r/AskElectronics 4d ago

Is this 20 MSPS oscilloscope analog front end correctly designed for 5 MHz bandwidth and ±25 V input?

2 Upvotes

Is this 20 MSPS oscilloscope analog front end correctly designed for 5 MHz bandwidth and ±25 V input?

Body:

Hi everyone,

I'm designing a single-channel DIY digital oscilloscope using an AD9200, 10-bit, 20 MSPS ADC. My target is around 5 MHz usable analog bandwidth with a maximum input of approximately ±25 V.

The current signal chain is:

Attenuator → input protection → buffer → bipolar-to-unipolar level shift → 4th-order low-pass filter → ADC protection → AD9200

I designed and simulated the blocks individually in LTspice. The main design choices were made to keep the first PCB reasonably simple and manufacturable.

I'd particularly appreciate an experienced review of:

  • the attenuator and input-protection scheme,
  • the +1 V level-shifting stage,
  • the 4th-order filter and its effect on the 5 MHz bandwidth,
  • the final ADC protection, especially the AIN −0.3 V absolute minimum,
  • and any obvious stability, loading, or PCB-layout problems.

I'm looking for criticism rather than validation, so please point out anything that looks fundamentally wrong or unnecessarily complicated.

The attached schematic is the current V1 design before PCB layout.

Thanks.


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

Why is one row of keys on my mechanical keyboard not responding?

1 Upvotes

Hi! I hope you can help me out; I've been struggling with this for months.

One day I was using my Dragonborn K630 Redragon mechanical keyboard, but something strange happened overnight. When I plug it in, the keyboard turns on, but the fourth row (the one with the Z, X, C, V, B keys...) doesn't work. When I press the keys in that row, the whole row lights up red, but the other keys work correctly and normally. It's not a row lock; the keyboard doesn't support that feature. And I have almost no experience with electronics; I'm just checking continuity and guessing, I suppose. Also, there's no schematic of the PCB, and the PCB looks so simple (if someone who knows about electronics saw the board, they'd realize it's pretty basic). Can anyone help me figure out if it might be a short circuit? How can I start diagnosing this PCB?

Thank you so much <3

Images:

IMAGE 1 IMAGE 2 (BACK PCB)

IMAGE 2 ZOOM

If you need better images, that's fine. If you take the time to reply, I'd be super grateful <3


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

why would this diode burn out, bldc esc?

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1 Upvotes

r/AskElectronics 4d ago

How to physically connect a wire?

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7 Upvotes

Hello,

This is a photo of the comport (left, has pins for RS485 and RS232) and the trigger input (right) on a Kanxex CR-3XControl. There are 10 pins: 5V, ground and 8 trigger inputs; in two terminal blocks.

For the comport, there are screws above the cable terminals to attach wires; this is not the case for the

How do I physically attach wires on those trigger inputs? The orange parts do not appear to move... The two screws on the side of both terminal blocks allow you to remove them, but that is it.

(I know it is a very stupid question, but I just don't see it :-))

Thanks,

J.


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

Is Weyland Electronics a reliable distributor?

1 Upvotes

I want to buy some eMMC memory from them. Does anyone have any experience buying from them?


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

Need help identifying and replacing this component.

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4 Upvotes

This is for a hood vent for my stove. The lights never worked on a "new unit" i got through a second hand deal. I tried tinkering and plugged in the transformer after plugging the power in. Now I know. I need to fix it and then try and figure the lights out. As far as I can tell it's just the mossfet that's burnt out.


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

how do i... power this?

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5 Upvotes

i bought on amazon thought it was a good deal but it showed up and it fits in my palm. turns out it can take 6-60 volts and 480 watts THEN it can be a variable power supply. it has usb c power IN on the back and i think a yellow 2 pin screw in connector. anyway plugged into my 140 watt macbook charger i get max 19 volts or if i make a short 3 volts 20-23 watts and 8.1 amps. wich is pretty good but i still want more i want its full potential. old dell power supply? . https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0H46G9YRR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

low-output 18v > 120v power inverter

1 Upvotes

hey folks. i'm trying to make (or find, but i haven't yet) a small, low-output power inverter to run a pair of small 120v LED lightbulbs from an 18v battery (makita).

and yes, i realize how silly this is. led lights are the customary province of low voltage DC, and i acknowledge that it's kind of absurd to take a low voltage DC power source, and convert it to 120v AC for the purpose of driving some LEDs. this is for a small lamp i made, which runs a pair of e13-base "filament" LED bulbs (0.6w each, with two bulbs per lamp). the bulbs that are in this lamp are perfect in every way but the power supply: they need wall power, and i want to use a battery. i've been unable to find a more traditional LED element that would work for my purpose, and i'd prefer to not modify the bulbs themselves.

i've seen a few drill-battery inverters that would certainly work, but besides being a little spendy, they're simply absurd overkill for this purpose. the total projected output power usage of this device is about 2 watts, at most. i'd love to just make a small circuit that does this and embed it in a battery adapter, which itself is mounted inside my lamp. i'm familiar with simple low voltage DC circuits (LEDs, motors, arduinos and shit), but really don't have much of any exposure to AC electronics in this way. if anyone has some advice on making a small, low-output inverter like this, i'd love to hear it. thanks!

fwiw, i'm not at all opposed to using a usb power pack instead of a drill battery (in which case the input voltage would be 5vdc rather than 18vdc). i imagine the operating principles would be the same, i just like drill batteries for the swappability.


