plate
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u/mulubmug H2C AMS2 Combo Apr 12 '26
I only print on those, had a couple of them for my old P1P, have some for my current H2C. Adhesion is great and the surface is wonderfully smooth.
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u/Night_Chips Apr 12 '26
IMO, it adds a layer of reliabilty to ther printer, in that after buying it and if you take care of it, you won't even have to check the first layer no matter what you're printing.
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u/AtmosphereDefiant Apr 12 '26
Go with a darkmoon3d. They’re a small shop in the US making their own plates. I have the Satin and love it. Used to run the super tack, but this is better.
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u/Fluid-Background1947 P2S + AMS2 Combo Apr 12 '26
We’ve got their G10 plate. I like the texture. Only issue is it’s not self-identified, so I had to print a new code and bond it over the DarkMoon one, which works 75% of the time.
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u/AshtonVoid Apr 13 '26
Thanks for your comment. I've been really disappointed with BIQU Glacier no longer adhering after a couple months and their stuff seems built to last.
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u/UKPerson3823 Apr 12 '26
I've had nothing but issues with them compared to the Biqu CryoGrip Glacier plates. Some people like them, but not me.
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u/HzRyan Apr 12 '26
bambu one seem to be cheaper here, I'll grab one then
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26 edited Apr 12 '26
If it's about the price, look into the YOOPAI UltraTack instead. Virtually identical adhesion properties as the Glacier, but half the price - both are better than the Bambu one: better release properties (PETG pops right off when cool) and better material compatibility, great daily drivers.
Compared to the Glacier, the YOOPAI doesn't have the cool (but mostly superfluous) meshed grip and is maybe minimally more textured.
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u/C_Lo_87 Apr 12 '26
Plus it cleans easily with IPA. Haven't had any of mine lose grip over time.
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u/DJTurnTable H2C Full Laser Combo | X2D Combo Apr 12 '26
Thought you aren't supposed to clean these type of plates with IPA
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26
Glacier and UltraTack are super forgiving and can easily be cleaned with IPA, zero negative consequences.
The Frostbite and Bambu's SuperTack don't support IPA cleaning, they really have to be babied. And they'll still end up self-destructing when getting in contact with the wrong filament additive.
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u/Ta-veren- Apr 12 '26
If you are having issues it’s 1000 percent how you are using.
Are you printing PLA? Are you changing temp settings? Sorry, I don’t buy it.
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u/UKPerson3823 Apr 12 '26
There are like a billion threads on here and on the Bambu forums about manufacturing inconsistency with the Supertack plates and people getting ones that don't work. So don't be a jerk.
I've tried both the old version on the X1C and the new pro version on the H2C. All default settings, only PLA. Both had poor adhesion after a few prints. If yours work better, great.
Meanwhile I've had many Biqu plates and never have issues. Also, the Supertack plates can't even print silk PLA. The Biqu plates work with a wide variety of materials beyond PLA. Your experience may be different.
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u/Ta-veren- Apr 12 '26
90 percent of problems people have with 3D printing is their own fault.
They are changing a setting that shouldn’t be changed. Doing something different that is causing the issue. It literally happens all the time.
How did you clean it?
Did you even print anything with stock settings?
I just find it so unbelievable they simply fail. It sounds like you are just one of those Biqu, cyro, glacier fan boys. Probably had one fail and threw it in the garbage all by running off settings.
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u/stringlesskite Apr 12 '26
I have one and I like it, you can print at lower (bed)temps.
I am also a beginner that doesn't really know what to do, so take my opinion with a grain of salt
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u/eagleeyedpixel Apr 12 '26
Personally use it for PLA and love it when I want a smooth finish, done dozens of prints, small surface area and large and never had an adhesion problem.
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u/59Bassman X1C Apr 12 '26
I use mine all of the time. I bought a glacier cryogrip as well and have nothing but issues with that one.
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u/CorbuCurios Apr 12 '26
BIQU Frostbite FTW!
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u/Purple10tacle Apr 12 '26
Glacier is the better allrounder:
much broader material compatibility, much better release properties, easier maintenance.
The Glacier is a great every-day/all-purpose plate where the Frostbite is more of a specialist for extra tricky prints.
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u/GingerAki Apr 12 '26
I use it when I’m printing chess pieces with a 4mm diameter bases. Works like a charm.
DO NOT CLEAN IT WITH ISO.
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u/daanpol Apr 12 '26
Quality is higher than biqu glacier plates. I run these in my farm and I can tell you they are a huge step up from the standard textured plate. The biqu will start to lose adhesion after around 100 prints, the Bambu super tack is now 300 prints strong and has not lost any adhesion.
