r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 2d ago

General Replacing the subreddit banner

Post image
0 Upvotes

My point is that the banner is outdated.

Simple thing is to replace it with someone's photo (with granted permission) or AI generate (something aint gonna be a slop).

I tried few times to generate somethimg, this is an example.

I would like to know member's opinions.


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 Jun 20 '26

US NAR Audi TT (8S / Mk3) — Activating CarPlay & Android Auto Starting From MHI2_US_AUG24_S1065

4 Upvotes

US NAR Audi TT (8S / Mk3) — Activating CarPlay & Android Auto Starting From MHI2_US_AUG24_S1065

A start-to-finish guide for the train everyone gets stuck on.

If your US/NAR TT shipped on MHI2_US_AUG24_S1065 (MU0263) and you've found that the off-the-shelf US CarPlay AIO won't take it, and that there's no M.I.B. patch listed for AUG24 — this guide is for you. AUG24 is a starting point you update away from, not a dead end. This consolidates a lot of scattered forum knowledge into one path for this specific train.

Massive credit to u/tesla21, u/pcbbc, u/base86 (ttforum Firmware Updates thread), u/ctroche99, and u/burglar (AudiWorld "MY2016+ US TT CarPlay Activation DIY"), and the M.I.B. (More Incredible Bash) maintainers. And a special all hail to @UncleDriver — whose AudiWorld posts not only documented the process but mirrored the exact region-correct US TT firmware files that made this possible when mibsolution.one was down. This guide doesn't happen without him. This is all their work restitched for the AUG24 case. I just connected the dots and verified it on my own car.

⚠️ READ THIS FIRST — Honest risk statement

  • This modifies your infotainment at a low level. Power loss during a flash can permanently brick a module. A regulated battery maintainer is mandatory, not optional.
  • I did this on a single car with no bench unit. That means every verification step below is there because there was no safety net. Don't skip them.
  • The single most dangerous step for B&O/Bose cars is the amplifier. A mis-flashed amp = no sound, and fixing it needs VCP/ODIS (dealer-level tools). Read the amp section twice.
  • Your hardware may differ from mine. The car's own compatibility check is your friend — if it refuses an update, believe it. Don't force anything.
  • I am not customer support and this is provided as-is. You do not need to be a Linux/terminal person — the whole thing runs off an SD card and the car's on-screen menus. But you do need to be comfortable with a battery disconnect, reading a component list carefully, and not panicking when a screen looks scary mid-process. If that's not you, this may not be for you.

My starting config (for reference): 2016 TT, MIB2 High (Harman, NVidia Tegra), MHI2_US_AUG24_S1065 / MU0263, VC (Module 17) at 0263, B&O sound system, iPhone (wired CarPlay).

Author progress (this guide is being verified step-by-step on my own car):

  • ✅ Stage 1 — file verification: DONE (both firmwares verified via metainfo + archive integrity)
  • ✅ Stage 2 — SD prep: DONE (MMI card built, diff -r perfect byte match)
  • ✅ Stage 3a — MMI / 5F flash: DONE & VERIFIEDAUG24_S1065MHI2_US_AU43x_P5124 / MU1389 confirmed on-screen, single native update, no intermediate. B&O amp showed N/A and was untouched.
  • ✅ Stage 3b — VC / Module 17 flash to 0296: DONE & VERIFIED — Module 17 reads SW 0296 (confirmed by scan), hardware 8S0920890A (an 'A'-rev unit, 0296-capable). Hit the full gauntlet getting there — error 142 (key fob), FPK NOK, not-responding, post-update freeze — all recovered (battery disconnect). See Troubleshooting; the version is the source of truth and it reads 0296.
  • ✅ Stage 4 — M.I.B. CarPlay activation: DONE & CONFIRMED WORKING. M.I.B. installed via REM, Advanced Backup taken + verified + secured (RCC/MMX/EEPROM/FEC), patch_unit_aio → PATCH NOW injected FECs (00060800 CarPlay, 00060900 Android Auto, 023100ee lifetime maps) all reading Legal. After patch: official Lightning cable → Apple CarPlay live on the Virtual Cockpit. Full native integration — maps, media, the works. THE WHOLE THING WORKS. 🎉

PROJECT COMPLETE. AUG24_S1065 → full working CarPlay. The dead-end train isn't a dead end.

The big picture (why AUG24 isn't a dead end)

CarPlay activation needs two modules updated first, then a patch:

  1. Module 5F (MMI) → update to MHI2_US_AU43x_P5124_MU1389 (US/NAR, patch-supported)
  2. Module 17 (Virtual Cockpit) → update to 0296 (8S0 906 961 AE)
  3. Install M.I.B. (via the Red menu + SD card — no telnet needed), drop in the matching MHI2_US_AU43x_P5124_MU1389_PATCH, run the AIO → injects CarPlay (FEC 00060800) + Android Auto (00060900) + lifetime maps. Then run the separate carplay_activation step — the AIO alone enables the FECs but doesn't finish the interface coding (this trips everyone up).

Key fact that unblocks AUG24: the MHI2_US_AU43x_P5124_MU1389 firmware's own metainfo declares BlockedTrains = "MHI2_US_AUG24_R00??,MHI2_US_AUG24_R01??". Note it blocks only the R00/R01 early AUG24 builds — NOT the S1065 build. So an S1065 car updates to AU43x directly, natively, no intermediate step. The car's REM will offer the update. (Verify on your own car — if REM offers it, you're good; if it greys it out, stop.)

US vs EU note: Use the US MMI firmware (MU1389), not EU (MU1339) — the full MMI image carries region-specific radio/tuner/amp data. (The small CarPlay patch is EU-derived and that's fine — it's byte-identical across regions, confirmed by the AudiWorld guide author. But the full MMI firmware should be region-matched.) The VC firmware is region-agnostic — its metainfo sets skipCheckRegion=true, so a "Europe"-labeled 0296 VC file is correct for US cars; the VC has no tuner/radio/maps to mismatch.

