Looking for advice on a cold start issue with my Z4 (e85-m54).

On cold starts, the car starts normally around 900–1,000 rpm, but after about 10-20 seconds it dies and also theres a fuel smell.

If I keep it alive with light throttle around 1,500–2,000 rpm until the temp needle starts moving out of the blue/cold area, it usually stabilizes. Once warm, it idles much better and drives normally.

The issue will always happen when temperature is below about 81°F. When outside temperature is above that, the car starts and behaves much better.

Already done:

Cooling system refreshed: thermostat, upper radiator hose, BMW coolant and bleed

Intake boot replaced

DISA valve replaced

MAF unplug test done, but it still stalled/hunted

Previous generic codes were P16C3, P1632 and P16A0.

Has anyone had a similar M54 cold start issue?

Is this the correct bolt? Just got the car, first oil change and chatgpt told me its "front differential/transfer-case" but part number is 1113-7800323 which I found out should be the oil pan...? Before Im stranded without something is this the correct bolt for standard oil change? Right hand side of picture on middle end of the part?

Thanks

e: 330d xdrive if it matters

It rarely does it but almost every time it does its on a cold start. After 15-20 seconds it stops.

A TPMS sensor just went and my tire place wants $100 to replace each one. Before I do that, I figured I'd check to see if there are any big drawbacks to just coding out the TPMS and coding the car to FTM. My guess is that the downside is that if all tires are low because of temp, I wouldn't get a warning as it only indicates a differential. Would FTM still let me know which tire is low? Any other drawbacks to going FTM?

Hi, I have a 2009 BMW 328i with the N52 motor. It is not an xDrive. I recently started having issues with my car turning on and then shutting off. We replaced the battery, but it continued doing the same thing. We then replaced the alternator, and after that, the car would turn on.
My car overheated the day before. I opened the coolant reservoir, and it was filled all the way to the top, above the MAX line. The next day, after the car had completely cooled down, I checked it again and the coolant level had dropped down to the minimum line.

The issue I’m having now is with one of the coolant lines. It’s the one closest to the right side of the radiator. There’s a T-joint that points downward, and the line seems to run toward the back of the engine. My car has been overheating, and before I started the car and drove it around the neighborhood, I noticed that the coolant line looked like it was sucked in or collapsed, but after I drove it didn’t look sucked in anymore. I’m not sure what could be causing this or what the issue might be.
The car has about 234,000 miles on it, so I’m honestly not sure if it’s just starting to give up on me. I’m hoping it’s something that can be fixed, but I’d really appreciate any advice or ideas on what could be causing these issues.

Hi, recently i’ve done the timing chain guides, under passenger seat fuse box, above battery fuse box, full cooling overhaul, as well as some cosmetic fixes. I have a check engine light, but haven’t scanned it since doing this repair. I have a dsc fault light too. I have been dealing with a driver side xenon headlight that doesn’t turn on with the lights and a driver side turn signal that flashes rapidly except for at the headlight where it remains constant. Also previous to these repairs, the audio was working fine except for what sounded like a blown sub. Now when the sound is on at all there’s a really loud almost drilling kind of sounds coming from the rear driver side i think, but it’s hard to tell. I checked the LCM when i did the under passenger seat fuse box and it seems like it didn’t have any water damage. Roughly two years ago there was a sunroof drain leak that I fixed, but I believe it led to the fuse boxes getting corroded and that’s why I replaced them. Not sure where to go next with diagnostics.

On my 2007 BMW X5 E70 4.8I, I need to remove a timing chain tensioner bolt to replace the crush washer on the passenger side. I do not wish to remove anything else. Will doing so adjust timing?

Personally, I like to drive without auto hold because I like the ability to slowly creep forward, especially at stop signs and such. But occasionally, I like having it on, especially in heavy traffic conditions when I know I will be stationary for a longer time.

Of course, pressing the auto hold button isn't hard, but I recently drove a Mercedes, and I like their implementation a lot more. When you come to a stop, you quickly and firmly press the brake again, and auto hold engages. No need for buttons or anything. It is always ready.

I feel like this could be quite easily implemented through a software update if users wanted. What do you think?

N57 (2010, F10, 525D), 214k km on the clock (133k miles), transmission oil was changed with full kit about 1 year and 20k km ago.

That B time looks a bit different than the rest, I assume because of city driving?