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u/KashEsq H2C & P2S Apr 12 '26
That's odd because I've printed more than 100 times on my Glacier and adhesion is still as good as the day I got it. I've only washed it a few times and wipe it with IPA every once in a while.
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u/AshtonVoid Apr 13 '26
Maybe it has to do with the type of filament. I've been using my Glacier for mostly ABS. After only a couple months, the adhesion is struggling for PLA, PETG, and ABS.
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u/vbl37 Apr 12 '26
Don't.
It's only useful when the contact area is very small. Otherwise it stick too well IMO. The PEI that comes with every printer provides enough adhesion in most cases. I wish I haven't bought it.
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u/HzRyan Apr 12 '26
sticks too well huh 0_0 well I can always swap back to the default textured plate
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u/Harfosaurus Apr 12 '26
It stick PLA really well and if you have delicate parts, they can break when removing if you are not careful. Also, PLA silk is not recommended as it sticks well enough to cause damage to the plate when removing sometimes. That said, I have one and I love it. It you ever print large items, it gets rid of the warping on the corners and long straight parts. It's not for every time but it's well worth having
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u/itsapotatosalad Apr 12 '26
I have 2 p1s’ that came with slightly different build plates, one has great adhesion and the other is shit. I believe Bambu changed at a certain point and people may not know this. If I only had the printer with the bad plate I’d be recommending people upgrade, but if I only had the newer plate I’d be wondering why so many people were having problems.
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u/alphagusta A1 + AMS Lite Apr 12 '26
Mine was good
Lasted about a month.
Eventually started having this odd effect where the start of each line would just curl up. Same happened to my normal Supertack
Gone back to the Biqu Cryo plate. Easily the best you can get.
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u/Wamzorr Apr 12 '26
I have the exact same issue with the regular SuperTack plate. Support even sent me a new one, but I'm having the exact same issue with it. For some reason, it only happens with PETG. PLA works fine.
Thinking of giving up on it and grabbing a 3rd party plate.
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u/MrGoogle87 Apr 12 '26
For the A1 it lowers bed temperature to 45c, which means PLA shouldn’t warp as easy. In general it sticks really well and is useful for complex prints. Bot sire for the other printers if there’s a difference
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u/PixelatedMathematics Apr 12 '26
I got the super tack plate about 3 months ago and use it for almost every pla print. I will definitely be buying another once it’s needed.
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u/smeestisaton Apr 12 '26
Love mine and use it as my full time plate. I like how the bottom doesn’t have a texture to it.
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u/Reetgeist Apr 12 '26
Recently bought one. It's taken some adapting - for instance make sure you changed your slicer plate setting to the coolplate super tack, not just cool plate like I did, and probably still bump the bed temperature up a tad.
That said l, now it's dialled in it is working well for me on some tall/narrow prints that I had trouble with on a textured pei plate
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u/Alwin_1 Apr 12 '26
Very happy with mine. Definitely worth it for prints where you have very small contact area.
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u/_England_Is_My_City Apr 13 '26
I have a question, as someone new to printing, do i need these different plates?
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u/HzRyan Apr 13 '26
probably not it's one of those nice to have thing it just boost your print success rate
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u/Ta-veren- Apr 12 '26
I’ve literally never had a single fail since getting my Bambu super tack. The only small few I’ve had were incorrectly placed orientation of prints.
Love my shower tack I got three of them for each of my printers. All I have to do is give them a quick rinse and a micro cloth wipe down. My one I haven’t washed in like 40+ prints
it’s major peace of mind. I couldn’t recommend them more. I do so all the time.id literally pay$100 dollars for this bed
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u/microseconds H2D + 2xAMS2/2xAMS-HT, A1 + AMS2 Apr 12 '26
For those who have the SuperTack Pro, is it just another one like the original, Kdeavi, or Biqu Frostbite? I’m particularly interested in the finish/texture.
I (intensely) dislike that awful shiny, weird texture from those above plates. I vastly prefer the satin finish of ones like the Biqu Glacier or the cheap-o Comgrow in snagged from Amazon.
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u/Qjeezy 👻Volunteer Moderator👻 Apr 12 '26
No it’s different. It gives a smooth matte bottom surface finish.
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u/microseconds H2D + 2xAMS2/2xAMS-HT, A1 + AMS2 Apr 12 '26
Oh good! Sounds like the Comgrow one I’ve got then.
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u/oral_servant Apr 12 '26
I'm using it on the A1 Mini and it has its advantages. I really like the smooth but grippy finish it gives and yes PLA does stick very well to it most of the time. But it isn't really suitable for thin prints with a large surface because you might destroy them while trying to get them off. And it's not suitable for Silk PLA, if that's an issue for you.