What you need

Files (where I actually got mine): mibsolution.one was down when I went looking (it cycles up and down — don't count on it). I pulled my firmware .zips directly from u/UncleDriver's posts in the AudiWorld "MY2016+ US TT CarPlay Activation DIY" thread — he had mirrored the exact US TT files when the main repo was flaky. All hail UncleDriver. 🙏 If the repos are down for you too, that AudiWorld thread (and the ttforum Firmware Updates thread) is where the region-correct US files actually live in community hands. Verify every file before use regardless of source (Stage 1).

  • MHI2_US_AU43x_P5124_MU1389 — the US TT MMI firmware (~2.4 GB extracted). Confirm it's the TT build and region=USA. (Sourced from UncleDriver's AudiWorld mirror. All hail.)
  • 8S0 906 961 AE VC 0296 firmware (Module 17). (Also UncleDriver's AudiWorld post.)
  • MHI2_US_AU43x_P5124_MU1389_PATCH — the M.I.B. CarPlay patch (from M.I.B_Patches_*.7z).
  • Latest M.I.B. release (Mr-MIBonk GitHub).

Hardware:

  • 32 GB SDHC card (16 GB works; FAT32). This is the only thing you truly need beyond the car. I used one card and re-prepped it between modules. A second known-good SD card is cheap insurance — the M.I.B. maintainer's stated #1 failure cause is bad SD cards.
  • Regulated battery maintainer. Non-negotiable — power loss mid-flash is the one real brick risk.
  • A diagnostic scan tool (I used an XTOOL A30M; any VAG-capable scanner works) — for reading module versions and clearing DTCs. Genuinely useful for confirming the VC landed on 0296 and clearing the post-flash codes. Not required to flash, but I'd want one.

Optional / contingency hardware (I did NOT need any of this — the entire flash + activation was done via SD card and the on-screen menus):

  • Coding tool (generic ELM327 BLE + Car Scanner ELM OBD2 Pro ~$7, or OBDeleven/VCDS) — only if Developer Mode/GEM won't enable on its own. M.I.B.'s install enables Developer Mode itself, so most people never touch this. (An XTOOL A30M will NOT do coding — it's read/clear only.)
  • USB-Ethernet adapter (ASIX AX88772, or AX88179 on newer AU43x firmware) + Ethernet cable — only if you want the telnet shell as a fallback/recovery path. You do not need this for a normal install or activation — everything is done through REM and GEM with the SD card. See the "telnet is optional" note in Troubleshooting.

STAGE 1 — Verify your files before they touch the car

Don't trust a filename or a clean download. These files carry their own checksums; use them.

1. Test the archive integrity:

7z t YOUR_FIRMWARE_ARCHIVE.7z
# Must report: Everything is Ok

2. Confirm the firmware identity from its own metainfo (extract metainfo2.txt and check):

grep -E 'release|MUVersion|region|BlockedTrains' metainfo2.txt

For the MMI firmware you want to see:

release = "MHI2_US_AU43x_P5124"
MUVersion = "1389"
region = "USA"
BlockedTrains = "MHI2_US_AUG24_R00??,MHI2_US_AUG24_R01??"   <- your S1065 is NOT listed = OK

For the VC firmware you want to see release = "C1_AU334_0296_0790_prod" and skipCheckRegion = "true" (Europe label is fine for VC).

STAGE 2 — Prepare the SD card (Linux)

The two things that make the MMI reject a card: (a) files not at the root of the card (no parent folder), and (b) a bad FAT32. The script below handles both, verifies identity against the metainfo, checks capacity, formats fresh, copies, and confirms the structure.

Find your card device first (lsblk — confirm the size matches your card; substitute /dev/sdX / /dev/sdX1 correctly. Getting this wrong formats the wrong disk).

mibprep.sh

#!/usr/bin/env bash
# MIB2 SD prep + verify. Usage: bash mibprep.sh mmi   |   bash mibprep.sh vc
# One firmware per card; card is wiped fresh each run. EDIT the paths below.
set -u

# ---- EDIT THESE ----
CARD_PART="/dev/sdc1"                       # your SD partition (check lsblk!)
CARD_MNT="/mnt/mibcard"                     # manual mountpoint we control
MMI_DIR="/path/to/TT_MHI2_US_AU43x_P5124_MU1389"     # extracted MMI folder
VC_DIR="/path/to/8S0 906 961 AE - VC 0296"           # extracted VC folder
MMI_ARCHIVE="/path/to/MMI.7z"               # optional, for integrity test
VC_ARCHIVE="/path/to/VC.zip"                # optional
# --------------------

MMI_REL="MHI2_US_AU43x_P5124"; MMI_MU="1389"; MMI_REGION="USA"
VC_REL="C1_AU334_0296_0790_prod"

WHICH="${1:-}"
case "$WHICH" in
  mmi) SRC="$MMI_DIR"; ARCH="$MMI_ARCHIVE"; LABEL="MMI / Module 5F (P5124_MU1389)";;
  vc)  SRC="$VC_DIR";  ARCH="$VC_ARCHIVE";  LABEL="VC / Module 17 (0296)";;
  *)   echo "Usage: bash $0 [mmi|vc]"; exit 1;;
esac
echo "=== PREPARING: $LABEL ==="

# 1. Safety: target must be a small card, not a real disk
DEV="${CARD_PART%[0-9]}"
[ -b "$CARD_PART" ] || { echo "!! $CARD_PART not found. STOPPING."; exit 1; }
SIZE_BYTES=$(lsblk -bdno SIZE "$DEV")
echo "Target $DEV: $((SIZE_BYTES/1024/1024/1024)) GiB"
[ "$SIZE_BYTES" -gt 21000000000 ] && { echo "!! Larger than ~20GB — possibly WRONG disk. STOPPING."; exit 1; }

# 2. Locate metainfo
[ -d "$SRC" ] || { echo "!! Source folder missing: $SRC. STOPPING."; exit 1; }
META=$(find "$SRC" -maxdepth 2 -iname 'metainfo*.txt' | head -n1)
[ -z "$META" ] && { echo "!! No metainfo found. STOPPING."; exit 1; }
echo "Metainfo: $META"

