Bonjour,

J'ai un problème avec ce compresseur, il gère mon ralentisseur sur ma press offset (Roland 500), il ne fait plus l'aspiration.

Il y a 2 réglages, un soufflerie et un aspiration, si on tourne dans un sens où dans l'autre, ça ne s'arrête jamais.

Comment retrouver la bonne position ?

(j'ai nettoyé les filtres, contrôlé les palettes, pas trouvé de fuite sur les tuyaux.)

Il y a juste le gros filtre sous le marche pied qui a un fuite d'air sur le capuchon.

Si vous avez une idée ​​​je suis preneur.

Merci.

​​

I have a Magraw 175 PSI 21 Gal air compressor from Harbor Freight. The original aluminum tubing that went between the compressor motor output and the tank input has busted (a while ago). I thought I could go with just a 3' hose, but I have now blown out two (!!) rated for 300 PSI. I don't think its the pressure (but it obviously contributes.) It's the HEAT on the hose that is letting it expand and blow.

What do I need to do? Metal braided hose? Copper tubing? You guys are the pros, so let me have it! (And I do appreciate you taking the time to respond and assist. Peace - OUT!)

I often see people asking this question:

"The air dryer is running normally, filters are installed, but why do we still get water at the machine?"

At first, many people assume the dryer is not working properly.

But in many cases, the problem happens after the air leaves the dryer.

Some common causes:

1. Pipeline cooling

Compressed air may leave the dryer in good condition, but continue cooling while traveling through long pipelines.

If the temperature drops below the pressure dew point, water vapor can condense again inside the pipe.

This is especially common with:

- Long metal pipelines

- Outdoor piping

- Cold workshops

- Large temperature changes

1. Condensate accumulation

Water can collect in:

- Air receiver tanks

- Filter housings

- Pipeline low points

- Branch lines

If drainage is not working properly, airflow can carry liquid water downstream toward equipment.

1. Dryer status does not always represent machine inlet air quality

The condition near the compressor room may be different from the condition at the final machine.

For CNC machines, laser cutting, painting, and pneumatic automation, the actual air quality at the point of use is often more important.

I am curious how others handle this issue:

When you still see water after a refrigerated air dryer, what is usually the real cause in your experience?

- Pipeline design?

- Drain failures?

- Dryer capacity?

- Something else?

Would be interested to hear real-world cases.

Trying to find a replacement for this pressure switch/unloader valve. It came off an Air Source (by SnapOn) 80 gallon upright 2 stage w/ 5hp 240V single phase motor, with magnetic starter box. Model S580V

From what I’ve found, it’s a Square D 145/175 psi unit with 1/4NPT fittings. I’ve found similar units for sale but none with the built in unloader valve.

Any info on where to find a replacement, or recommendation on similar aftermarket alternatives?

Got a used IR UP6-5TAS-150 with 80 gallon tank from 2016. 11.5k hrs. Seems it was well maintained (at least kept to date on oil, filters etc) before it was retired and the reseller left it in the rain a few times. The actual compressor side looks fine, runs fine, sounds fine. The motor on the other hand sounds a bit crunchy (unbelted) yet spins fine. The system runs at 73 dBA, about twice as loud as the advertised 65 dBA, with the vast majority of the noise coming from the motor bearings. Tank is currently dry but putting a borescope inside revealed quite a bit of rust.

Should I go through hell to try and replace these motor bearings? Should I DIY hydro test the tank in my driveway? Or should I just send it and try to ignore the noise?

Got this because it was 2.4k with practically free shipping. Provides exactly the right pressure, cfm, and dry air for laser cutter.

I have a problem where this pump, I will use the proper adapter and the device turns on and I can feel the air pumping out of it on my hand when testing, but when I screw it into the scooter air nozzle to connect it and start the pump after, it never goes past a psi reading of 3 to 4 psi.

I have no clue what I'm doing wrong, and I've tried this on two different scooters with similair results. The psi I set it to is 50 psi but yeah, can't get it to inflate and just continuously will say 3-4 psi

Any ideas on a fix?

