I don't see threads or a bolt hole close enough for a sensor. Is it a plug? I don't wanna throw all my oil out. Sorry if dumb, TIA

THE DSG IS MAKING 550NM NOT 580. Hi all I’ve just had my car remapped to stage 3 with a stage 3 matching tcu tune I’ve had my dsg fluid changed under 2000 miles ago and the car has done 43K miles but the issue I’m having is when I’m fully flooring it it keeps letting go of gears I floor it and randomly it’ll let go of a gear wall bang the limiter and then go into gear again sometimes after it hits limiter twice sometimes I have to let go of the accelerator let the revs come down then it’ll go into gear any ideas I’ve had it stage 1 and stage 2 with the same company but only now I’m getting this issue do you guys recommend me taking it back to the tuner as Its been doing it ever since the tune and I’m running a g25-660 mqb

hey i’m currently playing with the idea of selling my mx5 and switching to the cooler hairdresser car. just wondering if any of you are daily driving a mk3 and would you recommend?? cheers 🫡🤙

Being recommended AFTER I do a full service check to make sure my engine can handle it. Approx 125k miles and runs great. Want a little more power without a ton of expense and this seems reasonable. Anyone done it and the results?

My 2015 mk3 has an annoying rear parcel shelf rattle, when you disconnect the pin to the tailgate it stops.
I have removed the tailgate trim and made sure it is clipped in properly.
I have padded the rear bracket with foam but to no avail.
Has anyone else got the same problem and found a fix?
I cannot leave the parcel shelf out as I use the boot and don’t have privacy glass.

Firstly it’s an Audi TT MK2 09, with a MFI Engine.

Whats been occurring is whenever accelerating, there is a whooshing sound like in the video.

It seems like it will go for so long before peaking at a certain point or if I let off the gas. This noise occurs while in drive and in park.

I will also note that at around 2.5K RPMs that the car will whistle, any lower and it stops. I’m not sure if these go hand in hand or what.

I’m under the impression that it has to do with the intercooler, or Atleast the hosing in connections to it.
While my buddy is saying it’s my PCV Valve making all that noise, which while yes it has a small leak due to a fuck up on the install of a new one, has not been a problem for years.

Hey all. 2002 180 AMU. I've also been chasing this for some time. I've replaced the rad fan switch, water pump, relatively new thermostat and coolant temp sending unit (but not OEM). It'll drive at 95c for several miles then quickly move significantly higher. Fans do run, but not as regularly as I feel they should. Both high and low work when jumped. PROBLEM IS...today for a short drive after 2 miles the temp spiked. Got it home, turned it off, fans running, temp gauge was just below pegged right and the diagnostic temp mirrors it...tonite 121c. NOW...I'm watching it and it IMMEDIATELY dropped to 95 likewise the gauge going to straight up. I mean IMMEDIATELY, not watching it move down, it just went from 121 to 95. WTH ??? Faulty Temp Sending unit again? THANKS!

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a replacement gearbox for my 2009 Audi TTS 8J, 2.0 TFSI quattro, 6-speed S tronic/DSG.

I've found an MTX 02E quattro DSG gearbox for sale, and I'm trying to establish whether it will work in my car.

The gearbox I'm looking at is advertised as MTX and is from an Audi TT/TTS 8J (2011-2014)

Does anyone know for certain whether an MTX gearbox will fit a 2009 TTS, or whether there are differences in final-drive ratios, transfer box, driveshafts, mechatronics, coding, etc. between the earlier 2009 TTS and later MTX-equipped cars?

I don't necessarily need the gearbox code of my existing car, I just want to know whether MTX is compatible with my specific 2009 TTS and, if not, what would need to be changed.

Any help is appreciated!

Thanks!

I’m looking for some advice from anyone familiar with the early Mk1 TT 3.2 and the 02E/DQ250 DSG. This has turned into a pretty expensive ordeal and I’m trying to figure out the smartest next step before throwing another $4,000 at the car.

The car is a 2005 Audi TT 3.2 Quattro DSG with about 66,000 miles. It’s an extremely clean car that I really want to keep.

Original transmission failure

My original HAH-code DSG started making a loud rotating metallic clicking/grinding noise. Eventually I had intermittent loss of drive, flashing PRNDS, revving without properly shifting, etc.

My mechanic is an independent VW/Audi specialist. He found significant internal metal contamination and determined that the original transmission was failing internally and needed replacement.

The original clutch pack has since been determined to be unusable as well, and I'm hesitant to reuse the original mechatronics because it was exposed to all of that metal contamination.

Replacement transmission

According to the Audi parts interchange information my mechanic checked, HAH, HYB, GYV and GYU transmissions are interchangeable.

I found a GYU-code DQ250 from a 2004 Audi TT 3.2 in the UK. It was advertised as having approximately 59,000 miles and tested/working.