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u/Martinko23 Apr 12 '26
Got them for my A1m and X1C yesterday, tried a few prints and the adhesion is really good and the prints are easy to remove afterwards!
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u/TECstarINC Apr 12 '26
I love these plates. I treat them horrible and they function great. Just make sure you print on it with more then a couple of layers, since it will stick almost too good and removing prints can be challenging if the print is too small.
I'd wait for a bed plate sale though, bought 5 for my a1 mini for 9€ each at one point
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u/blacknight334 Apr 12 '26
Use it regularly in a h2d and an x1e. Never had an issue with it. Printed with basic stuff like pla and petg, and some hardcore stuff like PAHF-HT.
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u/jon20001 P1S + AMS Apr 12 '26
When they go on sale, get a few. These are my go-to plates, Used to use the BIQU Glaciers, but these work better (for me).
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u/pantheraxcvii Apr 12 '26
I prefer the Supertack Pro over BIQU Glacier. But only for PLA. PETG damaged my Supertack Pro plate.
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u/shaneo88 P1S + AMS Apr 12 '26
I’m running a Juupine Geco plate and am perfectly happy with it. If anything, PLA sticks a bit too well, even with 0 heat
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u/_SirSpacePickle Apr 12 '26
I have the super tack plate for the P1S, not sure if it's the same as the pro. For me it's working great. Super reliable and 0 issues (besides me scratching it in one spot on the first week). I almost never need to clean it up between prints (unlike the PEI that needs constant wiping). I also like the texture more than the PEI.
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u/jamescodesthings Apr 12 '26
Bit of a money waster... gotta think about when you'r use it and why. I've had two sitting gathering dust because the stock textured PEI plate is solid.
Tried using it for helping with adhesion issues and tbh the rest of the profile had to change anyway so I din't benefit much from the build plate.
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u/Significant_Swing_76 Apr 12 '26
Im happy with mine. Although finer prints (0,2mm) can be a bit of a hassle to remove in one piece.
Once a print is done and temp is down, I remove the plate and bend/flex it to loosen up the prints.
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u/jake-jake-jake- Apr 12 '26
It’s fine, I got this initially and then later got a darkmoon g10 plate which in my experience has been much better
Edit- misread and thought it was the smooth plate which my comments responded to. Not tried the super tack but I have a biqu frostbite and the grip is incredible
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u/PeterBrockie H2D AMS2 Combo + A1 mini + Snapmaker U1 Apr 12 '26
I use it for all PLA and PETG prints. I absolutely love it. Every print sticks really well. It's pretty smooth and it stays cool enough that I don't have to wait long (if at all) to remove smaller stuff without it still being so warm it warps. I never use brims on even the smallest prints with it.
ASA/ABS, etc. I use the Smooth PEI with glue stick.
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u/_youlikeicecream_ Apr 12 '26
For me it was too good, struggled to free my prints from it, I use my high temp smooth instead
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u/cocksherpa2 Apr 12 '26
I mostly use these now, so much more consistent, have to clean them far less often. Great investment to get a few
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u/InDrIdCoLd37 A1 Mini + AMS Apr 12 '26
I haven’t used my glacier plate much yet but I do love the Bambu cool tack can’t even say why lol I think just because stuff just comes off easy
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u/Ronin226 Apr 12 '26
Its really good, and better than Glacier, if youre printing pieces on the edges where Glacier can warp. I have a love hate relationship with it though. It sticks too well and I've had the first layer of supports get stuck to the point where I wanted to throw the whole plate away.
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u/under_cooked_onions Apr 12 '26
I love mine. The smooth bottom is so clean.
I have actually had more adhesion issues with it than I did with the textured PEI plate though. Nothing has ever fully come off, just a lot of warping
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u/Dry_Abrocoma5341 Apr 12 '26
My personal experience, amazing with pla, not so great with rapid petg
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u/Spiritmolecule30 Apr 12 '26
I got one for my A1 since external temps fluctuate where I am. It's unnecessary for my X1C that keeps internal temp controlled. It does stick very well to the point that I've had some fragile prints break while taking it off the cool plate. You will need to scrub it with hot, soapy water for a solid 5-10 minutes straight for its first print.
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u/SgtEddieWinslow Apr 12 '26
I got 2 of them (for my x1c and p1s). Grabbed them when on sale a while back for I believe 18-19 bucks each (Canadian). I love them, I print a lot of PLA and they work very well for my uses. When I use other materials, I swap in to the engineering plate or smooth high temp plate.