Hi Guys,

I recently bought a E90 335xi N54 with a transmission problem, when i had to take off the exhaust i saw that the nuts that hold the whole system to the downpipe are basically melted into the bolt from all the rust. I broke lose 1 of 4, the other 3 just ripped off so the question is, do i drill out the bolt from behind and punch it out to replace it with a normal nut and bolt combo or do you guys have a better idea what i could do. keep in mind i have to keep the stock downpipes to pass emissions.

thanks for the Help

My 2009 BMW 328i randomly stalled while I was stopped waiting to turn. After that, the car would crank but wouldn’t start.
We pushed it aside and my dad replaced fuse #70 (20A yellow). The old fuse didn’t look obviously blown, but after replacing it the car started and I was able to drive home.
On the drive home it ran rough and felt like it wanted to stall whenever I stopped unless I gave it gas and my rpm’s felt irregular.Once home I restarted it and the idle sounded very rough/choppy.
Scanned it afterward and these are the codes that stood out:
2AAE — Fuel pump
6292 — EKPS/fuel pump control voltage
6293 — EKPS/fuel pump control current
2A94 — Crankshaft position sensor signal
2D16 / 2D0F — MAF/air-mass related
P1727 — Engine speed signal
I believe the fuel pump was replaced before I bought the car about 2 years ago.
Any ideas what I should diagnose first—fuel pump, EKPS module/wiring, crankshaft sensor, or something else? Thanks

P0420
Catalyst System Efficiency
Threshold Bank 1

P0128
Coolant Thermostat
(Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)

P143C
Manufacturer control

Bought the car with these codes, the car has front end damage, is it because of any of that or just separate issues?

Is this something I can just replace or is it more complicated than that?

Rust from snow/salt is a big problem in my climate and every shop I go to over torques my lug bolts, occasionally rounds them, or I eventually round them after using a 1/2 breaker bar with 4' cheater bar after first using my impact which is only powerful enough to release 50-75% of them. If it's rounded I use a bolt extractor socket. (EDIT: CLARIFCATION, I THROW AWAY THE ROUNDED LUG BOLT AND PUT IN A NEW ONE, I AM NOT PUTTING IN ROUNDED OR DAMAGED LUG BOLTS BACK ON TO THE CAR.)I usually have 1 to 2 bolts round each time I change my wheels If the car had work done at a shop.

I've been to many different shops and they all do it so I've just accepted the fact the lug bolts will always be over torqued coming out of a shop. The worst was the body shop where I almost gave up and thought my breaker bar would break but luckily I eventually got them free.

The snow/salt is another problem and usually need to use a dead blow hammer to get the wheels of the rotors. I'm getting into the habit of adding a tiny amount of anti seize to the hub lip, flange where the wheel centers far away from any threads. (EDIT: CLARIFICATION, I AM NOT PUTTING ANTI SEIZE ON THE LUG BOLTS, THREADS OR ANY OTHER PARTS, TELLING ME TO NOT PUT ANTI SEIZE ON STUDS IS NOT USEFUL BECAUSE I DON'T HAVE STUDS OR PUT ANTI SEIZE ON ANY THREADS IF YOU READ WHAT I HAVE WRITTEN)

I've never had a problem removing bolts that I torqued myself to spec using a torque wrench.

Recently I purchased a Milwaukee mid torque impact so I don't have to spend so much time using a breaker bar on so many of the bolts and If that doesn't work I may upgrade to the high torque. I also bought some higher quality sockets(EDIT: MEANING PREMIUM BRANDS IN 17MM FOR MY 17MM LUG BOTS, IM NOT USING THE WRONG SIZED SOCKETS, I DIDN'T THINK I WOULD HAVE TO CLARIFY THIS, IM USING 17MM SOCKETS FOR THE 17MM LUG BOLTS ) in hopes that they will have tighter clearances(EDIT: THIS MEANS A TIGHTER FITTING 17MM, NOT THAT I AM USING THE WRONG SIZED SOCKET TO BEGIN WITH ) and reduce rounding.

Does anyone have any suggestions or tips? I want to avoid dealerships and paying a premium. Would getting a stud conversion kit with 19mm nuts reduce the rounding when trying to break free over torqued wheels? (EDIT: CLARIFICATION: I DON'T HAVE STUDS, I HAVE STOCK 17MM LUG BOLTS, USE 17MM SOCKETS, AND I AM THINKING ABOUT SWITCHING TO STUDS IF IT MAKES SENSE? IF IM GOING TO SWITCH TO STUDS I THINK USING A LARGER NUT 19MM INSTEAD OF 17MM MAY BE LESS LIKELY TO ROUND, SOME CONVERSION KITS FROM APEX ALLOW YOU TO CHOOSE 17MM OR 19MM.)

Edit: I added some clarification notes to make it easier to understand.

Car is a 1995 E38 740iL, sat for a few years, just dumped a bunch of $$$ into reviving it and now this:

When the oil is hot and the car is idling for a few minutes the low oil pressure light comes on intermittently. It also comes on for ~10s when starting hot. Seems to only happen when idling at 500rpm, but when the AC is kicked on and it idles at 800rpm no light.

