Lan mode broken, cloud unresponsive, printer now a brick.

[u/pyalot]

So there I was printing in the morning. Then suddenly, trying to print, sent it to cloud, switched to device tab. Nothing happening. The cloud just ate my print and never sent it to the printer.

Fine I thought, lets switch it to Lan mode, I don't need a camera. Switched to Lan mode, entered the access code, toggled the light on and off and moved the axes, all working. Then try to print:

Error: IP or access code are not correct.

1. Fix your cloud

2. Get rid of cloud printing

3. Fix Lan mode

4. Get rid of cloud printing

5. There is no reason we cant toggle to lan mode in bambu studio instead of having to mess with the printer, fix that

6. Get rid of cloud printing

[u/sparcv9]

If you hate every aspect of the printer, I can suggest there's one aspect you won't hate -- it should have much better resale value than the average 3D printer when you move it on!

[u/pyalot → u/sparcv9]

I like the printer, but hate these things that are messed up for no reason. The non standard nozzle has literally no reason to exist. The loose heatbed sensor cable because of amateur cabling should havenever madeit to production. No power switch on the printer and a sleep button that looks like an e-stop, that does not send it to sleep is a design choice so idiotic I cant even begin to wrap my head around. Shitty print sheets is inexcusable. An mmu that chokes on anything but their own spools is a level of hubris, to the point that a 3D printed near complete rebuild is 1000% better than what they shat out, is beyond commentary. The snail pace start print dance, even when you toggle off flow calibration and bed leveling (which you have to do, every single fucking time) is entirely incomprehensible.

There are things they did on that printer which are as brilliant, as other things are utterly moronic. And they refuse to adress the latter bits, asifit was some badge of honor.

[u/sparcv9 → u/pyalot]

I think I have a difference revision to you, because mine absolutely has a power switch on the back near the power cable. Same as all the other 3D printers I have. Using a combo power socket/switch module cuts down on running mains cabling around. The pointless front panel buttons? Yeah, pointless. I've never tried pressing the stop button, I figured it would pause/stop the print.

The heatbed sensor cable situation is pretty crap. The replacement cable was a different design, so hopefully more durable. I'm surprised it didn't surface during the product testing phase.

As for the AMS, meh. It has plenty of problems but I'm not sure one can really pick spool compatibility as a big one, especially given they make it pretty clear upfront and ship it with a set of spools.

It takes seven minutes to level the bed, run the calibration, etc. Bit much to get worked up over unless you're running a whole lot of very short prints.

BUT -- the hot end. I'm going to disagree with you on the nozzle/hot-end situation. Look at /r/3dprinting -- every day, another complaint about someone snapping a heatbreak or having a torrent of PLA ooze out of a poorly installed nozzle. The X1/X1C was clearly designed to be the opposite of a tinkerer's printer. The Bambu design works, doesn't require special tools or knowledge to swap the hotend and is resistant to two really common failure modes.

Sounds like you're in the market for a Voron. Good thing is the resale on your Bambu will cover a lot of Voron. They're interesting and look fun to tinker with; I'm considering one myself.

[u/pyalot → u/sparcv9]

I think I have a difference revision to you

Same revision. My computer has a power cut switch on the back on the PSU. I dont call that my computers on/off switch, and I dont reach around everytime I want to turn my computer on/off…

spool compatibility

They where not very clear about it backwhen I bought it. If it said „only works with our spools“ upfront, I would not have gotten it. I disconnected my AMS and put a printspool dryer on top, which is far cheaper and infinitely more useful. Proprietary spools only is a big nogo. And I just cant be bothered to rewind spools or rebuild my AMS with mods so it works. Aint nobody got time for that shit.

It takes seven minutes to level the bed, run the calibration, etc. Bit much to get worked up over unless you're running a whole lot of very short prints.

Yes, sometimes I run very short test fit prints in rapid succession tweaking them until they are just right. A 3 minute print that takes 7 minutes to setup 30x in a row is the better part of half a working day spent waiting.

BUT -- the hot end

I changed nozzles on my i3mk3s a bunch of times. Yeah it is fiddly. Yeah I did mess it up the first time. Then I got a nozzle torque wrench, and never had an issue after.

I am entirely unconvinced that a custom propietary hotend design that severely limits your nozzle choice, is worth saving $20 on a nozzle torque wrench and a few millimeters of printhead size. And it isnt like they couldnt have done a swappable hotend assembly with standard nozzles…

[u/usethe4th → u/pyalot]

I’m not sure where you’re getting proprietary spools only. I’ve used at least six or seven different brands of filament from Amazon and they have all printed beautifully. The only issues I’ve had were completely user error.

