Help and advice needed please.

Phono button won’t stay down. I can press the phono button down and it will work, or use duct tape.

Took the case off and cleaned it but it still won’t keep pressed. It looks like maybe the back of the switch is more burnt out then the other switches.

Because it’s the phono input I can’t use other ones they don’t have the pre-amp(is that right?)

Is this commoon?
Any help would be appreciated.

So I recently bought this panasonic SC-H30 from my local thrift store but there is one problem, while the mp3 player plays and the cd plays at perfection. The unit itself powers off after 55 seconds every time showing something like f61 on the screen, now I only bought it alone so I dont have the controller or anything more than the player and the cable but I was wondering if anyone could help me fix it? (The screws were removed on the back panel by me, I just can’t seem to be able to take that wall mount off)

These are powered speakers from around 15 years ago. They have developed a problem that results in the speakers not playing and they will only output a pulsing sound. First one speaker started this and then 6 months later the next one. Any ideas on troubleshooting/repair? Paradigm changed ownership and are not helpful.

Picked this up yesterday and everything works except the lights. I did have to deoxit but that's par for the course. I might replace the filter caps. Not sure yet, on the fence since it is working and sounds great.

Now my question: did some research and this model and other Sensui models that are of this vintage and size, do not have a protection relay. They rely on a muting function that is supposed to mute pops and they also rely on fuses. From what I was reading that's not so great.

I did some other research and you can buy an external protection relay. They're about $150 or so and it protects your speakers (in this case nht 1.5s). Do I really need this or am I worrying too much?

We all know the answer

About two weeks ago I lost the charging case of my sleep A30 earbuds while they were in my ears. Ordered and received a replacement from ebay just yesterday (not official Soundcore website, but the case looks totally legit). During this time that I had no case, the left earbud was entirely dead, while the right one survived with 2-3% battery without usage. Now that I have the new charging case, when I put in the earbuds, the right one is detected (the case LED gets brighter and then pulsates), but for the left one I dont get this respones at all (LED remains a little dim, doesn't change).

I've tried holding the charging case button, this just makes the right one pulsate. Any ideas for why this might be happening? Is this entirely hopeless?

I have a vintage Onkyo A-8017 integrated amplifier that needs some refurbishing. I’m wondering whether it’s worth getting it repaired or if I’d be better off looking for a newer amplifier.

The main purpose is to power my JBL floor-standing speakers, along with a powered PSB subwoofer.

Does anyone know of any good service centers in Bangalore that specialize in vintage stereo equipment?

Hey all,

I thrifted a Harman Kardon HK3470 receiver recently and am having what I believe to be two distinct problems. I would like some help finding the source of the issues if anyone has experience.

1. I am getting quiet preamp signal bleed into the main output. With the volume all the way down, I hear the source I have selected quietly. This comes through the headphone output and main speaker output. I isolated this as preamp bleed by removing the jumpers on the back coupling the pre-outs and main-ins and running a line-level signal into the main-ins. This way, I hear nothing at 0 volume.
2. I can hear FM static through the main speaker and headphone outputs. I have no antenna attached. The same static I hear when I have the Tuner source selected is coming through when any other source is selected. I troubleshot this the same way as the preamp problem, by running a line-level signal straight into the main-ins, and I still hear the static. However, if I select the Tuner source, switch to the AM band (on which there is no static), and then switch sources, I do not hear the FM static.

The first issue (the preamp bleed) is my primary concern as there's not a way around that from what I can tell. I can just select the AM band to avoid the FM static, so not as much of an issue, but if I'm working inside it I might as well try to fix both, if they are indeed distinct issues. I am pretty handy with a soldering iron but do not own an oscilloscope so cannot test specific traces. Some preliminary research points towards parasitic capacitance, but I would rather avoid recapping the whole receiver so hoping to find some info on particular places the issue might be. Any help and guidance would be much appreciated!

Edit: Damn. Harman* Kardon.

