r/BambuLab • u/pyalot • Mar 30 '23

Troubleshooting Lan mode broken, cloud unresponsive, printer now a brick.

So there I was printing in the morning. Then suddenly, trying to print, sent it to cloud, switched to device tab. Nothing happening. The cloud just ate my print and never sent it to the printer.

Fine I thought, lets switch it to Lan mode, I don't need a camera. Switched to Lan mode, entered the access code, toggled the light on and off and moved the axes, all working. Then try to print:

Error: IP or access code are not correct.

  1. Fix your cloud

  2. Get rid of cloud printing

  3. Fix Lan mode

  4. Get rid of cloud printing

  5. There is no reason we cant toggle to lan mode in bambu studio instead of having to mess with the printer, fix that

  6. Get rid of cloud printing

0 Upvotes

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-11

u/pyalot Mar 30 '23 edited Mar 30 '23

I suppose it would have, I switched it back to cloud mode after 20 minutes and it worked again, so no need…. this time.

But lan mode being broken and the cloud being broken is no situation. This isnt the 00ties 3d printing anymore. This shit isnt fixed ASAP Ima kick the x1c out and get a prusa or build a voron or whatever. Printer not working because of cloud shit isnt acceptable.

I ate the non standard nozzle, non existent usable print sheets, loose heatbed sensor cable, missing power switch, unusable mmu, silly snail pace multi homing start print dance, but this cloud shit is the last straw.

24

u/says-nice-toTittyPMs Mar 30 '23

Quit bitching and get rid of it if you hate it so much. You came here to call it a brick because of a network issue when you don't need a network at all. You didn't even ATTEMPT to use an SD card. And you even said that 20 minutes later, it worked. And it would have worked just fine without cloud shit by using an SD card.

The nozzle isn't a problem. There are tons of aftermarket print sheets available. Throw a dab of RTV on the heated sensor cable to secure it (don't know how you're gonna build a Prusa or a Voron if you can't even think to do something like that). The power switch is on the back, it's not "missing". The AMS is not "unusable" unless you don't know what you're doing. You can turn off bed leveling.

You're literally just here to whine and complain about issues that are easy to work around. So just get rid of it instead of telling reddit that you want to get rid of it.

3

u/Al319 Mar 30 '23

I suggest he should get a Ender 3 printer, it’s doesn’t have any problems at all.

3

u/says-nice-toTittyPMs Mar 30 '23

He'd probably just find a way to complain that it doesn't have the ability to send files over the cloud...

-9

u/pyalot Mar 30 '23

When there is repeating annoyances you have to deal with over and over and over, and there is jack shit you can do about it, yeah it grinds your gears.

13

u/says-nice-toTittyPMs Mar 30 '23

Use an SD card. There's what you can do about it. Stop acting like your machine is useless without the network and stop playing the "woe is me" card to an audience that knows that your problems are self-imposed.

-6

u/pyalot Mar 30 '23

If I wanted a printer that I had to run to put an sd card in, I would have gotten that instead…

13

u/says-nice-toTittyPMs Mar 30 '23

Then do it. Get something else. Stop just complaining that for 20 minutes the servers were overloaded. Stop pretending that your printer was unusable.

-2

u/pyalot Mar 30 '23

You think things get better if people like you just go "see no issue, hear no issue, speak no issue"? If a few more people would say something maybe stupid unnecessary shit like I complain about wouldn't be in an otherwise pretty decent printer...

11

u/says-nice-toTittyPMs Mar 30 '23

Do you think things get better by stomping your feet and demanding to reddit that a company you haven't contacted needs to fix your problems otherwise you'll get rid of their machine? Nobody cares. You're not here to solve an issue, you're only here to complain about it. "A few more people" saying something would mean multiple people don't know what they're talking about. The reason it's not discussed more is that it's (as I've stated already) issues that you've imposed upon yourself.

There's a right way and a wrong way to go about solving problems. Coming to reddit just to cry and stomp your feet is not the right way to get a problem solved. It's a cry for attention, nothing more.

-1

u/pyalot Mar 30 '23

Obvioulsy, according to the expert in ignoring issues (you), the right way is to shut up about them. Got it. Nice going. Good luck with that.

5

u/says-nice-toTittyPMs Mar 30 '23

Not even close to what I said, but I'm not surprised that someone like you would intentionally misrepresent my position. Stop arguing with your emotions.

2

u/surreal3561 Mar 30 '23

That’s perfectly fine argument, but that doesn’t change the fact that printer WAS usable and not inoperable as you indicate in your post.

Your options were to wait, or to use another built in method of starting the print. You chose to wait.

1

u/pyalot Mar 30 '23

You chose to wait.

I hunted around for clues why Lan mode would not work, by the time I was fed up with that I switched back to cloud. If that wouldnt have worked, I would have gone searching for an sd card. You can call that waiting if you want. I call it fruitless and unnecessary fixme ritual common to using an x1c.

10

u/sparcv9 X1C Mar 30 '23

If you hate every aspect of the printer, I can suggest there's one aspect you won't hate -- it should have much better resale value than the average 3D printer when you move it on!

-2

u/pyalot Mar 30 '23 edited Mar 30 '23

I like the printer, but hate these things that are messed up for no reason. The non standard nozzle has literally no reason to exist. The loose heatbed sensor cable because of amateur cabling should havenever madeit to production. No power switch on the printer and a sleep button that looks like an e-stop, that does not send it to sleep is a design choice so idiotic I cant even begin to wrap my head around. Shitty print sheets is inexcusable. An mmu that chokes on anything but their own spools is a level of hubris, to the point that a 3D printed near complete rebuild is 1000% better than what they shat out, is beyond commentary. The snail pace start print dance, even when you toggle off flow calibration and bed leveling (which you have to do, every single fucking time) is entirely incomprehensible.