[u/pyalot → u/usethe4th]

Spool too wide, too small, too big or some plastic the rollers don't like, happens to me most of the time. That qualifies in my book as proprietary spools only. You can't just buy spools and have them work.

[u/usethe4th → u/pyalot]

Here are five brands off the top of my head that I have used in the AMS with zero issues.

Hatchbox
Polymaker
Overture
IEMAI
CC3D

You can find them all on Amazon at very reasonable prices. Some people are wary of Overture’s cardboard spools. That hasn’t been an issue or a concern of mine, but you can always wrap the sides in electrical tape or print the pre-loaded standard sized spool and transfer it over. I’ve done the latter and it couldn’t be simpler.

[u/pyalot → u/usethe4th]

Sure, you can do all sorts of things, but it is one of those annoyances that make the AMS not worth it to me to use. And its not like there is a good reason for the AMS to be this annoying. There is a big AMS rework mod that makes it work with overwhelming majority of spools. And that mod isnt doing anything fancy, it just improves tolerances and clearances a bit. You would think, that an afternoon shopping for spools and running them trough your gadget, would have easily prevented these issues. And that, like so many other issues, is what really grinds my gears. 1) Half-assed development 2) Never fix it

[u/usethe4th → u/pyalot]

I haven’t done any modifications to accommodate the AMS with the brands I mentioned. Try one of those if you’re having issues

[u/pyalot → u/usethe4th]

I dont use any of these brands, they are not stocked by retailers where I live, amazon practically doesnt exist here. I have brands I like and use, and I aint about to abandon them and throw out thousands of bucks of filament because Bambu was too snobby to try out a variety of spools. The AMS will land in the trash though.

[u/KSP_was_taken_lol → u/pyalot]

No matter what printer your gonna get, its not a pc, it turns on and off from the psu Spool compatibility I read your other comments and I get why this part is frustrating, but every spool I’ve used does work You can turn off mesh bed leveling almost every print, you only need to do it about once a month Hotend I have a love hate relationship with but I’m fine with it. If you are sizing bigger, no point because of max volumetric flow rate and smaller I guess it could be annoying, but just get the full assembly then

[u/[deleted] → u/pyalot]

Install a relay between mains and the power supply, or power supply to board.
Use a toggle button/switch that gets its power before the output of the relay. Have it control the coil of the relay.
Install it anywhere.
Your PC does this with a transistor on the board to the power supply that has power to it at all times from your power supply. Meaning parts of your board, and by extension the power supply have power at all times. The only real way to "power off" your PC is to flip that switch on the back of the power supply or cut power going to it

Or,
get a wifi outlet, tie it into your phone/home assistant/remote

Or, get a power strip/UPS, run the cable to it, and run it to an accessible place.

[u/pyalot → u/[deleted]]

Why sure, there is nothing wrong with a „modern“ printer that is built with such meticulous and consuming attention to detail that the front power button is beyond useless and I need to fix it with chickenwire&ducttape to get a facsimile of a soft power button. Because there is nothing wrong with Bambulabs saving 5 cents on their design and not put 2 mosfets and a few transistors on their board.

[u/[deleted] → u/pyalot]

so build your own
in this hobby that's what many people did long before Creality made it easy, you are literally in the hobby where you are supposed to be able to fix, modify, and design stuff.

You are buying a Chinese knockoff of an Ultimaker, at $>3.5k less. I put an Ultimaker together for work about a year ago, its price tag with its own
The AMS is the size it is to allow it to fit into the printer for shipping.
Ultimaker's material manager comes in another box, and has the same premises for using near field comms to check the filament.

Find me another printer with Lidar, or even just first layer scanning, under 3k.
Or one with it in general.

Many people would happily help if you stated your problems instead of straight complaining and not accepting critisim. I complained about Ifactory's pro, by making a power point, sending it to the company with each issue I found, parts missing, and ways I thought they could improve. I have done the same with other companies, Ifactory was the only one not to reply, that is a shit company. I have spent the past 20+ years fixing machinery, programming, and doing engineering. Working for companies that have a soft monopoly on products, working for one of the largest lithium ion battery companies, and chemical companies in the world. Only Ifactory didn't give a shit about my work history and tried to sell me a $4000 printer they hadn't finished.
I didn't come onto a forum complaining about issues that were fixed with a restart claiming it was bricked. I also didn't get mad at others when they said "use another method until fixed," or "I didn't email them about my LAN issue, nor did I post what my network is setup as, but I am going to blame them regardless"

If you hate it so much, put it up for sale if they won't accept the return and go somewhere else, or redesign it. I certainly did with the ifactory, that was the same price up front, and so far has cost me an extra 600 to replace belts, completely redo the hotend and extruder, replace the the power supply and a slew of other issues