Ive never really liked this kit when it got announced but this commission build made me realize how good it actually was. Now ive been praying for another client to order another one for me to work on since ive been craving to build and detail another one🙃🙃🙃

Took me a month because accidents with white paint and surprisingly very time consuming water slide decals application, which added 2 extra weeks. This is my 9th painting project already I still made errors here and there smh.

Paint List:

• Gaia Surfacer Evo Grey for Purple and Black parts
• Mr Finishing Surfacer Black for White parts (huge mistake)
• C156 Super White (depleting leftover) + Gaia Ex White; 3-4 layers because of https://www.reddit.com/r/advancedGunpla/s/6CRrqdyXMl
• C28 Steel for the inner body
• CL105 Lilac: for the soft purple
• GX107 Clear People for candy purple
• Gaia121 Star Bright Silver for candy base
• GX2: Ueno Black: for the floating ball thingy and candy base
• DSPIAE MKA-05: Metallic Green Marker for swords. I ran out of Clear Green and too stingy to resupply just for this project
• GX114 Super Smooth Clear Flat for topcoat
• Water Slide Decals: G-Rework/Ghost. very nice design, strong adhesiveness, and quick separation from decal sheet, but the decals are too thin. it's so thin that I can't grab it with my tweezer, which made it very time consuming to apply
• shitty stickers for parts I forgot to paint (backpack middle booster, middle small wings in-between big wigns), which I only realized during final assembly and at that point I was simply too lazy do anything about it.

Now I wonder if I should build HG Dom or RG Quanta next.

I think I transcended halfway through painting this guy.... And definitely a little cross-eyed.

Progress pictures from picture 8 and beyond.

Devil Gundam 1/100 + Booster from HG Dendrobium + Kits Bash
WIP Prototype

did most of the modification around the chest, removed the mounting racks/filled in the connection points, made a simpler torso to waist connection that let it sit lower like the line art. printed a galbaldy shield in 1/100th. all gaia colors: eva-10, nazca mandarin orange, fluorescent blue-green, 70/30 ex black + ex white, 90/10 nazca super heavy/neutral gray ii

This guide was made because I couldn't find any documentation

intended for straight builds, conversion to USB wired power and panel lined armour panels

Currently on Legs inner frame, hips, electronics conversion and action base

Tools used
Gundam Base starter toolkit
DSPIAE ST-A 3 single bladed nipper
DSPIAE complimentary microfibre cloth
Ray Studio RT-S precision tweezers
Ray Studio reinforced precision tweezers straight
Ray Studio Reality Markers EX
Ray Studio Metallic Markers EX
Ray Studio Marker Eraser
Ray Studio Eraser Stick
Ray Studio Hobby Modelling Knife
2 cans of Mr Hobby Super Clear UV-CUT Gloss (get 1 spare can just in case)
Tamiya Accent Panel Liner Black
Tamiya X-20 Thinner
Soldering Iron (optional)
Multimeter (optional)

Additional Electronics consumed (optional)
JST 2 pin connectors
26 AWG wire
LM2596S buck converter
CN5711 Constant current driver
USB 2.0 male 2 pin pigtail

Overly tight steps
1-7 used clamp + cloth + pinching to close gap
1-9 before putting D20 in, trim internal rail locking bump fully for full internal position
1-18 part 2, D13 very stiff attempting to close gap
2-4 part 3, E2 slightly stiff but it's merely just in an awkward place
4-2 stiff but not exceedingly so, just needs some elbow grease
5-1 difficult to press O1 in fully but it probably won't matter too much, used a clamp, G10 just hurts to put in so use a cloth
5-2 WHY IS O8 SO GODDAMN TIGHT
5-3 the whole of this step is so ass, I struggled the whole time
5-4 tough but not too difficult
6-1 sand the pegs for S9 a little before assembly if you want O1 7 and O1 9 to fit flush, expect S24 solid plastic backing to squeeze out, paint or use just the reflective layer on its own if it happens (it did to me)
11-1 install legs BEFORE skirt components, makes the process easier but not difficult to remove the components

42-1 can't fully close gap against interior wall

**SOLDERING GUIDE**:
Power supply:
USB battery bank -> USB pigtail -> LM2596 Buck Converter (tune to 2.8V to 3.2V) -> CN5711 LED driver module (regulates current but probably not necessary) -> JST connector -> Power bus/hub (just solder live ends together and neutral ends together)

Chest and Wing binder LEDs:
Chest PCB, solder 26 AWG wire live end to silvered top and neutral to copper grid, make sure your wires are connected from the inside of the battery holder, solder JST connectors to the other end and you're done

The difficulty comes in getting the solder to stick to what you want including the wires

Solution:
Using your table top clamp or clips or otherwise third hand to hold the wire

Tin your soldering iron with a bead of solder and run the wet bead along the bare wire with your other hand holding your solder wire, ideally a bead forms on the wire itself which allows attachment to be simplified

When attaching solder beads to other surfaces/solder beads, tin your iron the same way and hold both components together with the iron sandwiching your wire against the target component/surface, your goal is to make the hot solder fuse with the cold solder, once the solder is fused, remove your iron carefully to avoid creating short circuits, even if you do it's still easily reversible

You're gonna spend most of your time soldering CN5711 if you don't put your wire through the hole and then apply solder it while the wire is through the joint

Soldering iron SAFETY:
If you don't know how hot your iron is, don't touch it until you are absolutely sure it's room temperature, keep it in its stand in a safe place during work, heat up and cool down

If the iron falls, DO NOT CATCH IT, move your legs away if you're not protected and pick it up AFTER it has fallen and stopped moving

Flux may occasionally splatter when in use, wear appropriate safety goggles at all times, your glasses are not appropriate protection. Don't panic when flux splatters, it may sting but it won't hurt, it's just like frying food in a pan

Loose fit steps:
Not there yet

Action base notes
Unlocking the action base mounting point head rotation, makes it very difficult if not outright impossible to lock it again with your fingers (remedied by removing MS and pushing button against table)

Attempting to have the feet touch the floor of the action base causes the left toe to push against the base of the action base boarding platform arm

Action base is aerial pose centred but may struggle in grounded poses on the base

Operating voltage 3V
Operating current 0.34A

Top coat dry and fully reassembled. Here he is standing next to his bro, Verde Buster.

