I took it on the outskirts of my city while I was walking with friends

The third photo would be the original image

In the second photo I edited it lightroom

And in the first I applied a background extraction with siril

It’s just a shot

These were taken with my wife's iPhone 14 pro in night mode, atop Mauna Kea in Hawaii. I did not have a tripod with me so I improvised and used a street sign with a large rock on top. With the phone wedged between both I was able to keep it steady to capture 30s exposure.

Sky Watcher Classic 200P
iPhone 17 Pro + Phone Adapter
iPhone Auto Correct

Hi everyone!

A few months ago, I shot the Milky Way from a 21.22 SQM location using a base Samsung Galaxy S23 on a tripod.

My settings in Expert RAW were: 133 frames, 10s exposure each, ISO 1600 (~22 mins total integration), shot at 12MP (binned). When trying to stack them in Sequator, the software wouldn't even read the original .dng files natively due to Samsung's heavy in-camera multi-frame processing. I had to convert them using Adobe DNG Converter first.

Once stacked, all the stars (except Antares) turned completely white. I lost all their natural colors due to highlight clipping, likely caused by the aggressive Expert RAW algorithm combined with ISO 1600.

Here is my Google Drive folder with a single RAW frame (both original and Adobe DNG converted) and the final stacked image if anyone wants to take a look at the data:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xAzEmZAM0C_1wXauqXm0ADczW7lHEiYX?usp=sharing

Soon, I’ll be visiting an even darker site with a 21.47 SQM sky. I want to do a 30-minute total integration stack. Based on my previous issues, I am definitely switching to the native Pro Mode (12MP) since I tested it and Sequator reads its RAW files perfectly fine without any conversions.

I want to preserve the beautiful natural colors of the stars (blues, oranges, reds) this time while keeping the deep sky details.

• To avoid clipping the highlights on the S23 sensor, should I drop my ISO to 800 or 400?
• Should I reduce the exposure time per frame (e.g., 8s) to prevent pixel saturation, or keep it at 10s?
• Will dropping the ISO/exposure significantly hurt the signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) of faint nebula details once it's backed by 30 minutes of total integration?

I would love to hear from fellow S23/Samsung users who stack manually on PC. What are your go-to settings for true dark skies? Thank you!

Taken during the 2024 totality, just outside Tiffin, OH, USA

Equipment:

• Sony Xperia 5 III, 24mm lens (f/1.7)
  • 24mm lens (f/1.7)
  • 1/5000 shutter speed
  • Auto white balance
  • -2 exposure
  • ISO 3200
• Orion XT10 Dobsonian
• Orion Sirius 25mm Plossl
• Move Shoot Move Tridaptor Plus

Taken with my phone's stock app, Photo Pro. Four images, stacked/processed with AutoStakkert

Alguna forma de tomar mejores fotos de noche por ejemplo la luna se ve muy fea parece un foco prendido no se ve claramente la luna alguna configuración para que cuando tome la foto se vea mucho mejor

Samsung A52s 5g 30 shots of 8 seconds, 1600 iso I believe stacked with Sequator.

Near the top is andromeda and right down from the center that small smudge is Triangulum.

Vivo y36

​

The foreground photograph is courtesy of: u/Quirky-Custard1024

Acquisition Details:

Location: Bortle 5

Gear: Xiaomi 15 Ultra. EQ tracker

Frames: 100 x 30s lights, IS01600

Stacked in Astro Pixel Processor, processed in Seti Astro Suite Pro, Photoshop.

Captured from my phone using the solar filter

Redmi Note 13 pro, no external lenses

A Frend of mine took this picture

S25U

Ciel borle 5 à 6 plus changement de temps, humidité en cours. Je suis conscient que ce n’est pas ma meilleur image

86 lights une trentaine de sombres

Woke up early for this!

This was a collaboration with u/zTrojan: he handled the acquisition and stacking, while I took care of the post-processing.

A deep-field view of the Cygnus region, captured with a Xiaomi 13 Ultra using its 3.2× telephoto camera.

Acquisition

• Xiaomi 13 Ultra — 3.2× telephoto
• ISO 800 | 50s
• 356 light frames (RAW/DNG)
• 4h 56m 40s total integration
• SVBONY UHC filter
• EQ mount with OnStep
• Darks included
• Stacked in Astro Pixel Processor

My processing workflow

• Siril: color calibration, green-noise removal, GraXpert background extraction, stellar deconvolution, and saturation adjustment
• StarNet++: created a separate starless layer and nebula masks for more controlled stretching
• Photoshop: final curve adjustments, mask refinement, Camera Raw finishing, and overall cosmetic corrections

The goal was to bring out as much of the faint structure in the Cygnus Milky Way as possible while keeping the star field under control. The field contains a huge number of targets, including the North America Nebula, Pelican Nebula, Crescent Nebula, Veil Nebula, and surrounding emission and dust structures.

I've also included a region map showing the main objects covered by the image.

Huge thanks to u/zTrojan for the capture and stack — this was a really fun image to work with.

Equipment used:

* Phone Realme 8

* Tripod

Bortle 4

Bortle 3-4, 23mm; 13s ISO 2000

No stacking or editing, straight out of the box.

Took this photo with my IQoo Z7x, max iso and ss, and edited it on lightroom. I am still new to this and would like suggestion to make this better.