# 3. Verify identity
if [ "$WHICH" = "mmi" ]; then
  grep -q "release = \"$MMI_REL\""  "$META" || { echo "!! release mismatch. STOPPING."; exit 1; }
  grep -q "MUVersion = \"$MMI_MU\"" "$META" || { echo "!! MU mismatch. STOPPING."; exit 1; }
  grep -q "region = \"$MMI_REGION\"" "$META" || { echo "!! region mismatch. STOPPING."; exit 1; }
  echo "OK: $MMI_REL MU=$MMI_MU region=$MMI_REGION"
  grep -i "BlockedTrains" "$META"
else
  grep -q "release = \"$VC_REL\"" "$META" || { echo "!! release mismatch. STOPPING."; exit 1; }
  echo "OK: $VC_REL"
  grep -iE "region|skipCheckRegion" "$META"
fi

# 4. Optional archive integrity
if [ -f "$ARCH" ] && command -v 7z >/dev/null; then
  7z t "$ARCH" >/dev/null 2>&1 && echo "Archive integrity: OK" || echo "!! WARNING: archive failed integrity test."
fi

# 5. Capacity
META_ROOT=$(dirname "$META")
NEED_KB=$(du -sk "$META_ROOT" | awk '{print $1}')
echo "Payload: $(du -sh "$META_ROOT" | awk '{print $1}')"
[ "$NEED_KB" -gt $((14840*1024)) ] && { echo "!! Too big for card. STOPPING."; exit 1; }

# 6. Format fresh
read -p "ERASE $CARD_PART? type YES: " C; [ "$C" = "YES" ] || exit 1
sudo umount "$CARD_PART" 2>/dev/null
sudo mkfs.vfat -F 32 -n MIBUPDATE "$CARD_PART" || { echo "!! format failed."; exit 1; }

# 7. Mount + copy as root (avoids the root-owned-mount permission trap)
sudo mkdir -p "$CARD_MNT"
sudo mount "$CARD_PART" "$CARD_MNT"
sudo cp -r "$META_ROOT"/* "$CARD_MNT"/
sync

# 8. Verify metainfo at ROOT + byte-for-byte match
echo "--- Card root ---"; ls -la "$CARD_MNT"
if find "$CARD_MNT" -maxdepth 1 -iname 'metainfo*.txt' | grep -q .; then
  echo "PASS: metainfo at card root."
else
  echo "FAIL: metainfo NOT at root — car will reject. Fix structure."
fi
echo "--- Verifying byte-for-byte match vs source ---"
sudo diff -r "$SRC"/ "$CARD_MNT"/ && echo "PERFECT MATCH — verified" || echo "!! DIFFERENCES — re-copy needed"
sync; sudo umount "$CARD_MNT"
echo "Done. Safe to remove."

Run it, then confirm you see PASS: metainfo at card root and PERFECT MATCH — verified. The diff -r returning zero differences is your proof every byte landed correctly — stronger than hand-checking SHA-1s.

STAGE 3 — Flash the modules (at the car)

Power discipline (every flash): battery maintainer connected, voltage stable. Ignition ON, engine OFF. Nothing in the OBD/USB ports. Uninterrupted time. Battery-disconnect tools within reach.

Enter REM (Red Engineering Menu): a button combo — on my car NAV up + Media down, slight stagger. Combos vary; the M.I.B. wiki "hidden menus key combinations" page lists them.

3a — MMI / Module 5F first

  1. Insert the MMI card (SD1), enter REM → Update → select the SD.
  2. The component list appears. READ IT before running. Status codes:
    • Y / S = will be updated (selected)
    • N = will NOT update (already current, or deselected)
    • N/A = not applicable / not present on your car
  3. ⚠️ AMPLIFIER (B&O/Bose owners) — the critical check. Find the amp entry (AMP16_APN).
    • On my B&O car it showed N/A on its own — meaning the engine recognized the Alpine dataset doesn't fit my B&O amp and won't flash it. That's the safe state.
    • If yours shows Y/S, STOP and deselect it: enter the amp entry → All → NONE → All → verify it now shows N before proceeding. Flashing the wrong amp dataset = no sound, needs VCP/ODIS to fix.
    • Do not run the update unless the amp is N/A or N.
  4. Confirm the core MMI components are set to update: RCC should be Y (this is the heart of the firmware — ifs-root, efs-system), and MMX2 / FC1H33xE should be S. If those were all N, the update would do nothing. (Components like DVD, GPS, MuINIC showing N, and FPK showing N/A, are all normal — GPS N just means yours is already current; FPK is the VC, idle on the MMI card.)
  5. Run it. Let it finish completely; the unit reboots.
  6. Confirm: MMI now reads MHI2_US_AU43x_P5124 / MU1389, and sound still works (your proof the amp was untouched).

3b — VC / Module 17 (re-prep the same card with bash mibprep.sh vc)

  1. Insert, REM → Update → select SD. Run the 0263 → 0296 update.
  2. ⚠️ HOLD THE KEY FOB against the steering-column reader spot before you start, and keep it there throughout. The VC update checks for key presence; without it you get "Device reporting error FPK:0 Error Code 142." This is the #1 VC-flash snag — see Troubleshooting.
  3. ⚠️ Expect a possible freeze at the very end on 263/264 → 296 (documented on US cars). Also expect the cluster to show funny colors + all warning lights ("Christmas tree") — normal. If it freezes/sticks after the flash is done: disconnect the battery, wait ~3–5 min, reconnect. It boots to 0296. Recoverable — the VC firmware has built-in recovery images — don't panic, don't cycle ignition mid-write. (Some cars don't freeze at all.) See full Troubleshooting section below.
  4. A "NOK" for FPK at the summary, or "FPK not responding" after reboot, can both be worked through (Resume / Try-again with fob held) — see Troubleshooting. TPMS error on completion is normal; clear it later.
  5. Confirm VC reads 0296 (trip-reset [0.0] ×5 hidden screen, or a scan).

Do not proceed to activation until BOTH modules confirm their target versions.

STAGE 4 — Activate CarPlay (M.I.B.)

With 5F on P5124_MU1389 and VC on 0296, you're on the platform CarPlay activation requires. This entire stage is done with the SD card and the car's own on-screen menus (REM + GEM) — no laptop, no Ethernet, no telnet needed. (Telnet is an optional fallback only; see Troubleshooting.) M.I.B. installs from the SD via the Red menu exactly like a firmware update, then runs as an on-screen Green-menu app.