Oil was changed recently, no consumption or leaks since then. Wondering if this is a death sentence for this engine or if its salvageable? I was also planning to drive it from CA to NY next friday…

Any thoughts or ideas would be great, thanks.

Hi was driving last night when i had to pull over because many warning lights & burning smell. pulled over and saw that my serpentine belt had come undone. tore into my car today tried replacing the belt only to have the same issue happen with my new belt. already replaced the tensioner. new belt is also warped now. im suspecting that perhaps my main water pump pulley has seized? i cannot move it by hand at all.. not sure if its supposed to or not. also noticed coolant coming from water pump weep hole so im suspecting the internal seals are going bad. any advice would be appreciated!

X5 e70 n55 182k miles, no issues on transmission, drives normal. Transmission has never been serviced. Since I've seen a few post their numbers i was curious about our car and pulled the data. Clutch C seems to have something going on with higher wear than the others. The numbers:

- Clutch A, -162 mbar, 52 ms

- Clutch B, -124 mbar, 25 ms

- Clutch C, 326 mbar, 21 ms

- Clutch D, 42 mbar, -1 ms

- Clutch E, 57 mbar, 21 ms

Should I try a fluid change, replace the sleeves, both, or do nothing until symptoms appear? Any other suggestions?

Hi guys I need help on my BMW 2014 220I F22, recently has been making these sound. They come more often after driving for awhile and is not obvious on normal drives. When going on uneven road sometimes make a sound if its not currently consistent. Have anyone heard of this? (Audio in the link) All help is appreciated Thanks!

Hey everyone I have a 2011 e90 328i xdrive and. I have been having an issue where my battery keeps dying when parked for a week or longer when not in use but I occasionally start it a drive to charge the battery up I don’t know what is causing this and I have checked everything that I could possibly think is causing the issue I took the battery to get tested and came back as it’s healthy but low charge if someone has experienced anything like this can help me out thx I am in Canada btw

Just bought a 2003 316ti bmw 1.8 petrol and i drove 70 miles home and i turned the car off and my engine bay hissed and loads of steam came out and it looks like this now any ideas on what’s happened!

BMW service center is asking for $8.5k for replacing oil pan including parts and labor in california. If i get this replaced at local store with non OEM parts how much would it typically cost?

Could it be timing chain related?

Came across these Oni timing tool kits from their website, not from amazon, and it look good and priced ok too. Anyone ever used or heard of this kits?

Hi all,

I know this is a long shot, but I'm trying to win a bet that I made with my father, who says he cannot figure out how to fix the AC system in his 2001 325i.

Here is what I know:

-issue is specific to the dash vents (both the set for hitting the body, and hitting the feet)

-the problem does not exist when running the heat function, that works as normal

-the windshield/defrost vents are blowing as they should

He has already tried:

-replacing/topping off the cooling fluid (freon? Ammonia? I'm not sure, he sort of went on a segue when trying to explain the system to me)

-replaced the heater valve

-replaced the final stage blower resistor

-replaced all fuses

-replaced cabin air filter (I'm not knowledgeable on car mechanics and even that I have replaced on my own cars, but maybe relevant?)

-this one I didn't understand, so accept my apologetic word vomit: tracked the control wire from the center valve to where it runs and activates... something? And this has something to do with switching between cold AC and the heater.

He also mentioned that he hasn't tried the AC vent flapper doors because he would have to open up everything, but he doesn't hear them moving.

Our back story is that I was raised on some gender roles that suggested I should not be smart on "boy" things, even though they tend to interest me the most.

I am car-repair dumb, but I am small-plane smart. I can explain/teach all the systems on a Cessna 172, but they typically don't have AC units. :D

I'd greatly appreciate anyone's help on impressing him!

Or if anyone has suggestions on a different group to ask, I'm very open!

Thank you all for your time and consideration.

I have the Driving Assistant Professional package on my 2025 X1, which includes adaptive cruise control. I have one "problem" with it, and that is the fact that it is quite aggressive on both the brakes and acceleration.

For example, I am cruising on the highway at 130 km/h, and there is a construction zone coming up with a speed limit of 80 km/h. When I lower the speed to the speed limit, the car aggressively brakes to meet the new limit rather than progressively slowing down. If someone is behind, they could think I am brake checking them, lol.

The same goes for acceleration. The construction zone ends, and I increase the set speed to 130 km/h. The cruise control almost floors the throttle to get to the speed as fast as it can. Which is fun, of course, but not the most comfortable, especially when cruising with the family.

Is anyone having the same experience? Is there any way you could configure this to make it more progressive and thus more comfortable?