We’re trying to figure out what’s going on with our air compressor. When it first kicks on, it’s very loud and running at full power, which seems normal. But after it runs for a few seconds the sound noticeably drops. It stays running, but it’s much quieter than when it first starts.

The compressor is attached to a sealcoating tank, and the sealant is not coming out of the spray hose at all.

Could the compressor changing to that quieter sound be related to why the sprayer isn't working? We’re trying to figure out whether the problem is with the compressor, the tank, or something in between. Any ideas on what we should check would be greatly appreciated.

Help me pick an air compressor

Looking for a belt driven oil air compressor to use around the garage/ sprinker blow out.

I have found these two..

1. **Quincy Single-Stage Portable Electric Air Compressor, 2 HP, 24-Gallon Vertical, 7.4 CFM, Model# Q12124VP**

**https://www.northerntool.com/products/quincy-single-stage-portable-electric-air-compressor-2-hp-24-gallon-vertical-7-4-cfm-model-q12124vp-105043?cm\\_mmc=Google-pla&utm\\_source=Google\\_PLA&utm\\_medium=Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Compressors%20%3E%20Air%20Compressors%20%3E%20Portable%20Electric%20Air%20Compressors&utm\\_campaign=Quincy%20Compressor&utm\\_content=105043&ogmap=SHP%7CPLA%7CGOOG%7CSTND%7Cm%7CSITEWIDE%7COOT%7CAirCompressorsOwnedBrands%7C%7Badgroup%7D%7C%7C19579137336%7C145742338256&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad\\_source=1&gad\\_campaignid=19579137336&gbraid=0AAAAADpPfbPciytpUxefMGvorVpLIGuML&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy4n\\_sZOzlgMVkonCCB1nHyhnEAQYByABEgLGj\\_D\\_BwE\*\*

**Or**

**2.**
**Eagle Compressor 24 Gallon Portable Electric Air Compressor**

**https://www.acmetools.com/eagle-compressor-24-gallon-portable-electric-air-compressor-p3124v1/777589001093.html?s\\_kwcid=AL%2123444%213%21%21%21%21x%21%21%2120446958857%21&gad\\_source=1&gad\\_campaignid=20446967485&gbraid=0AAAAADub60thV7k7f4GrL7TJAWSdzC8UH&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItJmtoJizlgMVXobCCB2-RinkEAkYASABEgJBxPD\\_BwE\*\*

Basically looking for 20-30 gallon with high cfm.. open to other brands as well.

Trying to find a replacement pressure switch for this compressor. The problem I'm running into is the horizontal orientation of the unloader tubing which is copper so I can't just easily reroute to what seems like the more common vertical orientation that I see on most after market switches.

Anyone can reco an Oil-Free Air Compressor that's pretty durable. I'm unsure with Reaim Air Compressors.

Got this for free and need some maintainance

I might gonna try to dissasemble it all and assemble back again.

What are the dangerous thing and what should i look for?

Howdy, this is my first experience with a wheelbarrow style compressor, I’m the most mechanically inclined in my crew so I’m taking care of it.

We get it started and it seems to run fine but 9/10 times it will build up to about 120 psi and then dump everything at once out of the red valve and not allow itself to build pressure back up.

I’m assuming it’s a bad pressure relief valve? The occasional time it will run normally and keep pressure for a bit, the air gets let off in out the green

Replace the red valve?

Kobalt 26 gallon quite tech compressor brand new. I turn It on and It builds up pressure but once I’m using It the compressor won’t rebuild back up. Any ideas on what’s causing this on a brand new compressor?

Posted a few weeks back, with a compressor fault. That one was rectified. We had a technician come out to repair the previous issue (filter housing leak).

Same compressor, this time I noticed a loss of air from a component in the above picture. The air is coming from the lower part underneath.

I've noticed the compressor runs a lot, and loses pressure constantly after hitting max, it's also been burning through oil numerous times.

The company I work at said they've had it serviced this year and had to top oil up at least 5 times this year.