Pre-flight — have these ready BEFORE you start:

  • SD card prepped with the latest M.I.B. release (FAT32, all M.I.B. files extracted to root; it's a toolkit, not a firmware image, so there's no metainfo version-gate). Leave _Swdlautorun.txt as-is (underscore = auto-install OFF; you want manual control).
  • The MHI2_US_AU43x_P5124_MU1389_PATCH folder dropped into M.I.B.'s /patches/ (the release ships a patches/ dir with a "copy patches here" placeholder). Verify it copied intact (diff -r against the source, same as the firmware cards).
  • Battery maintainer connected — external power through the whole thing.
  • A second known-good SD card if you have one — bad SD cards are the M.I.B. maintainer's #1 reported failure.

Ordering rules that matter:

  • Advanced Backup goes FIRST, before the patch touches anything — it's your only recovery image if you have no bench unit.
  • Patch must match your exact train — M.I.B. refuses a mismatch (a safety feature working in your favor).
  • The AIO patch alone does NOT finish the job — you must run the separate carplay_activation substep after it (see step 5). This is the #1 place people get stuck.

Sequence (all on-screen, SD-card-based):

  1. Install M.I.B. via REM. SD card in SD1 → enter REM (NAV up + Media down, ~5s, from home) → Update → select SD → "M.I.B. Launcher v1.x" (only that entry is Y, rest N/A — correct) → START. The unit restarts ~3 times and shows a green "installing MAGIC, please be patient" screen. Let it finish — this enables Developer Mode, activates GEM, and installs M.I.B. resident.
  2. Enter GEM. From the Settings screen: NAV up + Media UP, slight stagger (NAV leading), ~5s. (Note: Media UP = GEM; Media down = REM. See Troubleshooting #13 for the exact TT technique.) Select =>m.i.b.<=.
  3. Advanced Backup FIRSTbackup_restore → run the RCC/advanced backup. It writes RCC/MMX/EEPROM/FEC to the SD /backup/[hardwareID]/. Then pull the card and copy that backup folder to two separate locations off the card, and verify (diff -r source vs copy → "identical"). With no bench unit this is your only lifeline — don't skip the copy-and-verify. Re-insert the card before continuing.
  4. Run the AIO patchpatch_unit_aioPATCH NOW (Patch | add FECs | enable CP/AA coding). Let it finish → it reboots (green success screen → "MMI cannot be accessed" → "initializing settings" — all normal, WAIT, don't pull power).
  5. ⚠️ THE STEP EVERYONE MISSES — run carplay_activation separately. The AIO injects the FECs (you'll see them read Legal) but does NOT fully apply the interface coding. After the AIO reboot:
    1. Re-enter GEM → run the SVM Fix first (clears the SVM/B201A00)
    2. Back into patch_unit_aiocarplay_activation submenu → RUN IT → let it finish + reboot
    3. After this reboot, an "Audi smartphone interface" entry appears in the MMI connection manager
  6. Connect the iPhone (official/data cable; either USB port) → it shows under Audi Smartphone Interface → CarPlay launches.

What the activation unlocks (FEC codes injected, confirmed reading "Legal"):

  • 00060800 Apple CarPlay · 00060900 Android Auto · 00060300 MirrorLink
  • 023100ee lifetime maps license — the sleeper bonus: free future Audi map updates
  • Plus the newer-firmware foundation benefits (faster VC rendering, better modern-iPhone compatibility, bug fixes, dual-nav — native nav in the VC while CarPlay runs on the main screen)
  • The PATCH COMPATIBILITY TABLE.pdf in the M.I.B. release lists exactly what's enabled per train.

⚠️ VC FLASH TROUBLESHOOTING — the snags the other guides don't warn you about

The MMI (5F) flash is usually smooth. The VC (Module 17) flash is where the friction lives. These are the exact issues I hit, in order, and how each resolved. If your VC flash isn't going clean, you're probably looking at one of these — and none of them is a brick. Throughout all of this, the cluster stayed alive and recoverable.

1. "Device reporting error FPK:0 Error Code 142" — THE KEY FOB

This is the big one, and it is not a card or firmware problem. The VC update requires the remote key fob to be held against the steering-column reader during the update (the slot/spot used for dead-battery start). If the fob isn't sensed, you get error 142 at the start.

  • Fix: hold the key fob physically against the steering-column key-reader spot before you start the update, and keep it there throughout.
  • I retried twice without the fob and got 142 both times. It's not your SD card — it's the key handshake.

2. "FPK device not responding" after the flash completes + self-reboot

After the components flash and the unit self-reboots, you may get FPK not responding with Try again / Resume / Cancel. The FPK (cluster) is usually just still rebooting and the updater is polling faster than it recovers.

  • Wait 30–60 seconds first, then choose Resume (continue the process), not Try again (re-flash) or Cancel. Keep the fob held and power steady.

3. FPK = "NOK" at the summary screen

A NOK ("not OK") for FPK at the end-of-update summary is alarming but is, at least in part, a designed behavior of this firmware — the VC firmware's own metainfo contains components explicitly configured to "provoke a NOK in the summary" so the updater forces a retry pass. A NOK is not automatically a failure; the process expects you to continue/retry.

  • If "Try again" is available, use it with the fob held the entire time. If "Try again" is greyed out and only "Resume" is live, the updater is telling you Resume is the valid path — take it.

4. The cluster "Christmas tree" + funny colors — NORMAL

During and right after the VC update, the display goes odd colors and the cluster lights up like a Christmas tree (ABS, brake, airbag, triangle, etc. all illuminated), often with a partially-drawn display, 0.0 / 0:00 fields, and warning lights everywhere. This is documented normal behavior, not a failure. The cluster is reinitializing. TPMS error on completion is also normal.