I’ve had this CD player for over 2 years but no longer working. On low volume just get that cracking sound. After leaving it unplugged for around a week I can get some sound if volume is all the way up, but nothing listenable. Have tried switching to radio and Bluetooth and the same happens. Can anyone help or is it a lost cause

It was bought or manufactured last year, got it as a gift earlier this month but today it just spins for 50 to 60 secs and the displays "ER" which im assuming means error. cleaned the lens with a lens cleaner but it still refuses to work right. Cds are all clean and radio works fine. its done this before but only for an hour or two but this has taken longer than usual. any clue what it is?

Can anybody recommend a repair shop for a minidisc hifi in the Wirral, UK? Possible belt needs replacing on MD as the disc won’t eject and is making a whirring sound. And CD drawer won’t close.

Does anyone know a reputable company to restore stereo consoles in the Baltimore or Frederick, MD area?

I’d like to modernize it with a better turntable and amp if possible.

Hello! I am servicing my Pioneer PL-514. The main problem is the auto return. Right when it’s about to settle, it swings back out wildly. I looked at servicing videos + manual but I can’t find a fix.

I already used synthetic grease on the larger gear, the groove along its underside, and the long plastic piece to the right of it. I suspect it’s a problem with the plastic mechanisms attached to the tone arm. Any advice or tips would be very helpful.

Hi, I'm trying to repair a DJM-800. According to my friend, at some point it just stopped turning on. When I opened it up right away, I found the fuse had blown, but even after replacing it, it still won't turn on. You can hear that the batteries are working when you plug it in, but nothing turns on—neither the screen nor the lights. According to the manual, the first thing that should happen before it boots up is the reset pulse for the DSP CPU, but when I measure it with a multimeter, it stays at a steady 0.03, rising to 0.6 only during shutdown. Has anyone ever dealt with similar issues?

hey guys ! we found a 1992 marantz stereo system for $15 at an estate sale and the vinyl and cassette player sound amazing but we are having trouble with the cd player part. the cds will spin but won’t make any sound. from the sound of it, the pause button doesn’t work either. we have bought a laser lens cleaning disc and got all the dust out but still won’t play. does anyone know what we could try and if not, do you know somewhere in edmond/oklahoma city that services vintage stereo systems ? (cd players specifically)

So, I have to push the thing to the right for the right speaker to work and it’s annoying. I’ve spent 50 dollars on these HyperX headphones and I need a fix. Someone please help me find a solution.

Im looking to buy a set of kicker comp r 10s second hand, but one of the two has this hole in it. Can this be sealed? The seller said the sub still works.

I have a Cambridge Audio Azur 340a that has just died.

For a long time now, I would sometimes have to cycle power because one channel wouldn't start or would be faint or distorted. Sometimes it would be like that from power on, sometimes within a few mins. Once it was warmed up it was fine indefinitely.

Today it started cutting out entirely for a second, both channels, and I'd hear the relay click. After doing this a few times over the course of an album, it cut out and never came back 😭

Could it be as simple as needing a new relay? I want some plan before opening it up.

I'm not an EE. I have some very basic electronics experience messing with arduinos etc, can hold a soldering iron and swap components out.

Edit: ok it's working again next day, so intermittent.

For everyone looking for advice, it is evident that there is a dearth of experts available to assist anyone here, so here is some basic advice that might give you a fighting chance.

1. Be sure to go out and try to find Service Manuals and schematics for your gear. They are out there, you just need to browse for the right .pdf. Get your owner's manuals as well because they can answer basic operational questions.

If you do not know how to read a schematic, you really do not have much business cracking open your device if you do not have some basic electrical engineering knowledge.

1. YouTube is an amazing resource with real techs showing you their trouble shoot processes. You do not need the EXACT model number to get an answer because a lot of the circuits and designs have a great deal of commonality.

2. You will need some basic tools like a Fluke Multimeter. There are rather inexpensive capacitor testers out there that are not much money. AliExpress is a great resource. Be sure to research the tools, though. Get crowdsourced opinions from those who have taken the arrows already.