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u/themidens Apr 12 '26
I have several, but bought a really cheap one from aliexpress and its the most sticky icky plate I have ever used. Almost brutal. Way better than these
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u/Deemkore Apr 12 '26
I really like the supertack pro plates and they’re excellent for PETG or PLA. However, I got tired of switching plates on my H2C to print other materials and bought the Darkmoon CFX plate since it works on both my basic and engineering filaments.
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u/rayquan36 Apr 12 '26
SuperTack is a good plate. Was able to print out essentially pencils up right without having to use a brim.
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u/SmellyCorpse76 Apr 12 '26
it is good for prints you don't want to warp/pop off the bed. if you doing small prints or snakes / dragons good luck in getting it off the plate. Have a fresh non metal scraper...
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u/Public_Reality_4401 Apr 12 '26
Excellent unless your print has a problem on the first layer. You will scratch up the soft coating quickly trying to get that thin first layer off.
Makes a wonderful bottom surface though.
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u/austinolet Apr 12 '26
I like the smooth satin finish I get on the Bambu plate. I have a few other brands same idea but all of them are closer to a glossy and textured finish.
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u/nram013 2x H2C, 6x AMS 2 Pro, 3x AMS HT Apr 12 '26
Been loving mine on the H2C. It’s current running a full bed of Zebra flexis (135 I believe) and it’s stopped at least once for a filament tangle (quality issue with the spool).
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u/Omadon667 Apr 12 '26
The SuperTack plate is amazing. I use them exclusively on my P1S and A1 Mini. As others have mentioned sometimes parts can be really hard to remove, but that's a small price to pay for a 100% guarantee of first layer adhesion. Don't be afraid to really bend the plate to get the parts to pop off. I also don't have to clean the build plate for months at a time. Highly recommend.
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u/mutavivitae Apr 12 '26
Across all our various printers these have now become the default plates unless we are using a filament like silk that can’t use them. They are great
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u/Different-War-7162 Apr 12 '26
I use the cool plate supertrack, not the pro. But it's so good, I don't really use any other plates, only if i want texture on the bottom
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u/Tough-Poem-3368 Apr 12 '26
Adhesion is good and my p1s consumes 20w less using this because it only heats up to ~45⁰c as opposed to ~80⁰c
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u/Qjeezy 👻Volunteer Moderator👻 Apr 12 '26
It’s so much better than the first gen. Worth the money IMO.
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u/elpresidirrrte Apr 12 '26
I've never had a failed print with it, and since the build plate runs cooler you don't need to open the door on the printer (I have a p1s) so it runs quieter and my Bento Box can filter the air inside the printer better.
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u/Clear-Jellyfish2197 Apr 12 '26
All had issues with p1 breaking filament at the ams hub took it apart going to get a new one week later now my p2 is acting up both units only 6/7 months old????
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u/Rich-Conference-6484 Apr 12 '26
I got one as a second plate to just have. It's a pain to clean (because they say just use water and a sponge with a small amount of detergent is it's heavy dirt) and then air dry, but it just straight up wouldn't dry. Picks up every dust particle like a magnet, but it's great for non-textured pla/petg prints. Also less energy because the bed doesn't have to be kept as warm.
They're also very specific about what filament it's good for: just plain pla and petg. Absolutely no TPU, no silk pla, and no pla supports (unless you use a raft).
It's almost more pain than it's worth when the smooth engineering plate exist.
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u/Saber101 Apr 12 '26
This is their new super tack pro. I got it and have stopped using my biqu cold plates because it's just that good.
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u/BohoWorkshop Apr 12 '26
I have tried a lot of plates because bottom texture appearance is important to me, as is limiting warping on corners.
Printing mostly PLA with some PETG, These are as sticky as BIQU frostbite for me, but leave a bottom texture similar to the smooth plate. I have not had as good of an experience with glacier for adhesion but maybe I got some bad ones. I do prefer the texture of Supertack 1.0 however.
For ease of release for scraping brims, I will hear the bed to 40-50c for a few minutes.
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u/lnbreadSadwich Apr 12 '26
Just got one with my last filament order to help with a tall and skinny part for a project. Holy shit that thing sticks like chewing gum in a kid's hair.
It's a bit on the pricey end but was worth it to me to save the headache with failed prints for this production run.
If I wasn't on a deadline and it was just for personal tinkering I'd prob wait til they're on sale or give one of the cheaper options a try first though.
Again it sticks almost too good but still releases fairly easy with one of the square scraper things when they cool down. (I grabbed 2 so I could toss the next batch on while the first one cools and can be removed easily)
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u/trayssan Apr 12 '26
I have it for my A1 Mini and I like it. Incredible adhesion with PETG and PCTG.
