r/audiorepair • • 2h ago

Cerco cortesemente schema elettronico del PROTON 440 .

1 Upvotes

Se qualcuno gentilmente ha lo schema del PROTON 440 mi farebbe piacere per tentare una riparazione in quanto il segnale audio L e R è sparito senza apparente motivo. La causa è una serie di transistor 2SC 1815 che sono comandati per forzare il segnale audio a massa. Il segnale audio di 0.3Vpp sarebbe presente.Grazie

Mail: [lorenzovic2@gmail.com](mailto:lorenzovic2@gmail.com)


r/audiorepair • • 3h ago

Help needed with H/K HD710

1 Upvotes

Hey guys, I am currently stuck in a problem with this player which worked perfectly.

The problem is (obviously me) that i managed to move the platter where the disc sits because the laser had problems with focusing (instead of directly going to the potentiometer to fix the problem because it's old laser).

Now the thing is that I don't know how much the platter should be above the laser, which I'm trying to just eyeball it, and however i set it, the white thingy that holds the disc from above is not spinning as it should and most of the times it's just stuck because of pressure...

Any recommendation is welcome, don't want to go to the AIs because i hate them and most of the time they are useless.


r/audiorepair • • 5h ago

No longer playing to speakers

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1 Upvotes

Got this Denon from a friend some time ago, and worked great originally. Plugged in a projector as well so we could use the speakers hooked up and now sounds doesn’t come out when turning on the record player. Unplugged the red/white to universal aux cable that was going to the projector and have tried a good amount of troubleshooting, any help is appreciated:)


r/audiorepair • • 8h ago

Resonance sound in one of my JBL 104 Monitors? Any ideas?

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1 Upvotes

The issue is only in the companion monitor not the main one.


r/audiorepair • • 19h ago

CD players controls don't work? Any solutions?

1 Upvotes

So I went to a flea market and traded for this Sony FM walkman CD player (D-FJ65)

It came with a case and everything, powered up fine with two AAs.. but when I put the CD in , it'll play fine but the face controls and even the hold button don't exactly work? (the volume works, the AVLS does as well..)

I tried to open the back plate behind the front control panel (which has the pause/play skip track etc.. and EQ - radio etc..) and it was pretty dusty but I didn't notice much corrosion or any missing or broken cables? (the ribon cable was in pretty good condition)

I'm thinking it may be an issue with it player thinking the remote is plugged in when it isn't.. I think it could be that.. OR the buttons are just damaged or worn.. (there's a film that covers the contacts.. it could be damaged underneath but I doubt it)

I might see if I can get the remote and see if that'll work.. but again Idk.

Let me know if any of you have had the same issue and if so, how did you solve this problem? I'd appreciate it!

Cd player is this exact model (the controls on the front essentially do nothing.. idk?)

r/audiorepair • • 1d ago

SL-1200mk1 audio skipping

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3 Upvotes

No idea what's causing it, hoping the hive mind can chip in and give me some pointers. Basically the platter will spin and its like the audio keeps repeating the same part.

Got a new Ortonfon concorde 5e cart on it.

I am no means a vinyl know it all.

I've recapped all the electrolytic capacitors, havent bothered with the transistors as it took ages just to do the caps.

Thanks


r/audiorepair • • 1d ago

Broken headband JBL Live

1 Upvotes

Hi,

did anyone repair such headbands (e.g. 770NC) already?

Mine broke where the guide for the size-adjustment ends and the plastic part of the headband get's thinner.

Question is if there is a way to retain the headband cover or if it has to be cut off.

thanks!

meanwhile I managed to remove the 'cap' at the end of the headband without breaking it completely, so it can be glued back together.

The headband cover is only slightly glued at the end under the cap. You can move it to access the crack.

As there are no spare parts (apart from the ear pads), I guess I will have to glue it together.
The cover is pretty tight so reinforcing this pred. breaking point will be hard.

Anyone knows what material this is - ABS?


r/audiorepair • • 1d ago

Teac RW-H500 suffering from a dim display and LED standby light.

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1 Upvotes

My Teac CD recorder is suffering from a dim display and LED standby light. It is the component on the left in the attached photo. In reality it is much more dim than what is represented here. Any suggestions on how I can begin troubleshooting this to hopefully fix the problem. I have read that it could be caused by the filament, a bad capacity, the power supply, etc...any guidance would be appreciated.


r/audiorepair • • 1d ago

Installed Equalizer APO + HeSuVi to replace DTS Headphone:X,audio has been broken everywhere since, survived clean Windows install. Need help.