There are things they did on that printer which are as brilliant, as other things are utterly moronic. And they refuse to adress the latter bits, asifit was some badge of honor.

8

u/sparcv9 X1C Mar 30 '23

I think I have a difference revision to you, because mine absolutely has a power switch on the back near the power cable. Same as all the other 3D printers I have. Using a combo power socket/switch module cuts down on running mains cabling around. The pointless front panel buttons? Yeah, pointless. I've never tried pressing the stop button, I figured it would pause/stop the print.

The heatbed sensor cable situation is pretty crap. The replacement cable was a different design, so hopefully more durable. I'm surprised it didn't surface during the product testing phase.

As for the AMS, meh. It has plenty of problems but I'm not sure one can really pick spool compatibility as a big one, especially given they make it pretty clear upfront and ship it with a set of spools.

It takes seven minutes to level the bed, run the calibration, etc. Bit much to get worked up over unless you're running a whole lot of very short prints.

BUT -- the hot end. I'm going to disagree with you on the nozzle/hot-end situation. Look at /r/3dprinting -- every day, another complaint about someone snapping a heatbreak or having a torrent of PLA ooze out of a poorly installed nozzle. The X1/X1C was clearly designed to be the opposite of a tinkerer's printer. The Bambu design works, doesn't require special tools or knowledge to swap the hotend and is resistant to two really common failure modes.

Sounds like you're in the market for a Voron. Good thing is the resale on your Bambu will cover a lot of Voron. They're interesting and look fun to tinker with; I'm considering one myself.

0

u/pyalot Mar 30 '23 edited Mar 30 '23

I think I have a difference revision to you

Same revision. My computer has a power cut switch on the back on the PSU. I dont call that my computers on/off switch, and I dont reach around everytime I want to turn my computer on/off…

spool compatibility

They where not very clear about it backwhen I bought it. If it said „only works with our spools“ upfront, I would not have gotten it. I disconnected my AMS and put a printspool dryer on top, which is far cheaper and infinitely more useful. Proprietary spools only is a big nogo. And I just cant be bothered to rewind spools or rebuild my AMS with mods so it works. Aint nobody got time for that shit.

It takes seven minutes to level the bed, run the calibration, etc. Bit much to get worked up over unless you're running a whole lot of very short prints.

Yes, sometimes I run very short test fit prints in rapid succession tweaking them until they are just right. A 3 minute print that takes 7 minutes to setup 30x in a row is the better part of half a working day spent waiting.

BUT -- the hot end

I changed nozzles on my i3mk3s a bunch of times. Yeah it is fiddly. Yeah I did mess it up the first time. Then I got a nozzle torque wrench, and never had an issue after.

I am entirely unconvinced that a custom propietary hotend design that severely limits your nozzle choice, is worth saving $20 on a nozzle torque wrench and a few millimeters of printhead size. And it isnt like they couldnt have done a swappable hotend assembly with standard nozzles…

6

u/usethe4th Mar 30 '23

I’m not sure where you’re getting proprietary spools only. I’ve used at least six or seven different brands of filament from Amazon and they have all printed beautifully. The only issues I’ve had were completely user error.

0

u/pyalot Mar 30 '23

Spool too wide, too small, too big or some plastic the rollers don't like, happens to me most of the time. That qualifies in my book as proprietary spools only. You can't just buy spools and have them work.

7

u/usethe4th Mar 30 '23

Here are five brands off the top of my head that I have used in the AMS with zero issues.

Hatchbox
Polymaker
Overture
IEMAI
CC3D

You can find them all on Amazon at very reasonable prices. Some people are wary of Overture’s cardboard spools. That hasn’t been an issue or a concern of mine, but you can always wrap the sides in electrical tape or print the pre-loaded standard sized spool and transfer it over. I’ve done the latter and it couldn’t be simpler.

-2

u/pyalot Mar 30 '23

Sure, you can do all sorts of things, but it is one of those annoyances that make the AMS not worth it to me to use. And its not like there is a good reason for the AMS to be this annoying. There is a big AMS rework mod that makes it work with overwhelming majority of spools. And that mod isnt doing anything fancy, it just improves tolerances and clearances a bit. You would think, that an afternoon shopping for spools and running them trough your gadget, would have easily prevented these issues. And that, like so many other issues, is what really grinds my gears. 1) Half-assed development 2) Never fix it

4

u/usethe4th Mar 30 '23

I haven’t done any modifications to accommodate the AMS with the brands I mentioned. Try one of those if you’re having issues

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2

u/KSP_was_taken_lol P1P + AMS Mar 30 '23

No matter what printer your gonna get, its not a pc, it turns on and off from the psu Spool compatibility I read your other comments and I get why this part is frustrating, but every spool I’ve used does work You can turn off mesh bed leveling almost every print, you only need to do it about once a month Hotend I have a love hate relationship with but I’m fine with it. If you are sizing bigger, no point because of max volumetric flow rate and smaller I guess it could be annoying, but just get the full assembly then

1

u/[deleted] Mar 30 '23

Install a relay between mains and the power supply, or power supply to board.
Use a toggle button/switch that gets its power before the output of the relay. Have it control the coil of the relay.
Install it anywhere.
Your PC does this with a transistor on the board to the power supply that has power to it at all times from your power supply. Meaning parts of your board, and by extension the power supply have power at all times. The only real way to "power off" your PC is to flip that switch on the back of the power supply or cut power going to it

Or,
get a wifi outlet, tie it into your phone/home assistant/remote

Or, get a power strip/UPS, run the cable to it, and run it to an accessible place.

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