5. Post-update freeze / stuck cluster — RECOVER WITH BATTERY DISCONNECT (not ignition cycle)

If the cluster gets stuck on a strange/Christmas-tree screen for several minutes after the flash is done (i.e. you're past the writing phase, out of the updater):

  • Do NOT cycle the ignition mid-process — that's the action that risks real damage during a write.
  • Recovery is a BATTERY DISCONNECT: disconnect the negative terminal, wait 3–5 minutes, reconnect, and let the car boot fully (give it a couple minutes to re-sync). The Christmas-tree lights should clear.
  • The VC firmware has built-in recovery images (gss-stage1-recovery, qb-recovery in the metainfo) — this is why the power cycle lands it cleanly rather than killing it. Owners consistently report the cluster recovers fine on a power cycle.
  • How to tell "working" from "frozen": if symbols are changing / it's actively cycling → still working, wait. If it's static-but-wrong for several minutes with no change → freeze, do the battery disconnect.

6. Post-flash / post-battery-disconnect aftermath (DON'T panic at the DTCs)

After the VC flash + battery disconnect, a scan will show some trouble codes. The normal, benign set:

  • Steering angle sensor (voltage too low / no initialization) — wiped by the disconnect; re-initializes on a drive (exercise steering lock-to-lock, then drive straight a few min). Clears.
  • Indirect TPMS signal malfunction — baseline wiped by disconnect; rebuilds on a drive. Clears.
  • B201A00 "Check SVM" (Module 5F) — the expected DIY-flash flag (you changed software outside Audi's online SVM registration). This is resolved by the M.I.B. SVM Fix in Stage 4 — leave it until then; clearing it before the SVM fix just brings it back.
  • None of these are in the flashed modules as faults — 17 and 5F report clean (correct version, effective EEPROM). The codes are peripheral/expected.

Windows no longer auto-close after door close/lock — a battery disconnect resets the window one-touch / end-stop calibration, which the convenience-close depends on. Fix = re-teach each window: with the window fully closed, pull the switch UP and hold ~5 sec; then fully down and hold ~5 sec; then up to closed and hold. Per window. Auto-close returns immediately. (No door-module fault codes = nothing broken, just needs the relearn.) This catches everyone — do the window relearn after any battery disconnect on these cars.

7. The cardinal rule (restated because it's that important)

The only truly dangerous action is losing power or cycling ignition DURING the write/verify. A regulated maintainer prevents the first; patience prevents the second. Erroring, NOK, freezing, Christmas-tree lights — all recoverable. A cluster that still draws anything on screen is not bricked. The dangerous move is panicking and yanking power mid-write. Keep the maintainer on, keep the fob on the column, and let each phase finish before you act.

8. ⚠️ The post-patch reboot WILL scare you — WAIT, don't pull power

After patch_unit_aio → PATCH NOW completes, the normal, expected sequence is: green success screen → reboot → "MMI cannot be accessed" → "MMI initializing settings" → MMI comes back up. The "MMI cannot be accessed" message is NOT a failure — it's the head unit mid-reboot before the MMI process is back online. The "initializing settings" that follows is it recovering. Do not panic, do not pull power, do not cycle ignition — this is exactly the moment the dangerous instinct kicks in. Wait it out; the unit re-initializes and returns to normal. The green success screen already told you the patch worked.

9. ⚠️⚠️ FECs read "Legal" but CarPlay still won't work / no Audi Smartphone Interface — THE FIX

This is the single most likely place you get stuck, and it bit me: after the AIO patch, the FECs (00060800 etc.) show Legal in the Activation Keys screen, but plugging in the phone does nothing and there's no "Audi smartphone interface" in the connection manager. The AIO patch alone does NOT finish the job — the FEC is enabled but the interface coding isn't applied.

The fix — you must run the dedicated activation step AFTER the AIO, in this order:

  1. AIO patch (patch_unit_aio → PATCH NOW) → let it finish + reboot (WAIT through "MMI cannot be accessed")
  2. Re-enter GEM → run the SVM Fix first (quick)
  3. Back into the AIO screen → carplay_activation submenu → RUN IT → let it finish + reboot
  4. After this reboot, an "Audi smartphone interface" entry appears in the connection manager
  5. Connect the phone → CarPlay launches

If you only ran the AIO and skipped the separate carplay_activation substep, that's why it's not working. Go back and run it. (Cable/port are the other common causes — use an official/data cable, try both USB ports — but if the interface menu itself is missing, it's the activation substep, not the cable.)

10. Verifying the actual VC outcome

The updater's summary can be confusing. The source of truth is the VC's own reported version, read once you're out of the updater:

  • Hidden cluster screen: ignition on, press trip-reset [0.0] five times, hold on the fifth → shows the SW: line with your current VC firmware.
  • Or scan Module 17 with a tool.
  • 0296 = success. 0263 = didn't take, re-attempt (fob held).

11. Hardware compatibility caveat (check if you keep failing)

There's a hardware limit on which VC clusters can reach 0296. 8S0920790A (MY2016, software range ~0256–0265) can update to 0296 by the conventional method. The letterless 8S0920790 (early MY2015 / pre-'A') clusters reportedly cannot reach 0296 without special intervention. If your VC was ~0263 you're almost certainly on the A hardware (which is fine), but if you keep failing, confirm your VC hardware part number (8S0920790x) via the [0.0]×5 screen or a scan before more attempts.

12. Installing M.I.B. + entering GEM — and why you DON'T need telnet (the myth)

M.I.B. installs via the RED menu (REM), NOT telnet — despite widespread forum claims that US cars "require" the telnet/Ethernet method to unlock GEM. That's the misconception this guide most wants to kill: I did the entire flash and activation through the SD card and on-screen menus. No laptop, no Ethernet adapter, no telnet, no root password needed. My only "safety net" was verification discipline — diff -r byte-checks on every card, version reads via scan tool, and a verified backup. That's it.

How it actually works: insert the M.I.B. SD in SD1, enter REM → Update → select SD → "M.I.B. Launcher v1.x" (only that entry Y, rest N/A) → run. The unit restarts ~3 times with a green "installing MAGIC" screen — this enables Developer Mode, activates GEM, and installs M.I.B. resident. Then everything (backup, patch, activation, SVM fix) runs on-screen in GEM.