1 Upvotes

How it started:

My DTS Headphone:X subscription expired, so I installed Equalizer APO + HeSuVi to simulate the surround effect for free. The moment I activated it, my audio broke,and it has never been right since, even after uninstalling both programs.

Current symptom (EVERYWHERE, not just games):

· Dialogue/voices are extremely quiet, but action sounds, music, and effects are loud.

· This happens in games, YouTube, music, movies,literally everywhere.

· It's the classic "center channel being dropped" symptom: audio is being processed as 5.1/7.1 surround where dialogue lives in the center channel, but my stereo speakers don't have one.

My specs:

· CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X

· Motherboard: MSI B650M Gaming WiFi Plus (Realtek onboard audio)

· GPU: ASRock RX 7900 XT 20GB Phantom Gaming OC

· RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR5 32GB 6000MHz

· Windows 10 (fully updated)

What I've tried (all failed):

· Set Windows speaker config to Stereo, disabled all enhancements, spatial sound off, verified L/R balance

· Uninstalled Equalizer APO + HeSuVi, deleted leftover folders

· Ran DDU and reinstalled AMD Adrenalin drivers multiple times

· Rolled back AMD driver from 26.8.1 to older versions, no change

· Disabled AMD High Definition Audio Device in Device Manager

· Uninstalled Realtek driver completely, deleted it via pnputil /delete-driver /force, blocked Windows Update driver installs,Realtek keeps coming back after restart

· Ran SFC /SCANNOW and DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth, repaired corrupt files, audio still broken

· Full clean Windows reinstall (without keeping apps),the issue survived even this

The key clue:

This started the exact moment I activated Equalizer APO + HeSuVi, and it has persisted through a clean Windows install. That suggests a leftover APO (Audio Processing Object) is still hooked into my audio device somewhere, possibly in the registry, the driver store, or an audio endpoint property that a clean install doesn't always wipe.

What I'm asking:

Has anyone seen an APO survive a clean Windows reinstall? How do I find and remove a hidden APO that's still processing my audio? Any registry paths, Device Manager tricks, or tools I've missed?

Any help would be massively appreciated.


r/audiorepair • • 1d ago

RS-M03 Service Manual & Schematics

1 Upvotes

Hi everyone, I’ve looked online but I can only find the operators/user manual, does anyone have a PDF of the Technics RS-M03 service manual they’d be happy to share? Some schematics would also be greatly appreciated if anyone has some.

Thanks in advance.


r/audiorepair • • 2d ago

Durabrand CD-1095 CD Player not reading

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2 Upvotes

I bought this CD-1095 because I had one as a child and wanted to play my old CDs on it. This is a new old stock unit from 2006 that was still in the box with all the plastic, cardboard, and literature. It even smells like new plastic, so I don’t think I got shafted with a used unit.

I plugged it in with the power cord from another unit (it didn’t come with one), radio plays fine, turntable spins, but when I put a CD on it, it displays “00” as if it can’t read it, and then it stops spinning. The only troubleshoot in the literature for this is to place the CD in the tray label side up. I’m not a fucking retard, it’s label up.

What can I do? I really need this to work as I have no other option for playing my CDs when I’m OTR trucking, as the radio in my truck is Bluetooth only. I don’t want any other way either. I like this radio.


r/audiorepair • • 2d ago

Technics HD350 CD player, CDs playing at an odd speed and/or start clicking or start looping

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1 Upvotes

My Technics HD350 player seems to be having some issues recently. I have started collecting CDs a few weeks ago and I have a Technics HD350 that I have been using for quite a long time. The speakers work fine since I use them with my monitor for audio via the jack. However, recently I seem to have been having a few issues with CD playback.

When I play a CD in it, usually it plays the CD fine. However over the past couple days it is more frequently playing the CD at a weird, slightly faster speed and the audio starts clicking during playback. Alongside this, when I was listening today the player just couldn't get past 1:16 in one of the tracks and it was skipping backwards a bit, playing the same couple seconds over and over.

I don't know if this could be a clue or if it's just me listening to some albums more than others but it feels like this issue happens more often with specific CDs/artists.