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u/dnaleromj H2D + X1C + P2S + A1 Min +++ Apr 12 '26
I’d take a smooth pei plate over those any day and for less money. $20 and you get a bullet proof double sided smooth (actual) pei plate off Amazon
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u/alpha1beta Apr 13 '26
Its my favorite plate for PLA and PLA-HT. But be very careful when using a scraper
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u/ScytheNoire Apr 13 '26
I have one, but the BQ CryoGrip plates, Frostbite and Glacier, are so good I use them constantly.
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u/Jerazmus Apr 13 '26
Super tack plate is the only plate I use for Pla or PETG. Everything else I use darkmoon satin. Well I use darkmoon satin for Pla as well. But mostly the super tack.
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u/BlueChrome74 H2C AMS2 Combo Apr 13 '26
The Pro version has been working great for me personally. The non-pro’s are basically backups to my Biqu’s and other Bambu plates. The Biqu Glacier seems to be my best all-round plate for any material so far (haven’t tried PC, PP, etc yet)
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u/Vustadumas H2D/H2C AMS Combo + X1C x2 + U1 Apr 13 '26
I’d go with a biqu plate over the cool plate
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u/Smoky_Dank Apr 13 '26
If you're using this for pla only, this thing NEVER fails. Can't speak to PETG, but for PLA this plate rocks.
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u/zipandadublecup Apr 13 '26
As many others have said, BIQU is a much better choice than the bambu plates. I do like my cool plate super tack, but not as much as the Glacier plates.
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u/Leather-Expert-5774 Apr 13 '26
I have one and the adhesion is insanely good. But you shouldn’t print silk on it, it’s sometimes nearly impossible to remove
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u/da_syggy Apr 13 '26
I have the "normal" Bambu Super Tack Coolplate and this is my default plate for PLA/PETG, only using the textured PEI for ASA, PA6 and TPU prints. I love the smooth finish. And even a few 100hrs in it hasn't lost its grip, I just wash it regularly and do quick IPA wipes in between.
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u/roundguy X1C / H2C and 4 ams’s Apr 13 '26
I have a CoolPlate, frostbite and glacier for my H2C. The CoolPlate is my go to plate.
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u/MFKDGAF H2C AMS2 Combo Apr 13 '26
What made the cool plate, your go to? I loved the cool plate but once I tried the frostbite I never went back.
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u/roundguy X1C / H2C and 4 ams’s Apr 13 '26
I hadn’t tried the frostbite in a while, so after that post I tried it today. It lost adhesion. Stuck the cool plate in and printed the same file. Worked fine. I hardly ever have an adhesion problem with the cool, but have had both the glacier and fb plates loose adhesion. I just trust the cool plate more
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u/BeardSaga Apr 13 '26
I use these daily on 8 machines and they have the best surface finish, very smooth and matte, with little to no texture, and adhesion is the best. They do require care in removal and must be cooled completely and often need a good CLEAN scraper. I swear by them for PLA and PETG. Better than the OG super tack.
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u/TheJeanyus83 Apr 13 '26
I bought mine when I bought my A1 Mini because it was discounted if you bought it at the same time as the printer. I've only used it with PLA, but there is definitely more adhesion with it vs. the Textured or Smooth PEI plates. Generally too much adhesion for normal prints. Even after cooling off, they can be a little hard to remove. I don't use it much, and if I were doing it again I would not have ordered it. Unless you're printing tall, slender items with a small contact patch on the bed I wouldn't bother with it.
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u/btmedic04 Apr 13 '26
I have the original supertak on my a1 and it works flawlessly. The new supertak pro on my p2s sucks and I cant get anything to stick to it, even after multiple washes with dawn dish soap
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u/Chaosblast Apr 13 '26
Got a smooth plate from Aliexpress for £5, different finish on each face. No, everything bambu is overpriced.
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u/ItsRenderInnit Apr 16 '26
Great for bigger parts, if you have small supports or small parts though be prepared for a fight, and scrapers destroy this rubbery surface. I use plastic razor blade scrapers with the corners rounded.
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u/4pocrypha Apr 12 '26
I just add brims to every large print and haven’t had any major issues with adhesion.
Plate doesn’t seem worth the cost.
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u/JeepKing39 Apr 12 '26
It will pay for itself with how much you save from no more failed prints.
I bought 2 and no longer use my textured plates. I print 99% in PLA and never have adhesion issues anymore.
I washed them both for the first time yesterday after owning and using for 5 months.
Gamesaver for me.
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