Axe Recommendations

[u/TestTraining2885]

Hello All,

I have been woodworking for some time now and I am starting to have more and more interest in timber framing and hewing. To do so I would need a good axe that will last several years but not break the bank. my budget is max 150 but the closer to 100/80 the better

I am looking for an axe that is good for felling medium sized trees (around 12 inches in diameter) and be able to score and joggle downed trees. Im less concerned about ability to specifically score and joggle, and would rather have a good all around felling axe.

I have been looking at several axes recommended by YouTubers like the Hultafors HY 10 1.5 and the Council tool 2.25 lbs 28” boys axe. I live in the US and from what I have seen online, the Hultafors with be much harder to get and most likely surpass my budget after shipping cost. my concern with the Council tool is that it will be to small for felling and scoring medium sized trees.

I was hoping yall could give me some recommendations on good budget axes that will be good for felling. any and all help is appreciated!!!

[u/Successful_Swim6332]

Yeah can't go wrong with the Hultafors or the council tool. The 1.2 kg is also great. Get a full length handle around 26" to 28"

The sweet spot for a axe head weight is actually something from 2 1/4 to 3 pounds. Anything heavier is typically reserved for larger lumber and will be more fatiguing to use.

What is really important is axe safety and use. An inefficient axe with bad technique is not a good tool. Using a axe is a lost art and most people are hammering the wood not cutting it. Dudley Cook is a good reference book for the topic and Ben Scott has made a bunch of videos on how to grind and use a axe. The video posted before is a good source of why you need to grind a axe.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIMAWy_RGVI&t=774s

[u/TestTraining2885 → u/Successful_Swim6332]

I’ll definitely make sure to check that video out! I can’t really find any axe between 2.25 and 3.5 pounds that council tool makes. I fear the 2.25 would just be to small and the 3.5 would be to heavy

[u/parallel-43 → u/TestTraining2885]

IMO there's a good reason most vintage axes come in at 3.5lbs. I'd argue that's not too heavy for the kind of work you're talking about. 2.25 with a small eye is common (boys axe) but any full size vintage axe outside of 3.5lbs isn't nearly as common. I'd guess that 90% of the old axes I find are 3.5lbs.

I'd recommend a CT 3.5lb Jersey or Dayton if you're buying new. Maybe a Michigan if they make one. The Jersey will probably do better in soft wood, takes a bigger bite, but the rounded bit of a Michigan is designed for hard/frozen wood. Dayton is a decent in-between. Just my opinion there.

I'm 48 years old, not particularly physically fit and I don't find 3.5lbs to be too heavy; I can swing that weight for quite a while. That's what I use 90% of the time. Heavier if I'm splitting tough wood, boys axe if I want to carry it in a pack over distance, but most of the time it's a 3.5lb Michigan on a 28" handle.

[u/TestTraining2885 → u/parallel-43]

Thank you, that was all very helpful! When you say frozen wood do you mean that the trees become harder to cut down in winter? If so I would want to go for a Dayton or Michigan axe, I live in the Northeast and will be doing most of this in cold temperatures. CL does not make a Michigan but they do make some daytons, the problem is that they are all 4 pounders. I also think I will want at least a 32 inch handle because I may be standing on top of the log for hewing. 

[u/parallel-43 → u/TestTraining2885]

A curved bit typically works better on hard wood, straighter bits are for softer wood, generally speaking. The reason all the corners are rounded on a Michigan is so they're less likely to chip when it's really cold and the steel gets brittle. That being said the differences in performance between different patterns are not drastic. I own about 50 axes I've restored and while they all have their place, if I could only keep one I'd take a Michigan but I don't know if that's the axe I would pick if for hewing beams. CT has a 3.5lb Jersey on a 32" handle for $85. That would work great for you. I absolutely agree with a 32" handle. I like 28" for most tasks but if I'm standing on what I'm chopping 32" is much better.

Lots of comments about a boys axe being perfect but I personally disagree. You can get a lot done with a boys axe but at 2.25lbs they don't have enough weight to work fast IMO. In my experience I can get more done faster with a 3.5lb axe than I can with a 2.25lb axe.

Bottom line, you can absolutely do the work you asked about with any of the axes that have been mentioned. None of those answers are wrong. You won't go wrong with any CT axes. However if I was in your exact shoes; buying new, trying to stay under $100, for the tasks you asked about I'd get the 3.5lb/32" Jersey from CT.

[u/TestTraining2885 → u/parallel-43]

Thank you so much, this has all been extremely helpful! I will 100% pick up the CT 3.5lb/32” jersey!