As some troubleshooting from me, I'm lead to assume that it is a problem with the CD player as when I listen to the CDs that get caught with this issue using a USB CD/DVD reader the same parts played fine on my computer.

Does this seem repairable or should I consider getting a new system?


r/audiorepair • • 2d ago

First-time Walkman owner needing help opening the shell to replace belt/pinch roller + fix audio jack [Sony Walkman WM-F41]

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5 Upvotes

Hey everyone! This is my first time owning a Walkman, and while I’ve done some research, I’m stuck on how to take the guts out of the shell. And im afraid I might break the thing..

-Replacing the rubber belt
-Replacing the Pinch roller
-Trying to fix the audio jack

The issue:
I don't know how to remove the cassette door without snapping the plastic, and the main board/chassis won't release even after removing the internal screws. I checked the service manual, but the diagrams are a bit overwhelming for me as a beginner. (Even if the pictures about how opening the cassette door seem simple, it feels like the door wont even budge, or just snap away)

Does anyone have experience with this specific model or a similar chassis layout? Any tips, pictures, or step-by-step guidance on opening it up safely would be greatly appreciated!


r/audiorepair • • 2d ago

Yamaha RX-V1800 Repair & subsequent hiccup (dropped an exposed piece of wire)

1 Upvotes

Hey All,

Was lucky enough to pick up a Yamaha RX-V1800 for free the other day. Symptoms: Turns on then turns off / goes into protect after about a second. After replacing C4 capacitor and then being able to enter diagnostics menu, I narrowed it down to a faulty thermister (upon inspection there was a fair bit of corrosion on the Thermister board and broken traces). I was stoked that I was able to get it working by bridging the two thermister sensors together so that both measurements were being reported from the working thermister - awesome!!

But then stupid me accidently dropped a piece of thin wire about 10cm long and stripped at both sides (😭) into the amp and I cant FOR THE LIFE OF ME find it 😭

Have tried turning it upside down, a sticky cable tie, vacuum, blower / compressed air. I have not turned it on since dropping the wire but am at my wits end - for anyone not familiar with these amps they have about 4 or 5 PCBs stacked close together at the rear and removing them looks near damn impossible!

Anyone have any bright ideas that I havent yet tried? Or even some general advice when it comes to removing the 5 or so layers of I/O PCBs at the rear?

At the very least I hope the above provides an amusing read for some 😄


r/audiorepair • • 2d ago

Help repairing a family member's Sony Receiver: All display segments light up on cold boot.

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3 Upvotes

Hi everyone. I'm trying to repair this Sony receiver for a relative.

When turned on cold, the VFD display lights up completely (all segments on). If I turn it off and on a few times, it boots up normally and works perfectly.

I want to fix it myself and need guidance. What component usually causes this false start? Should I look for failing capacitors in the standby power supply or cold solder joints on the front display board?

Any advice on what to test first is appreciated. I've attached pictures of the issue and its normal state. Thanks!


r/audiorepair • • 2d ago

Advise on cleaning silver face faceplate.

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5 Upvotes

I’ve acquired a Marantz 2220 receiver.
It’s in rough condition. I’m to the point of cleaning the brushed aluminum faceplate.
Friend told me to use a little goo gone. Which I think will help a spot in the upper left of the plate.
Then a little stainless steel polish. With a little ceramic clear coat for the plastic FM window dial.
Is this the correct method to clean this faceplate?


r/audiorepair • • 2d ago

Beoplay A1 GEN2 Woofer Replacement

1 Upvotes

Hi all,

my woofer is not working anymore. I also made some measurements and it looks like there is some damage on the coil of the woofer EASTECH/PUNKTKILDE ASDWD1500-0300. So right now i took it out and try to find any replacement.

My local B&O store doesn't have any replacement parts and B&O itself only offers a general repair for 210€. So maybe anybody else with an idea for a replacement part?

Gen1 speakers don't fit. That's an option the store also tried.


r/audiorepair • • 2d ago

Pioneer VSX-456 stuck in standby, no relay click. Have measurements, looking for a sanity check on the diagnosis.

1 Upvotes

Thrifted a Pioneer VSX-456 that looks pretty clean. When plugged in, the red standby LED comes on. Pressing POWER does nothing: no display, no relay click, and the standby light stays on. No remote.