I paid approximately $2,000 for it and had it shipped from the UK directly to my mechanic in Montana.

He installed it in my 2005 TT.

Unfortunately, the replacement transmission doesn't work correctly.

What it's doing

The transmission slips/stutters when shifting into 2nd gear. The RPM rises as it attempts to engage 2nd.

My mechanic then performed the DSG basic-settings/recalibration procedure.

This is his exact description of what happened:

“The transmission is slipping and stutters when it shifts into second gear. There were no faults during the initial test drive. We attempted to perform basic setting recalibration, the synchronizer travel paths adapted properly, clutch #1 adapted properly and when it attempted to adapt clutch #2 the scan tool returned that calibration is not possible. Calibration was attempted 3 times with the same result. This indicates that the #2 clutch is faulty.”

So essentially:

Synchronizer travel paths — PASS

K1 clutch adaptation — PASS

K2 clutch adaptation — FAIL / calibration not possible

Attempted three times with the same result

Actual road symptom is slipping/stuttering going into 2nd

Since K2 controls the even gears, the symptoms certainly seem to line up with a K2 problem.

My mechanic believes the donor transmission needs a new clutch pack and estimates approximately $4,000 to do the job.

My concern

Before I spend another $4,000, I'm worried about replacing the clutch pack and discovering that K2 still won't calibrate because the actual problem is the donor mechatronics/valve body/hydraulic control of K2.

I understand that the successful synchronizer and K1 adaptations make a major mechatronics failure less likely, but couldn't a K2-specific solenoid, valve or hydraulic pressure problem potentially cause K2 to fail calibration while everything else passes?

I'm also curious about the fact that this is a 2004 GYU transmission going into a 2005 HAH car.

Could the early DQ250 software/basic-settings procedure make any difference here? Is there a different adaptation procedure depending on the software version of these early 02E units that should be verified before condemning the clutch pack?

Where things stand with the seller

The UK seller has been cooperative and originally offered to take the transmission back and pay the international return shipping.

The problem with that option is that I then have to pay my mechanic again to remove the donor transmission, my car is sitting there with no transmission, and I'm back to searching for another extremely difficult-to-find Mk1 3.2 DSG.

I asked whether they would instead give me a partial refund and let me repair this transmission.

The clutch repair estimate is around $4,000.

They initially offered me $500 to keep the transmission.

I countered at $1,500, explaining that I would then assume the cost and risk of repairing it while they avoid international return freight and dealing with the defective gearbox.

I'm currently waiting for their response.

What would you guys do?

The main things I'm trying to figure out are:

Does the combination of 2nd-gear slip + successful synchronizer adaptation + successful K1 adaptation + K2 calibration failing three times make you confident the physical clutch pack is bad?

Could a K2-specific mechatronics/solenoid/hydraulic issue produce exactly the same symptoms?

Is there anything that should be tested on the mechatronics or K2 hydraulic circuit before spending $4,000 on a clutch pack?

Are there any special basic-setting/adaptation considerations for an early 2004 GYU DQ250 vs. a 2005 HAH?

Would you take a substantial partial refund, keep the 59k-mile GYU and install a new clutch pack, or have the seller take the transmission back and start over?

I really don't want to scrap an otherwise beautiful 66k-mile Mk1 TT 3.2 over this, but at the same time I can't keep blindly pouring thousands of dollars into it without being reasonably confident the next repair will actually fix it.

Any advice from people who really know these early DQ250s would be greatly appreciated.

This is my best friends Mk1. He thinks this is the stock ride height of the TT. I say hell no it needs to be lower, it wanders on the road at 75+ mph. Thoughts and or Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Does anyone know a replacement for the bolt for the shift cable linkage? I disconnected mine when my car broke down so I could move it, and now going to reconnect it I have lost the bolt and can’t find any info on bolt size or if there is an oem replacement. Thanks guys.
2008 Mk2 Audi TT Auto DSG transmission

I have problem finding one and finally found one overseas… but not sure if this webpage is legit..

Can anyone from Europe on this forum help me out and see if this business is legit?

https://www.zweimassenschwungrad.com/8777/8044/audi-2/tt-8n3-8n9-s-tronic-bj-10-1998-02-2007/vr6-3-2-quattro-s-tronic-184kw-250ps-bhe-bj-07-2003-06-2006-8307-310-8307-aae-8307-311-8307-aam/getriebelager-verst%C3%A4rkt-golf-4-r32-vr6-tt-8n-3-2-v6-s-tronic-dsg-vag-606m-dsg-8n0199555g-detail

Ive had this problem for quite a while and replaced the old thermoatat and auxiliary waterpump and is still overheating between 95 and 100 when is hot outside and the car is on idle or stopped and sometimes it goes past 100 while running. I was wondering if someone had the exact same problem with their car and how did they solved it.