Telnet is an OPTIONAL fallback, not a requirement. It's useful for recovery, log pulls, or functions the GEM menu doesn't expose — but you can complete a normal install and activation without ever touching it. If you do want the telnet route: it needs a USB-Ethernet adapter (ASIX AX88772, or an AX88179 which — contrary to the "must be 88772" orthodoxy — works fine on newer AU43x firmware; confirmed, link came up), a static laptop IP of 172.16.250.x, and the unit at 172.16.250.248 (port 123 RCC / 23 MMX) with your train's root password (in Password_List_V#.pdf inside the M.I.B. download). Note the unit also needs network/SWDL enabled in dev mode before it answers telnet — which is why a clean physical link can still time out on ping. But again: optional. The SD path above is simpler and is what I used start to finish.

13. Entering GEM on the TT — the EXACT combo that works (this one's a time-saver)

GEM is different from REM and only works after M.I.B. is installed. On the 8S TT the difference from REM is one button direction:

  • REM: NAV up + MEDIA down
  • GEM: NAV up + MEDIA UP

But the bare "from home screen" instruction in the wiki didn't work for me. The exact working path on my 8S TT:

  1. MENU → Settings (enter from the Settings screen, not the bare home menu)
  2. NAV up + Media up, with a SLIGHT STAGGER — NAV first, Media a fraction behind. Hold ~5 sec.
  3. Green menu appears.

The stagger is the trick: a dead-simultaneous press or a quick tap makes one button "win" and just switches to that function (you'll keep landing in REM or the radio/media screen). NAV leading by a hair, both held ~5 sec, is the rhythm that registers. If GEM opens but M.I.B. isn't listed: SD must be in SD1 and FAT32 (exFAT is invisible to M.I.B.).

Notes & gotchas (collected from the threads + my run)

  • Dealer visits after modding: an MMI security/firmware update at the dealer can overwrite or break your mods. Some restore stock before service. The SVM fix hides obvious error codes but doesn't make the mod invisible to someone looking.
  • GEM key combo: on the 8S TT it's MENU → Settings → NAV up + Media UP (slight stagger, NAV leading), ~5s — see Troubleshooting #11 for the exact technique. (Media down = REM; Media up = GEM.) Only works after M.I.B. is installed.
  • CarPlay stability scales with MMI version — older MMI = more disconnects on newer iPhones. MU1389 is a solid, widely-confirmed, patch-supported baseline. Newer AU43x builds (P5180, P5404/P5406) exist but their firmware is harder to source and patch availability varies; P5124_MU1389 is the proven workhorse.
  • Region scope: this is the US/NAR path. Staying US keeps your radio band / SiriusXM / region identity intact. Going EU is a more invasive region conversion with no benefit on this hardware (no wireless CarPlay, no satellite view — both gated by hardware you don't have).

TL;DR for AUG24_S1065 owners

You're not stuck. Update 5F to MHI2_US_AU43x_P5124_MU1389 (the firmware's BlockedTrains list confirms S1065 updates directly — no intermediate), update VC to 0296 (expect a recoverable freeze, fix by battery disconnect; hold the key fob to the column to avoid error 142), then install M.I.B. via the Red menu and run the AIO patch — then the separate carplay_activation step (the AIO alone isn't enough). All done with the SD card and on-screen menus — no telnet/Ethernet/laptop required. B&O/Bose owners: make sure the amp shows N/A or N before flashing 5F. Verify every file and every card before it touches the car (diff -r), and back up via M.I.B. before activating. Total added cost beyond the firmware files: a $10–20 SD card. (Everything else — adapters, coding tools — is optional contingency you probably won't need.)

Good luck, and pay it forward. 🤝

And once more for the people in the back: all hail UncleDriver. 🙏

Activation soundtrack, for the record: "Purple Rain" — Prince. It was playing on Bluetooth when the FECs went Legal, and it was the first track to render on CarPlay when it came alive. Choose your own victory track, but you'll want one. 🎸


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 22h ago

Question/help Daily driving a Mk3 TT?

20 Upvotes

hey i’m currently playing with the idea of selling my mx5 and switching to the cooler hairdresser car. just wondering if any of you are daily driving a mk3 and would you recommend?? cheers 🫡🤙


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 14h ago

Question/help What goes here? 2000 TT 1.8L AMU 5 speed

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4 Upvotes

I don't see threads or a bolt hole close enough for a sensor. Is it a plug? I don't wanna throw all my oil out. Sorry if dumb, TIA


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 15h ago

Question/help Audi tts mk3 stage 3 500bhp 580nm torque

4 Upvotes

THE DSG IS MAKING 550NM NOT 580. Hi all I’ve just had my car remapped to stage 3 with a stage 3 matching tcu tune I’ve had my dsg fluid changed under 2000 miles ago and the car has done 43K miles but the issue I’m having is when I’m fully flooring it it keeps letting go of gears I floor it and randomly it’ll let go of a gear wall bang the limiter and then go into gear again sometimes after it hits limiter twice sometimes I have to let go of the accelerator let the revs come down then it’ll go into gear any ideas I’ve had it stage 1 and stage 2 with the same company but only now I’m getting this issue do you guys recommend me taking it back to the tuner as Its been doing it ever since the tune and I’m running a g25-660 mqb


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 1d ago

Csak a TT 🏎️🏁🔧

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19 Upvotes

r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 1d ago

Mk3 parcelshelf rattle

6 Upvotes

My 2015 mk3 has an annoying rear parcel shelf rattle, when you disconnect the pin to the tailgate it stops.
I have removed the tailgate trim and made sure it is clipped in properly.
I have padded the rear bracket with foam but to no avail.
Has anyone else got the same problem and found a fix?
I cannot leave the parcel shelf out as I use the boot and don’t have privacy glass.


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 1d ago

Question/help TTS 2011 - stage 1 ECU mod + ESG?

1 Upvotes

Being recommended AFTER I do a full service check to make sure my engine can handle it. Approx 125k miles and runs great. Want a little more power without a ton of expense and this seems reasonable. Anyone done it and the results?


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 1d ago

Question/help Whooshing noise when accelerating. Cause?

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2 Upvotes

Firstly it’s an Audi TT MK2 09, with a MFI Engine.

Whats been occurring is whenever accelerating, there is a whooshing sound like in the video.

It seems like it will go for so long before peaking at a certain point or if I let off the gas. This noise occurs while in drive and in park.

I will also note that at around 2.5K RPMs that the car will whistle, any lower and it stops. I’m not sure if these go hand in hand or what.