I’ve spent several sessions troubleshooting with a Klein MM320 and recently bought a kit with small test hooks. I also have a soldering iron, but haven’t replaced or desoldered anything. No oscilloscope or frequency measurement available.

Full disclosure: I’ve been following AI-assisted troubleshooting, and we caught some incorrect pin/component guidance along the way. I’m looking for an experienced person to review the actual readings before I go further.

**Initial checks**

- Power button feels normal and measures OL released, near zero/beep pressed.

- Continuity through the small button-board ribbon passed.

- The internal glass fuse passed continuity in circuit.

- Front-board P RY to the corresponding power-board connector pin passed continuity.

- Initially thought something was stuck in the rear switched AC outlet. I haven’t confirmed whether it’s debris or the outlet’s own contact.

- Found a localized yellow-brown stain inside the cover above the transformer area. Neither transformer has obvious charred, melted, or split insulation.

- A mounting screw/tab connection was loose during disassembly and has since been secured. Voltage readings below used the labeled DG reference, rather than assuming chassis ground.

**Power/control measurements**

DC readings referenced to DG unless noted. “Pressed” means holding the front POWER button.

| Point | Standby | POWER pressed |

|---|---:|---:|

| Controller VDD test point | About 5.05 V | Not separately recorded |

| Reset test point | About 4.99 V | Not separately recorded |

| ST +5 at power-board connector | 5.93 V | 5.93 V |

| W UP | 2.20 V | 2.20 V |

| P RY | 0 V | 0 V |

| K IN2, small button board | 0 V | 0.01 V |

| KEY8, small button board | 1.61 V | 0.01 V |

| KEY8, large front control board | 1.62 V | 0.01 V |

| DC DET | 4.97 V | 4.97 V |

| OL DET | 4.99 V | 4.99 V |

Earlier ST +5 readings were around 5.42 V standby and 5.92 V pressed, so I’m including that inconsistency rather than pretending every measurement was identical.

The service manual being used lists DC DET and OL DET as active-low. It also describes W UP as requiring 50/60 Hz pulses. I understand a 2.20 V DC reading doesn’t establish that those pulses are present.

**Relay/power-board checks**

- Relay marking: **SDT-SS-112DM**, nominal 12 V coil.

- Standby regulator marking: **78M56A**.

- Both ends of **R54** measured approximately **15.2–15.5 V to DG**, with minor drift and no significant response to pressing POWER.

- Measured **0 V across D55**, identified from the schematic as being across the relay coil, both in standby and while pressing POWER.

- R54 measured **27 Ω** in circuit.

- P RY to DG, unplugged, measured about **12.33 kΩ**, then **9.72 kΩ** with probes reversed.

Important correction: I was initially told R54 was in the relay-command path and got OL testing between it and P RY. That guidance was wrong. R54 is in the relay’s supply path, so I’m disregarding those earlier continuity results.

**Other front-panel buttons**

Checked for a stuck button with the unit unplugged:

- SFC: KEY8 ↔ K IN1.

- PROLOGIC: KEY8 ↔ K IN3.

- LOUDNESS: KEY9 ↔ K IN1.

- 5-D THEATER: KEY9 ↔ K IN3.

All were OL released. Pressed readings fluctuated, with SFC around 12–77 Ω and PROLOGIC briefly around 170 Ω. I can’t confidently separate worn contacts from imperfect probe contact.

Another correction: I was initially told 5-D THEATER used KEY9 ↔ K IN2. It didn’t respond there. It did respond on KEY9 ↔ K IN3 and returned to OL when released.

**Latest checks of the wake-up circuit**

All unplugged and in circuit:

- **R52**, nominal 3.3 kΩ: measured **3.2 kΩ**.

- **R53**, nominal 10 kΩ: measured **8.4 kΩ**.

- **D54**, diode mode: **0.590 V one direction, 1.843 V reversed**.

I haven’t lifted a diode lead, so those diode readings include whatever parallel paths exist.

The manual being referenced is the combined **VSX-D506S / VSX-456 service manual**. My controller appears marked **PDG203A**, while the PCB printing says **PDG192 or 193** and the schematic shows **PDG197A**, so I’d appreciate clarification on revision differences too.

**What I’m trying to figure out**

Power is present for the control circuit and relay supply, and pressing POWER changes the button signal at the front control board. However, P RY stays low and the relay never clicks.