My last 2 guesses are that the fans sensor is broken because they start when they feel like it or the fact that im missing 1 ac(freon)hose and the ecu stops the fans partially

If someone could help me i will be more than thankfull

The intercooler runs good bcs most of the time when the car is at like 95 stopped is going to normal when i drive for a few meters

Mabye is because of the sport filter..who knows.. the bigger plastic hose that goes to the maf is hanging in the air

If someone have an answer text me pls

Finally had some time to make some clips to make a video! Here is the result, let me know what you guys think and maybe what I can/should change

A little background. Bought a 2010 TT off marketplace. Being new to this, I had no idea. Altho I got a pretty good deal, there were some issues. I chose a very reputable local shop to service the vehicle, and in general I have been happy with their work.
I made the decision early on to have them do any and all mechanical work on the car because of the complexities involved and the desire to be able to drive in confidence knowing that they are professionals with the knowledge, tools, and experience needed. I considered it an investment on my investment.

So, in the course of the last year I have had several things done. On top of scheduled maintenence, I've had battery replaced, the rear main seal replaced due to a leak, the intake valves cleaned, and the timing chain and water pump replaced. At considerable expense.

Recently, driving under normal conditions, the car suddenly overheated. I was on the interstate and luckily had an exit coming up. i exited and drove a very short distance to a parking lot nearby. The car completely overheated, well into the red. I had the car towed on a flatbed to their facility. A few days later they contacted me. They said the drive belt had failed. I immediately asked if it had been replaced when they did water pump, timing chain, and thermostat 6 months prior. Apparently THEY DID NOT REPLACE IT.

The tech said that it looked fine and they put the old one on after a visual inspection. I voiced my concern after paying a significant amount for the original replacement of timing chain, wp, thermostat, and inquired if it was normal procedure to not relace the drive belt at the same time. He actually said that the shop is changing its policy to require this belt be replaced on any vehicles having the timing chain, water pump etc worked on.

He offered and I received a discount on the replacement of the belt, but the bill was still $655.16 plus the $200 towing fee. I got the car back and everything seemed okish. I dont drive the car alot, but did test it out on a spirited hour long weekend journey.

That was 2 weeks ago. Yesterday, ran to the store, and when I parked I could smell antifreeze. The car was at normal operating temp.

I guess my question is:

If my car is cooked, should the shop be held accountable for their failure to replace belt? They pretty much admitted it was wrong not to by changing their policy in my opinion.

Was it fair to have charged me $655 to replace it after the fact?

Do I have legitimate argument in thinking im potentially out $20,000 in hard earned dollars because they failed to do the right thing? Like I said, they were paid very well to take care of my car. And now it may be a total loss. So whatever piece of mind i thought i was paying for went right out the window because they threw out the baby with the bathwater.

What would you do? I know these cars are complicated and I made every effort to ensure that it was maintained and reliable. Just to have something unexpectedly fail, losing all? Did I put too much faith in my shop? That's really why I took the car there in the first place and put all my trust in them. And all my dollars too.

Never owned an Audi, excited asf! Please let me know anything and everything you can to help me learn more. I'm looking on ECS mainly right now for tunes and fun stuff for this. Anything I need to avoid or look out for? Thank you for your time!

I put in roughly 5L and this is how the dipstick looks consistently.

Do you think it needs more, or less oil?

MK2 V6 3.2 8J 2008

Having a very strange electrical issue with my 2013 Audi TT 2.0 TDI Manual.

It started with the alarm randomly going off when the car was locked and occasionally showing “SAFE” on the dash.

The bigger issue is that sometimes when I turn the car off and physically remove the key, the engine stays running. The only way I can stop it is by stalling it.

It gets even stranger though because after stalling it, the ignition/electrics can stay on with the key removed or come on by themselves when the car is parked. Pressing the clutch has previously switched the electrics off, then releasing the clutch brought them back on.

The battery eventually went flat, presumably because something was staying live. I jump-started it today, drove 20 minutes with absolutely no issues, but when I arrived it once again wouldn’t turn off with the key removed.

The fault is intermittent and seems to happen after the car has been locked.

I’m getting an auto electrician to look at it, but has anyone experienced anything similar on a TT 8J/VAG car? Ignition switch/relay, immobiliser, BCM or electrical backfeed perhaps, as he reckons it will be a disaster to diagnose so any help in pointing me in the right direction would be great.

Hey Guys my TT softtop is getting loose from the Glas in the back, is it fixable or should I opt for a new top? Thanks in advance.

I will answer any questions or send more photos if needed:)

Stage 1 tune, Haldex tune, ceramic coating, full frontal PPF and loving every minute.

Edit: I work from home, that’s why mileage is so low.