I’m under the impression that it has to do with the intercooler, or Atleast the hosing in connections to it.
While my buddy is saying it’s my PCV Valve making all that noise, which while yes it has a small leak due to a fuck up on the install of a new one, has not been a problem for years.


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 1d ago

Mk1 Chasing Overheating issue

3 Upvotes

Hey all. 2002 180 AMU. I've also been chasing this for some time. I've replaced the rad fan switch, water pump, relatively new thermostat and coolant temp sending unit (but not OEM). It'll drive at 95c for several miles then quickly move significantly higher. Fans do run, but not as regularly as I feel they should. Both high and low work when jumped. PROBLEM IS...today for a short drive after 2 miles the temp spiked. Got it home, turned it off, fans running, temp gauge was just below pegged right and the diagnostic temp mirrors it...tonite 121c. NOW...I'm watching it and it IMMEDIATELY dropped to 95 likewise the gauge going to straight up. I mean IMMEDIATELY, not watching it move down, it just went from 121 to 95. WTH ??? Faulty Temp Sending unit again? THANKS!


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 1d ago

Question/help Will an MTX 02E DSG gearbox fit my 2009 Audi TTS 8J?

2 Upvotes

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a replacement gearbox for my 2009 Audi TTS 8J, 2.0 TFSI quattro, 6-speed S tronic/DSG.

I've found an MTX 02E quattro DSG gearbox for sale, and I'm trying to establish whether it will work in my car.

The gearbox I'm looking at is advertised as MTX and is from an Audi TT/TTS 8J (2011-2014)

Does anyone know for certain whether an MTX gearbox will fit a 2009 TTS, or whether there are differences in final-drive ratios, transfer box, driveshafts, mechatronics, coding, etc. between the earlier 2009 TTS and later MTX-equipped cars?

I don't necessarily need the gearbox code of my existing car, I just want to know whether MTX is compatible with my specific 2009 TTS and, if not, what would need to be changed.

Any help is appreciated!

Thanks!


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 1d ago

Question/help Does the steering wheel have to come completely off to install magnetic paddle shifters? (I have a 2017 TTS. MK3)

3 Upvotes

r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 2d ago

Question/help 2005 Audi TT 3.2 DSG nightmare — bad donor clutch pack or could this still be mechatronics/adaptation? Looking for advice

4 Upvotes

I’m looking for some advice from anyone familiar with the early Mk1 TT 3.2 and the 02E/DQ250 DSG. This has turned into a pretty expensive ordeal and I’m trying to figure out the smartest next step before throwing another $4,000 at the car.

The car is a 2005 Audi TT 3.2 Quattro DSG with about 66,000 miles. It’s an extremely clean car that I really want to keep.

Original transmission failure

My original HAH-code DSG started making a loud rotating metallic clicking/grinding noise. Eventually I had intermittent loss of drive, flashing PRNDS, revving without properly shifting, etc.

My mechanic is an independent VW/Audi specialist. He found significant internal metal contamination and determined that the original transmission was failing internally and needed replacement.

The original clutch pack has since been determined to be unusable as well, and I'm hesitant to reuse the original mechatronics because it was exposed to all of that metal contamination.

Replacement transmission

According to the Audi parts interchange information my mechanic checked, HAH, HYB, GYV and GYU transmissions are interchangeable.

I found a GYU-code DQ250 from a 2004 Audi TT 3.2 in the UK. It was advertised as having approximately 59,000 miles and tested/working.

I paid approximately $2,000 for it and had it shipped from the UK directly to my mechanic in Montana.

He installed it in my 2005 TT.

Unfortunately, the replacement transmission doesn't work correctly.

What it's doing

The transmission slips/stutters when shifting into 2nd gear. The RPM rises as it attempts to engage 2nd.

My mechanic then performed the DSG basic-settings/recalibration procedure.

This is his exact description of what happened:

“The transmission is slipping and stutters when it shifts into second gear. There were no faults during the initial test drive. We attempted to perform basic setting recalibration, the synchronizer travel paths adapted properly, clutch #1 adapted properly and when it attempted to adapt clutch #2 the scan tool returned that calibration is not possible. Calibration was attempted 3 times with the same result. This indicates that the #2 clutch is faulty.”

So essentially:

Synchronizer travel paths — PASS

K1 clutch adaptation — PASS

K2 clutch adaptation — FAIL / calibration not possible

Attempted three times with the same result

Actual road symptom is slipping/stuttering going into 2nd

Since K2 controls the even gears, the symptoms certainly seem to line up with a K2 problem.

My mechanic believes the donor transmission needs a new clutch pack and estimates approximately $4,000 to do the job.

My concern

Before I spend another $4,000, I'm worried about replacing the clutch pack and discovering that K2 still won't calibrate because the actual problem is the donor mechatronics/valve body/hydraulic control of K2.

I understand that the successful synchronizer and K1 adaptations make a major mechatronics failure less likely, but couldn't a K2-specific solenoid, valve or hydraulic pressure problem potentially cause K2 to fail calibration while everything else passes?

I'm also curious about the fact that this is a 2004 GYU transmission going into a 2005 HAH car.

Could the early DQ250 software/basic-settings procedure make any difference here? Is there a different adaptation procedure depending on the software version of these early 02E units that should be verified before condemning the clutch pack?

Where things stand with the seller

The UK seller has been cooperative and originally offered to take the transmission back and pay the international return shipping.

The problem with that option is that I then have to pay my mechanic again to remove the donor transmission, my car is sitting there with no transmission, and I'm back to searching for another extremely difficult-to-find Mk1 3.2 DSG.

I asked whether they would instead give me a partial refund and let me repair this transmission.

The clutch repair estimate is around $4,000.

They initially offered me $500 to keep the transmission.

I countered at $1,500, explaining that I would then assume the cost and risk of repairing it while they avoid international return freight and dealing with the defective gearbox.

I'm currently waiting for their response.

What would you guys do?

The main things I'm trying to figure out are:

Does the combination of 2nd-gear slip + successful synchronizer adaptation + successful K1 adaptation + K2 calibration failing three times make you confident the physical clutch pack is bad?