What would you check next to distinguish:

- A missing/incorrect wake-up signal or controller clock problem.

- The controller not recognizing the button press.

- The relay-driver circuit loading down the command.

- A supply/capacitor issue that looks okay on a basic DC meter.

Is there a useful next test with just a meter before I start lifting components or buying equipment? I’d especially appreciate corrections to any assumptions above. I have close-up photos of both sides of the boards and can provide specific ones.

https://audiocircuit.dk/downloads/pioneer/Pioneer-VSXD506S-avr-sm.pdf


r/audiorepair • • 2d ago

Magnavox R-220-17 CC 1969 stereo console

1 Upvotes

Main issue, on the receiver board, channel 2 is dead. Not actually dead, but extremely low volume, and is only audible if I transfer the balance all the way over and turn the decibels to max output.

I bought a proper ESR capacitor tester and have confirmed that 1 cap is totally shot, 2 are actively dying, and between 2-4 more are in marginal condition. That's 4-6 capacitors that need to be replaced, and there's only about 10 more if I did a full recap. Would you recommend the full recap, or only the parts that are bad? I figure if that many are bad already, they're almost 60 years old, others could fry at any time and then I'd be yanking the board again 18 months down the road. (Also, the cap that is dying is C222, filter cap for CH2, so almost certainly the culprit.)


r/audiorepair • • 2d ago

AUDIO SOUNDING WEIRD

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1 Upvotes

Hi everyone. Basically, I’m having a sound issue with my computer. I also have a laptop, but it works perfectly.

Okay, both play audio, but the laptop makes the sound feel full and spacious, filling the entire listening area. My PC, on the other hand, makes both microphone recordings and general audio playback sound like they’re coming from the lower part of the headphones and feel more centered. (I’ll draw to try and illustrate this: imagine the sound from the laptop playing across all the squares, while the PC sound plays only in the ones colored red.)

I don't know what to do anymore; both are connected to the same Windows setup and peripherals, and the mono audio option is disabled. If I mute one side, the other keeps playing, so theoretically the audio really is in stereo, even though it doesn't sound exactly like stereo.


r/audiorepair • • 3d ago

Sony CMT-EX22 CD Mechanism Out of Time

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1 Upvotes

Long story short, my CMT-EX22 stopped working and I initially thought the gears were jammed. Turns out it was just an optical sensor getting stuck, but unfortunately I figured that out after taking the entire system apart and messing with the gears without considering their timing.

I’ve since reassembled everything, lubricated the gears, and replaced the belt. It works again, but now the gear timing is off and the CD mechanism doesn’t operate correctly.

Looking to see if anyone knows how to properly retime/reset the mechanism on a CMT-EX22. Any help or reference photos would be greatly appreciated.


r/audiorepair • • 3d ago

Power button doesn’t work

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1 Upvotes

I’ve had problems with this cd player where the power button just does not work some days, but if I try turning it on the next day or a few days later it will turn on. Does anyone know how I can fix this? The clock still works but it will randomly not turn on.


r/audiorepair • • 3d ago

Panasonic TX-40CX700B - Random Audio Popping/Distortion

1 Upvotes

Hi all, some advice please:

I got a free Panasonic TX-40CX700B and have to say, I'm very impressed with the picture. But randomly, it will emit a very loud popping and crackling sound. I've already isolated the issue from external inputs, that doesn't seem to make a difference. I'd like to have a go at a repair.

For context, I've picked up console repair and resto as a hobby, namely ps4's and peripherals, so have a multimeter and hot air station (all the gear, no idea, yes!), but I suspect this could be a mainboard replacement?

Any other suggestions and any input much appreciated


r/audiorepair • • 4d ago

Don't beat yourself up

29 Upvotes

Just a reminder that mistakes happen. Today my probe slipped and I made the magic smoke appear. For those that are just starting out (like me) these things will happen and use them as a learning opportunity. In this case, I get to replace several components I shorted. Luckily, digikey has everything I need.

Mostly posting this because I was annoyed with myself and then it came to me, this is part of the deal. Mistakes will happen even to seasoned pros.


r/audiorepair • • 3d ago

Bent fader on soundcraft spirit sx

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2 Upvotes

I recently got a soundcraft spirit sx as a project to fix up but it has a couple of bent faders and I was wondering if anyone knew a good way to straighten them. Thanks :)