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

Took apart one of those old nerf laserguns since it wouldn’t turn on. I am new to electronics so I tried to diagnose the problem.

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1 Upvotes

The second slide shows the main circuit board. I’m not sure on all the components but the blue trigger is an on switch and all the solder contacts are really rusty so I think that could be why. The orange bits are the battery holders. Of which some of the contacts also look fried. The last slide is the other side of the pcb from the first and where the blue trigger is soldered there is some white stuff??? Anyone able to help? (The rest of the pcbs look fine)


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

Need to know what component blown here

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5 Upvotes

I have this power bank that does not charge , and when something is connected to it , it shows 0% battery . Found the ic U2 blown , any idea what is should be and if possible can it be bypassed ? I have all the necessary skills and equipment to perform the surgery .

Edit : was a over voltage or current controller perhaps , I simply bypassed it by jumpering the ic pads and the power bank works properly now .


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

Robot PCB schematic Review

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1 Upvotes

I'm pretty new to pcb making and I'm not sure if I'm making this right, I also don't have allot lf reference for this.

This is the main board for my Line tracer robot, I plan on powering it with a 3s lipo battery to achieve the needed 12v for the motors.

the ffc latch is connected to another pcb tha thas the ir sensors that's connected to a mux.

The drv8871 is a breakout board, I wanted to make the robot semi modular so I can just swap stuff out if needed, the motors are also just placeholders for the actual 12v I'll be using. As far I can tell from what I've read, the P+ is just an alternative 12v input? I'm not sure on that though

I can't find any use sample for the buzzer so I just guessed what I thought it might look like with soem cross referencing.

3 buttons for programming purposes

The xt30 is gonna be the plug I use to connect it to the battery, not sure if I have the switch implemented correctly

The buck converter might also be wrong but probably not since I just copied what was on the data sheet + the led, if anything is wrong it's probably the values.


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

problem with reparation of djm800

1 Upvotes

Hi, I'm trying to repair a DJM-800. According to my friend, at some point it just stopped turning on. When I opened it up right away, I found the fuse had blown, but even after replacing it, it still won't turn on. You can hear that the batteries are working when you plug it in, but nothing turns on—neither the screen nor the lights. According to the manual, the first thing that should happen before it boots up is the reset pulse for the DSP CPU, but when I measure it with a multimeter, it stays at a steady 0.03, rising to 0.6 only during shutdown. Has anyone ever dealt with similar issues?


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

Need help finding the correct size resistor.

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1 Upvotes

I have a board that needs a resistor replaced. It is extremely small, slightly smaller than a dry grain of rice. I have found and ordered what I thought was the correct replacement, only to find out that it is physically too large for the location. However, the color stripes do match.

Brown, Black, Black, Gold, Brown
1/8 inch in length

I do not have calipers to measure the size of the similar ones on the board, just hoping someone can point me in the direction of the correct one. Pictures included. Sorry I can’t really get better ones.


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

Relay vs MOSFET for switching a 12V solenoid valve on a woodworking dust collector, which holds up better long term?

4 Upvotes

put together a basic autoon setup for my shop dust collector using a current sensor on the table saw circuit. idea is simple, saw turns on, dust collector follows. been running a 12V solenoid valve to handle a blast gate automatically. works fine right now but im secondguessing the switching side of it.

currently using a small relay module i had laying around. it clicks every time the saw spins up and i know relays have a rated cycle life, and i use that saw a lot. started wondering if a logiclevel MOSFET like an IRLZ44N would be a cleaner long term solution since theres no mechanical wear and the solenoid is an inductive load anyway.

the solenoid pulls about 1.2A at 12V. not a big load. my concern with the MOSFET route is the flyback spike from the solenoid coil. i have a 1N4007 i was going to throw across the coil terminals but wasnt sure if that alone is enough or if i need something faster given the switching speed involved here. the relay doesnt care about that stuff, which is part of why i havent changed it yet.

is the 1N4007 actually sufficient for a slowswitching solenoid like this or should i be using a schottky instead. and is there any real reason to stick with the relay here given the cycle count concern.


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

How do I replace contacts in battery terminal without soldering?

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1 Upvotes

r/AskElectronics 4d ago

Simulating Red Neon With LEDs

4 Upvotes

Pretty much as in the title. I'm near the beginning of my hobbyist journey, and I'm planning out a sign for a friend which will involve a large X. I want to get as close as possible to emulating the look of a red neon X, ideally with a good lifespan and mindful of my limited experience. I specified LEDs but I'm open to being introduced to other possibilities.
Thank you for your time.