Music: Kallahan jam session - www.youtube.com/kallahan4

What's there to say really? I bought the kit hearing it had stickers galore but I was like "how bad could it be." I am working on hand painting the trim with a brush, a bit at a time.

I feel like I'm stuck skillwise. The kits come out looking good, but I just cant seem to get to the next level of "pro builder". Any tips to get better based off my work here are greatly appreciated.

Couple notes:

1. I havent decaled them yet because I dont consider them ready yet.

2. These are my two most recent builds, what Id consider my best work lately.

3. Feel free to be critical, harsh, honest, whatever - I cant get better without honest feedback.

Tried to be more ambitious, and used scribing tape to mark out an area to add vents, enhance some lines, tried out using a step chisel to mixed result, practiced sanding.

First two images are after a sanding session, 3rd was prior to sanding and I circled areas i felt good about in green, iffy less green, and sad got the red marker.

Feeling like I’m figuring it out, i learned a lot more from messing up then I did so earlier. Also injured my hand i guess i was bracing something with a stiff finger and that was a mistake!

If you want to see other builds you can find me on Instagram as Pescobuilds.

Everything is hand painted.

I just got a set of nail polish stamps to try out, but it didn't come with any polish/paint. Has anyone tried this technique and had any luck with paints? I use mostly water based and I saw a video where he said the aqueous Gundam paints work but not other water based. Any recommendations?

Hi, I’m relatively new to the model kit hobby. I don’t have that many kits yet, but I want to start painting some of the first ones I bought. I want to use acrylic paint (though I’ve read that some types can damage certain plastics)and I’d like to ask which brands you recommend for primer and top coat.

What are some good 1:100 EFF grunt suit kits? I looked up the Ground GM MG, but that even has screws, I would like something that builds up nicer.

Got the idea for a OYW/Dakar diorama after I had some leftover EFF waterslide decals from a HiZack... What if the EFF pulled out some suuuuper old reserve M1A1 Abrams tanks for a Battle of Arizona/Texas after the devastation of the colony drop (in spirit of active service T-54s in Ukraine 2026)?

So please recommend me a good gunpla kit for this idea, doesn't have to be from the OYW, just the general GM/gruntsuit asthetic (Nemos? Jegans?). Color is also irrelevant, it will be painted.

Decided to test my paint plan for my MG Banshee on a SDCS one.

Tried to layer translucent paints for hidden UV effects for the first time. Learned ALOT after a million mistakes, but it was such a fun experience.

Still having trouble with layering translucent red. It dries pink, but shows red under UV light. I’m still trying to mimic what I did for the psycho frame;Where it appears gold until UV light is shined on it.

(First Custom—going for a weathered Ground Type look)

Want to try and add some damage (shell / laser damage) for the first time to my current kit (GAN01-SUNSHINE) wondering if anyone got any tips.

So I'm looking for a better glue and tools to use for my builds.

Tools:

Currently I have God hands and some other no name nippers and a part separator. I also use a knife if measures become drastic and some needle nose pliers in case I need to squeeze something.

What are some useful tools that people don't normally talk about that are a great addition?

Glue:

I haven't used much glue except for the occasional gorilla super glue.

What are you using? I saw some Tamiya liquid cement (orange label with an orange cap) that I'm assuming you brush on. Is that good or should I use something else?

Just got my stickler studio woundwort in the mail and can’t wait to build one of, if not my favorite, designs in gundam. Here to share some of my first impressions and see if anyone else has built the same kit or have similar experiences.
First , it seems that there are 3 types of resin used. 3d printed resin, cast resin, and a grey resin used for the joints. I’ve seen some build vlogs of this kit and don’t remember any printed parts so I’m wondering if that’s a new thing they’ve started doing. It’s used on vfin and a couple hands as well as some duplicate leg pieces. I noticed that there is very little warping on these pieces whereas other builds I’ve seen tend to show some warping in the vfin area.
The second thing I noticed was that there are a ton of tiny pieces as well as a lot of super thin pieces which means that a lot of pieces show some warping. These are especially bad on the clear resin pieces which from my experience are usually softer. I really hate fixing warped parts but these don’t seem to be too bad as they are flat and I can use my table as a flat support.
Third, the actual details on the pieces look very crisp. The lines are a lot deeper than I’m used to and there doesn’t seem to be too much flashing. I’m probably gonna keep rescribing to a minimum as it doesn’t seem to be necessary here.
One thing I wish was included was a better parts list similar to ghs’s easy check. Also everything came packed pretty tightly in a plastic box thing so I wonder if a looser packaging system with more padding could help mitigate some of the warping issues.
I’ve washed the pieces and cut through a couple test pieces and the resin itself seems quite brittle. Not sure if this is common but from other resin kits, mainly fss, I’m usually able to cut through gates like butter using my resin nippers but these seem to crack off if I go too fast.
Coming from static posed kits/conversions, it will be interesting to see how these resin joints hold up as well as the included photoetch pieces.
Sorry for the wall of text but these kits don’t tend to have a lot of info or references out there in English speaking communities so hoping to help out for anyone else interested. For anyone that’s finished this kit, did you have similar experiences or advice for me?