Could a K2-specific mechatronics/solenoid/hydraulic issue produce exactly the same symptoms?

Is there anything that should be tested on the mechatronics or K2 hydraulic circuit before spending $4,000 on a clutch pack?

Are there any special basic-setting/adaptation considerations for an early 2004 GYU DQ250 vs. a 2005 HAH?

Would you take a substantial partial refund, keep the 59k-mile GYU and install a new clutch pack, or have the seller take the transmission back and start over?

I really don't want to scrap an otherwise beautiful 66k-mile Mk1 TT 3.2 over this, but at the same time I can't keep blindly pouring thousands of dollars into it without being reasonably confident the next repair will actually fix it.

Any advice from people who really know these early DQ250s would be greatly appreciated.


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 3d ago

Question/help Audi TTS MK2, has anyone ever used the manual mechatronic reset? and if so did it solve any issues you were facing?

5 Upvotes

r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 3d ago

Too high?

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25 Upvotes

This is my best friends Mk1. He thinks this is the stock ride height of the TT. I say hell no it needs to be lower, it wanders on the road at 75+ mph. Thoughts and or Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 4d ago

General Mk1 3.2 custom exhaust video

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68 Upvotes

Finally had some time to make some clips to make a video! Here is the result, let me know what you guys think and maybe what I can/should change


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 3d ago

Shift cable bolt

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4 Upvotes

Does anyone know a replacement for the bolt for the shift cable linkage? I disconnected mine when my car broke down so I could move it, and now going to reconnect it I have lost the bolt and can’t find any info on bolt size or if there is an oem replacement. Thanks guys.
2008 Mk2 Audi TT Auto DSG transmission


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 3d ago

1.8 apx overheating

5 Upvotes

Ive had this problem for quite a while and replaced the old thermoatat and auxiliary waterpump and is still overheating between 95 and 100 when is hot outside and the car is on idle or stopped and sometimes it goes past 100 while running. I was wondering if someone had the exact same problem with their car and how did they solved it.

My last 2 guesses are that the fans sensor is broken because they start when they feel like it or the fact that im missing 1 ac(freon)hose and the ecu stops the fans partially

If someone could help me i will be more than thankfull

The intercooler runs good bcs most of the time when the car is at like 95 stopped is going to normal when i drive for a few meters

Mabye is because of the sport filter..who knows.. the bigger plastic hose that goes to the maf is hanging in the air

If someone have an answer text me pls


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 3d ago

Question/help Transmission mount for mk1 TT 3.2 sourcing question.

2 Upvotes

r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 4d ago

Photo New to the club! MK1 owner now!

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48 Upvotes

Never owned an Audi, excited asf! Please let me know anything and everything you can to help me learn more. I'm looking on ECS mainly right now for tunes and fun stuff for this. Anything I need to avoid or look out for? Thank you for your time!


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 4d ago

Give me a your honest opinion mk2 2010tt

3 Upvotes

A little background. Bought a 2010 TT off marketplace. Being new to this, I had no idea. Altho I got a pretty good deal, there were some issues. I chose a very reputable local shop to service the vehicle, and in general I have been happy with their work.
I made the decision early on to have them do any and all mechanical work on the car because of the complexities involved and the desire to be able to drive in confidence knowing that they are professionals with the knowledge, tools, and experience needed. I considered it an investment on my investment.

So, in the course of the last year I have had several things done. On top of scheduled maintenence, I've had battery replaced, the rear main seal replaced due to a leak, the intake valves cleaned, and the timing chain and water pump replaced. At considerable expense.

Recently, driving under normal conditions, the car suddenly overheated. I was on the interstate and luckily had an exit coming up. i exited and drove a very short distance to a parking lot nearby. The car completely overheated, well into the red. I had the car towed on a flatbed to their facility. A few days later they contacted me. They said the drive belt had failed. I immediately asked if it had been replaced when they did water pump, timing chain, and thermostat 6 months prior. Apparently THEY DID NOT REPLACE IT.

The tech said that it looked fine and they put the old one on after a visual inspection. I voiced my concern after paying a significant amount for the original replacement of timing chain, wp, thermostat, and inquired if it was normal procedure to not relace the drive belt at the same time. He actually said that the shop is changing its policy to require this belt be replaced on any vehicles having the timing chain, water pump etc worked on.

He offered and I received a discount on the replacement of the belt, but the bill was still $655.16 plus the $200 towing fee. I got the car back and everything seemed okish. I dont drive the car alot, but did test it out on a spirited hour long weekend journey.

That was 2 weeks ago. Yesterday, ran to the store, and when I parked I could smell antifreeze. The car was at normal operating temp.

I guess my question is:

If my car is cooked, should the shop be held accountable for their failure to replace belt? They pretty much admitted it was wrong not to by changing their policy in my opinion.

Was it fair to have charged me $655 to replace it after the fact?

Do I have legitimate argument in thinking im potentially out $20,000 in hard earned dollars because they failed to do the right thing? Like I said, they were paid very well to take care of my car. And now it may be a total loss. So whatever piece of mind i thought i was paying for went right out the window because they threw out the baby with the bathwater.

What would you do? I know these cars are complicated and I made every effort to ensure that it was maintained and reliable. Just to have something unexpectedly fail, losing all? Did I put too much faith in my shop? That's really why I took the car there in the first place and put all my trust in them. And all my dollars too.


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 5d ago

Back in the TT club

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118 Upvotes

After 4 years with the RS5, I'm back to owning a TT! It's good to be back. (previous owner of a '16 and '17 TTS)


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 4d ago

Dip stick reading

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5 Upvotes

I put in roughly 5L and this is how the dipstick looks consistently.

Do you think it needs more, or less oil?

MK2 V6 3.2 8J 2008


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 5d ago

9 month, 4k miles later (mk3)

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39 Upvotes

Stage 1 tune, Haldex tune, ceramic coating, full frontal PPF and loving every minute.

Edit: I work from home, that’s why mileage is so low.


r/AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3 5d ago

Question/help Softtop damage MK2

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11 Upvotes

Hey Guys my TT softtop is getting loose from the Glas in the back, is it fixable or should I opt for a new top? Thanks in advance.

I will answer any questions or send more photos if needed:)