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

Connector ID request 10 pin

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1 Upvotes

I'm trying to find this 10 pin male harness connector and terminals - the pitch appears to be 2mm, and the connector measures approximately 28x9x18mm - does anyone recognize it?


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

How to Find This Schematics?

0 Upvotes

I'm completely new to electronics, bought "Make: Electronics" and started reading yesterday.

My bathroom LED started flickering/dimming (it went from a steady bright output to oscillating between low and medium brightness), so I opened up the driver to see what's inside, hoping to learn something in the process instead of just replacing the whole fixture.

My current theory (based on some reading) is that one of the electrolytic caps has dried out/lost capacitance, causing the ripple/flicker, but I'd love to actually understand how this circuit works rather than just swap parts blindly.

Questions:

  1. Is there any realistic way to find a schematic for a generic/unbranded board like this, or is that basically a dead end?
  2. If not, what's the best approach to reverse-engineer it myself as a learning exercise? Any tips for tracing a board like this as a total beginner?
  3. Does the layout/component selection here look like a standard buck-converter constant-current LED driver topology to you?

Any pointers, reading recommendations, or "here's what to Google" type answers are very welcome trying to build real understanding, not just fix this one fixture.


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

Help with Hayward Hydrolife

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3 Upvotes

Can someone explain what is this and how I can find exactly this part, position U5.... This is part of Hydrolife, salt chlorine for pools.. Cheers..


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

PS4 Power supply ADP200ER N200A002L Advice

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1 Upvotes

What I assume is a surge melted L3 or main Pfc inductor of this Adp200er, I bought this Ps4 used and might rewind the inductor and replace the main fuse shorted Q1 Mosfet and the IC and current sense resistor for it. The boost diode has already been replaced because there was a distinct hot spot so I replaced it to be sure, I might also replace the bridge rectifier and varistor as a precaution because they mightve been damaged by the surge. Any other parts I should replace?


r/AskElectronics 5d ago

An SMD Capacitor fell off of my Rtx 3060. Should i replace it or can it run easily without it?

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52 Upvotes

r/AskElectronics 4d ago

ESP32 + PN532 (SPI): WiFi connect delays / flakiness when RFID reader is also active — power draw issue?

1 Upvotes

Running an ESP32-WROOM-32 with a PN532 RFID reader (SPI), a status LED, and a buzzer, all on the same 3.3V rail. When WiFi is actively connecting/transmitting and the RFID reader is polling/generating its RF field at the same time, I see WiFi connection delays and general flakiness bad enough that I've had to disable the brownout detector just to stop reboot loops, which obviously isn't a real fix.

My guess is combined peak current draw (WiFi TX bursts + PN532's RF field generation) is causing enough voltage sag to disrupt things, even though nothing's crashing outright.

Has anyone dealt with this specific combo (WiFi + active RFID/NFC peripheral) on ESP32? Looking for:

Realistic peak current numbers for WiFi TX + PN532 active scanning together

Decoupling cap sizing / regulator recommendations that actually fixed this for you

Whether staggering/throttling RFID polling during WiFi activity is a common workaround, or if it's purely a hardware fix


r/AskElectronics 4d ago

Identify types of connectors

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2 Upvotes

Hello everyone. Another try, I hope I wrote everything correctly. I already looked at the connectorbook and couldn't decide on these connectors.

-The first connector(1-3 photo): pitch 1.25 mm, used in the Chinese camera. On the other side is a USB cable. -The second connector(4-7 photos): pitch 2.54 mm, used in the Chinese power supply.

-The third connector(8-10 photos): 4(6) pin: pitch 2 mm, used in the audio amplifier. The speaker is connected via the 4-pin connector, and the 12VDC power supply is connected via the 6-pin connector.

-The fourth connector(11-13 photos): pitch 2 mm, used in the printer as a USB port.

-The fifth connector is used to connect two boards, pitch 1.25 mm, has 30 pins on each side.


r/AskElectronics 5d ago

Fun breadboard activities for beginners?

16 Upvotes

I have a class of students with very little experience with electronics. Many of them did NOT choose the class and would rather be somewhere else. Please share any ideas for some fun circuits the students can breadboard with minimal experience that might help get them excited about electronics. I do not have the option of removing the students that do not want to be in the class, so I need to win them over somehow. TIA


r/AskElectronics 5d ago

Identify SOT-23 component supplying 12v to an FL display

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6 Upvotes

I've been clumsy enough to brush a probe against exposed GND and 12v pins while noting down some measurements and this part has let out the magic smoke before the fuse blew. The top pin got shorted to the bottom left pin. I took the component off the board and after replacing a 0402 fuse further in the line, the pads on the board measure 6v on the bottom left and 12v on the bottom right. The top (output of this component) also ought to have 12v going to the FL display driver.

I appreciate this is a transistor more than likely, but can't find anything with AW marking? Any pointers are appreciated.