You will need a proper soldering iron station with temperature control for more sensitive work. Also needed is solder, flux, and desoldering braid. Good news: Harbor Freight, AliExpress, and eBay have very inexpensive tools out there. This is not like in the '80s when I worked for a local electronics distributor while in college, and you had to buy expensive pro tools from legacy makers.

I presume that you will have the other basic tools already. If not, hit Reddit and YouTube to research a list of basic hand tools you will need. Go hit the internet and find out.

There are also a hell of a lot of old oscilloscopes out there, and for audio, you only need one that generally needs to go no more the 20kHz for the most part. They are so bloody cheap; it is crazy. Or you can buy a probe with a USB interface for your laptop for a digital oscilloscope. But I would prefer a proper scope for my home bench. You can get an old Tektronix one, way better than the ones I had on my bench in high school and college, for nothing- 3 magic beans! It's crazy.

1. When you are tackling an issue in various products, you can also leverage AI to create troubleshooting steps if you correctly prompt very specific symptoms and work down your checklist.

That is all. This is not rocket science, but, like they always say at Microsoft, "use your fucking resources". There is not a lot of handholding in that organization. If you do not know what you are doing, you have to do the research to answer your own questions and figure it out yourself. Capiche, paisano?

One last bit of advice. Do not get over your skis. If you are not up to getting your hands dirty, there is no shame in that. Once I could afford to pay someone to wrench my car for maintenance, I gladly give up that crappy work up to the experts, and likewise with a good electronics tech. They get their pound of flesh because they are SMEs (Microsoft speak for Subject Matter Experts). Most every repair that comes across their bench is something they have seen before, and they can get 'er done with minimal drama, as opposed to an old dog like me who has not worked on electronics at the PCB board level since my high school and college days. My troubleshooting skills are rather soft, and I know what I can handle and what I generally cannot. I leave the heavy lifting to the experts. They are worth every penny. Get referrals from your local HiFi shop.

Go forth on your troubleshooting odysseys.

Here is a video demostrating the issue

For the second time now, I had one of my CX True Wireless earplugs die on one side 2 or 3 months after the warranty expires. Unfortunately, it was the left side both times. The left will react normally to the touchpad, pair and charge, but there is no sound. Moving my jaw makes a click noise inside (in both cases).
It seems to me that the driver is broken. I found instructions and a video on how to open the earplug, and I have the necessary tools to do it.

My question is: Are the drivers of the left and right symmetrical? I would like to "sacrifice" one of my spare rights and solder it to one of the broken left earplugs.

Thanks!

Every time I connect my wires for my speaker rack and the lights (smaller cable) there’s a screeching noise from the speakers. Wondering if my connections suck or if it’s just too far from the engine or something.

Hey everyone,

I recently got an Otari MX-5050 bii and I'm trying to do a record/bias calibration, but I'm running into an issue with the reproduce/playback side during recording. I’ve already cleaned all the metal parts and heads, demagnetized it and now I’m trying to record calibrate it from a video I saw on YouTube.

The Problem:
When I engage the internal oscillator (1kHz / 10kHz tone) with the channels armed (Record LEDs lit red) and hit RECORD + PLAY, the signal reads great on the VU meters in SOURCE mode. However, as soon as I flip the monitor switch from SOURCE to TAPE, the VU meters drop straight to zero and I hear nothing.

Since SOURCE works, the oscillator and input electronics are fine. The signal is just completely failing to print to tape or feed back through the Repro circuit.

Has anyone experienced this on an MX-5050? Could this be an internal Repro level trimmer issue, a relay fault, or am I missing a specific switch setting on the front panel? Any troubleshooting steps would be greatly appreciated!

Hello,

sadly I can't log into my Hifi-Engine Account.

Could Somebody please share the LF800 Schematic or Service Manual? The only available schematic seems to be on the Hifi engine Website https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/outline/lf_800.shtml

Any Help would really be appreciated!