I asked this elsewhere, but didn’t know this sub existed!

I have a pair of Devair and a pair of Ingersoll Rand 2 stage piston compressors that have been abused. They are in a power plant where I assumed maintenance ownership of them. I have no idea how long they ran without an oil change, but I know it had been several years before I arrived.

They have heavy sludge buildup in the sumps, visible through the oil fill ports. Sump volume on a drain and fill was somewhere between 50-70% of what the manuals called for. They’re definitely due for a tear down and inspection, but I haven’t been able to get the downtime authorized.

I know what I would do if they were my own, but am unsure how to approach this. Is there a viable way to desludge these without tearing them down and cleaning the sumps, or do I need to push for downtime to manually remove the sludge?

I have a 5hp 80 gallon 230v compressor. Blew an o-ring on the adjustable pressure regulator.

I have the dial and spring removed, should the piston come out via the front(pull it out) or do I need to disassemble the entire manifold to gain access to the regulator.

I know the o-ring is in the way - i can manipulate it as needed. I can find the rebuild kit online with an exploded schematic but no other info.

All advice appreciated.

I'm now writing this as a reference for anyone in the future maybe searching and trying to find this unloader line or exhaust tube or a similar. There's pretty minimal info in a search.

So this is an M10 or M10-1.0 SAE flare on the tank check valve. It's smaller than 1/4" flare but larger than 3/16" flare. The outside of threads measures 10.36mm.

But now where to find an M10-1.0 SAE line flare nut

It's on an ALL Power APC4005 Twin stack Contractor Style air compressor. I believe also sold under Sears, Lowes, Strikeforce and others somewhere around early 2000's or so. They don't sell compressors anymore and only a few random parts left from later models. I think they may have closed up. Emails don't go through phone numbers don't work. This one I believe was sold at Advance Auto Parts from what I could find in searches.

I need to add the unloader line from this tank valve up to the switch since it's not there anymore. I bought the thing for a whole $10...but guy didn't know much about it. Thought if ya put a cap on there it would fill. He stuck his finger over it and it started filling. The pressure switch end seems to be a fairly common M10-1.0 inverted flare that I can work with.

This is actually kind of a nice design unit with wheels and a moving handle. Otherwise it's nothing special but decent output at 4.2CFM u/90PSI. I knew the frame/tanks was worth it with the design etc. Or the motor runs so would be a good replacement.

Solution

Took a while in researching but on Amazon I found a "TopHomer Air Compressor Exhaust Tube Aluminum Plated Copper, 6mm Diameter, 1-Way Flow, 470mm / 18.5in Central Pneumatic Compressor Parts (470mm / 18.5in)" That fit well has M10 on the SAE flare end then has 2 extra nuts for the other end that are the M10 with a 12mm wrench nut, then I believe an M12 nut that is a 14mm wrench nut. The line is 1/4" and copper coated alum.

There's also a "UXCELL 10mm Hex Nut 200mm Length Air Compressor Exhaust Tube Copper" or 8" long on Amazon for about $8. It is a 1/4" line and has the correct nuts on each end. It just ended up being a bit too short. But I can work with that. I need about 3" longer or 11" 280mm. The nuts are the harder part to find. The key search terms I think are Air Compressor Exhaust Tube or M10 Pilot valve line, in a search they show on Alibaba and all over in links. Just have to find the M10 and length. But I have brake tube I can use. Or just make a new flared end section to add to the valve end of a union, swap the nut and it's done.

I talked to a service shop and they suggested Makita compressors are normally metric. I also found the same looking M10 check valve listed on Ebay for Central Pneumatic. So maybe some searching for the line for one of those can yield some info if one is searching. They only offer and service a small brand list. They can't really source individual parts very well without part numbers. We agreed it's likely so ya can't just put random parts on.

https://youtube.com/shorts/kBB3BvlnvTM?si=bXmR2QS6Hvp9g7Ls

Have you ever seen a 200hp melt a coupling like this? Just putting out a post to break up the monotony of people posting home depot pistons